Not sure then, it should undo to the left of that red circle, off the lever, and pass out though that circled bit. :confused:
Printable View
Not sure then, it should undo to the left of that red circle, off the lever, and pass out though that circled bit. :confused:
Handbrake and front cable is one piece
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/66.jpg
Welded
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/67.jpg
And rivited
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/68.jpg
Sussed it
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/69.jpg
Fuel tank supported for removal
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/70.jpg
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/71.jpg
Lowered the jack and out it came
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/72.jpg
Behind the fuel tank :eek:
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/73.jpg
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/74.jpg
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/76.jpg
This is the worst of the rust on the N/S
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/75.jpg
O/S
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/77.jpg
N/S
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/78.jpg
N/S chassis leg under the boot cleaned up. Bit of surface rust on the seam
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/79.jpg
it looks easy, doesnt it :wack:
GTT's don't run with the oil cooler either & they run more power than 200's standard :)
Pete, Gimme a shout if you need anything galvanised ;)
The start of another excellent thread Petrol and lynxy :thumbs:
Please, if you don't mind put pics up of every single step so the not so technical minded can learn.
i dunno what everyones problem with rust is - its just natures way of improving the power to weight ratio :wack:
love the 14 fuel tank....no reason to change that ever:no:
:thumbs: :notworthy
OK will do
Yeah but think of the gains when its all shotblasted :D The trouble is, it will end up with about 2 gallons of paint and stonechip on it :wack:
I dread to think what Nissan would want for a new tank :eek:
Parts cleaning -engine degreaser, a washing up bowl and a paintbrush :D
Engine degreaser also removes tar and waxoyl.
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/80.jpg
Diff cooler cover cleaned up
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/81.jpg
Fuel filler neck bracket needs some attention
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/82.jpg
Started degreasing the shell, again using engine degreaser. Best way is to work it in with a brush for a few minutes and wipe it off with a rag.
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/83.jpg
One side cleaned up
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/84.jpg
The other side to do, need to lower the brake and fuel lines first. The bolts are soaking in WD40.
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/85.jpg
After swilling in engine degreaser under the car all morning, a courier arrived at lunchtime, great I thought, time to get some bits shotblated and "blinged" up
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/86.jpg
There is a bit more to this plating jobbie than meets the eye :nod: There are quite a few processes to go through, the temps and PH of the solutions have to be right as does the current which depends on the surface area of the component to be plated :eek:
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/87.jpg
I hope their techie support is good :D
Does anyone know how to remove these brake pipe clips without breaking them? They really need to come out but knowing Nissan, they will want an arm and a leg for them :(
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/88.jpg
Lxnxy has been polishing up the exhaust :D
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/89.jpg
The fork was a bit too thick but gave me the idea of using a plastic card :thumbs:
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/90.jpg
You can see in this pic where the prongs are
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/91.jpg
Degreased the callipers and used 3 layers of masking tape to prevent sand getting behind the seals
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/93.jpg
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/94.jpg
Low pressure shotblast @ 60 psi, again to reduce the chance of sand in the seals, took ages though
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/96.jpg
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/97.jpg
Then brushed any loose sand off with a clean paintbrush and sprayed 1 thin coat of U-Pol acid etch primer. This needs to be left at least overnight before applying a topcoat.
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/98.jpg
That will be £164.30 :eek:
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p...Rebuild/99.jpg
Hi Petrol, is the upol acid etch sprayed from a rattle can or from a gun?
Good work by the way :thumbs:
It’s a rattle can IKRAM but it’s worth noting that if you intend to drive your car hard or track it, you would be better off using a high temp calliper paint. I painted the callipers on the S13 with 1 coat of U-Pol acid etch followed by 3 coats of 2 Pack car gloss using a spray gun. They haven’t blistered or discoloured but it’s not surprising the way I drive :ghey: :D
Worth noting that I used high temp caliper paint on my disks hubs / calipers a few weeks ago and one track day caused the paint to blister, crack and fall off...
The calipers are now a sickly yellow instead of gold too!!!
Considering getting them powder coated!