It's a cigar lighter size hole in the panel, and you can get USB units for that size (or put a cigar lighter socket in). Plenty available on Amazon, search for "USB Car Charger Socket"Quote:
Originally Posted by Asht_200
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It's a cigar lighter size hole in the panel, and you can get USB units for that size (or put a cigar lighter socket in). Plenty available on Amazon, search for "USB Car Charger Socket"Quote:
Originally Posted by Asht_200
Interesting. There could be a good place on the Z to put USB sockets [emoji6]Quote:
Originally Posted by stoofer
Ideal for charging IPads etc [emoji6]
Where LHD have the Start Button
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Would you not knock the cups during gear changes?Quote:
Originally Posted by stoofer
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You deleted the cubby? :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by s13spooner
Have a think about what you'd want there and get back to me. The hard work is done for this part :thumbs:
That's another reason to not use the ashtray. :thumbs:Quote:
Originally Posted by Asht_200
The armrest on the S13 is surprisingly far back, and it's also deep, the cups don't stick out very far (in fact, standard "coke" cans are hard to get out)
It's far more ergonomic for driving than the cupholder in the 370z, which is in the way of everything!
When I bought the car it was just a massive hole of nothing [emoji23], yeah I will do [emoji5]Quote:
Originally Posted by stoofer
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Well, I have 2 spare cubbies (the type with the door on a spring). One was butchered "way back when" so I could put an original iPod in there and run a cable out the back, the other is unmolested.Quote:
Originally Posted by s13spooner
I also have a test print of just the DIN surround to get rid of the gap from a single-DIN head unit. Basically a rectangle with some depth to sandwich in place.
PM me if you want any combo of those.
Can still go more custom if you want, too ;)
When I bought the car, the "hole" was an AVCR and Blitz performance monitor, no radio... velcro-ed to a bit of foam... with lollipop sticks stuck to the back of the foam for support... I think my take is an upgrade
True, but nothing you can't do with a hole saw, right? ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Asht_200
Have a better Idea. Buy the entire switch assembly and use that [emoji6]Quote:
Originally Posted by stoofer
You get the surround then [emoji4]
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Perfect fit :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Asht_200
Attachment 85020
stoof, how much post print work do you find the parts need? I've seem some printers that seem to need a lot of work afterwards given how rough they are but yours seem much better - is that a printer thing or is it a file / specs choice?
That's a good question (I generally do ZERO post print work), many factors! I'll generalize a bit:Quote:
Originally Posted by alanjuggler
Printer Type:
- Resin
Pros:
Amazing quality parts - print your own tabletop miniatures.
Cons:
Current resin printers have a small print volume.
Currently a lot more expensive to print in resin.
Messy.
Cant't print composite materials.
Many resins are still hazardous substances and hard to dispose of waste (although this is improving)
Post-processing (curing at a minimum) is required- FDM (like mine)
Pros:
Printers can be had for cheap
Filament is cheap
Can have large print volumes
Some can print multiple materials into the same part (like mine can)
Cons:
Large prints take ages!
Quality of prints is a compromise of time/quality. For best quality, you want to print slowly and use very low layer heights, you can multiply print times into several days sometimes to get quality.
Depending on what you print with, post-processing can be hard.
The whole thing is a mild fire hazard, you have moving parts at 200+ C and a failed sensor can turn many of the cheapest printers into a molten mess.
For mine specifically (a Prusa i3 Mk3S with MMU2S):
I have multi-material capability. "ovehangs" on FDM usually print badly - I can use a support material that dissolves in water to have great overhangs.
I can print multiple colours, transparencies, etc all in one object.
It's a relatively expensive (for hobbyist) printer; it prints great.
If I want to print curves in Z axis (up), it supports variable layer heights (reduces the "staircase" effect without needing to do the whole print at the lowest layer height)
The print bed on mine is textured, so if I print a large, flat, object (like the front of my fascia), it comes out with a slight pattern on it that largely hides the fact that it's a printed part.
They've recently added "elephants foot compensation" to it, so the only "unavoidable" problem I had is now fixed.
And finally:
Experience ;-) The printer (especially with the multi-material) is a hobby in itself: I know how to tune it to get good results.
I don't need to use brims nor rafts, I have the printer set up right, so there's nothing to cut away.
So: I print for quality and do zero post-processing.
Forgot about this old one... S13 speaker grille, just add mesh. :smash::smash:
Attachment 85021
One more iteration on each of these parts and it's hopefully "done"
New tray is to stop cups and contents of remaining storage area from conflicting. Would also be sturdy enough to be a cupholder on its own, keeping the original lid and swinging it up when needed. That would have been a lot easier...
Attachment 85023
Attachment 85022
Attachment 85024
I don’t know...
I still found the old ash tray was an ideal size for a can of red bull
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Our use case is 2 large coffees :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Asht_200