Good luck. Took me 2.5 days
Good luck. Took me 2.5 days
another tip to help getting the splines lined up is to have the prop inserted into the gearbox whilst you try to put the box back in. Select a gear and as toy try to push the box in, have someone rotate the prop until it engages.
I just changed my clutch on my own and was stuck with the bell housing an inch-or-so from the engine and it wouldn't go any further.
But when I stuck in the prop, put a long screwdriver through it to stop it turning, put it in gear, and then turned the crank flywheel it seemed to just pull itself all together
That was the hardest bit, and I managed to get the box out and in without rotating it. Jacking up the front of the engine made all the difference
And I'd recommend tying the clutch release bearing arm to the bolts with zip-ties so it doesn't get knocked and push the release bearing too far out, like mine did meaning I had to remove the gearbox again
Just wanted to say thanks to this thread, fitted a new clutch (crappy blue print) in 6 hours, and took me 3 weeks to kill it. Just fitted an act extreme in 3 hours!!
Its a dead easy job once you have done it the once. I had no problem with space getting the box back on like allot of people have mentioned, must have been lucky.
[Dig]
Excellent idea, helped me get mine on fairly easily
Since I was on my own I got the box supported by a trolley jack at the front and a seatbelt supporting it from the gearstick hole, then lay down underneath the box so I could push on the bell housing with my feet and twisted the prop as i wiggled the gearbox on.
[/dig]
Is it OK to clean the surface of my new flywheel with white spirit?
It will be fine, anything like meths, thinners or brake cleaner will do to remove the protective oil coating
Personally wouldnt use white spirit. Might be ok but leaves a residue unlike meths or brake cleaner.
Sorry to bump and old thread, but to raise the engine up. Did you all jack on the crank pully?
Used this and the Nissan guide to change flywheel, clutch and cover plate for the first time last week and all went well until I drove the car when finished and had a vibration at 2,500 rpm in each gear.
This vibration went away after removing the gearbox again and fitting a new pilot bush/spigot bearing, the original pilot bush/spigot bearing looked fine and its hard to beleive what a difference this little insignificant looking tube has made to the car.
Can you please ammend the how to thread by including the advice to replace the pilot bush/spigot bearing.
ive given up on mine
I've just changed my clutch using this guide and it's not too hard a job really. It took me about 6 hours in total which isnt bad for my first time I reckon.
With jacking the front of the engine to refit the box, I only had one jack so I jammed a block of wood between the rad top and the rocker cover.
Also I aligned the clutch plate by eye and the box slid straight on to the engine first time. I was probably lucky there :-)
Lastly due to space I would advise removing the gearstick for refitting if not already removed. This also makes it easier to fill the box with oil at the end.
EDIT: Only thing I didnt manage was swapping in the new release bearing. I got it pressed onto the carrier by a garage round the corner.
Last edited by DangerJim; 05-06-2009 at 16:54.
Using this thread, and this thread, i will be changing my clutch tomorrow, along with the release bearing as got a brand new nissan one so would be rude not to.
Will be 2 of us doing it so hopefully will get on ok, and will have got rid of the slipping clutch (fingers crossed )
UPDATE
Have just got home after changing my clutch, started it at about 11:30ish and had a break fro lunch for around an hour. Got finished at around 6ish so am pretty happy with the timescale being that it was my first time .
Gearbox feels a lot more direct and the clutch is a bit firmer but nothing really to worry about. Hardest parts would have been a couple of the bolts that needed a bit of encouragement to come loose betweeen the 'box and engine and taking off/replacing the gearbox - git just wouldnt come off .
Last edited by schumi84; 06-06-2009 at 19:05.
could someone post a list of tools needed for a clutch and flywheel change please? Me and a mate want to give it a go
Thanks
Circlip pliers to remove gearstick (push inwards type)
Socket set, mostly 14 and 17's used i think
Some kind of breaker bar unless your a heeman, i put a long pole over the ratchet
Axle stands, i jacked the car up and sat it ontop of spare wheels
For the top bolts i used a ratchet type spanner (17) with a flexy head and kinda hooked on a 2nd spanner for extra leverage (got at from top with a few bits moved)
edit: flywheel has star type ish thingy bolts, a 2nd socket set i had had loads of little bits in the socket and that griped fine
And a massusse
Last edited by immy21; 23-07-2009 at 00:00.
Sorry to be a pain but should i change / uprate the clutch lines to braided ones while everything is off. Anything else i should do while it's off? release bearing etc??
Thanks again
Last edited by strawberryS14a; 26-07-2009 at 09:53.
release bearing and pilot/spigot bush should be changed. Clutch lines can be done anytime as they are outside the box. To get the pilot bush out stuff wet tissue or some grease and then wack a snug fit pole in the hole and it starts to come out.
I had a nightmare time trying to get the box back on today, getting the spline past the pressure plate springs, rotated the box upside down to clear the tunnel. I rotated the fly with a screw driver while pushing the box in and it sliped into/past clutch and pilot bush easy enough.
Last edited by immy21; 02-08-2009 at 23:46.