View Full Version : CA Powahhh!
Few bit's i picked up since the timing belt snapped, engine is going in next week and waiting on the rest of the parts to come from the states. Hopefully it will be ready for the lakes :)
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture942.jpg
GT2871R
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture945.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture944.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture946.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture948.jpg
Thick Core Aluminium Race Radiator
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture947.jpg
Wiseco Piston Kit
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture903.jpg
ARP head stud kit
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture900.jpg
Tomie Adjustable Cam Gears
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture898.jpg
MHG
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture873.jpg
mmmmmmm they all look lovely
can i have them ?
playtime
30-03-2008, 10:02
im not greedy, can i just have that radiator? :wack:
oh yeah get cracking i want to hear this yoke roar:notworthy was talking to dan i'll probably have my car up and running for the rally of the lakes all going well
mmmmmmm they all look lovely
can i have them ?
im not greedy, can i just have that radiator? :wack:
No bother, i can wait another 12 months :smash:
was talking to dan i'll probably have my car up and running for the rally of the lakes all going well
Nice one, you sleeping in hotel 86 :rolleyes:
hotel 86 i doubt it i'll see might have to get a b&b don't know for definite if i will be down just remembered i will have a new arrival before then:thumbs:
CathyR33
30-03-2008, 14:24
Nice mods there, fair play! :thumbs:
AP Engineering Power FC Pro:
The Power FC Pro Spec.CPU has been designed for drag racing use. These units have two additional functions over the regular units: 1. Ignition cut used for rpm limiter - Regular Power FCs cut fuel feed when the preset revolution limit is reached. At high rpm, there is the possibility of knocking when the fuel is cut in high-powered cars. The Power FC Pro CPUs cut ignition at the rpm limit to prevent the knocking that could potentially destroy the engine. 2. 0km/h rpm limiter setting - Allows for the setting for an initial rpm limiter that is active whilst the car is not in motion. This allows for mainting a rpm level for consistent launches.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture941.jpg
The purple wire that's coming out of the pfc has being hardwired to the board. This is the power wire for the boost kit.
Boost Control Kit - MAP Sensor
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture939.jpg
Boost Control Kit - Solenoid
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture940.jpg
When it's back together and running it's off to Stiv :Plug: to get map doctored :wack:
I like the idea if you leave your car somewhere (panel beaters) you can set the rev limit to 3000rpm and remove the hand controller. .This prevents the workshop from taking your car out for a fang on the roads and driving it like they've stolen it as the PowerFC will cut the power at the 3000rpm rev limit.
Maybe could be used as theft protection aswell if you set the rev limit to 900rpm :confused: A car thief is not going to get anywhere fast ;)
don't know for definite if i will be down just remembered i will have a new arrival before then:thumbs:
lol, you forgot!!! :smash::smash::smash:
lol, you forgot!!! :smash::smash::smash:
not so much forgot just remembered how soon the rally was and how soon the new arrival will be too
jason has been a busy boy delivering all your stuff next time you c him tell him you will smash him in his DC5 just 2 c the look on his face.........
johnnyhillen
31-03-2008, 02:20
Maybe could be used as theft protection aswell if you set the rev limit to 900rpm :confused: A car thief is not going to get anywhere fast ;)
oh, i like, i've set my limiter to 3000 for someone to look at the car before but never thought of that, i think i'll try that next time i park somewhere dodgy
Col200sx
31-03-2008, 07:52
Nice collection you're gathering there twincam:thumbs: Fingers crossed now that you get her up and going and back on the road
I like the idea if you leave your car somewhere (panel beaters) you can set the rev limit to 3000rpm and remove the hand controller. .This prevents the workshop from taking your car out for a fang on the roads and driving it like they've stolen it as the PowerFC will cut the power at the 3000rpm rev limit.
Maybe could be used as theft protection aswell if you set the rev limit to 900rpm :confused: A car thief is not going to get anywhere fast ;)
Very good idea. Piece of mind when you leave the car with another party:nod:
jason has been a busy boy delivering all your stuff next time you c him tell him you will smash him in his DC5 just 2 c the look on his face.........
lol, yeah he's a sound lad. He told me he knew a few lads on the sxoc incl a JP but must be a different JP then the one on here :confused:
He said he was a honda head alright :whip:
Few more bits:
HKS adjustable actuator for the 2871 to replace the standard T28 actuator as it's pretty useless by all acounts. It has a spring rated at just 5psi. Probably would have trouble holding boost and spike alot with the standard actuator. I'll set this to 1bar and let the boost kit do the rest.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture950.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture953.jpg
Coolant Hoses
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture959.jpg
The project base: A low milage, standard 200sx. Bodywork is mint, it has a solid clean shell and has a good strong unwelded chasis. Turrets and sills are are also rust free :nod:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture277.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture278.jpg
Bootlid with no rust :eek:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture289.jpg
Kouki rear lights :cool:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture423.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture389.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture388.jpg
Sprayed up the kouki centre panel and, top bumper trim and a vented headlight cover
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture857.jpg
Fitz1979
02-04-2008, 11:26
Looking cool. Must've felt like Christmas when all that arrived
YEEEEEEEE HAAAAAAAA
Got it running tonight and it sounds sweet :D
:sxoc::sxoc::sxoc::sxoc:
Well done mate:thumbs: Just got mine running again an hour ago, feels good getting things working again:nod:
Well done mate:thumbs: Just got mine running again an hour ago, feels good getting things working again:nod:
Thanks mate :thumbs:
Especially after five months lying idle and another nine months before that :wack:
Happy days there was no knocks, ticks or bangs when i got it started first :D:D:D
Just have to wait for AFM and injectors before getting it mapped. Then take the box off again when the clutch ever arrives from the states 47 days later :annoyed:
Col200sx
03-04-2008, 21:14
:sxoc::thumbs: Good stuff dude, great to hear she's up and running:nod:
Will we get to see her before the Lakes? Even a wee meet in Galway:nod:
Christ lad 12 months is a long time to wait, i feel your pain. I blew my gear box in december got new gear set in mid jan got the car back on the 28th and 3 hours later she was on her roof :cry:, collecting new shell monday:clap:, hope all go's well with the rebuild, there be a nice shine from the engine bay when shes sorted lol
:sxoc::thumbs: Good stuff dude, great to hear she's up and running:nod:
Will we get to see her before the Lakes? Even a wee meet in Galway:nod:
Cheers
It wont be on the road for another while, few other bits to tidy up and get of fuelling and mapping sorted. Then i have to sort out tax and test. Hear there getting strict on NCT, few boys up in court for not having any.
Christ lad 12 months is a long time to wait, i feel your pain. I blew my gear box in december got new gear set in mid jan got the car back on the 28th and 3 hours later she was on her roof :cry:, collecting new shell monday:clap:, hope all go's well with the rebuild, there be a nice shine from the engine bay when shes sorted lol
Was that an os-giken gear set you got to replace your nackered one? $$$$
TWINCAM
that it was, replaced the one that broke, turned out the one that was in it was old and out of production so upgraded so that shows they are well worth the money, i got a bit to excited after getting the car back after so long and paided the price with my head lol
Twincam, good work:thumbs:
sorry my PM's are not sending well/bit crazy, but i replied to you about some kit/spares you were looking for:) keep up the good work
Excellent job you're doing there Twincam! :thumbs: Finally we get to see something other than a Pug! :ghey: ;) Any pics of the finished product?? :sxoc:
Excellent job you're doing there Twincam! :thumbs: Finally we get to see something other than a Pug! :ghey: ;) Any pics of the finished product?? :sxoc:
:whip: Coming from a lad that owned a skoda :ghey:;)
The finished product is still hiding behind this sign
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/workinprogress.jpg
Some of the work carried out an the underside of the car. Cleaned it down with a drill, wire brush and engine degreaser before spraying on primer to all the bare metal. Then gave it a few coats of stonechip.
Floorpan
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture412.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture417.jpg
Chasis rail above exhaust
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture805.jpg
Front suspension mount
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture788.jpg
Rear suspension mount
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture793.jpg
Twincam, good work:thumbs:
sorry my PM's are not sending well/bit crazy, but i replied to you about some kit/spares you were looking for:) keep up the good work
Thanks :)
Drop me a pm when you get the info :thumbs:
Facelift LSD for everyday use and an open diff to weld up for drift use
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture819.jpg
Cleaned it up and gave it a lick of paint
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture831.jpg
Removed the old paint off the cam covers using nitro mors, paint scrapper and some wet and dry sandpaper.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture439.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture840.jpg
Parts waiting on in the post:
ACT heavy duty clutch
660 injectors
Z32 AFM
KA24D throttle body
Tomei Poncams
Z32 Apexi Filter
Woohoo! Good job! :clap:
:whip: Coming from a lad that owned a skoda :ghey:;)
Touché my friend! :D
Trying to find a high flow elbow to lines up with the downpipe from the manifold. :annoyed:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture864.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture891.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture395-1.jpg
Bits to be removed to stick in the other yoke
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/3-1.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture932.jpg
Springs, wheels, exhaust, skirts and kouki's removed. They really make some difference on the car below :nod:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture926.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture201.jpg
How long does it usually take parts to arrive from RHD once they have being posted? The last place the parts were tracked was japland three days ago but nothing since.....
How do you know when the parts arrive in Ireland, does the tracking get updated on their website or do check the tracking number on the An Post website?
yeeaahh, parts arrived from RHD today. Happy with their service, only took 6 days arrive. Just waiting on AFM and then i can get it mapped. Hopefully be ready before the lakes :sxoc:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture961.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture965.jpg
Clear indicators
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture970.jpg
Before:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture971.jpg
After:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture975.jpg
Getting Ready to fit FMIC and Thick Core Aluminium Race Radiator
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture392.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture390.jpg
The famous crap design, restricted crankcase breather pipe, the first thing i will be putting in the bin. Its one of the most important breathers in the engine and this getting blocked is one of the reasons that causes big end failure.
A theory is that at high rpms oil gets stuck in the head and so the be's become starved of oil because blocked breathers creating high crankcase pressures and so the oil cant drain back down quick enough.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture880.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture879.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture878.jpg
Col200sx
16-04-2008, 07:27
Coming along nicely dude:clap:
Skirts have a nice shiney look to them after the polish.
Must pop down for a look one of the evenings:nod:
Joematose
16-04-2008, 08:20
Good work :thumbs:
so maybe it does exist !!!
Lookin forward to seeing the finished result :nod:
Must pop down for a look one of the evenings:nod:
I'll send you a txt later, i really do have a phone and a 200sx :wack:
Good work :thumbs:
so maybe it does exist !!!
Lookin forward to seeing the finished result :nod:
I'll try get some pics up later -off to take pics of neighbours 200sx- ;)
twincam, what was the make of the stuff you used for sealing the underneath of the car?
I just got some of this stuff to do mine next week but Im not sure whether to use it or not as it always stays a bit tacky so that it doesn't crack.
http://i9.ebayimg.com/05/i/000/e3/05/8bd8_1.JPG
twincam, what was the make of the stuff you used for sealing the underneath of the car?
