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Thinking about going with a brian crower 2.3 stroker kit in the near future and i’m just working out how long it would take to fit. I would be doing it on my drive so ideally would like to leave the block in place, can it be done with regards to removing the sump because of the crossmember? Then i imagine it’s just remove the head, gearbox and crank pulley. Measure the cylinders and pistons, work out what compression ratio i want then order the kit and rebuild?
Your block would need machining, unfortunately its not as easy as fit crank, pistons and rods.
Definitely an engine out job.
Have you got any reputable machine shops near you? Sure they'd be happy to offer advice
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Even if what pointz said wasn't right, you want to remove everything from the engine except the block. It would be easier to remove the thing as a whole :wack:
The standard SR bore is 86mm and the B.Crower 2.3 stroker is 89mm. That's a hefty rebore and will need a machine shop that has a torque plate (£400 on its own if they need to buy one). There's also plenty of other work such as bearing clearances that the machine shop will need to set too.
I've gone as far as changing rods and pistons on my driveway, but this is way, way out of that realm!
I think you'll need to sleeve the block to go as far as 89mm bore.Quote:
Originally Posted by hooky
Cheers guys, don’t really have the tools, equipment or space to take the engine out right now. Will just stick to a head build for the foreseeable.
I think that's the point you're missing. With what you'd plan to take off, you'd basically remove everything anyway. It would be far, far, far easier to remove the engine built up entirely, then strip the bits you need.
But if you're now just doing the head, golden. What are you hoping to do? Because you can run 360/70/80 and sometimes more without having to work the head at all.
you could drop the engine out the bottom of the car.
I’m currently running 350bhp, should crack 400 as it is with a retune and turbo’s good for 550. I’m planning on fitting tomei 270/270 cams, brian crower springs and retainers, tomei solid lifters and rocker arm stoppers. I can do that with the head still on if i pressurise the cylinders? Then after a while go with a stroker kit, if i’ve gotta pull the engine then i will get the head ported too. Should make some good power once it’s all done lol.
You were just talking about removing the cylinder head not being a problem, I'm not following, you're all over the place.
If you take the head off I’d get it skimmed and get the valves checked along with a new valve stem seals fitted. New cams require new rocker arms don’t forget. The procams come in two types for solid and hydraulic lifters so make sure you get the correct ones.
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Originally Posted by tonksie93
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Originally Posted by piman2k
I don't think the OP means remove the head and rebuild it, I think this is just a case of fitting cams/springs/etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriscooke
A stroker build is a really big job, especially if you're going over 87mm bore pistons.
I’d be wanting to add head studs at that power level at least.Quote:
Originally Posted by Actual_Ben_Taylor
Ah, understand. When he said head build I automatically assumed it would be a proper job, not just bolt out bolt in stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by Actual_Ben_Taylor
I’m after a fair bit more power so i was thinking of a stroker kit and some work on the head. I was just wondering if a stroker kit could be fitted with minimal tools but if the engine needs to come out so bearing clearances can be checked etc it’s best i leave it till i’ve got a bit more space and tools. So yeah in the meantime i’m going to just change the cams and springs etc. I’ve read you don’t need new rocker arms you just need them machining down a bit? Going to do a leak down test first just to make sure everything's all good before i start removing the head parts, can new valve seals be fitted while the valve is still in place?
Cheers for the recommendation on some headstuds.