View Full Version : Scougars S13 project.
After an absence of about 15 months I have finally managed to get another 200sx. Rather than being a nice modern S14a with 280bhp, I've gone for the cheaper thrills S13 pre-face lift option, in silver :thumbs:
The car is a 1989 UK car that has been sitting for a year in the open, so I expect there to a rust taken hold in certain areas. Before sitting it was a very nice car and pretty much rust free in all the nasty areas.
Car car has so far:
Metal air filter (to be replaced with Apexi at some point).
Sard R2D2 dump valve.
HD Boost valve.
HD Stage 1 ECU (to be fitted).
Walbro fuel pump.
Apex Stainless Steel exhaust.
Autogauge boost gauge in A pillar mount.
Rear Locking Collars.
HKS turbo Timer (doesn't work for some reason?).
Just before being taken off the road had all Turbo gaskets done (genuine Nissan parts) .
Recent new discs all round.
New pads all round (in box at the moment).
I will get pictures up when I can take some decent ones, just the weather has been so bad haven't had a chance yet.
Jobs done so far:
Retightened wheel nuts as one wheel tried to escape!
Cleaned car 3 times as it was drenched in crap and leaves.
Cleaned engine bay throughly.
Fixed boost gauge light.
Jobs to do:
Replace 1 disk and all pads.
Sort out why the ABS light is on.
Fix why fuel cut is coming in.
Once fuel cut prob sorted put in the HD stage 1 ECU I have.
Clean interior throughly.
New oil and filter.
New coolant.
Check and sort out rust anywhere it can be found.
Will edit/add to this thread as I can.
Last time I spent Three thousand in a year on the S14a on mods. This year, I plan on doing it on a much tighter budget if possible. Will prob mean 2nd hand coil-overs and other 2nd hand bits.
EDIT: Added pics: In order (First 2 from when Teggers owned it 1.5 years ago, the last 3 are supplied by Kev the guy I bought it off, in those it had been standing for a year).
Matthew
Good luck mate! I'll be keeping a close eye on this thread! ;)
nitrodave
11-03-2008, 09:38
Hi matt,
interestred to see pictures of your beast. I see you're taking a similar route to me in that it's a project on a budget. holdng out and waiting for the right parts at the right prices really pays off! a lot can be achieved with less than £1000.
looking forward to seeing more matey!
ferretca18
11-03-2008, 09:52
cant wait to see the pics of her all nice and clean! you did a good job with the 14a so cant wait! spanking buy for the money mate:thumbs:
Clean also means revealing the rust lol.
I would point out that my S14a was the result of not just me, but a lot of help from members : Mammoth, Channie, Wolfe, Melissa (my wife).
Hoping this will be a great S13 as long as we have the money it will get new bits :D (Including a subtle bodykit in the future).
Matthew
nitrodave
11-03-2008, 10:44
dont rush it though mate, enjoy each mod you do before moving on to the next one.
full exhaust, air filter and suspension were some of my first mods and improved the car loads. i also really like a smaller steering wheel, gives a more precise and direct feel to the steering - good value upgrades :)
Car already has:
Apex Exhaust
Boost Valve
Air filter
Lowered suspension (not coil-overs :( )
Rear locking collars.
R2D2 dump valve.
Boost gauge
HD stage 1 ecu (Not currently fitted)
Spark plugs 1 grade colder
Aftermarket alloys (no idea what they are).
Everything else pretty much standard. Not sure on first mod, but maybe steering/suspension/coil-overs.
Matthew
I've gone for the cheaper thrills S13 pre-face lift option, in silver :thumbs:
My new signature. S13 cheaper? Wohoo be on the wacky backy i see!
Will watch this thread to see the fun of the S13 release itself.
lol.. I was implying that the s13 was cheaper than the s14a that I had previously, not that the pre-facelift car was cheaper than a facelift one :)
Those pics were with camera phone above, and very quick as was on way out the door (I was in the car taking the 2nd shot lol).
Matthew
nitrodave
11-03-2008, 14:44
paint the roof black! lloks good matt
Doesn't looks too bad at all, I've always liked the baby blue colour, and the wheels suit it well :)
Good luck bud, will be good to see what you do to it, havent had mine a year yet but alots been done, but just about half way now :wack:
Will be interesting to see it at a meet :thumbs:
OK, as mentioned I have polished the exhaust (looks spanking now!) and my wife and I removed the majority of the matt black tint that was on the rear lights. Looks 10 times better now (See Rear picture a few posts above).
Not the greatest picture of how the lights are now as I had just done the final rinse with hot soapy water to ensure no remaining fake nail remover was left on the lights or the paintwork. The masking tape was used to protect the paint work and placed around the edge of the lights as was not certain how to remove the rear lights :(
We also had a go at trying to do the ABS diagnosis but couldn't seem to get the ABS light to flash more than once so couldn't confirm if we had the right error code. On the plus side the back seat is now in the garage so more weight saved! lol
EDIT: Point to note, even after a year of sitting the exhaust basically has NO corrosion on it. The ebay one I had on the s14a was corroding after a few months!