Underseal is really a thing of the past, manufacturers now use a xylene based stonechip which is more durable than the old underseal. Stonechip can also be overpainted with both celly based paints and the more modern 2k based paints
Whilst stonechip can be brushed on, better results can be achieved by spraying. For an orange peel finish which is great for under the arches, apply it using a stonechip gun at 40 to 70 psi. For a “flat” finish the stonechip can be thinned with celly thinners, about 10% This is great for sill repairs and can hide a multitude of sins when the gloss coat is applied.
You can also buy it in aerosol cans. Your local motor factors should have it. It's cheap to buy, about 6/8 cans should do the full underside of the car. Quiet simple to do but a dirty bitch of a job.
1) First job is to clean the whole area with wire brush, white spirit and rags. This ensures the stonechip will stick properly.
2)Rusty areas cleaned up with a wire brush in an angle grinder or drill
3)Then 2 coats of acid etch primer from an aerosol. I use Upol Acid 8. Leave the first coat for 30 minutes before applying the second
4)Floorpan prepped ready for the stonechip. I left it 2 hours after spraying the primer before spraying on the stonechip
Ah feck it, I was looking for stonechip in Halfords last week, but this is all they had there, so I bought big tin of the stuff :annoyed::annoyed:
Better start looking for this xylene based stonechip stuff instead:nod:
edit: Thanks for the tips on the prep work as well :thumbs:
A few quick pics for all the doubters :rolleyes:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture999-1.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture976.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture1007-1.jpg
Joematose
16-04-2008, 13:09
Still nothing that proves its yours !!!! :p
Col200sx
16-04-2008, 13:42
Looks spotless dude:thumbs: Lookin forward to seeing her:nod:
Engine looks well & so does the car - now let's see proof of the combo! :p
Question about the design of the engine-bay in the red one: surely it's not a great idea having the intercooler physically beside the rad for heat-conductive reasons? :confused:
Engine looks well & so does the car - now let's see proof of the combo! :p
Question about the design of the engine-bay in the red one: surely it's not a great idea having the intercooler physically beside the rad for heat-conductive reasons? :confused:
From research the best combination is to use the thickest rad u can find and move it as close to the viscous fan as possible without touching it, this will give it the best cooling ability. Also there is room to put electric fans on the other side of the rad so they are blowing through it if needed.The viscous can run day to day and i could switch on the electrics when drifting for super cooling. Shorter pipe work FTW!!! ;)
Also the same design engine-bay jez had with his monster spec S13
http://www.sxoc.com/site/rides/ride.php?Member_ID=100
Some new engine and car combo's for ya :)
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture995-1.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture991.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture988.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture989.jpg
Good job dude! :thumbs: Still though, would heat not radiate from the radiator to the IC if they're that close? Is there any gap or contacting material between them?
Good job dude! :thumbs: Still though, would heat not radiate from the radiator to the IC if they're that close? Is there any gap or contacting material between them?
These intercoolers work VERY well. On tests the temp of the air exiting the cooler was BELOW the temperature of the air flowing through the air filter.
The most powerful S13 in the entire SXOC ran one of those coolers to great success.
Theyre a very effective piece of kit :nod:
I would be more worried about the air that enters the engine bay through the front bumper, and particularly how easily it can go around the IC instead of through it.
AFM from a Nissan 300ZX (Z32).
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture1144.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture1143.jpg
It might be a good idea to build sides around the rad and fmic so that all the air that comes in is forced through the setup, and could do the same for the top and bottom so the air cannot go under or over either.
What are they, Garrett ICs? Where'd you get it?
Joematose
01-05-2008, 13:49
Hey twincam,
did you port the wastegate on the GT2871R ???
I'm gona do mine, :nod:
wondering if you know any engineering place around galway that would do it handy ??
Hey twincam,
did you port the wastegate on the GT2871R ???
I'm gona do mine, :nod:
wondering if you know any engineering place around galway that would do it handy ??
No, didn't bother. Got mine mapped yesterday by the mod doctor :notworthy 1.4bar at 3.5k afaik :eek:
Strange enough at 1.4bar mine didn't spike and dropped off near the top end. Maybe something with having a more restrictive exhaust as i have a 3" elbow but only a 2.5" cat back system but i don't really know tbh.
Thanks again stiv for the great job done yesterday :thumbs:
Col200sx
02-05-2008, 15:09
Good stuff Emmett:thumbs: Great to hear she's up and going.
What kinda power do you think she's pushing?
So I take it she'll make it down to Killarney this weekend?
Good stuff Emmett:thumbs: Great to hear she's up and going.
What kinda power do you think she's pushing?
So I take it she'll make it down to Killarney this weekend?
The same engine and setup was makin 325bhp at 1.2bar but i haven't a clue what it's pushin out now.
Time for another RR day :Plug:
yeah, she'll be going to the lakes for the weekend :nod:
Joematose
02-05-2008, 17:34
Fair Play man :thumbs:
Great to hear she's runnin..... must go like a dream now :nod:
Lookin forward to seein it in the flesh... but wont make killarney i'm afraid... tis tubby gasket weekend for me :rolleyes:
Time for another RR day :Plug:
Jeebus will you people give me 5 mins??! :whip: :cry
By the way, I can confirm this car exists but that's not to say that he owns it! :p :D
but wont make killarney i'm afraid... tis tubby gasket weekend for me :rolleyes:
the gasket should only take 3-4hr the rally is all weekend:wack:
Joematose
04-05-2008, 20:31
the gasket should only take 3-4hr the rally is all weekend
ah now that might be true, but I'm doin a few other bits too... waitin on one or two parts :rolleyes:
Enjoy Killarney :thumbs:
ah now that might be true, but I'm doin a few other bits too... waitin on one or two parts :rolleyes:
Enjoy Killarney :thumbs:
:ghey:
Emmet, how is she on juice & what actuator/boost-controller have you?
Also, if you have a sec, what are the stats for the following:
1) What rpm does she start to spool at?
2) Full-boost hits at what rpm?
:ghey:
Emmet, how is she on juice & what actuator/boost-controller have you?
Also, if you have a sec, what are the stats for the following:
1) What rpm does she start to spool at?
2) Full-boost hits at what rpm?
Sorry man, keep losing my phones, only found it yesterday :rolleyes:
Getting about 25 mpg. CA's are thirsty bastarwards anyways. Using an HKS actuator and apexi power fc boost controller kit.
1) My rev counter is not that acurate, the rev limiter is set at 7k on the power fc but hits 7750 rpm on the rev counter :wack:
2) Stiv checked on his labtop when mapping it and think it hit 1.4 bar at 3.5k rpm but can't remember as was a long day tbh. Maybe ask him if he remembers or if the info is stored on his laptop by any chance. Wouldn't mind knowing myself if it is stored as would be a more acurate figure :Plug:
Jeebus will you people give me 5 mins??! :whip: :cry
By the way, I can confirm this car exists but that's not to say that he owns it! :p :D
Cheaper insurance my friend :)
Ok, will do! :thumbs:
Cheaper insurance my friend :)
Ahhh! Lol! I was only taking the mick, didn't actually cop you really didn't own it! :wack:
Ok, will do! :thumbs:
Ahhh! Lol! I was only taking the mick, didn't actually cop you really didn't own it! :wack:
lol, i told you down portlaoise that night but as you said you didn't cop.
Can drive anything once im not the registered owner.
Had to produce my policy already and it past the test :)
:ghey:
Emmet, how is she on juice & what actuator/boost-controller have you?
Also, if you have a sec, what are the stats for the following:
1) What rpm does she start to spool at?
2) Full-boost hits at what rpm?
Stiv got back to me to confirm spool up and when it hit's full-boost with the 2871.
hit 1.4bar at 3600rpm think it started at 2800rpm,
What MPG did you get with E85 JP?
Nice one dude, thanks! :thumbs:
What MPG did you get with E85 JP?
These are the details from my E85 project thread as to the mileage, don't know what that is in MPG though?? :confused:
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showpost.php?p=3706589&postcount=137
A few more bits arrived. Im happy enough with the engine build and power related mods to get where it's at now, just waiting on cams and clutch to finish it off. Now im turning my attention to suspension and handling. After reading the "don't buy cheap stuff" thread on driftworks http://www.driftworks.com/forum/other-chat/44475-dont-buy-cheap-stuff.html i thought it was best not to buy cheap shiny bits from the states and went for an apex full alignment kit.
On the rear i was thinking of setting 0.5mm toe-in to enhance straight-line stability with out too much tire wear on the outer edges and power loss, and on the front 0.0mm toe achieve minimum tyre wear and equal cornering and straight line ability. Also setting castor +7.5 degrees to improve straight line stability. Equal castor on both sides of the car will help stop the tendency to pull to one side. Then setting the front and rear to negitive camber by -1.5 degress to help with handling. I also got subframe locking collars to eliminate movement between the subframe and the car, and to improve handling, traction and the feel of the rear end of the car.
Any other suggested alignment setting's that are different from the above would be appreciated. Anyone recommened a good laser alignment place to get it setup and how much should the cost roughly.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/PICT0001.jpg
Adjustable Front tc arms
Adjustable Rear camber arms
Adjustable Rear toe arms
Adjustable Rear traction arms
Subframe locking collars
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/PICT0013.jpg
Joematose
12-06-2008, 21:19
Nice gear man :nod:
You gonna fit it all yourself ?
I got laser alignment done in ballinrobe in westyre, couldnt fault them really,
but not sure if they would know what to do with all them bits :wack:
That car will be a serious weapon when it's all together !!!
but when you gettin your new clutch in ? :D
but when you gettin your new clutch in ? :D
:D No hurry... It just doesn't like launches :( It never slips at everyday driving even at 1.4bar, surprising for a standard clutch :eek: didn't even think we would get it fully mapped tbh. It's going to be a smooth as a babies arse by the time it comes out ;)
Nice gear man :nod:
You gonna fit it all yourself ?
Fitted the front this evening, put wd40 on this morning. Alignment arms are straight forward enough, just keeping them the same length as ones coming off. Will fit the rears when i fit coilovers. They also look straight forward, just set the preload and keep oposite sides the same hight by measuring the distance between the collars. Hopefully that's all it is anyways....
Is that place a proper 3d job with before and after printouts? How much did they charge. Might give them a ring to see what the craic is.
Joematose
12-06-2008, 23:18
Oh not sure how 3d it is :rolleyes:
Its a proper laser setup, but not sure... there might be more sophisticated stuff for the kind of work you want
Fair play anyway.... thats serious good work :nod:
give my mate a shout for a chat emmett i'm sure it will be cheaper after i get all mine set up:thumbs: full laser alignment
give my mate a shout for a chat emmett i'm sure it will be cheaper after i get all mine set up:thumbs: full laser alignment
Cool. Just pricing around to see if there is anything closer to home. Hopefully will get most parts fitted this weekend so will need it done soon after that.
Nice one dude, thanks! :thumbs:
These are the details from my E85 project thread as to the mileage, don't know what that is in MPG though?? :confused:
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showpost.php?p=3706589&postcount=137
"Top to drain, mostly-sensible motorway driving from a full tank"
Works out at 24MPG averaging 18.5 cent per mile
"Top to drain, not being very sensible & urban-only driving from a full tank"
Works out at 16MPG averaging 26.7 cent per mile
Looking at your mileage from shirley at your limerick fill up you managed 27MPG averaging 16 cent per mile.
