Printable View
pushing along with my build and need advice on 2k paint, im used to spraying Cellulose Paint bodyshop 30 years ago:wack:, i have the compressors to do the job, air fed mask and new'ish devilbiss gravity fed spray guns, 1.2mm [finnish coat] and 2mm[high build primer] nozzles. need advice on which high build primer to use and its limitations, also best methods of spraying 2k:)
also dealing with filler shrinkage.
bodywork advice is the worst as everyone does it different.
i always use the U-POL primer that comes in a green and grey tin and the fast hardener that comes in a red tin. I highly doubt its the best on the market but it goes on well and sands nice and is cheap. I always add a 'splash' of thinners so it goes on smoother as I find it can be quite thick but I only have 1.2 tip gun. wait for it to dry then dust over a coat of black/red rattle can so you can see the low spots when sanding. watch how it goes on, you don't want it to dry and you don't want it too thick as that can cause it to crack when drying or too orange peely.
I did stray away to some beige stuff that my local paint supplier recommended but it dried like concrete and was a bitch to sand.
if you have any old scrap panels or something like that then practice painting that. when I went to college they just filled the spray guns up with water and got us kids to 'paint' panels to get the feel for it.
my favourite filler is U-pol fantastic because its actually is fantastic.
as long as your filler isn't 3" thick or been out in the rain then you are normally ok. I tend to put a light coat of primer over the filler then wait for it to 'flash off' then put a slightly bigger coat on then wait a bit then blast the whole panel with 2 coats. guess it depends on how good your filler work is. but you don't want too much primer on the panel. I only have a small compressor so a bit of wait between coats lets it catch up and lets the thinners evaporate.
I would normally get the filler work in 180 grit then give it a quick blast over with 240 just by hand, then prime, then guide coat then knock the top off the primer with 240 grit then 320/400 then a quick 800 wet and dry then paint. im guessing you have an electric DA sander? or a meaty compressor for an air powered one?
ive always just used the cheap paints like pro-spray or jawel own brand.
if you have fibre glass wings/quarter then I would sand them flat with a long sanding block before priming. i see so many old nissans with wavey GRP panels fitted on.
thanks for the help, i have various sanding blocks, and an electric DA, details on the correct grit is very helpful, im using U-pol filler and im looking to start spraying in the next couple of weeks,
what grit for what stage is where people differ.
I tend to do most my filler work in 60 grit then when im sure its my last skim of filler use 80 grit, then go over with 180 to remove the 80 scratches. then tickle it with a small hand block that takes DA pads with a 240 grit. if your not too good at filler then popping a bit of coloured spray paint over the top before you sand it will help you to see low spots. changing the colour paint between layers can also help.
then red scotch the rest of the area you intend to prime. wipe off any dust with your sleeve mask and prime.
once your primer is dry lightly dust over some black spray paint or what ever dregs you have in some old cans (just enough to change the surface colour) rattle cans seem to ball up sand paper so you don't want to paint the thing. this will allow you to see your low spots/ any 60 grit scratches etc...(you can actually get 'guide coat' which is a black dust you rub on the panel with a sponge. but it is more fun putting it on ear defenders/weld mask headbands etc..)
say you do a repair in the centre of a panel that you want to prime over but not prime the whole panel.if you prime to the edges you have masked then you will get a big step of primer you will have to try to feather out. a good tip (assuming you are using 2" masking tape) is to fold about 1/4" of the edge back on its self to form a none sticky pocket. this allows some primer to go underneath thus feathering out your edge. tear off your length of tape holding it each end then pinch the ends over to where you want then folded, then run it over your thigh to fold the rest, you should be able to do a meter at a time with some practice.
proper 2" tape is expensive so do your rubbishy masking with 1" from the poundshop. I tend to mask my edges all nice with the 2" then use the 1" to join all my news paper sheets together.
primer is like an easier version of paint so it serves as good practice for when you have to apply your chosen colour.
you can knock a lot of the primer off with the 240 grit, will save you some time/discs. don't buy cheap discs, mirka gold or equivalent.
Some great advice here :thumbs:
i was going ford stealth grey but found its a base and Clear Lacquer lay up, really wanted a solid colour as its going to be used on track, easier to repair solid. so i need another colour, any ideas
If you are using 2k paint, you can convert base coat to solid colour just by using a different additive in it. We used to do it all the time for painting white vans.
im moving more toward ford frozen white. but nice to know.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike41288
Mines frozen white.......
https://www.facebook.com/800bhp/phot...type=3&theater
Nice. And jawel paints do a paint kit cheaply.Quote:
Originally Posted by 800bhp
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I painted my old s15 using that jawel frozen white kit, came out pretty decent considering.
Got all my stuff from JawelQuote:
Originally Posted by ex-ctr