Matthew
ferretca18
11-03-2008, 20:53
hay mate, are you going to be using this as a daily drive or as a track car? i only say as after having my rear stripped (oooh'er! lol) and replacing it made little difference to the overall handling but a HUGE difference to the noise levels. (then again i was running on coilovers) the only real difference i noticed was that with the rear interior in i had the occasional scrubbing:thumbs:
looks a million times better now shes clean:)
Nah, was just messing about stripping out ;) It will be a daily driver, as the clio just wasn't doing it for me. Seem a more relaxed drive than the coil-over'd s14a I had :D Seems pretty tame, no attempt even on wet road of the back end breaking loose.
Still have a boost issue as mentioned elsewhere, wonder if the actuator is dieing/jamming or the wastegate perhaps.
Matthew
EDIT: Point to note, even after a year of sitting the exhaust basically has NO corrosion on it. The ebay one I had on the s14a was corroding after a few months!
Matthew
Apex SS exhaust :Plug: It was cleaned regularly from new (inc. metal polish!) so it should stay good for some time yet!
Only did the back box, but will eventually polish up the rest of the exhaust when I get it on stands/ramps. Kinda glad I didn't purchase this in the depths of winter which means thankfully I avoid the worst of salt on the roads etc, and it gives me a chance to strip back and protect any potential nasty areas :)
Also added some pics at the start of the thread to show initial condition I bought it in, and the pictures you supplied Teggers :)
Matthew
Good work, looks a lot better:)
That tailgate doesn't look like it's got long to live though :whip:
Good work, looks a lot better:)
That tailgate doesn't look like it's got long to live though :whip:
:) Soon as I can sort it I will. That or get a replacement in FRP (as carbon is so darn expensive :( ). It needs sanding down in other areas as well if I do decide to repair it, and the spolier is far from being smooth.
Matthew
the spolier is far from being smooth.
IMO you should ditch the spoiler, even if you replace it with a different one ultimately, it's a nasty sponge thing and will just hug water to your tailgate and rust it out :nod:
Was thinking of removing it, but would need a decent job of either welding up the holes (risk of warping?) or a filler job that won't sag, crack or fall out.
Matthew
nitrodave
12-03-2008, 09:35
car is looking good already! nice job on the exhaust also, looks great. Agree with Pete too, ditch the nasty sponge spoiler. looks better without IMO
Any tips on filling holes permantly though? (might eventually go with BGW, but only when I have a bodykit on, or if I get probs with back end at motorway speeds.
Matthew
nitrodave
12-03-2008, 09:50
see my project thread matt, i used meshing and a fibreglass paste from underneath and ontop and has proven to be solid so far... and i filled some pretty big holes with it too. i then filled over the top with body filler and used an electric sander to flatten it all back, came out looking pretty good. you'll also see how easy it was to fit an s14 spoler onto an s13 in there ;)
http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=282925&highlight=mega+budget+s13
Ah yes, I now remember your thread :) Great project :)
EDIT: MOT arranged for tuesday the 18th March. So jobs todo by Monday night (working all weekend :():
1) Fit 1 new disk
2) Fit all new pads
3) Sort overboosting issue
4) Fix front drivers side abs sensor (hopefully just needs a clean! if not nice £280(?) bill for a new one :(
Matthew
Boost issue now sorted. In the end it meant removing the manual boost controller and running directly to actuator unfortunately. I had bought some PTFE tape and sealed the threads on the MBC, and wound it out as far as I dare, (I could have gone out a little further), but it was still displaying the symptoms of boosting to 15/16 psi then fuel cut, so rather than waste time and the neighbours patience last night, I just removed the MBC. The car now runs an absolute max of 12psi. First gear appears to be 9/10 psi, 2nd gear 9-11, 3rd upwards runs 10-12 psi. (I will revisit the boost valve when I have more light and time when I fit the HD stage 1 chip however).
The car is still feels "hesitant" but drives fine and goes well and you can put foot to the floor without fear of fuel cutting.
Now... tonight I tackle brake disk and brake pads :)
Matthew
Glad you got that sorted Matt. Looking forward to seeing your progress at the next meet!
OK, managed to do the brake pads and the disk tonight (hurt back trying to undo one of the caliper carrier bolts :(). So fronts all sorted.
Only problem now is that I've discovered the sills/floorpan near the front jacking point are not exactly in mint condition. In fact they are pretty bad. On the drivers side I had a rusty hole behind the sill, so that will at least need a patch. I dare not have a look to much, but will get it all sorted when the true extent is discovered at the MOT on tuesday. It is not gonna be pretty.