Your E85 MPG is similar to mine on 95ron. But at 97.9 per litre compared to 129.9 per litre, you would save 525 euro over 10,000 miles.
Will you get cheaper tax with this new emissions tax system with your greener fuel? Im seriously thinking of it now if it was just more widely available nationwide.
SM's CA got 390 bhp with 2871 and cams, similar spec to mine. E85 that spec and things could be interesting to say the least :D
e85 ca18det cool, no problem getting big top fed injectors for that:thumbs:
Will you get cheaper tax with this new emissions tax system with your greener fuel?
No because I'll still be based on the old tax system of "cc" being the way they decide your tax rate.
e85 ca18det cool, no problem getting big top fed injectors for that:thumbs:
:nod: 1600cc injectors for example... :D
That's shite :indiff:
Think people would be let apply for the emissions system if there emissions were low enough to qualify to promote smaller and lesser emission based cars.
Yup! Such are our lovely government...
The latest generation of apex coilovers
32 way click damping adjustable
Ride height adjustable
Pillowball front top mounts
Camber adjustable rose jointed front top mounts
spring preload adjustable
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/078.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/062.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/041.jpg
That's going to be some fun when you get the new clutch in...... :D
That's going to be some fun when you get the new clutch in...... :D
It's fun now... 3k miles done on a standard clutch since mapping, just don't try launching ;)
CA ftw!!! :D
Anyone know where i can get an apexi hand controller holder or something to hold it on the dash...
JP: I notice you had one in your car but i forgot to ask you where did you get it? Is it a phone holder and what make of phone is it for if it is.
cheers.
Col200sx
17-06-2008, 12:47
:eek: You're putting the rest of us in the west to shame you are:whip:
She'll be nicely set up when she's finished:clap:
Anyone know where i can get an apexi hand controller holder or something to hold it on the dash....
You try Premier Motorsport in Westside? The may on off chance have one over the counter:confused: I know they are an official apexi dealer
:eek: You're putting the rest of us in the west to shame you are:whip:
She'll be nicely set up when she's finished:clap:
You try Premier Motorsport in Westside? The may on off chance have one over the counter:confused: I know they are an official apexi dealer
Yeah, i never think of them for anything for some reason, i must swing in for a look. I think they deal with apex aswell afaik or i could be taking shite :wack:
Have you being flashing my bird lately, she didn't see it/you anyways ;):D
Col200sx
17-06-2008, 16:11
Yeah, i never think of them for anything for some reason, i must swing in for a look. I think they deal with apex aswell afaik or i could be taking shite :wack:
Yep you're right. They're authorised Apex dealers. I know of your man that owns it. Ph no is 091-581110 if you need it:thumbs:
Have you being flashing my bird lately, she didn't see it/you anyways ;):D
Yes, sorry that was me flashing at your bird:wave: Very disappointed I didn't get a flash back:wack:
Booked it in for an NCT to see what i need to get sorted, guess what it failed on..... :(
Nothing!!! :D Got to love the CA exhaust emissions test, none of this CAT business needed and max CO allowed 3.5% and HC 750ppm on low idle ;)
Another thumbs up to Stiv for a good map :thumbs:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/029.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/PICT0044.jpg
JP: I notice you had one in your car but i forgot to ask you where did you get it? Is it a phone holder and what make of phone is it for if it is.
It's an Apexi PFC Commander holder, attaches to the air vents so it's easily removable. It was with the car when I got it so I'm guessing any Apexi agent should be able to get one for you. Try the usual Jap places if the local ones don't have any. I can check for a part number but not sure it has one..? :confused:
Oh & congrats on the NCT!! :D
Joematose
18-06-2008, 07:22
Well done with the NCT.......
Did the tester look at you like you had 3 heads, when he saw that engine ? :D
Col200sx
18-06-2008, 11:42
Well done on NCT:clap:
Tis a good feeling getting the old yellow and green piece of paper.
Speaking of which, I need a new one now too:wave:
You try Premier Motorsport in Westside? I know they are an official apexi dealer
It's an Apexi PFC Commander holder, attaches to the air vents so it's easily removable. It was with the car when I got it so I'm guessing any Apexi agent should be able to get one for you. Try the usual Jap places if the local ones don't have any. I can check for a part number but not sure it has one..? :confused:
Oh & congrats on the NCT!! :D
called into malcolm in premier motorsport, apexi don't do holders for the pfc commander?!?!
I think my best bet would be a mobile phone holder of some sort...
Well done with the NCT.......
Did the tester look at you like you had 3 heads, when he saw that engine ? :D
Something different from what they normally see everyday id say, he didn't even put his hands around the engine to pull at things, maybe the viscous fan put him off as it has no cover. I was expecting him to go pulling at the rad and fmic ect. I forgot i had no clamp on my battery either....
Well done on NCT:clap:
Tis a good feeling getting the old yellow and green piece of paper.
Speaking of which, I need a new one now too:wave:
A fella got a 200e fine going over the bridge last week. Think they are starting to clamp down on nct as have the country don't have one even though i went through checkpoint last week coming back from bishopscourt. He was more interested why i had the rear interior stripped out :D
Col200sx
18-06-2008, 18:56
A fella got a 200e fine going over the bridge last week. Think they are starting to clamp down on nct as have the country don't have one even though i went through checkpoint last week coming back from bishopscourt. He was more interested why i had the rear interior stripped out :D
€200 fine, fook that. Did he have no NCT displayed, or did he just have an expired NCT?
Mine's out since start of April. Don't wanna go through another one, stupid decat:wack:
€200 fine, fook that. Did he have no NCT displayed, or did he just have an expired NCT?
Mine's out since start of April. Don't wanna go through another one, stupid decat:wack:
None displayed
fuk me great work ...amazing the amount of time ,effort ,money and love lol great work
cheers
rab
fuk me great work ...amazing the amount of time ,effort ,money and love lol great work
cheers
rab
Ah the competion is here for a look lol ;)
Cheers man :thumbs: "love" lol, it was hate most of the time, but it all feels worthwhile now that its running well :nod:
Nearly gave up after i fooked the first two :eek: But rebuilding it is what i should have done the first time, once rebuilt with mhg and forged goodness they don't usually give too much trouble. Hopefully it will be a good platform to run some noice powah.
Fitted the adjustable alignment arms to discover the origional bolts are not long enough to get the nuts on right as as the apex arms are thicker then the origional arms, and the nuts could easily come loose. Just a heads up for anyone fitting some in the future to keep in mind.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/053.jpg
Mine's out since start of April. Don't wanna go through another one, stupid decat:wack:
Then map your car for E85! :D Tuam's only up the road...... ;)
Ah the competion is here for a look lol ;)
Cheers man :thumbs: "love" lol, it was hate most of the time, but it all feels worthwhile now that its running well :nod:
The "hate it after it's 1st proper rebuild" is where I am right now... :whip:
Nothing!!! :D Got to love the CA exhaust emissions test, none of this CAT business needed and max CO allowed 3.5% and HC 750ppm on low idle ;)
what was the results from the emissions test?, would be nice to know how much you get with petrol and no cat:wack:
what was the results from the emissions test?, would be nice to know how much you get with petrol and no cat:wack:
Low idle: CO 1.14% HC 136ppm.
Is there anything you could tweek in the map to improve on city MPG or is best to leave it the way you have it. Getting about 18MPG but im thinking that sounds about right.
Getting about 29MPG driving outside city limits.
I'm thinking of going with the whiteline SPORT suggested wheel alignment settings. Has anyone any thoughts about using these settings for everyday driving or any other suggestions would be appreciated.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/align.jpg
Low idle: CO 1.14% HC 136ppm.
Is there anything you could tweek in the map to improve on city MPG or is best to leave it the way you have it. Getting about 18MPG but im thinking that sounds about right.
Getting about 29MPG driving outside city limits.
we can have a look when we are doing the top end when you get the new clutch:wack:
Fitted the coilovers today. When i drove it with just the rears changed it made a huge difference and was well impressed. Then fitted the fronts and took it for a spin but felt very bouncy. I think i may have adjusted the preload to much on the front, could that be the problem?
A few pics with them fitted (taken from a phone)
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/PICT0074.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/PICT0077.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/PICT0078.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/PICT0080.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/PICT0071.jpg
Niiice! :cool: Now all you need are brakes... :D
bouncy ?? hmmm they should be bouncy esp with that low profile tyres ...what spring rating have u got? turn them up a bit they will take a bit of tim to set up to ur own driving sytle it always take me a few weeks to set coilovers up on my cars
Niiice! :cool: Now all you need are brakes... :D
yeah, and we both know where there is a nice set of M3 discs lying about ;)
bouncy ?? hmmm they should be bouncy esp with that low profile tyres ...what spring rating have u got? turn them up a bit they will take a bit of tim to set up to ur own driving sytle it always take me a few weeks to set coilovers up on my cars
Yeah, it will take a while to get setup. Adjusted the preload too much on the front so i could turn the bottom collar up hign enough to lower the car to what i thought i wanted, but didn't need to go as far as i did, ended up lowering the ride 70mm :wack:
Will reset the preload again tomorrow to 5mm when i raise it the front 20mm to keep it 10mm higher then the back restoring the oem sill rake balance, measuring sills to floor to give to give same ride hight all all round.
What do you find a good damping setting front and rear although every car will be different but may give me a starting point.
M3 disks you say, with 4pots you say, think i might know where they can be found:thumbs:
M3 disks you say, with 4pots you say, think i might know where they can be found:thumbs:
Aye surely, whenever there ready :thumbs:
Coilovers and alignment arms all fitted, arms all coated with copper grase before fitting, just coilovers left to grease up when making final adjustments. Then fit locking collars and get laser alignment done when im happy with the ride height.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/PICT0055.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/PICT0058.jpg
looking well emmett you must take me for a spin in it the next day and i'll see about all this talk of ca power:thumbs:
Finally got my box of parts i ordered last january, after the first package going missing in the post and the seller having the package insured for $100!!!!
Waiting on this clutch kit for the longest time and when it arrives it's the wrong one. I ordered an ACT organic clutch kit but they sent me an ACT 6 puck sprung clutch kit. Probably alot harsher on the gearbox as it's alreay on it's limit and also has a reputation of munching flywheels as seen several times on here. Also as the car is mostly used for stop start city driving, Dan from SRB power predicted in 10k miles i would be looking for a new clutch and fw.....
On the other hand i think there is a few of the lads over here using paddle clutch's and had no problems so far. Don't know what to do really, keep the paddle or get the organic as planned :confused:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture1232.jpg
looking well emmett you must take me for a spin in it the next day and i'll see about all this talk of ca power:thumbs:
No bother, just need to get the alignment done after fitting the arm kit as it's a bit hairy atm, but seem to be getting used to it :wack:
Joematose
17-07-2008, 22:51
Lookin good man... you seem to have it all covered !
on the clutch... I think it all depends more on the spring rating of the clutch...
I have a 6 puck paddle ( not an expensive one by any means )
and
while its much more on/off than a normal clutch....
