Brake line setup

Hi,

My cars brakes are utter dog shite at the minute and I'm pretty sure Iv messed up the lines...

Iv Deffo not fitted a brake bia's valve (because I'm an idiot).... and i fitted a hydro handbrake but now decided I don't want it in there.

Can someone just confirm if iv done these lines correctly as I'm pretty sure I haven't... this is the diagram.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c1370b6e47.jpg

I need to fit a bias valve just unsure where to fit it, I could use the same two lines that go to the hydro brake but i new to make sure the fronts are setup correctly?

Any help I'd really appreciate


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It has only got one outlet on the master cylinder as well not two


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So currently you have 25% going to each caliper with no biasing?

That's more than likely the issue. Lack of power to the front calipers.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sean-B

So currently you have 25% going to each caliper with no biasing?

That's more than likely the issue. Lack of power to the front calipers.

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Yeah basically... do the front lines look correct because I can just remove the hydro brake and put my bias valve there instead?


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I'm not 100% sure how they work but I'd presume a bias valve has one IN and two OUT. So BMC to bias, bias to front and bias to rear then t piece from those two outlets to the calipers

This is the one iv got and it's just a one IN one OUT, so aslong as my lines like the way they are I should be okay then?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...89fa7db7e7.jpg


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You'd probably install that one just before the Hydro then?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by R3K1355

You'd probably install that one just before the Hydro then?

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I want to remove the hydro completely so that will be okay then using those two lines and putting the BIAS in its place?


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By the sounds of it you have an abs master cylinder but no abs? How many outputs do you have from the master cylinder?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shikari chaos

By the sounds of it you have an abs master cylinder but no abs? Hence the single output from MC.

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It's a wilwood master cylinder, was for the servo delete which Chase Bays sell

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...39d430344f.jpg


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by dan_evans

I want to remove the hydro completely so that will be okay then using those two lines and putting the BIAS in its place?

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I believe that is correct yes.
What percentage proportioning does it allow?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by R3K1355

I believe that is correct yes.
What percentage proportioning does it allow?

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I don't know mate to be honest it was just a cheap one off eBay, I'm looking at the Wilwood version from Demon Tweeks which ranges from 100 to 1000psi?

Well that explains the single output.
I'm just thinking about buying this myself so glad this has popped up.
This should clear things up:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7787c2f44e.jpg

replacing your hydro with the bias valve will work to decrease the rear braking effort. the rest of your diagram seems fine.

what size master cylinder have you fitted? maybe its too small and not moving enough fluid.

have you a garage with an MOT brake testing roller you can use for a bit of testing?

I would take an initial reading of all 4 brakes, then clamp the rear flexi hoses then re-test the fronts, then the same with the rears.

no brake servo will give you wooden brakes, how come you didn't relocate to inside the cabin?

Just ordered a Wilwood brake BIAS valve so il fit that In replacement.

I originally thought no servo would just mean a stiffer brake pedal, but Iv now ordered a Renault clio servo (small & compact) and il fit that if needs be.. going to test it with a bias valve first and see what happens to the pedal.

Failing that il move the servo in the cabin and I know it will then be better.

Was also looking at a line lock, would that be fitted before or after the BIAS valve? I m presuming before