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Thread: Project Not Long Now S13

  1. #961
    Guest clive's Avatar
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    Im amazed you have continued to keep replacing the turbo gasket at £20 a time, I would of just welded it

    Just to add, spring washers aint worth a **** near that heat.

    locking nuts + genuine locking tabs FTW

    p.s.s, if its been blowing that often surely your manifold flange has warped?

  2. #962
    Flamethrower Pablo13's Avatar
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    My luck Id weld it on and get a crack in the turbo or something

    Didn't end up sticking the spring washers on as the bolt came up a bit shorter than Id like

    Flange was checked and looked ok, think its just sticking lots of boost though it for long periods it don't like. I'd love a french weapon mani or something with decent thickness though.
    bstmeetbllk

  3. #963
    Guest clive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pablo13 View Post
    My luck Id weld it on and get a crack in the turbo or something

    Didn't end up sticking the spring washers on as the bolt came up a bit shorter than Id like

    Flange was checked and looked ok, think its just sticking lots of boost though it for long periods it don't like. I'd love a french weapon mani or something with decent thickness though.
    remove exhaust housing from turbo before welding

    Hopefully the flexi will help from here. Does the exhaust hit the floor- at all?

  4. #964
    Flamethrower Pablo13's Avatar
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    Its got some light scrape marks on it but nothing out of the norm.
    bstmeetbllk

  5. #965
    Guest zeppelin101's Avatar
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    Are you monitoring EGTs at all pre-turbo?

  6. #966
    Guest gonzomagic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pablo13 View Post
    Managed to do the tubby gaskets yesterday, this is what what was in there


    To try and minimise bolts shearing in the future I got some titanium bolts for their higher melting point, so should endure glowing turbos for longer periods.


    All back together now and sounding better for it, so lets see how long it lasts
    Goes well too, especially with McDonalds in ya lap, lol

  7. #967
    Flamethrower Pablo13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zeppelin101 View Post
    Are you monitoring EGTs at all pre-turbo?
    bstmeetbllk

  8. #968
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    get some binx nuts on there dude, should stop coming loose then!

  9. #969
    Member alanjuggler's Avatar
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    I was about to say - binx nuts or stover type nuts should stop it happening. binx tend to destroy the bolt threads though, so if you're going to do a few assemblies, stovers are kinder to the threads.

    stovers + locking tabs were how I solved my gasket blowing issues.
    white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
    white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.

    current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.

  10. #970
    Flamethrower Pablo13's Avatar
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    Thanks for the pointers guys, but its not the nuts coming loose I had a problem with, two of the threaded studs/bolts had sheared in half, hence changing them for ti items.
    bstmeetbllk

  11. #971
    Flamethrower Pablo13's Avatar
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    This week was addressing stalling issues, so I knocked myself up one of those cross jobbies for the inlet to test with


    Not sure its a placebo or not but it has not stalled yet

    Was also having a snap and this was my fave so I'll just leave it here
    bstmeetbllk

  12. #972
    Guest eloise's Avatar
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    Have you got a pic of that inlet pipe in situ? Cheers

  13. #973
    Flamethrower Pablo13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eloise View Post
    Have you got a pic of that inlet pipe in situ? Cheers


    Gasket went again Think everyone was right from last time. When I took it off and checked it this time it had warped pretty badly. Don't think I paid it enough attention last time. At least everything was pretty clean and easy to remove this go round

    So with not much time I looked, but could not find anything apart from your average crappy manifolds so just plumped for another one Think the old one has been on the car about 5 years so its not done too bad I guess.



    Found some ceramic paint for it to try a DIY coating attempt on it


    Followed all the destructions, scuffed up the shiney manifold, primed painted and laquered, then baked in the oven at three different temps allowing it to cool each time and was left with this


    Quite pleased with my efforts I fitted it with locking tabs, bled up the car and had a gentle drive home to gradually bed everything in as nicely as possible but today its looking a bit faded already


    So the answer is yes, you should most likely send you manifolds off to get ceramic coated Was worth a shot and I did refit it in the pouring rain, so possibly the water drops did something to the finish? Who knows? It has some sort of ceramic coating on it and its not blowing yet.