I havent really had any problems, you get used to it,
and develop leg muscles to suit :wack:
It's different but not necessarily bad... and with regards to the gearbox... thats probably more driver specific :D
What're those little Nismo things in the corner then, hmmmm? :)
What're those little Nismo things in the corner then, hmmmm? :)
Shiney bits and a clutch pivot :)
What's inside this box should be a good addition :cool:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture030.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture031.jpg
And the ACT 6 Puck clutch kit. Still undecided to use the paddle or get an orgaic :confused: The paddle has a higher torque rating and will take abuse but don't know about the on/off engagement for everyday city driving or if it will last and not munch my flywheel....
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture1230.jpg
Shiney bits and a clutch pivot :)
What's a clutch pivot? :confused: I think I asked this elsewhere in a thread recently...
And the ACT 6 Puck clutch kit. Still undecided to use the paddle or get an orgaic :confused: The paddle has a higher torque rating and will take abuse but don't know about the on/off engagement for everyday city driving or if it will last and not munch my flywheel....
STOP BEING :ghey:!!! :p Torque is something you'll start to worry about soon with that engine of yours so get cracking at getting that clutch in & stop being so pants! :whip: If it munches it learn your lesson from buying cheap drivetrain parts & get HKS next time! :D
What's a clutch pivot? :confused: I think I asked this elsewhere in a thread recently...
If it munches it learn your lesson from buying cheap drivetrain parts & get HKS next time! :D
ACT is far from being a cheap drivetrain part :whip:
A clutch pivot is a weak part of the clutch system. Standard nissan clutch pivots can be prone to breaking, especially if a heavy duty clutch is fitted as this puts more strain on the pivot.
conlethryan
20-07-2008, 19:54
the arm that holds the release bearing pivots on a small ball located inside the box i am assuming this is the pivot point someone might say different correct me if im wrong
Where is it located?
pivot/arm/release bearing/spring and pressure plate
I'll have to look for that next time I see a gearbox off. :smash: Thanks dude! :thumbs:
Is there anything else worth changing while the box is off? I have the release bearing, pilot bushing and clutch pivot.
I'll have to look for that next time I see a gearbox off. :smash: Thanks dude! :thumbs:
This is what your looking for. If you search pivot you will see that they are prone to snapping.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture032.jpg
R360-200SX
21-07-2008, 16:11
Fair play mate keep er lit lol
I ran an ACT 6puck paddle clutch in my 437bhp everyday car, as said you get used to it and mine took good abuse at drag events and other races. lol
Fair play mate keep er lit lol
I ran an ACT 6puck paddle clutch in my 437bhp everyday car, as said you get used to it and mine took good abuse at drag events and other races. lol
Cheers mate, ill do me best :thumbs:
It's just the misses drives it most of the time, but if she don't like it, let her get the bus :D tbh i was thinking do i really need a paddle if the rps organic max street is rated over 400 ft/lbs so could handle the power and better suited to everyday use but wouldn't last long if i got excited and gave it some abuse :wack: I'm going for a spin in joe's which will be the deciding factor when he gets his turbo on :smash:
Got an Z32 apexi filter to replace the CA filter i had on the Z32 AFM :smash:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture007.jpg
CA filter (which was filthy :o) compared to the Z32 filter
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture008.jpg
Filter fitted to the Z32 AFM. Next on the list will be a stainless hard intake pipe :cool:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture009.jpg
Filter fitted to the Z32 AFM. Next on the list will be a stainless hard intake pipe :cool:
Good call - if the elephant trunk on the CA is as bad as the SR's it'll start to collapse pretty soon. Oh, & the pigeon noise'll be amplified once it's on making the car sound all the more sweet! :D
Oh, & while you're at it don't forget the cold-air box! :thumbs: Heat-soak sucks. :down:
Oh, & the pigeon noise'll be amplified once it's on making the car sound all the more sweet! :D
Pigeon you say.... and shorten the life of my new turbo, no thanks :smash:
Surge is bad and kills turbo's :nod: But does sound cool :D
Test fitted the catch tank this evening, (roughly) need to get a clamp for the air breather or a hose to vent it to atmos, whichever is better :confused: An afterthought was with having the catch tank lower then the cam covers, it has being know to fill with oil during some skids :wack: Another way that has being know to solve this problem on a CA is by fitting two catch tanks :nod:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture010.jpg
Pigeon you say.... and shorten the life of my new turbo, no thanks :smash:
Surge is bad and kills turbo's :nod: But does sound cool :D
Form over function (in this case ONLY) FTW! :D
Test fitted the catch tank this evening, (roughly) need to get a clamp for the air breather or a hose to vent it to atmos, whichever is better :confused:
Have a pipe going to the floor so that if your catch-tank fills it won't just spill all over the place but will vent oil to the floor. Mind you if it ever gets that full you know you've a serious problem & emptying the tank'll be the least of your problems! :smash:
Got the laser alignment sorted. Very happy with the way it's setup, feels great after having it done and loads of grip going around corners. The steering is the most improved as it's much more predictable an acurate. With the extra grip, the car feels more controlable when the back end does become unstuck. The handling is also very good in both wet and dry conditions with the following settings.......
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Alignmentsetup.jpg
...& yet you're still apparently too :ghey: to come to the trackday on Monday.... :rolleyes: Some people... they own a savage car, mod it to go faster & handle well, & don't even drive it! :ghey::ghey::ghey: I'll tell you what, sell it to me for the going rate for an S13 of your year with a CA18 in it & I'll be more-than-happy to drive it the way it should be driven! :thumbs: It's the least I could do for the poor gal as you're obviously not up to the task! :p
...& yet you're still apparently too :ghey: to come to the trackday on Monday.... :rolleyes: Some people... they own a savage car, mod it to go faster & handle well, & don't even drive it! :ghey::ghey::ghey: I'll tell you what, sell it to me for the going rate for an S13 of your year with a CA18 in it & I'll be more-than-happy to drive it the way it should be driven! :thumbs: It's the least I could do for the poor gal as you're obviously not up to the task! :p
You wouldn't be able to handle the revs of a CA ;)
When is it classed as :ghey: not to do a trackday when im getting det because i have to finish off the top end of the map :confused: It's called not being stupid and killing your engine :smash: Now go have one of your west coast coolers SUPER :ghey: as that's more then enough for you to handle :p
You wouldn't be able to handle the revs of a CA ;)
When is it classed as :ghey: not to do a trackday when im getting det because i have to finish off the top end of the map :confused:
Lol! Says he who considers a 7500rpm limit high! Weaksause... :ghey:
You were getting det? :confused: Forgive me if I didn't notice, I'd been up since the Thursday morning & when I got to bed after the RR-day I slept for 13 hours! :wack: I thought you were just disappointed with the figures because your exhaust was too restrictive? At least that's what a wee birdie told me was the reason you weren't going... :whip:
Oh, & stop being a nancy-boy about it & call down to Stiv for an hour to finish it off! :smash:
Oh, & stop being a nancy-boy about it & call down to Stiv for an hour to finish it off! :smash:
No point calling upto Stiv until it's ready to be mapped to 1.8bar depending on egt's. I'm being restricted as it is now, so my priority is to solve that problem first. Then finish off the mapping and get it on the RR again to see if the exhaust was the problem. Then get the cams in and will have to map again and unleash this beast's CA powah lol :)
So that's twice i will have to call upto Stiv's as it is, so i have enough on my plate tbh without having to call up a third time to finishing off the pressent map for the trackday :whip:
Or you could call up, sort the map for the trackday, then install exhaust & cams & map it then & get it RR'd? :) You'd have the best of every world! :nod:
....but at the end of the day you're still driving a CA! :p :D
Lots of different ideas what could be causing the engine breathing problem. The dyno tuner suggested looking at the IC. He was thinking at 1.4 bar the turbo was just spinning hot air as was not being cooled sufficantly by the IC and not making power. I was thinking the backpressure in my 2.5" exhaust was restricting the breathing of the engine and therefore strangling power, but later found out Bigtone made 430bhp with a 2.5" exhaust :eek: Also another member on here made over 400bhp with a 2.5" exhaust system.
Other scenarios were it could be because of the 95ron fuel it was mapped on...
Any ideas, if it's an engine breathing problem would it be either IC or exhaust?
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/201_1367.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture384.jpg
Get an air temp sensor (I think you can get a simple setup from Maplins or Radionics maybe?) and see what the difference in air temp is between the air intake, the beginning of the intercooler, and after the intercooler.
Ideas just looking at it:
- Heat-soak from the Apexi filter at high boost with no cold-air box/induction from outside
- Intercooler heat-soak from rad possibly?
- Airflow through bumper insufficient
- Heat-wrap your exhaust manifold & inlet piping to prevent more heat-soak
- Run on E85! :D
Haven't really taken any pics since the cars transformation from being a bog standard S13, so i took advantage of a rare sunny day to take some.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture278.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Picture279.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/080.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/062-1.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/067.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/066.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/031.jpg
...those kouki rear lights really give a damn good looking to the car...
200sxkids13
13-10-2008, 17:04
id highly dought it would be that cooler i have the exact same one ( old apex one ?? ) and i havent had no problems nore have a few others that run them at even higher power???
Suprmek1
13-10-2008, 23:37
What powers you making and whats the full spec love CA powers :D
Fake Ben Taylor
14-10-2008, 00:09
What powers you making and whats the full spec love CA powers :D
shame you never managed to produce your own ca powers eh?:wack:
Not really running ca powah yet. Want to get it running properly first.
Engine Spec:
Power FC "pro version"
Power FC Boost control Kit
GT2871R
660cc injectors
260 Tomie cams
Tomie cam pullies
Z32 AFM
Z32 Apexi Filter
Apex Aluminium Radiator
Apex Intercooler
Apex turbo elbow
xs manifold
KA24DE throttle body
Full top and bottom rebuild
Forged pistons
1.6 MHG
Oh yeah, did you replace the AFM-to-Turbo elephant trunk pipe with a stainless one so that it's not that collapsing? Or anything else of the above list to see how your breathing was doing?
Oh yeah, did you replace the AFM-to-Turbo elephant trunk pipe with a stainless one so that it's not that collapsing? Or anything else of the above list to see how your breathing was doing?
No, my turbo gasgets are blowing and won't be changing them till next month :(
Suprmek1
19-10-2008, 20:34
shame you never managed to produce your own ca powers eh?:wack:
I made 510 BHP ran it for a short while but then an injector failed and caused one of the pistons to pick up :(. Its now been re-built but lack of money is still holding it up as i need to re-map it on race fuel and turn up the boost :D
After losing abit of interest it's time to get the finger out and try get the engine breathing sorted. The plan is to fit a 3" exhaust, larger IC cold pipe and stainless elephant trunk, as being suggested that could also be collapsing. Then get it rr'd again and see will there be any difference between using the 3" and 2.5" exhaust systems. Hopefully it free's up the breathing problem and makes more power. Then add cams, pullies, larger tb, more boost and remap :D
Had my current straight through exhaust db tested at the last meet. IDLE: 84db / 4K RPM: 99db. I'm also hoping with the new silenced downpipe, and extra silencers, the dual exhaust system will be a few db's quieter.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/040.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/041-1.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/195.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/192.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/006-1.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/005.jpg
Woodys13
07-01-2009, 23:18
Nice mod list for your engine dood! :clap:
:eek: Please tell me they are not stock 257mm brakes though :eek:
I take it you like the "unpredictable" drives out then ? :wack:
Forgive me if this has been answered by why is your vented headlight cover on the same side as the battery and not the air filter :confused:
:eek: Please tell me they are not stock 257mm brakes though :eek:
lol :o I must change them sometime :wack:
Forgive me if this has been answered by why is your vented headlight cover on the same side as the battery and not the air filter :confused:
Because it was free :) And i like the look of the vented covers.
