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Thread: Oil Advice And Recommendations Here

  1. #101
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    Super interesting all of this!
    Another point mr. Oilman might have some knowledge about:

    When changing the oilfilter I always fill the oilfilter. Is this actually important? It doesnt seem to be done and actually I hate doing this as there's always a little comming out when fitting it back. My view is just that this will ensure a constant flow off oil after first startup after changing the filter.

    Is this correct or does it hardly make a difference?

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by oliver
    Super interesting all of this!
    Another point mr. Oilman might have some knowledge about:

    When changing the oilfilter I always fill the oilfilter. Is this actually important? It doesnt seem to be done and actually I hate doing this as there's always a little comming out when fitting it back. My view is just that this will ensure a constant flow off oil after first startup after changing the filter.

    Is this correct or does it hardly make a difference?
    Oliver,

    Good point and interesting question. Im not too sure on this one off the top of my head. Leave it with me and I will talk to the techy boys this week and get back to you.

    Cheers

    Guy
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  3. #103
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    Your wisdom is sought due to me being more intent on maintaining more control over what goes into my pride and joy

    Make Nissan
    Model 200sx
    Year 2000
    Engine Size 2.0
    Engine Type SR20DET
    Any Mods Air Filter, Decat, Zorst, Boost @ 1 Bar, FMIC, walbro fuel pump
    Type of driving Mainly fast road, plus some shorter (5 mile ish trips), do tend to rag it quite a bit though

    The oil you currently use No idea as its normally serviced by Nissan so whatever filth they have been filling it with

    Thankyou, will drop you an email for price list too
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  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrahamB
    Your wisdom is sought due to me being more intent on maintaining more control over what goes into my pride and joy

    Make Nissan
    Model 200sx
    Year 2000
    Engine Size 2.0
    Engine Type SR20DET
    Any Mods Air Filter, Decat, Zorst, Boost @ 1 Bar, FMIC, walbro fuel pump
    Type of driving Mainly fast road, plus some shorter (5 mile ish trips), do tend to rag it quite a bit though

    The oil you currently use No idea as its normally serviced by Nissan so whatever filth they have been filling it with
    The oil we have been recomending for most of the 200SX's is a 5w-40 or 10w-50 depending on preference or application. Most of these cars have been modified like yours and require a shear stable oil, like an ester. We have the Silkolene Pro S products that cover this application.

    As you often do shortish trips a 5w-40 might be the better option to provide you with better cold start protection.

    Look forward to your e-mail.

    Cheers

    Guy.
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  5. #105
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    Hi Oilman

    I use Royal Purple Racing 41 engine oil and their Max Gear oils in my diff and gearbox.

    What are you opinions on these oils, I think they are ester based.

    I only change my engine oil every 12,000 miles on their recommendation and when I do change it looks virutally as clean as when it went in.

    I've also found, or think, that it has kept my oil temps down when the car is being used on the track.

    Thanks,

    Kirky.

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by kirkster
    Hi Oilman

    I use Royal Purple Racing 41 engine oil and their Max Gear oils in my diff and gearbox.

    What are you opinions on these oils, I think they are ester based.

    I only change my engine oil every 12,000 miles on their recommendation and when I do change it looks virutally as clean as when it went in.

    I've also found, or think, that it has kept my oil temps down when the car is being used on the track.

    Thanks,

    Kirky.
    Kirky,

    As far as I am aware the Royal Purple is an ester based oil, we dont have much technical information on Royal Purple so cant judge it fairly, however being a US made oil you might like to consider this.

    It may be best that all fans of U.S. oils close their ears or look away at this point, you may not like what you read!

    Some basics first.

    A good oil must be quite low in viscosity even in the cold, so that it gets around the engine in a fraction of a second on start-up. On the other hand, it must also protect engine components (piston rings for example) at temperatures up to 300 deg C without evaporating or carbonising, and maintain oil pressure.

    Unmodified thin oils simply can't manage this balancing act. The answer is to use a mixture of thin oil and temperature sensitive polymer, so as the thin oil gets even thinner with increasing temperatures as the engine warms up, the polymer expands and fights back, keeping the viscosity at a reasonable level to hold oil pressure and film thickness on the bearings.

    All oils have a viscosity index which is the number indicating that rate of change in viscosity of an oil within a given temperature range. Higher numbers indicate a low change, lower numbers indicate a relatively large change. The higher the number the better. This is one major property of an oil that keeps your bearings happy. These numbers can only be compared within a viscosity range (10w-40 vs 10w-40) but here it the important thing...............
    They do not give an indication of how well the oil resists thermal breakdown! (The oil film tearing or shearing)
    This is all down to a very important additive called a Viscosity Index improver and it is critical that this is shear stable.
    VI improvers like all other things in life vary in quality and this is down to cost and availability.

    In other words, an oil can look great on paper and make impressive claims but, unless all the components are of high quality it will fail to perform under the most arduous conditions.

