View Full Version : Replacing brake Fluid
Right, Matt_S, and SteveCarter100 have sorted me out with all the gubbins required for the 280mm conversion, but me being really thick is a bit unsure about how to go about the fluid bit.
How do you drain all the old fluid out of the system? Is it just remove all the lines and let it drain, or do you pump the pedal?
Also, what order do you bleed everything up, front first, rear first, ABS first?
Cheers for any advice......
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Stu
DIY T3, FMIC, but need more power!!
Paul_S13
25-06-2001, 22:01
The bleed sequence is as follows
left rear
right rear
left front
right front
front side ABS actuator
rear side ABS actuator
I pumped the pedal until the brake fluid reservoir is almost empty, then top up with the new fluid, and continue doing that until the new fluid comes out of the caliper bleed screw.
Hope it helps
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Black S13
Off to Power Engineering on the 28th
risky business
25-06-2001, 22:05
Hi,
The sequence is;
left rear, right rear, right front, left front, front side air bleeder on ABS actuator, rear side air bleeder on ABS actuator.
To change the fluid, pump loads through each of the above using the foot pedal as you proceed through the sequence. Obviously make sure the reservoir stays topped up.
I was happy with the results on mine, and found 1 bottle of Halfords 5.1 sufficient.
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Black S13
Uprated Actuator
ND Stage 1 Eprom
Janspeed D-Cat Pipe
risky business
25-06-2001, 22:23
StuyMac
Whilst writing my reply Paul nipped in there with the answer. His info regarding the bleed sequence is probably more accurate than mine as I got my info from the (American)Chilton workshop manual. This doesn't cover the 200SX but it does cover the American equivalent the 240SX which bar the engine, is fairly similar.
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Black S13
Uprated Actuator
ND Stage 1 Eprom
Janspeed D-Cat Pipe
Dave_the_B
25-06-2001, 22:35
StuyMac,
I did the 280mm conversion about a month ago and found that the calipers are actually the same it is just the bit that fixes on to the strut(the torque member) that is different.You don't have to disconnect your original calipers only change the torque member
Hope this helps
Dave
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Grey S13
T28@16psi
Evo 6 IC
Cheers for the advice fellas.
Unfortunatly though the drivers side caliper is sticking so the calipers are going to get changed anyway. You can really tell that the caliper is sticking, its that bad, cant get the top end out of the car, and when you lift off, you can feel the brakes taking effect without touching the pedal http://300zx.co.uk/200sx/ubb/frown.gif
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Stu
DIY T3, FMIC, but need more power!!
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