Woodys13
07-01-2009, 23:47
lol :o I must change them sometime :wack:
:whip: do it lol :wack:
I bet its very entertaining when trying to haul in that kind of power lol
:whip: do it lol :wack:
I bet its very entertaining when trying to haul in that kind of power lol
Keep her lit lol, my problem atm is it's not going quick enough! Brakes will be changed soon though tbh, but it does stop.............................................. ............................eventually!
I have question. I have turbo gt2871 on my ca18 and my car is spooling@ 4000rpm and gets high boost on 4700rpm? what should i do to get it spoolin @ 3500
Do you want the other vented side to go with it, got on for sale ;) :D
Good engine spec aswell, wouldve loved that when i had my ca, good luck :)
I have question. I have turbo gt2871 on my ca18 and my car is spooling@ 4000rpm and gets high boost on 4700rpm? what should i do to get it spoolin @ 3500
Which 2871r is it? Mine is the .64AR which gives less lag. It start's spooling at 2800rpm and hits 1.4bar at 3500rpm. Also wrapping manifold, elbow and downpipe may help with lag.
I'm getting my information from datalogic software and not the cars rev counter as your rev counter may not be very accurate. My rev limiter on the power fc is set to 7200rpm but the cars rev limiter nearly hits 8K so would not rely on this.
Starks, pm coming you way :thumbs:
Cool, i dont think ill use it tbh, was meaning to but just never got round to doing it :wack:
CillianS14a
08-01-2009, 16:35
That new exhaust is looking great emmett! Very shiny! :thumbs:Will you be selling your 2.5" cat-back??:)
That new exhaust is looking great emmett! Very shiny! :thumbs:Will you be selling your 2.5" cat-back??:)
hey cillian :wave:
Yeah, ill be selling it. It's from the elbow back with decat downpipe.
You know anyone interested?
EDIT: starks, you pm inbox is full.
this is pic of my turbo and my downpipe.
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/5360/dsc00089wg5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/7281/dsc04307sh7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT28/GT2871R_472560_15.htm
i have greedy profec e-01 so i am monitoring my boost through him, and spool is on 4.000 rpm also i am thinking about new exh. manifold so i could get lower spool
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT28/GT2871R_472560_15.htm
Same turbo as mine.
I have oversized pistons giving higher CR to spool turbo quicker at lower revs.
Also my IC is in the engine bay in front of the rad. Shorter IC pipes and less bends reduces lag. (allegedely)
Mapping could also be the difference, ignition timing ect...
this is pic of my turbo and my downpipe.
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/5360/dsc00089wg5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
That elbow still looks pretty restrcitive as exhaust flow goes: it's fine as long as the turbo's spooling (straight down what looks like a 2" pipe or at least as big as the exhaust wheel) but as soon as it reaches full-boost & the wastegate opens the flow directly behind the exhaust turbine gets disrupted by the wastegate flow creating turbulence in the pipe therefore slowing the exhaust gases escaping further from the turbo. Just a thought...
CillianS14a
09-01-2009, 13:35
hey cillian :wave:
Yeah, ill be selling it. It's from the elbow back with decat downpipe.
You know anyone interested?
EDIT: starks, you pm inbox is full.
I was wondering would the system from cat-back fit mine with a few adjustments? I hope the new 3" goes well , hopefully there'll be a few more ponies revealled!;)
I was also looking at the pics of the stonechip underseal you were telling me aboutr on sunday that stuff looks brilliant:eek::notworthy
this is pic of my turbo and my downpipe.
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/5360/dsc00089wg5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
This is the design of the elbow im using. As you can see it looks much less restrictive then the one in the above picture.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/Emmett1.jpg
I was wondering would the system from cat-back fit mine with a few adjustments?
I'm not sure of the difference in design between sr an ca exhausts, and doubt it might work as it's a straight through pipe from elbow back, but your more then welcome to take it away and see if you can get it to fit somehow, and if not just leave it back again sometime :thumbs:
I'm not sure of the difference in design between sr an ca exhausts, and doubt it might work as it's a straight through pipe from elbow back, but your more then welcome to take it away and see if you can get it to fit somehow, and if not just leave it back again sometime :thumbs:
Nelly's great at that! :D He may just kill me for suggesting it, but he's great at it! :notworthy
CillianS14a
10-01-2009, 21:20
I'm not sure of the difference in design between sr an ca exhausts, and doubt it might work as it's a straight through pipe from elbow back, but your more then welcome to take it away and see if you can get it to fit somehow, and if not just leave it back again sometime :thumbs:
That'd be mighty emmet!:thumbs: There's no panic anyways as i'm hopefully gettin my splitter on monday evening so its something to look forward to. I'll have a look around to check the different fitments between the CA and SR's, i'll get back to you on this:thumbs:
Nelly's great at that! :D He may just kill me for suggesting it, but he's great at it! :notworthy
Cool, i will have to call upto him in a couple of weeks to fit mine when he's welder's fixed as my new downpipe needs to be cut and welded to make it line up properly and not out the side of the car :annoyed:
Also my manifold gaskets are blowing, and not the manifold to turbo gasket as thought. Only done about 3K miles :annoyed:
To top it off my oil sensor is smashed :annoyed:
Had a very productive day up at stiv's yesterday lol:wack:
Also my manifold gaskets are blowing, and not the manifold to turbo gasket as thought. Only done about 3K miles :annoyed:
To top it off my oil sensor is smashed :annoyed:
Had a very productive day up at stiv's yesterday lol:wack:
Good to know you're doing all the troubleshooting now rather than later! :D
As for the head-to-manifold gasket, proper layered metal jobbie FTW! :thumbs:
Update:
Got some layered metal gaskets for the manifold to head. Couldn't believe the condition of the nissan paper manifold gaskets, all four of them were buggered in a proper burnt like condition only after 3 months:eek:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/101_1611.jpg
Unfortunately a manifold stud broke in the head when changing the gaskets. When put back together with the bolt missing was fine at first, but once the boost was turned up it started to blow again. The plan is to weld a stud to the broken one and weld a nut to the stud and hopefully it can be turned out.
I will also be getting some 260 duration tomei cams 8.8 lift with tomei adjustable pullies fitted, and getting the exhaust cut and welded so it lines up. I origionally wanted to fit the exhaust and put it back on the RR to compare results between a 2.5" system and 3" system and see if that solved my breathing problem, but i've run out of time, patience and money at this stage and just going to put it all together and take it from there. The work should be getting done during the easter holidays and ready for the next sxoc ireland rr day.
Bodywork:
It's a good job i'm going to respray to car during the summer or i would be very pissed off when some dickhead decided to kick in my quarter panel. I thought it wasn't too bad but it has creased when poped back out.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/008-1.jpg
Before respraying the car i'm going to go over it with some 2000 grit wet and dry used wet to get some practice taking out the 2000 marks with this bad boy. A makita 9227cb.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1667.jpg
First time using it the results looked good, but tbh when the sun came up today and shone on the panels, it showed up swirl marks induced by the machine probably caused by not using enough compound :whip: A big thanks to pete (petrol) for his advice using G10. :thumbs:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1664.jpg
Finally got round to removing the sponge from the bootlid. I wish i did this two years ago before there was any sign of rust. To be fair though i was expecting much worse and it wasn't in too bad condition for a pre facelit.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/003-1.jpg
I used some P40 fibreglass to fill the small holes from inside the lid and then slightly proud on the outside. I'm going to cut two holes 2" by 3" to get rid of any sign of rust so it doesn't start to bubble again through the paint. I was thinking of getting a welder to tack two plates to cover the holes and fill over, but i think i will try do it myself using mesh, fibreglass and filler. I Will have to wait to get the mesh before giving a skim of filler over the fibreglass. I will also be getting rid of the rear wiper too.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/005-2.jpg
only skim read atm, notice alot of the same mods as my own CA......
Nice modification to the pfc....
I see u said u got poor power at the rr, but dont see figures:confused:
only skim read atm, notice alot of the same mods as my own CA......
Nice modification to the pfc....
I see u said u got poor power at the rr, but dont see figures:confused:
It's a genuine ca18 power fc, "pro" version ftw, mucho flammage :D
Only made just under 300bhp which was seriously pish for a 2871:(
I think the cold pipe or/and the exhaust are too small not letting engine breath freely on high boost. Both will be changed for the next rr day coming up soon.
Will also be checking IC temps to see if it's working sufficiently before and while it's on the rollers. If not, then that will also be swapped for fmic in bumper position with larger core/pipes away from engine temps, heat soak from rad and possibly insufficient air flow through the Pre facelift frontbumper.
How does your IC work in the front of rad position? Did you ever check how much above ambient temp the air was in the cold pipe? Do you think there might be insufficient air flow to cooler through pfl bumper and did you make up anything to make sure the air goes through the IC rather then around or above it :confused:
i have the same pfc, and have only modded two pfc's with a little purple wire sticking out so u can run the boost controller, mine is one;)
Is it not kieran E1's old set-up u have?
unmapped my ca made 309 with 1.2bar on the 2871.
Mapping made a big differance.
in front of rad works just fine and airflow to it was fine too with preface bumper, but some paneling to stop the air going over, under, and esspecially round the sides of the ic/rad combo made a decent differance.
the bit u quoted earlier in the thread about the cooler chilling the after ic temps lower than the air in temps, was my car with that set-up:)
The only time u would get heatsoak in the rad is sitting in traffic, at any other tme, the air is pushing the other way;)
I wouldnt think ur cold piping would be an issue unless its silly small, which it doesnt look tbh, but the exhaust could well be.
btw im still on the standard 2871 actuator and it holds 1.7bar just fine:)
you can flow over 500bhp through a 2 inch intercooler pipe so its not that. and ive also seen over 350bhp out of mine with the 2 inch exhaust bung still in the back box.
you will get a lot of heat soak at the rolling road with the rad mounted intercooler set up as there is not as much air flowing over them both to get rid of it efficiently, it will be much better on the road as kev says. but still not as good as a bumper mounted set up.
i was getting charge temps in the mid 30s today when mapping and thats with a bumper mounted ic, but back on the road its around 15 to 20 again.
id definately get the car mapped before you do much more as it will make a world of difference.
Great car with great Engine!
I love the ca18det!!!!!!!
:thumbs:
Ciao from Italy
Arian
Jezz_S13
24-03-2009, 09:51
Did you do the RR run with the default PFC map?
If so that's most likely the issue, it's a conservative conservative map; they have to be to be plug and play.
i have the same pfc, and have only modded two pfc's with a little purple wire sticking out so u can run the boost controller, mine is one;)
Is it not kieran E1's old set-up u have?
