The splines on the 350z gearbox are further back so wont engage but the input shaft is not that far off s14, so you still need an s15 clutch.
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The splines on the 350z gearbox are further back so wont engage but the input shaft is not that far off s14, so you still need an s15 clutch.
2004 and 2005 are fine, some people just complain they are noisy boxes and people who can't shift sometimes ruin the syncros making 1st and 5th gear (don't quote me) notchy to get into.
I have a 2003 JDM 350z and love the gearbox, it was noisy when I bought it but a good oil change and some molyslip made it quiet.
My new spare 350z gearbox is from a 2004, feels just as manly,rifle bolt action as my other one.
Pay the marked up money for a cd009 if you want but IMO its not worth it.
Just to update my slow efforts to fit the 350Z box.
I have now fitted the sr20det bent cam with protuner adapter plate and gktech shifter bracket, this requires the hole for the shifter to be cut 1-2 inches back and the shifter will sit 1-2inches back and slightly off centre. I have used japspeed engine mounts and had to trim some of the ridges off the top of the bellhousing and bash in the tunnel slightly. The protuner gearbox mount didn't fit and was too short to reach the front two main chassis mount bolts so I had to modify the oem rubber gearbox bush by drilling two new holes further back and grind some fins off the bottom of the gearbox to allow the mount to sit further forward and use all 4 main chassis bolts. A bit pis# poor imo when their website doesn't mention anything about this and I was expecting a relatively hassle free install.
I may try to remove one of the metal washers on the japspeed engine mounts to lower the engine/gearbox as I will struggle to get an electrical connector on the reverse (could be wrong) driver side sensor on the gearbox as its tight against the tunnel.
GKtech are also trying to send me a new shifter as the black plastic push down section is a bit too tight inside the grey metal spring housing and is stopping the shifter from popping back up after being pressed down for the reverse lock out.
I would say their customer service has been good as I did explain I could probably get it to work and they still offered to try get me a replacement part.
Also the distance between the gearbox and the 350z diff that I installed is going to be around 4cm too short to use the 350z propshaft but I will stick it up and take a picture hopefully on thursday.
Getting there mate, how much lower does it actually hang under the car, will ground clearance be an issue?
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yes orc twin carbon (over kill but was cheap), ground clearance isn't an issue (I think) I will take a photo to show next week when i am off work.
Nice! Thought so as I shaved 12mm off and went with S14 clutch assembly and the GKtech shifter only just catches the hole but puts the shifter itself pretty much exactly in the stock location.
Ground clearance wise it does hang lower as it's a big ol' lump but still not as low as the exhaust hangs. I haven't twatted it on any speed bumps yet, to my knowledge.
CD box with a 3.9 auto diff is epic! It really does shift now.
Slowly getting there.https://scontent.flhr2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...15&oe=604440F6
Hopefully should be enough movement but wont find out until the engine is started, may try and move the gearbox output shaft with clutch engaged and disengaged to see what its like.
https://scontent.flhr2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ef&oe=6044D288
Made my own ptfe braided line from s14 clutch master to 350z slave, had the pedal travel all the way out so may need to wind it in a bit so I dont put strain on the slave/master.
https://scontent.flhr2-2.fna.fbcdn.n...6a&oe=60440A87
14.5-15cm needing removed from oem prop length. (probably 15cm to allow for movement)
Tested the cltuch by wedging the pedel down and sticking the propshaft in the output of the gearbox, it turns freely when in gear. Then let the pedel back up and tried turning- unable to turn = working clutch.
Shortening the 350z carbon propshaft, messy job.
https://scontent.flba1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...cc&oe=606EA446
https://scontent.flba1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...67&oe=606D74EF
Dont recommend it but here is the finished product. Wont be doing that again. Just hope the runnout is ok as I have no way to balance it now I guess. (I will check runout on car tomorrow.)
https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/127220...nts/#replyForm
https://www.350z-uk.com/uploads/mont...852d57a53c.jpg
That looked like an absolute mission!
Yup, the sizes you are given for u joints isn't great and the customer help from a few shops was poor, so the one I ordered fitted perfectly but the groove for the internal snap rings was a couple of mm shallow which was a ball ach to grind off the couplers as a brand new flap disc on a grinder just doesnt quite reach lol, dremel and hours later the job was done, but still not 100% happy as there is a small potential for the snap rings to get pushed outdue to them being not at 90* to the face of the ear lob hole.
I would have preferred not to use a hammer to hit the coupler into the carbon sleeve but my press is not long enough and when mounted sideways with the bottom support removed the legs started to bend in on themselves due to the pressure on the seatbelt sling.
I would also have preferred to use a bit of resin inside the coupler but it took that long 4 hours over two days of hammering to get the thing in it would have set too fast.