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I've done some googleing. So far I've found info on using some sort of adaptor which would also feed an oil cooler.
I'm not scared to tap into the block or anything, I just want the engine I built to be closely watched. I poured all my savings into the engine and if it failed I cant afford to fix it :( sniffle
I got a braided line made up to relocate the oil pressure switch and added a to piece which allows me to fit a gauge sensor. The benefit is it removes engine vibrations and improves the life of the sensor.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y15...9-11154614.jpg
I bought an adaptor to try and fit it where the stock switch is. Found it impossible to get in there with everything in situ! May be possible with the inlet Mani removed/engine out
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Can get one made at a hydraulic place for cheaper than that.
You don't need an adaptor at all? It's easy to fit it in the stock location.
Then the oil pressure light won't work and engine vibrations will kill the sensor. For the sake of a few quid it's better to relocate it and run both sensors imo
By the time the stock oil pressure light comes on it's too late anyway. And as for engine vibrations killing senders I doubt it doesn't affect every other sender on the engine does it.Quote:
Originally Posted by big_mac
Although for a few quid extra if that's the case it's each to there own. Certainly not a big job either way.
I agree... Light comes on after you've lost pressure. Not as you start to loose pressure. I removed the factory sender on my SR and put an aftermarket that came with the gauge in its place. 12 years later and that sender is still working.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean-B
I've got mine in a sandwich plate.The sensor has been bashed about for about 5 years, is currently held together with solder and tape, and still works fine. Relocating the lot is unnecessary imo
It's entirely up to you what you do, the majority comment on how inaccurate the oil and water temperature gauges are as standard, perhaps it's a sign that the sensor tolerances are a bit different from a gauge, after all its designed to give an accurate reading rather than a ballpark.
The oil pressure light is a good indication of what is going on, am engine can idle with it on without any real damage, the damage occurs under load or high revs so to say the standard switch is useless is inaccurate. You can if desired fit a higher pressure switch but for me the best thing to protect your engine is a warning light
Here is a scenario for ya...Quote:
Originally Posted by big_mac
Your oil pump has failed. You have 0psi oil pressure & your oil pressure light is on. But you can let the engine idle away without any "real' damage? :eek:
Again. The stock, OEM, factory oil pressure sender does not work as a "warning". Warning would = Advance notice you are "ABOUT" to loose pressure. It tells you "AFTER" you lost pressure.
You want an actual warning go buying a Defi setup http://www.defi-shop.com/products/en...r/summary_dlm/ And actually set warnings @ desired readings.