Got ya now, yeah, it's kieran's old set up :)
Same colour wire from the loom to the hot start that was used if i remember correctly. Nice work, it was handy to set up :thumbs:
Good luck on the RR day at dastek, looking forward to seeing the figures. What cams are you using btw?
you can flow over 500bhp through a 2 inch intercooler pipe so its not that. and ive also seen over 350bhp out of mine with the 2 inch exhaust bung still in the back box.
Why do you always notice the cold pipe alot larger then the hot pipe :confused: I thought it would make sence to have the cold pipe the same size as the tb? I don't know tbh, that's why i ask.
Did you do the RR run with the default PFC map?
If so that's most likely the issue, it's a conservative conservative map; they have to be to be plug and play.
The top end of the map still has to be done as the clutch started to slip during the last mapping session, but we didn't think that would of made up for the powerloss.
The rr guy's opinion was the turbo was just generating heat at higher boost and not cooling the air sufficiently on the rolling road, but that was just his guess.
Great car with great Engine!
I love the ca18det!!!!!!!
:thumbs:
Ciao from Italy
Arian
I don't have the best of luck with them, but still love them:wack:
Jezz_S13
24-03-2009, 12:51
Not sure about the default CA map, but the timing on the SR map is massively retarded, I added ~12 degrees advance to it, that would account for lots of power if the default CA map is anything like that safe.
Obviously don't just go adding igntion willy nilly.
its something to do with air densety, when the air is hot it takes up less space, but once it has been cooled by the IC it takes up more space so needs a larger tube to not be as much of a restriction.
something like that anyway lol
Jezz_S13
24-03-2009, 14:45
When it's hot, air takes more space; so for the same volume you get less mass or air.
Basically, hot air is less dense which means you get less air/fuel charge the hotter the air is, less charge = less power.
Why do you always notice the cold pipe alot larger then the hot pipe :confused: I thought it would make sence to have the cold pipe the same size as the tb? I don't know tbh, that's why i ask.
What sizes are each of the pipes you have at the moment? Filter-to-turbo, hot pipe, cold pipe, throttle-body size?
you will get a lot of heat soak at the rolling road with the rad mounted intercooler set up as there is not as much air flowing over them both to get rid of it efficiently, it will be much better on the road as kev says. but still not as good as a bumper mounted set up.
Sorry but thats simply not true:no:
As stated already the apex infront of rad cooler was proven to cool the charge temp to cooler than the air filter intake, this was done on a rolling road.
I was the one who's car this was proven on.
Here's the old attachment
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=3341&d=1056143530
If u get heatsoak on a rolling road id suggest u go to another rolling road as the the rr should have fans blowing air on the front of the car, which would be what would stop u getting heatsoak.
U dont ever want the air to flow over the cooler or rad however, u want it to flow THROUGH both of them.
As already stated also, the most powerful uk CA in the club (Tony's) has always used the infront of rad cooler:)
In general u wanna upscale the pipes gradually for turbulence reasons, the outlet elbowfor the turbo is a 50mm, generally u upscale to 60mm before the intercooler, then run 60mm out of the cooler, changing to 70mm before it hits the TB, or even with a step up at the TB like most (including me) have:)
U could in theory achieve 500bhp through a 2" pipe im sure, but it will be far far easier to do it with a larger one.
The 3" exhaust will help:)
Still running standard cams mate.
As Jezz says the PFC map is very very conservative as standard, its hugely overfueled too, so mapping should help loads
What sizes are each of the pipes you have at the moment? Filter-to-turbo, hot pipe, cold pipe, throttle-body size?
off the top of my head the setup on the last rr day was;
Filter to turbo - 70mm std
hot pipe - 60mm
cold pipe - 55mm
tb - 55mm
All of the above will be changed when i call up to nelly's but will have to think about what sizes to use, see below.....
In general u wanna upscale the pipes gradually for turbulence reasons, the outlet elbowfor the turbo is a 50mm, generally u upscale to 60mm before the intercooler, then run 60mm out of the cooler, changing to 70mm before it hits the TB, or even with a step up at the TB like most (including me) have:)
Interesting, i will have to look into that. I have a 65mm tb to be fitted and was just going to use 3" intake and IC piping with 3" exhaust as i thought it would be the most optimal setup giving least restrictive and best air flow?
But from the above i guess that was wrong and upscaling is a better idea. Thanks for the advice mate, appreciate it :thumbs:
Jezz_S13
24-03-2009, 21:19
Nothing wrong with the Apex in front of rad IC, Jez is still running his, and I'm still running mine, upto around 500 and 600 respectively.
im not debating what you have found at all kev, or the fact that rad mounted ICs are very good. as what your saying is all correct. im just stating the facts that i have found.
i got 35 degrees IAT roughly on the rollers even with a huge fan blowing on the front of the car and with my engine fans on.
yet on the road i get around 15 to 20 degrees IAT.
with my old rad mounted set up the IC was always hot, even though i had just been for a drive then stopped and immediately felt the intercooler (i was testing to see if there was any need to change to a bumper mount set up at the time) it was always a lot warmer than my bumper mount IC is now.
and this will reflect directly on the inlet charge temp.
the RAD mount IC set up will work perfectly well as has been proven hundreds of times. but its a simple fact that the IC will be warmer than an IC that's further away from a large heat source such as the engine and radiator. so will have initially a harder job to cool the inlet charge untill the IC has cooled down. where as in the bumper its cooler to start with.
kev. is that nearly 40 degrees IAT showing on your graph???
Suprmek1
24-03-2009, 22:06
Rad mount intercooler is much better the benifits of less piping and bends are great. when moving we got no heat soak into the intercooler I have checked it with IR heat gun. When we RR the car 2 weeks ago the intake temps were really low and we got 244.6bhp on a stage 1 chip at 12psi :) running on the safe side of rich
thats nice work, what sort of inlet temps were you getting and did it take long for them to cool from stood still temps.
ive shortened a lot of my ic piping now on the RB and found it didnt make much of a difference really
Twin i personally have an 80mm pipe on the afm, graduating down to a 60mm elbow onto the turbo, as i think thats best.
On the inlet side, i personally think it would be better if u stuck to 50-60mm piping rather than going for 75mm, cos its just gonna slam into the 60mm openings of the cooler and create turbulence.
Certainly the fact ur coming out the cooler and scaling down to 55mm wont be helping ur cause mate:)
with my old rad mounted set up the IC was always hot, even though i had just been for a drive then stopped and immediately felt the intercooler (i was testing to see if there was any need to change to a bumper mount set up at the time) it was always a lot warmer than my bumper mount IC is now.
and this will reflect directly on the inlet charge temp.
this is showing u had something wrong, what cooler were u using?
I NEVER ever had anywhere over about 1/3rd on the cooler warm no matter what i done, including sitting in traffic etc.
only time it would get warm was when it was switched off and left after a good shoeing, and even then when turned on would be cold within 30-40 secs.
However saying the front of ur ic feels warmer in bay than it does outside doesnt really mean anything tbh, and doesnt nescessarily mean its got a direct effect on the temps.
the efficiency of the cooler has far more to do with it, u have to remember its getting the same air.... there is no heat soak, as the air is moving the other way......
the RAD mount IC set up will work perfectly well as has been proven hundreds of times. but its a simple fact that the IC will be warmer than an IC that's further away from a large heat source such as the engine and radiator. so will have initially a harder job to cool the inlet charge untill the IC has cooled down. where as in the bumper its cooler to start with.
kev. is that nearly 40 degrees IAT showing on your graph???
Its not a simple fact as i said above, infact its not a fact at all:no:
It would make sence if the air flowed the other way, but it doesnt....
Its 37.4 and it occured when the operator held that rpm forabout 15seconds constant with the t28 that was on boosting i think 18psi while his colleague stood in front of the fan to hold the thermocouple leads that were blowing about (IIRC).
u can see how it dipped quite a bit when he got out the road and the revs were raised again:)
I do believe the one at the top was a true reading though:)
End of the day mate, u have ur beliefs and i and a few others have theirs, but basically as Jezz has said there are several BIG power cars running these coolers, in that position, so that defo aint the problem:thumbs:
As a matter of interest, what inlet temp gauge u using, and whats its sample rate, as i was looking to get a couple myself:)
thats fair enough, i was just questioning your inlet temp as my temp only peaked at 34 degrees to be precise after 2 hours of mapping.
im using the laptop and megatune to get my readings at the moment (not sure on sample rate but its basically instant) but im looking into building a megaview which is a really nice piece of kit that can display most of the megatune settings and readings as well as allowing you to adjust them (not the map though) all through a screen no bigger than a two row calculator screen.
im not sure i agree with you about the direction of the air flowing through the intercooler, surely if the alluminium is hot due to being in a hot engine bay, its going to have a harder job cooling the air that passes through it.
but i will agree to dissagree as this is not a thread about intercooler position.
im going to take your advise though on the intercooler pipework size as i also agree with you that bigger will make life easier for the turbo and engine. my hot side is 2 inch till the inner wing where it goes to 2 1/4 so im going to extend the 2 1/4 right up to the turbo.
im not sure i agree with you about the direction of the air flowing through the intercooler, surely if the alluminium is hot due to being in a hot engine bay, its going to have a harder job cooling the air that passes through it.
but i will agree to dissagree as this is not a thread about intercooler position.
Feel free to discuss away as it's all relevant info to my setup :thumbs:
im not sure i agree with you about the direction of the air flowing through the intercooler, surely if the alluminium is hot due to being in a hot engine bay, its going to have a harder job cooling the air that passes through it.
but i will agree to dissagree as this is not a thread about intercooler position.
With the wording u have there, yes, but thats the problem, your wording, or maybe how u view it.
Why would the intercooler be warm??
Basically take a kitchen fork and attach it to ur house radiator and it will get hot, hold it in front of said radiator and same will happen.
place a fan in front of the fork and have it blowing through the fork and onto the radiator..... fork will stay cold, because there is no heat from the radiator allowed to radiate forward due to the fan blowing it back.
In your engine bay you have a fan running constantly drawing air through the cooler's, and when ur driving, air pressure does it so there is no radiation of heat forward, its always pushed back
very well explained.
but dont forget that most people with a rad mounted set up wont have a viscous fan, and the electric fan will only kick in when the engine gets too hot.
also there is not always air moving through the ran when the car is at slower speeds or stopped. the air would need to be moving very fast to stop a radiator at 100 degrees from transmitting heat to the intercooler, and through the brackets that generally hold both intercooler and rad.
maybe on a track car after a half a lap or so then this wont be a problem at all. im more tallking about a general use car that starts and stops all the time.
thats where the heat soak problem arrises.
Again im having to disagree with u, but maybe this is based on the 200's iv'e worked on ( a few) and maybe the 200's u have worked on in a differant part of the uk work a differant way, but basically i can count on 1 hand the amount of 200's ive worked on who dont have the viscous fan attached, tbh im struggling to think of more than 2:wack:
I would also strongly advise twin to keep it, its a crackin fan, and does a good job:)
If the car is sat in traffic, and the rad is hot enough to radiate heat, it will be hot enough to activate the viscous coupling on the fan, so even on idle the IC should remain cool, always did on mine.