    Long may it last
    Last edited by Pablo13; 26-08-2013 at 10:44.
    bstmeetbllk

  14. #974
    Guest eloise's Avatar
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    Cheers for that mate, I have my filter bolted to the Z32 and that connected to the turbo with about 6" of silicon joiner. It's a huge top mounted turbo, stalls every time I press the clutch. I reckon I need a few bends between the Z32 and turbo and one of the crosses. Just noticed that my manifold has cracked and whoever put it on missed two nuts of because of access with the cheapo crap, no room between flange and pipe bend. Oh happy days.

  15. #975
    Flamethrower Pablo13's Avatar
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    The fun and games continue!

    Managed to rip a new exit in my fluro lined, high temp, lardy dah, SFS hose which was bought to stop this exact thing



    Quick bodge to get me home was an insert




    Not the end Off on my way home I stopped to get some fuel and it would not fire back up again. Fuel pump fuse pulling but nothing, luckily DAL brought me some tools and I had an old set of plugs in the car, so ended up changing them out at the petrol station. Gave the attendant a little wave when I drove out and got one back in return

    So today I came home to everything needed to fix it again


    Think I will re use the insert in the new hose for a bit of extra strength, but ultimately I may extend my turbo outlet out of the hot zone a bit further to try and minimise this problem in the future.

    Thinking of this heat problem I seem to have around my turbo and the chance to save a bit more weight, I couldn't pass up a M-Sport bonnet going cheap with a vent in a low pressure zone so fingers crossed should help cooling too.




    Took a while just to get the thing to close properly and needs a bit of work in a few spots, bit of mesh, but I'm happy enough for the price
    bstmeetbllk

  16. #976
    Member alanjuggler's Avatar
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    since ally welding something on the turbo outlet'll probably take some time, I'd try to fabricate a thin steel heatshield for the samco.

    I had a similar problem on my CA where the pipework ran, ended up fiddling with a few possibilities but the most effective was a sheet that slid between runner 1/2 and the samco elbow. bolted up near the turret, from memory.
    white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
    white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.

    current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.

  17. #977
    Flamethrower Pablo13's Avatar
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    Decided to attack my rusty rear arches. Popped off the overs and DAL cut out the rust and tubbed them for me.




    After that I had a bit of rough running not idling right etc. Also when it was warm and you turned it off it would not always fire back up. Sometimes pulling the fuel pump would get it going, other times another set of plugs were needed to get it started again. So we gave the boost pipes a pressure test, found three clips that were leaking at 1 bar fixed or replaced those and got it up to just under 2 bar before it exploded apart at a pipe that didn't have a ledge, sorted that and the pipes were all good.

    It was running better after that but still would not fire back up when warm. So after going back to basics and checking for fuel and spark which we had we worked our way through and decided that we was getting too much fuel, so we swapped the ecu temp sensor and it started firing back up hot

    Sadly all is not perfect as I have noticed after only about 150 miles, my new manifold complete with locking tabs has gone again at the tubby to mani gasket. I'm going to have to sort some more bracing out for it in the near future!
    bstmeetbllk

  18. #978
    Home Counties Rep LED sandwich's Avatar
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    Looks like you have been busy dude, bummer on the new manifold, these failures are sadly while im running a stock one again. Keep up the good work dude, the car looks amazing.
    Quote Originally Posted by TheBigShow View Post
    Reach arounds are more my thing, I don't like the taste...

  19. #979
    Flamethrower Pablo13's Avatar
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    Cheers dude
    bstmeetbllk

  20. #980
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    joined forum last week this 1st project build i have read as i have gold "G" reg that may get some of this treatment lol very inspiring car is awsome well done

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