Wiring short! How the f*ck to find it..
Now I'm surprised at myself for having to ask this question, because I've made custom wiring looms and I've worked in and around various electrical systems for years as a tech - but this really silly thing has me a bit goosed.
No point telling you the car, as it's the only one in the UK and it's closest relative has a completely different electrical system :wack:
This also causes me problems when it comes to getting replacement parts but that's another story.
So here's my issue:
Battery, new and tested okay on another vehicle.
Put onto this vehicle - also tested okay before connection.
Start and idle car for 10 minutes, no problems.
Blip the throttle (engaging the alternator) then smoke everywhere, from fuse box, from alternator and from the air-intake feed duct (f*ck knows where it was coming from). Lights dimmed (alternator fried) but engine kept running off battery.
So today I get down and dirty with standard tests.
Firstly I check my positive lead terminal - it has continuity with the chassis.. boo!
I open the fuse boxes and remove the positive by-lead to test the thick positive-starter motor - no continuity (yay)
I remove the out-put wire TO the alternator from the fusebox - continuity with chassis.
I put the by-lead back on and remove every fuse in the box - continuity even with all fuses removed except for the 100A
So how and where in the f*ck do I find where the short is coming from :wack:
At present as soon as the negative terminal hits the negative post (with the pos. already in) I get big sparks and the alternator tries to go on fire.
Annoyingly I can't just buy replacement alternators, and until I get to the root of the issue it would be a futile waste of money, so any help would be appreciated.