If ur on leccy fans, like u say, it would be more of a problem, however as im now on leccy fans as i went vee mount, and everything around both is big shiney highly conductive aluminium, i should be getting shedloads of heatsoak, but im not.
I will however get more than twin will, because the rad is inclined back so theres more "vertical surface area" to radiate the heat up, and the cooler is right above the rad.....
anyway back to the front mount.
the thermostat opens fully at 82degrees, my fans cut in at 84degrees.
If ur rad gets up to 100degrees, something is wrong, or you have been drifting in 2nd gear for too long :o
The brackets will conduct very little in fact, unless you have both very wide, and very thin material, mine didnt even get hot where they were mounted to the rad, but that was basiaclly cos they were only attached to the top pins of the rad.
I may well be wrong here, but i get the feeling ur thinking that the IC will basically be rubbing up against the rad.... it certainly wasnt on mine, and id assume it wouldnt be on twins.
My rad sat as close as possible to the fan without touching, leaving about a 40-50mm gap, so even radiated heat would go straight up, not out as far as the ic
edit. just looked back through the thread, and tbh twin, u wanna move that rad back a bit mate, though i dont think u would get huge heat soak, i do think u will pick up a bit once the car is shut down, or if u were sat for a long time in traffic.
U could move the cooler forward about 10mm, till it butts up against the slam, and move the rad back about an inch.
I cant say u are getting heatsoak, but its always better to have an air gap mate.....
MD u basing ur theorising on twins pics?
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=42093&stc=1&d=1170789586
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=44360&stc=1&d=1175964533
from my project thread, to show the distance between mine at the time:)
I cant say u are getting heatsoak, but its always better to have an air gap mate.....
MD u basing ur theorising on twins pics?
yes seing as tho this is his project thread :wack:
and from my old set up that i got rid of. all i can remember is that the cooler was definately always warm, where now it is dead cold. :)
i think that problem here is that your basing your findings on a perfect set up where they are a decent space apart and not touching anywhere (like your pictures show), and also where the whole rad and cooler gets a good feed of air flowing over the whole surface of the rad/cooler,
where unfortunately in most set ups there are dead spots where the air does not get to the fins, usually at the top corners due to the shape of the bumper. this is where you will get radiated heat transferring to the IC.
and in many cases that ive seen the rad acctually touches the IC. so gets really bad heat transfer even at speed.
edit. just looked back through the thread, and tbh twin, u wanna move that rad back a bit mate, though i dont think u would get huge heat soak, i do think u will pick up a bit once the car is shut down, or if u were sat for a long time in traffic.
U could move the cooler forward about 10mm, till it butts up against the slam, and move the rad back about an inch.
I cant say u are getting heatsoak, but its always better to have an air gap mate.....
Coolio:thumbs:
I can't move the IC forward anymore as the outlet is right up against the slam panel so much that it cut my first silicon hose until i took a hammer to it.
I can move the rad back and leave about 50mm between it and the cooler. I will be deffo keeping the viscous as it does a good job imo. Rad temp sits at 70 in traffic and 85 after abit of trashing. Would 50mm be enough room to fit leccy fans between the rad and IC by any chance?
If i were to build sides around the cooler and rad so air would be forced to go through the rad, would they conduct much heat from the rad to the cooler to worry about?
btw, did you make up any brackets at the bottom of the rad/cooler to hold them in place or was it just brackets at the top you used?
btw, did you make up any brackets at the bottom of the rad/cooler to hold them in place or was it just brackets at the top you used?
Judging from what they've both said above no; physics-wise if you leave a 1-2mm gap between the plates coming from the IC back towards the rad (rad-side) you won't get any conductive heat-soak and since your viscous is sucking the air back when you're not driving that'll ne negligable anyway.
Have you your undertray in still?
I can move the rad back and leave about 50mm between it and the cooler. I will be deffo keeping the viscous as it does a good job imo. Rad temp sits at 70 in traffic and 85 after abit of trashing. Would 50mm be enough room to fit leccy fans between the rad and IC by any chance?
Depends on the fans; see how thick they are from wherever you're sourcing them (DB Power, ebay, Pug 205 GTi & 306 GTi fans are good alternative I've read somewhere as well & can be picked up for half-nothing)
The gap is *just* enough to fit fans mate.
U wont get any conductivity worth worrying about tbh, but u could put a line of silicon (or an old door seal) at the edge of the rad to null any possible problems.
The cooler should sit in the standard peg holes for the rad, and i did have a little bit of flat bar running between the tc rod holders to locate the rad pins:)
Jezz_S13
27-03-2009, 20:07
but u could put a line of silicon (or an old door seal) at the edge of the rad to null any possible problems.
I'd be very suprised if conductivity from the rad to IC was a notable issue at all.
However the point of isolating them with gloop/foam is a good one, my IC and rad have rubbed/knocked together and has created a tiny crank (and hence leak) in my rad.
With college exams over, i now have time to sort out and finish the car off over the summer depending on weather. First job was to change the manifold gaskets and replace the broken manifold stud in the head, as i thought this was the reason they started to blow straight after being replaced. I had brought the car back to the mechanic that changed them while i was in college, but he had closed up shop and done a runner with my money in his pocket, and also owing alot of other people of money aswell.
ABS bracket cut shorter and welded back together. You can see the mark on the manifold where the bracket used to sit.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0253.jpg
Manifold and turbo assembly removed. Not a hard job but awkward as hell
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1862.jpg
Greeted by the reason for the gaskets blowing and the quality job the last dickhead had done as he never cleaned off the old gaskets before putting it back together
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1871.jpg
Cleaned the face of the manifold, checked it for straightness and replacing the gaskets with some nice metal layered gaskets. I doubled up locking nuts on the turbo to elbow where possible, and put some gungum on the end of the nuts to hopefully stop them coming loose.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1877.jpg
Removed the broken manifold stud and tightening up the new one
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1875.jpg
Tightened up the water hose going from the outside of the turbo to the block before putting on manifold
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1879.jpg
Tightened up the oil feed after the manifold was on
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0243.jpg
Then the water hose from the back of plenum to the inside of the turbo
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0244.jpg
Finally fitted the oil return back into the sump and joined the elbow to downpipe with gungum
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0247.jpg
I'm having trouble bleeding the air out of the system
Jacked the front off the ground
Took the lid off the rad
turned the heat on full, set to windows
ran it for 10 minutes, topping up when necessary
Put lid back on and let cool for 5 minutes
ran for another 10 minutes with heaters on
Still no heat :confused:
I wanted to have a look at the underside of front cross member as i never got round to it when i was cleaning up the underside of the car.
It wasn't too bad considering it had disappeared on my last S13 and one of the most common rust areas. It's still structurally sound with abit of surface rust.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1880.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0226.jpg
Removed the loose rust with a wire brush and drill, and cleaned down with thinners before spraying on direct to rust metal hammerite.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0235.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0228.jpg
CillianS14a
03-07-2009, 22:54
Looks very good Emmett:thumbs:I had a look at the direct to rust spray before, it looks like the way to go, no more using tiny brushes for the hard to reach places:smash::nod:
Did you cover up the ABS unit after you chopped the bracket by the way?
Did you cover up the ABS unit after you chopped the bracket by the way?
I'll be getting a heatsheild made up between the manifold and abs unit to prevent heating the brake fluid or melting wires around that area ect :nod:
Looks very good Emmett:thumbs:I had a look at the direct to rust spray before, it looks like the way to go, no more using tiny brushes for the hard to reach places:smash::nod:
I gave it three good coats. It says it lasts upto five years, time will tell. I would of preferred to have cleaned it up better with an angle grinder before spraying it on but it was broke.
Following the steps of my fellow galwegian, i got round to fitting my ARC stainless steal cold air box :cool:
Abit of messing around with silicone hoses and moving the IC hot pipe got it fitted in the end.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1885.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1886.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1890.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0260.jpg
looks good mate, congrats ;)
Oh very bling! :cool: Nice work! :thumbs:
CillianS14a
09-07-2009, 12:26
i must get polishing mine....yours is way shinier:smash::whip:
Looking very bling though:thumbs:
Thanks :) I need to do something with the power steering pot though, it looks shit beside the new cold air box.
Didn't do much today, bined the dirty, cracked, bodged up expansion tank
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1898.jpg
And replaced it with a circuit sports overflow tank
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1892.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1893.jpg
Removed the spoiler and wiper. Bridged holes with fibleglass and covered with filler mixed up with alot of hardener to help stop it from cracking. Underneath the spoiler there was loads of dents on the lid when it was removed, so i gave all of this a skim of filler.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0214.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0212.jpg
Sprayed with 2K primmer and left for a few days to see if there is any mapping.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0256-1.jpg
Nice project mate, keep it up :thumbs:
Looking good mate. Well done and top effort!
Cheers Aj
Thanks lads :thumbs: There has being alot of set backs, head aches and sleepless nights along the way, but with abit of luck it will get there in the end. Not to mention my bad luck which lead to this project with B.E failure, timing belt snapping, sump plug falling off, a few blown turbo's and my first S13 that i had to break because of rust. The joys of it all :wack:
356mm 8 pot ksport kit. The main reason for choosing such large rotors and calipers is that is that the kit runs at much lower temperature which results in much less pad wear on trackdays. If using S14 calipers on trackdays and having to keep replacing Ferodo DS2500 pads, the money saved in pads cost should go along way paying for the kit. Cooler pads, longer life, better for the pocket in the long run, made since to me anyways.
They probably are on the over spec'd side, but imo there is no harm in having an over spec brake system, as it the most important system and mod i'll do on the car. I have yet to see someone that has purchased the 356mm kit saying it was a waste of money, and wished they hadn't bothered
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1835.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0215.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0218.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1855.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1851-1.jpg
Unfortuately after fitting the brake kit the rotor was not dead on centre in the caliper pathway. There was 2mm more room on the outside of the rotor compared to the inside. This caused the pad to be constantly rubbing of the rotor and the wheel cound not rotate freely.
I took the kit off again trying to identify the problem. I cleaned down the hub again and put it back together but it made no difference. I tried shimming the caliper by putting a washer between the mounting bracket and the hub but that only increased the distance by moving the caliper out further. The only way to get the rotor in the centre of the caliper pathway was to mill 1mm off the caliper bracket.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0224.jpg
I contacted Apex about the situation on the 26th June. I gave them the part number off the bell and caliper bracket. The part number off the caliper bracket was for an S14 and they had no other S13 brackets in stock. On 29th June, they had still no word from Ksport but were looking at other options. (milling S14 brackets)
3rd July, Apex's machine shop had quoted them £50 to do the brackets. That was stopped because Apex could not justify the cost as i bought the kit on group buy. Ksport had said they would send the brackets in the next shipment to apex, which would "hopefully" be in a couple of weeks. I then explained to apex that imo it was unacceptable that they would think it was ok for me to have to wait this long for the brackets, and this was a massive inconvenience for me.
8th July, Ksport were looking into a faster delivery. Errrmmm, put them in a box addressed to apex and post them and stop wasting time :wack:
10th July, Ksport have still not posted the brackets, but will be shipping them today, the 13th July :) :)
Finally after 17 days of waiting, the correct brackets are on there way to apex. Hopefully they will be with me soon.
