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Thread: those that have changed steering anti-vibration joint

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    Guest clarity's Avatar
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    those that have changed steering anti-vibration joint

    How did you get it off? Me and a mate have been trying everything to get the bolts off but with no luck did you remove the whole thing? I need to replace the rubber bit in the middle of the joint.

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    It's easiest (but a bit long winded) to take the bottom section of the column off the rack, though I think I just slid that joint as far towards the rack as it would go, but mines a poly one rather than stainless steel, so it was a bit more amenable.

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    To undo the bolts stick a spanner on the nut, wedged up against something solid and turn the steering wheel. Make sure you turn it the right way.

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    Oh, there aren't any bolts to remove as such, they're part of the yokes.

    If that's what you mean.

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    undo the bottom 2 nuts on the join, remove the 2 pinch bolts on the UJ at the rack end of the column, slide the UJ up the column and the lower half will come out

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    and if you want more precise steering, dont put the rubber one back, put aluminium one.

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    Guest clarity's Avatar
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    Ive got a stainless one to put on, off Danny

    gonna have another crack at it later

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    Quote Originally Posted by Asentaja
    and if you want more precise steering, dont put the rubber one back, put aluminium one.
    stainless one is better and wont go white with corrosion

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    Guest clarity's Avatar
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    Job Done, Cheers

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    how hard is it? I've really got to do mine, it's completely fecked

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    Guest clarity's Avatar
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    Its not that hard a job really i think there are 7 bolts in total that need to be removed, the hardest part is getting the bolts undone on the universal joint itself, but if you put a spanner on the top nut and turn the steering wheel, they do come undone, these were so tight i had an air ratchet on them at full whack and still nothing. Another pain in the ass is getting the splined lower section of the shaft out of its clamp, luckily i did mine at a mates garage so could give it the hammer treatment. If the car is just on axle stands this could prove a real pain in the ass to get out and then back in once everything is sorted.

    The car at first didunt seem that different to drive until i got some speed up the steering is now super sensitive/responsive.

    Hope this helps

  12. #12
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    I did it with 5 bolts: 4 on the joint itself (2 for the top half, 2 for the bottom half) and one that holds the splined bit in the universal joint at the bottom.

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    Guest clarity's Avatar
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    We couldunt get that part out so ended up knocking the joint below it out

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    To get the splined section out of the UJ I wedged part of the jack handle (the bit with the spike) in the split in the uj and hammered it till it opened up a little

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    whats the syptoms (sp?) of this then?

    vibration through the steering wheel at about 55mph-60mph

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    That's probably badly balanced wheels. When the bush is knackered there's more play in the steering, it's a common MOT fail on these. The steel one gets rid of all the play and sharpens the steering up.

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    Mine has just failed an MOT on this joint
    Do I need to replace complete uj or just the bit in the middle? In the manual I presume this is the joint that is called "lower joint"?

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    Here's what I did when I changed mine (from a previous thread)

    Ideally put the car on ramps at the front cos you need to keep the wheels straight so when you put it back together the steering wheel is still straight.
    Undo one pair of the four nuts holding the coupling together. I found the top ones easier to get at as you can work from above. You might want to move the fuel filter out of the way though. The nuts will be difficult to undo because the ends of the threads on the studs are peigned over to stop the nuts coming off.
    Take out the two bolts in the uj connecting the steering shaft to the rack. Get a large screwdriver/chisel spread the clamps on the uj slightly so you can move it. If you've loosened it enough the uj should slide up the steering shaft and off the rack. You should now have the successfully removed steering shaft and flexible coupling in your hand.
    Straighten out the metal plates that go either side of the disc and re-assemble the joint with the new disc. You may need to replace the nuts and/or clean up the ends of the studs because of the peigning operation I mentioned earlier. I used some Loctite threadlock on the nuts to stop them coming loose.
    Make sure the steering wheel is straight and slide the uj back down the shaft and onto the rack. Replace the bolts in the uj clamps and away you go

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hallsy
    Mine has just failed an MOT on this joint
    Do I need to replace complete uj or just the bit in the middle? In the manual I presume this is the joint that is called "lower joint"?
    Nissan will only sell you a complete new shaft (150ish IIRC), but you can buy replacement disc from people on here.

  20. #20
    Guest clarity's Avatar
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    PM Sideways Danny hes who I got mine off and was spot on

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