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Thread: Project i want it clean and as rust free as poss!!

  1. #1
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Project i want it clean and as rust free as poss!!

    Hi all i purchased my s14 back in january i travelled almost 300 miles to collect it not knowing what condition it was in, but luckily it was in very good condition only down points were a couple of scabs on the rear arches and around the front ns turret top anyway its a 95 s14 104000 miles on the clock and an excellent and clean engine,but its an auto which i think is a bit but no biggy as i will eventually convert to manual! After a couple of months it developed the usual blowy tubby gaskets so whilst replacing i decided to go for a little more power and as it stands at the mo it has the following mods:-

    -japspeed tubular mani and turbo elbow
    -braided oil and water lines
    -manual boost controller
    -3" downpipe
    -3" JPerformance catback
    -3" decat
    -K&N induction kit
    -full uras bodykit

    and a few parts still to be fitted

    -hks turbo timer
    -greddy profec b spec

    anyways following a total loss accident last year in my 14a my insurance took a rather large hike this year so unfortunately cant afford the premium this year so i decided nows the time to pull my finger out and start to remove any corrosion etc from underneath so my progress so far is as follows i will also add that i am going to be using Petrols Comprehensive rebuild thread as inspiration hes a legend although i dont have the time to go to quite as extreme as he has!

    -rear bumper off
    -Diff cooler removed
    -rear shocks off
    -lower arms hubs and carriers off
    -rear discs and calipers off
    -and just starting to remove stonechip and seam sealer to reveal whats lurking underneath

    Ive also purchased some Deox-c, Deox gel, Dynax and a few wire brushes from Bilt Hamber thanks to Petrols thread and im currently cleaning up the hubs and hub carriers prob going to get refurbed calipers from brakeparts uk as i think mine were getting sticky anyway.
    will be uploading pics as soon as i get them onto my computer!

  2. #2
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    nuts and bolts?

    i have left all the hub/carrier bolts and caliper bolts in a deox c tank, ive left it to do its work for 48 hrs and removed them today and cleaned them up and theyve come out looking almost new, my question is can i spray them with any sprays that i can put on them to keep them from rusting again ie- paint or laquer i was hoping to do it before replacing so will need to be durable. Dont really have the time to go down the plating route so any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. thanks

  3. #3
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    I would spray some primer on the bolts. This will stop them rusting for the time being. When you put them back on, the primer will be damaged but it’s no big deal – just brush paint the heads with some hammerite smooth or better still, 2K paint.

    To be honest, I would concentrate on removing rust from the shell rather than nuts and bolts. Have a look at my S13 thread

    http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=209248

    This might answer some of your questions
    Pete


    SXOC Member Number : 317

  4. #4
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    cheers petrol im doing the shell as well im doing that at home and the smaller bits in my breaks at work etc, ive read all your s14a project thread and will start on the s13 thread tonight if its anything like the 14a one its a hell of alot of reading thanks for the advice

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    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    little update!

    ive been working on the smaller parts this past week as the weather has been total crap here ive started to de-rust clean and paint the lower arms, Hub carriers and hubs ive taken a few pics to show my progress!

    parts immersed in deox-c im using quite a strong mix as the parts are quite heavily rusted



    hub wirebrushed ready for deox gel ive masked it up to prevent crap getting in unwanted places. Anyone know if this is adequate?



    Although on the tub it says to apply at around 1-2mm thick after reading Petrols thread i see that you get better results caking it on!



    ive also put it in a plastic bag to prevent it evaporating



    please remember any comments suggestions are more than welcome!

  6. #6
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    little update i managed to drop the sub-frame and diff last night will post some pics up shortly ive spent 3 hours wirebrushing, grinding and deox-ing the subframe but am having trouble getting in all the tight corners so if anyone has any tips it would be appreciated! also when buying new rear camber and toe arms ie from apex are they supplied with bolts etc as ive snapped two from the toe arms i believe they have got washers with offset holes and a groove in the bolt otherwise does anyone know a decent supplier to get them from? thanks

  7. #7
    Guest NickS13's Avatar
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    you wont need to use the original bolts that account for adjustment as you arms will be the adjustables now, just pop to a fixings shop and get some high tensile strength nuts and bolts.

  8. #8
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    ok cool thanks for the input are high-tensile bolts expensive?

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