Hope this brake fiasco gets sorted so the project can move on.
For what its worth, Apex are generally very good and im sure they will do their best to get things sorted for you.
Keep up the good work bud :)
Hey mate, id definately be removing the wing mount, cos ur restricting the amount of air getting to the air filter with it still there.
also the expansion bottle u have looks like its made for a radiator cap less radiator, ie it looks like a pressure cap, so u wont be able to suck water back in with it in my understanding.
Hey mate, id definately be removing the wing mount, cos ur restricting the amount of air getting to the air filter with it still there.
also the expansion bottle u have looks like its made for a radiator cap less radiator, ie it looks like a pressure cap, so u wont be able to suck water back in with it in my understanding.
wing mount = me being lazy bastid. i'll pull it out before putting front bumper back on :thumbs:
From looking at the expansion tank it doesn't look like it's a pressurised setup as the spout at the top vents to atmosphere like the oem tank. Wouldn't this stop it from being pressurised :confused:
I had read about removing a spring from the lid or drilling a hole in the tank, but with the spout at the top, i thought it was fine :confused:
The spout looks really like the one on the side of ur rad cap doesnt it......;)
Yeah if u remove the sprang from the expansion tank rad cap that should allow air in mate:)
The spout looks really like the one on the side of ur rad cap doesnt it......;)
Yeah if u remove the sprang from the expansion tank rad cap that should allow air in mate:)
Maybe it's late and i'm missing something, but air can enter and exit through the top spout at all times. This will allow water flow in and out from the spout at the bottom of the tank. The lid doesn't ever seal the top spout.
The do appreciate you pointing out if i'm going wrong somewhere, and apologise if i'm being slow, but i fail to see how the tank is pressurised if air can freely enter and leave via the top spout.
Pics say more then words. Basically my understanding is the lid only seals the top ring, but air can still enter and leave through the spout which will allow water flow in and out through the spout at the bottom of the tank.
Thanks for the help Kev :thumbs:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1924.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1925.jpg
Yeah mate, pics make it clear.
with the cap in place it looks like a pressurised cap, but as u have shown with ur pic, it doesnt have the plunger that a rad cap has:thumbs:
So ur totally right mate, though it looks like a pressurised cap its not :)
gofaster_s13
15-07-2009, 08:37
Following the steps of my fellow galwegian, i got round to fitting my ARC stainless steal cold air box :cool:
Abit of messing around with silicone hoses and moving the IC hot pipe got it fitted in the end.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1885.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1886.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1890.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0260.jpg
Where did you get the cold air box, looks the job:thumbs::thumbs:
Still waiting from an update from apex. Last i heard the brackets were not sent by ksport on the monday, so now apex have decided to modify S14 brackets.
Where did you get the cold air box, looks the job:thumbs::thumbs:
In the for sale section. Supposedly silly expensive new. I had a few pm's about it, i might have a batch coming soon lol :D
Yeah mate, pics make it clear.
with the cap in place it looks like a pressurised cap, but as u have shown with ur pic, it doesnt have the plunger that a rad cap has:thumbs:
So ur totally right mate, though it looks like a pressurised cap its not :)
Coolio.
Thanks for the advice though mate incase it was a pressurised setup :thumbs:
Slowly making progress with spraying the car, mainly because i have had no brakes since fitting the ksports last month. I have received modified S14 brackets from apex, i will be fitting them tuesday.
Paint is alot more expensive then i expected, with needing 2K primer & hardener, 2K colour, hardener & thinners, metallic basecoat, 2K clearcoat & hardener and standard thinners for cleaning the spraygun and pot :eek:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/023-1.jpg
Got a spraygun, air pressure regulator, moisture extractor and used my polisher for sanding
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/036.jpg
I used 80’s grade on the filler, and when I was happy with the filling job I used 500’s before priming
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1929.jpg
Once primed I used 1000’s wet and dry used wet before spraying the colour on
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1930.jpg
Sprayed 2 full coats and 1 mist coat of basecoat on
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0278.jpg
Then sprayed 3 coats of clearcoat. Going to wait a few days of air drying till it's fully cured before wet sanding the dirt/orange peel out of the clearcoat with 1500's wet and dry. Then i'll polish out the scratches with G10. It's not too bad for first time not using rattle cans, but it should polish up nicely. It will be good enough for a track toy.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/030.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/009-1.jpg
Where'd you read up on how to do all that? Good job dude! :nod:
CillianS14a
20-07-2009, 00:31
That looks really good Emmett, keep us updated:nod: I'm hoping to respray my bumpers next year so i'll be looking for advice:thumbs:
Where'd you read up on how to do all that? Good job dude! :nod:
Good advice from petrol and tall paul on here. Messed about with rattle cans before and lots of trial and error. The amount of stupid mistakes i've made is making it very time consuming and could be loads better tbh. Most of the work is in the prep, and im afraid i don't have anough patience that's needed to get it perfect.
That looks really good Emmett, keep us updated:nod: I'm hoping to respray my bumpers next year so i'll be looking for advice:thumbs:
Bring it to a professional :wack: Probably wouldn't cost that much extra just to do the bumpers, and the finish will probably be way better.
What condition is the paint in, is it just swirl marks, fading or shallow scratches? They might polish out with some cutting compound, save you a spray job unless there is scratches that are gone through a layer or more of paint that will require filling and spraying.
Apex send me modified S14 ksport brackets to try and get the rotors in the centre of the caliper pathway.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0273-1.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0277-1.jpg
I picked up this tool which is handy for pushing back the pistons in the calipers with the bleed nipples open.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_1936-1.jpg
With the modified brackets fitted the discs now fit better in the centre of the caliper. It's not perfect though as the pads are still constantly rubbing off the discs but not as tight as before. I guess the modified brackets are not exactly within tolerence of the proper S13 bracket for the kit.
The kit assembled
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0220-1.jpg
Perfect fit with the wheels, fill them out nicely :cool:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0307.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0308.jpg
Got the system bleed and breather pipes back together. Next to do is sort out that restrictive cold pipe, and try and free up some more ca powaz :D
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0303.jpg
Awesome work mate. Glad to hear you got your brakes on and semi sorted!
Cheers Aj
Mmmm, blingin' goodness! :cool: And I have to say it again: those brakes are bloody massive! :eek: Quick one: are the grooves not supposed to be directioned the other way to disperse the brake dust?
Thanks Aj, hopefully after some bedding in they will work better. At least now i can drive the car again. It was a pain in the ass not being able to get jobs i wanted done on the car for the last month.
Mmmm, blingin' goodness! :cool: And I have to say it again: those brakes are bloody massive! :eek: Quick one: are the grooves not supposed to be directioned the other way to disperse the brake dust?
That's the direction ksport and AP say to put them. Something to do with cooling if i remember correctly.
just after reading this the whole way though, bloody well set up car youve got there :notworthy
best of luck getting that last few bits sorted :thumbs:
yeah they are the right way for best braking.
the other way makes em quieter and wear less, but the way u have them is better for braking:)
just after reading this the whole way though, bloody well set up car youve got there :notworthy
best of luck getting that last few bits sorted :thumbs:
Thanks man, just can't wait until it's ready to get the map finished off and get her out on track. Exhaust, cams, a lick of paint and it should be there at long last.
Changed the small cold pipe for a much larger 76mm pipe, because it's probably the main reason for strangling power, it's stupidly restrictive, especially at the bend. Hopefully the larger pipework will flow more volume of air, which should increase the turbo spool up time
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0313.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0311.jpg
Put when it came to fitting it, i probably found the reason why the origional cold pipe was so small. With the larger pipe the bonnet wouldn't close.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0315.jpg
Cut some off the pipe where it enter's the plenum and found a place selling decent length silicon hoses, so i could get it fitted behind the top rad hose and have enough room to close the bonnet.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0321.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0322.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0324.jpg
nice work emmett keep it up glad to see u got some way sorted with the brakes.are they going to send u out the correct brackets at some stage?
Hey mate if u shove the battery over more u will be able to get the 90deg elbow on to come straight out from the cooler, and the pipe will lie more like at the side of the rad, rather than on top., this is what i had to do with mine.
I also cut about an inch off the pipe so the bend was closer to the cooler, again to reduce height.
Kev
The dents on the quarter panel creased when they were pushed out so had to get a skim of filler.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/006-3.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/008-1.jpg
Filled and primed
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/PICT0020.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/PICT0021.jpg
I got a new gravity feed spray gun with a 1.4mm tip for spraying the basecoat and clearcoat. I found it way better to use and got a more even finish compared to using the suction feed gun, which i'll only use now for spraying on primer. I could use less pressure too, which suited me better using a small compressor.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/PICT0046.jpg
Windows and engine bay all covered up
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/PICT0034.jpg
Flatted the whole car back with 800 wet and dry used wet
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/PICT0037.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/PICT0031-1.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/PICT0027.jpg
Going to spray the basecoat and clearcoat tomorrow, and then will be left for a few days air drying to fully cure before flatting and mopping.
CillianS14a
11-09-2009, 00:23
Looks class emmett:nod: fancy doin my bumper for me?:D Got quoted around 160 from that higgins place today, i'd rather not paint it than pay that:wack:
Looks the job dude! :thumbs:
Joematose
14-09-2009, 15:45
Fair play man,
no small job tackling a full car respray like that :notworthy
I've a bootlid that could do with a spray when you've cillians bumper done :D
someones been busy :D fair play for spraying it yourself dude. thats something id love to be able to have a go at but i havent the patience to try lol
any more news on your brakes?
The sprayjob is 80% finished. To be honest im not to happy with the way it came out, so have a lack of motovation to get it finished. It's rough enough being honest, but for my first time, i can't complain. I didn't spray on enough clearcoat so when i flatted the orange peel out and polished out the scratch marks i've gone through on alot of places. There is also a few imperfections that could do with flatting and polishing but there is not enough clearcoat sprayed on to get them out. On the other hand i always wanted to change the colour but kept it the same for my first spray job, but it will be on the cards for next summer. At the end of the day, this will mainly be a trackcar, so it's good enough for that.
Another bad decision i made was trying to use the same gun for the basecoat and clearcoat. Rushing to get it clean while the basecoat flashed off just made extra work and not enough time which lead to a few **** ups. Dust was another problem. Even after putting down plastic sheets on the floor and wetting the walls, it wasn't enough. Finally, flatting a whole car before spraying, and then having to flat again three times with 1000's upto 3000's all by hand really does test ones patience. A dual action sander is needed and would make life so much easier. I never imagened how much work is envolved in spraying a car. Spraying is the easy part, it's all the work preping, flatting and polishing that takes time, although as i said, a d.a sander would have saved loads.
I have learned loads from my mistakes, so hopefully next summer will achieve better results. I don't know will i go metallic again, as 2k solid paint is much less work. Anyway's, a few pics of how it is at the moment.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/PICT0050.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/PICT0058-1.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_2020.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_2019.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_2023.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_2018.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/100_2016.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0357.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0360.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb115/twinpram/000_0361.jpg
top job mate! i tell you id be happy with that! :nod: i tried painting my front bumper and side skirts with rattle cans, no patience and so f*cked it up! keep up the good work :thumbs:
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