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I’m battling a water leak under my intake on the s14 and would like to make it a bit more simple.
Can the Oem oil filter cooler be bypassed by looping the two take offs together and running the hose that comes out of the cooler directly to the block?
Can the throttle body take offs be blocked too?
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Loop these two together
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...241da812f9.jpg
Swap the hose I’m pointing to to where the coolant is leaking on the head :wack:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f983bdd817.jpg
When I took my oil cooler/warmer out I looped it one of the pipes is long enough to bypass it
The throttle body one id say could be looped but you will loose the fast idle function as I think it’s a wax stat in the throttle body so as coolant warms up the idle drops personaly is leave it in
I find an easy way to test for coolant leaks is to get a Shrader valve from a bike tube cut the excess rubber off it and use a bike pump with a gauge and connect it to the coolant return on the rad then bypass the little disk on the rad cap with a small bit of a cable tie
You can then pump it up just past you rad cap pressure then look around for leaks
Sound complicated but it takes a couple of minutes to rig up and pressurise it and it shows you any little leaks and your working with a stone cold engine so no chance of getting burned with steam and you can check your progress ect
Did you swipe the pipes like in the pics above with the one going to the head?
The leak was large but couldn't see where it was coming from even using a mirror and on a ramp etc. Was either the gasket to the head or one of the rats nest of hoses under the plenum.
I was going for a remote oil filter/cooler setup so the whole thing was coming out but looping them on the actual cooler won’t do anything as there is no flow I’m sure I looped it between the 2 metal distribution pipes
Pressurising it will show you almost all the leaks and you can pull the upper intake manifold off and get a better look while it’s still pressurised
Ahh yes that would of helped. I took the top of the inlet off but obviously it was no longer under pressure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriscooke
When i reinstalled my engine i blanked both off. The S15 comes without an oil cooler and uses a bung in the block, so i figured it was okay. The thread for that is 3/8 NPT, then i just used a silicon cap to block the other end.
Throttle body wise i blanked that too, but in hindsight it wasn't the best idea as i had a few idle issues at first. But after adjusting the idle it seems fine now.
Is it ok to run it like this? Oil cooler is looped and the hose goes straight back to the block?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...feee056602.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c13f837109.jpg
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I can't see a problem with that, other than the lack of oil cooling.
That plate that the oil cooler lines are looping on - what does it attach to? Are you using it for anything?
Would it be a better plan to just remove it and plug the hole?
ive removed the heated throttle body with no real side effects. the wax state for the fast idle still kind of works as the engine gets hot. but ive just set it manually using the adjuster screw.
your last pic is how I would 'loop out' the oil cooler, as it still allows correct coolant flow.
Can you remember where the throttle body lines route? I’ve drawn a blank and can only see one. I need a break I think.
When you say 'removed' it, did you cap the lines or loop them?Quote:
Originally Posted by green_rs13
One is visible in the above pictures, and the other connection is on the bottom half of the inlet manifold.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriscooke
think I just looped them, I did think about welding over the holes in the pipes to block them but couldn't be arsed.Quote:
Originally Posted by james2404
a lot of my pipes are different under the inlet manifold as Ive got no heater etc.. so ive simplified it all as best as I could.
I vaguely remember that the rear of the inlet manifold is heated as well.
you can remove the heat exchanger completely and put an oil cooler sandwich plate straight ontop of the housing,
The back of the inlet manifold is cooled where the EGR connection is :thumbs:
hahaha, correct,id forgot about that contraption. although that usually gets binned when fitting aftermarket exhaust manifolds.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brookie
if the leak isn't obvious then I would do what was suggested above and remove the upper inlet manifold and pressurise the system using something bodged into one of the hoses.
Think the water leak is fixed, now I have a vac leak I think