    I asked John Rowland the Silkolene/Fuchs Chief R&D Chemist for 40 years to give me his opinion on U.S. oils for another car club and below was his reply:

    Quote:

    Guy,

    The main problem with the majority of American Oils is that they have “low grade" Viscosity improvers in them. Good ones are just not available in the states due to the fact that they are just not required for the majority of American engines.

    The consequence of this is, although the oils look good on paper with high VI indexes etc the low grade inprovers mean that they have a tendency to "shear down" causing a lack of oil pressure , after a couple of thousand miles hard use in a stressed engine. .

    For example, the oil you are using may be a 10w-40 when first put in but could be operating as a 10W/20 after a few thousand miles! It’s the use that sorts them out.

    JR

    Unquote:

    I was intrigued by Johns answer and wanted to know how he knew it was the case in the U.S. that good quality VI improvers were not available. His reply was as follows:

    Quote:

    We have found it is impossible to source shear stable VI improvers
    in the U.S.A. even for ready money!

    Unquote:

    Bear in mind here that Fuchs/Silkolene is the largest independent Lube Oil Manufacturer in the World and has facilities in the U.S.

    Mis-information abounds in the oil world and looking behind the marketing hype and claims is impossible unless of course you are a chemist and able to look deep into the oils make-up which neither you nor I can do!

    Hope you find this interesting.

    Cheers

    Guy.
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  7. #107
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  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by kirkster
    Cheers for that.

    We have had a look their, but they dont provide the tech data needed for a comparison.

    The only real way to tell is to have a lab report done on it. Send me a sample and I will have it analysed.

    Cheers

    Guy.
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  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by oilman
    The only real way to tell is to have a lab report done on it. Send me a sample and I will have it analysed
    Will do. How much oil do you need, and I take it you'll need it taken when its warm right?

    Kirky.

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by kirkster
    Will do. How much oil do you need, and I take it you'll need it taken when its warm right?

    Kirky.
    Excellent,

    We are testing Redline as well, the results should be interesting.

    All I need is around a spice jar full and it does not have to be warm, you can take it straight form the container or sump.

    Send to: Opie Oils
    The Fuel Depot
    Cardrew Way
    Cardrew Industrial Estate
    Redruth
    Cornwall
    TR15 1SS

    Look forward to recieving it.

    Cheers

    Guy.
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  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by oilman
    All I need is around a spice jar full and it does not have to be warm, you can take it straight form the container or sump.
    Bit confused now, do you want used oil or fresh. Don't mind either way what I send to you mate.

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by kirkster
    Bit confused now, do you want used oil or fresh. Don't mind either way what I send to you mate.
    Sorry, fresh would better.

    Cheers

    Guy.
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  13. #113
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    Recieved my order

    next day delivery too

    lets hope Silkolene is good stuff, it can't be anyworse than the tar like crap thats in it atm.

    cheers, Tom.

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Escy
    next day delivery too

    lets hope Silkolene is good stuff, it can't be anyworse than the tar like crap thats in it atm.

    cheers, Tom.
    Silkolene is the good stuff

    Guy.
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  15. #115
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    Good point and interesting question. Im not too sure on this one off the top of my head. Leave it with me and I will talk to the techy boys this week and get back to you.

    Cheers

    Guy[/QUOTE]

    Looking forward to your reply Oilman!

  16. #116
    Guest Ivanski's Avatar
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    I'd be interested in how Royal Purple makes out too, as a there seems to be quite a split between those that swear by it / at it.

    The only info I've ever seen on RP was in Bell's "Forced Induction Performance Tuning" where in an engine test against other oils on a dyno it came out near the top, with only Mobil 0W-40 making better power.

    However he goes on to say "Royal Purple doesn not state a viscosity rating, but lab testing shows it to be in the 0W-20 to 0W-30 range." which worries me a little

    Cheers

  17. #117
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    How can you sell an oil without a viscosity rating?

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ivanski
    "Royal Purple doesn not state a viscosity rating
    Quote Originally Posted by Royal Purple
    1.
    Follow manufacturers recommendations for viscosity.
    Available in SAE 30, 40, 50, 5W20, 5W30, 10W30, 10W40, 15W40 and 20W50
    .
    http://www.royalpurple.com/techa/whichoil.html


  19. #119
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    Simon I also want to ask, in Classic cars some companies have special oils for these older design engines, does this mean you could not use synthetic oils in these cars?

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkH
    Simon I also want to ask, in Classic cars some companies have special oils for these older design engines, does this mean you could not use synthetic oils in these cars?
    Mark,

    Pre 1950's when the technology was not around to make a multigrade, let alone a synthetic, they used monograde oils. Instead of a 20w-40 they just had a straight 40. Because this was all that was available at the time the built the engine to suit, large oil ways etc. Post 1950's thay started to develop multigrades, as these oils developed, the engines developed with them until present day.

    Saying that some classic car owners have used semi or fully synthetic without problems. However its not common.

    Hope this clarifies.

    Cheers

    Simon.
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