Relying on ecu fault codes?

[Daveyboy20]

Hi guys, the CA I've fitted in my Ford Capri is causing me some confusion :/

I'm not sure that my timing light is any good so i'm giving the car to my friend who MoTs my cars for me and getting him to use his exepensive timing gun on it. I'm hoping my problems are stemming mainly from timing..

It seems to be overfueling - fuely exhaust smell and dark smoke. Fouled plugs as well. It's now missing too but it's because the plugs are getting so fouled up. The idle isn't quite right either - stutters a bit after being revved and then might cut out. Hard to restart due to overfueling once it's cut out.

The thing is, I thought it could be ecu water temp sender but I've performed 5 ECU diagnostic checks and come back with 55 everytime - so do i ignore my ecu? could it still be the water temp sender or will I be wasting my money?

I thought perhaps boost leak bit I've cranked all my connectors right down and sprayed around the joints to listen for rev raises but nothing.

I have a greddy profec b spec 2 plumbed in which I've turned off for now but it still seems to display a fluctuating number of around 90? No idea if this is relevant just thought id mention it. It's a facelift engine (has lambda) and has a Horsham stage 2 chip with all the mods.

Hope someone can give me a clue as to my issues, it's ready for MoT if it'd run better! Cheers

[croustibat]

If it has a stage 2 chip, it should not use the lambda feedback.

I do not understand your boost controler reading though ... at idle it should be around -0.60 to -0.70 . But even if it is broken, it should not interfere in any way at idle, unless its hoses are cracked . Maybe you should check its hoses / remove it to test ?

What is the problem with the timing, didn't we discuss about this before ? As long as your engine is detected idleing, you can set the idle to 2200rpm and you still should have 15° . But as the CA uses coil plugs, you need to unplug the coil and fit an HT lead between the coil and the plug, and run your timing light from that lead.

do you still have the hot start solenoid ? If so bin it, it creates more problems than it solves. It could also be a dead FPR, or a leaking hose going from intake manifold to FPR. check these too.

[Jonny Wilkinson]

If the ECU returns a fault cod ethere is usually a problem but if it returns 55, it doesn't mean there is no problem.

Temp sensors aren't that expensive or hard to swap. If the engine has been standing for a while that could be it.

It does sound like there is an unconnected boost pipe though. People have had symptoms like you describe when a hose has popped off.

I doubt its the FPR as a duff FPR usually results in low fuel pressure not too high pressure but as Croustibat says its worth checking the pipework plenum to FPR (via HSS if fitted).

It could be that the injectors are sticking open...again if the engines been standing...Can you hear the injectors ticking on tickover ?

[Daveyboy20]

I know I've tried what we discussed but I dont think I trust my timing gun as it seems to be a bit slow on the uptake and inaccurate - its only a cheapie. Come to think if it - boost controller may say 0.90 ish but I haven't really investigated or even looked into it's manual yet as I wouldn't be able to adjust it until engines run in, its just something ive noticed has a reading when the engines running. So the stage two chip completely bypasses the lambda? Should I unplug it or just leave it in situ then?
Cheers mate

[Daveyboy20]

Just seen your post Jonny, the engine on the whole seems very quiet and come to think of it i can't remember if I can hear the injectors clicking which makes me think they may not be :/

[Jonny Wilkinson]

This problem with your boost controller sounds like you might have some electrical issues.

Maybe there are electrical problems causing the injectors to be held open

Best bet is to get it timed up correctly. Croustibat is absolutely right in saying that you need to put a spare lead between the No 1 coilpack and the plug to time it up.

Taking the signal off the wiring at the back simply doesn't work.

Did you see/hear the engine running correctly in the donor car or is the engine untested ?

[Rochester]

If it has a stage 2 chip, it should not use the lambda feedback.

I'm afraid that is wrong when referring to the Horsham stage 2 chip.

The Horsham chips come in both prefacelift non lambda and facelift lambda flavours. I am certainly very happily running a stage 2 facelift chip with lambda.

I have no idea if this is in some way affected by the profec b being used in conjunction with it, is that what you are referring to ?

If you have a problem then Jez's aftermarket service and assistance is without equal. Drop him an email.

[Jonny Wilkinson]

I'm afraid that is wrong when referring to the Horsham stage 2 chip.

The Horsham chips come in both prefacelift non lambda and facelift lambda flavours. I am certainly very happily running a stage 2 facelift chip with lambda.

I have no idea if this is in some way affected by the profec b being used in conjunction with it, is that what you are referring to ?

If you have a problem then Jez's aftermarket service and assistance is without equal. Drop him an email.

Are you sure ? I was fairly sure that HD chips were different for manual and auto but not lambda/non-lambda.

The ECU and its wiring is different but I don't think the chips are different.

http://www.h-dev.co.uk/product_info....1da3c4e70d8159

[Rochester]

I don't know if it is a different chip or whether the chip can do both but just doesn't worry if it doesn't get a lambda signal....

Mine* definitely takes receives and uses the lambda signal. Had a problem with it at first, woudn't enter closed loop at idle; sent it back to Jez and back by return all working beautifully and responding to lambda like a good 'un. Stage one also, worked / works with Lambda. Tho stage two gives slightly better fuel economy !


* Auto tho I don't think that affects the lambda question

[30psi]

With regard to the temp sensors, I wouldn't replace them (yet) but you can test them by using a multimeter to measure the resistance and then comparing this against the service manual.

[skyshack]

There are a lot of things that don't give codes. The diagnostic is very crude it was 2nd gen EFi. The codes are only for short or open circuit and not out of calibration.

If you get a code it's more likely you switched on with something unplugged or forgot to plug something back in than it being a real fault.

Non diagnostic items
Power source and ground.
Lambda - both heater and signal.
Fuel pump / air regulator.
Aux air control (AAC) on idle assy.
IAA control (FICD) on idle assy - air con idle.
Injectors
Pressure regulator controller (AKA Hot start solenoid)
Neutral and inhibit (auto) switches
Acceleration cut (air con switched off under high load)

You really do need to download the manual.

[skyshack]

I'm not sure that my timing light is any good so i'm giving the car to my friend who MoTs my cars for me and getting him to use his exepensive timing gun on it. I'm hoping my problems are stemming mainly from timing..

Timing has to be set with pickup on a short HT lead and plug cap between no1 coil - plug.

Or you can try to get a Nissan dealer service tool that plugs in at the ignition amp and has a loop that the pickup clips on.

The "loop" at the plug is a tacho pickup. It is known to give quite random timing results.

[frisbee]

One of the cams a tooth out?

[Jonny Wilkinson]

One of the cams a tooth out?

That could be a good call if its had a cambelt change or a rebuild.