A lot can happen even to 'mint' sills after a year of sitting still in the open. Pretty disappointed, but I guess that is S13 ownership and I need to get used to it :(
Matthew
keep your chin up fella,now your an s13 owner you cant get down about a little tinworm! its to be expected:nod: you just have to deal with it,were made of stronger stuff than those s14 owners :thumbs: :wack: keep up the good work.
john tunner 123
15-03-2008, 14:28
dont let a bit of rust get you down ive got loads to do my self it will be worth it in the end . just carnt wait for better weather as kingj says chin up.
just make sure you or they cout out the rust rather than just patching it mate, well worth the extra work in the long run
The floor pans look ok to me, it just seems to be the areas just either side of the join that have suffered. A competent welder should have no trouble with it :)
Progress today> I have been out all day paintball umpiring, but took a few mins after dinner to look at the turbo timer and why it wasn't working at all. The earth was not hooked upto a proper earthing point, and that was the only thing stopping it working. So now have a fully functioning HKS turbo timer :D Not sure if it is ok for the MOT though.. will ask in another thread.
I won't let the tinworm get me down :D
Matthew
Matt, can you not turn your tt off and leave it off till your MOT is done.
tts are fine for mot, its only the police that dont like them,
but you can just turn it off
Yeah I can turn it off :)
Matthew
Was thinking of removing it, but would need a decent job of either welding up the holes (risk of warping?) or a filler job that won't sag, crack or fall out.
Matthew
I filled the holes in my s13 tailgate with fibreglass :nod: It was suggested that it might crack or fall out. 18 months down the like line though... and many trips to Tesco with the missus slamming the tailgate :smash: but it's been OK :thumbs:
Fibreglass FTW :nod::thumbs:
I filled the holes in my s13 tailgate with fibreglass :nod: It was suggested that it might crack or fall out. 18 months down the like line though... and many trips to Tesco with the missus slamming the tailgate :smash: but it's been OK :thumbs:
Fibreglass FTW :nod::thumbs:
I am......... ashamed. You used fibreglass!?!? :whip: :cry:
I will take a read of your S13 thread as I've only read your S14a thread in depth so far and just speed read through the 13's.
MOT Tomorrow (tuesday):)
Matthew
Page 8 ;)
Good luck with the MOT :thumbs:
Car in for MOT today.
1) I took all the instrument cluster out and went to do the battery to ABS light mod, and had a change of heart, and decided I really should be doing it properly. So put it all back and I know it will fail on that, but am hopefully getting some hubs to swap over that have known good sensors in (only need 1). Prob for the best, as I locked up slightly twice when two people tried pulling out on me this morning!
2) Will defo need welding around front sills. Not sure what other welding will need doing.
3) Went to check rear sills and a bolt fell off!. Thankfully this was on the thin ruler sized piece of metal that bolts onto the bottom subframe bushes near the rear of the sill, so is easily replacable. Should fail on that I would expect.
4) Who knows what else.
Something tells me this car isn't gonna be cheap to keep going :(
Matthew
I don't think any 200 owner on here thinks that their car is cheap to keep going LOL!!! They are really a bit money pit!!! Good luck with the MOT
Spent 3K on my car in 1 year last time, but that was all on mods or upgrading old parts. This time, it will be money just going on replacing knackered random bits... it feels... painful somehow.
EDIT: A few pics I took on 120 acres of private land. Yes it is on a very lame mobile phone sorry.
http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=53054&stc=1&d=1205850735
http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=53055&stc=1&d=1205850735
http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=53056&stc=1&d=1205850735
Matthew
Um.. s***!
Just come back from MOT. Apparently... the front end is 'rotten'. Advice is don't hit too many potholes as it might collapse!
2 failure sheets. Got to go down and collect it, but obviously more than a little concerned about what I am going to find on the sheets.
Matthew
ferretca18
18-03-2008, 15:09
:( doesnt sound good mate, unless its just sills and the front cross member! easy bits to replace mate. hopefully it sounds a lot worse than it is!
lol, any good at welding ferret? ;) I hope to hell it is just that!
It was almost 2 pages on mot sheet for my brakes on the clio, so hopefully it is better than it sounds! It does however sound bloody expensive.
I remember having a guy seam weld 2 new floor pans, all sills, inner wings, outer wings, front panel etc onto my mini and that only cost me about £180 as we cut the floors etc out. But I am beginning to wonder how much nowadays this car will cost me :(
The wonders of: the s13 was good last year... how far that doesn't go.
Matthew
nitrodave
18-03-2008, 15:36
no matter what matt, it can be fixed... it wont happen instantly, but you'll find someone who can do you a good deal on welding. i got shed loads done to mine last MOT, both front turrets, both chassis rails, both sills, floor pan, and inside the wheel arches where the brake lines fed in to the engine bay... plus a bit more and it set me back £300 (cash deal). could have probably got it cheaper if my mate wasnt away and i was so keen to get it on the road.
if you fancy a trip to north london i know some good welders that'll do you a similar deal :)
interested to hear what else it could have failed on
Thanks for the positive comments Dave :) It is just a LOT worse than I was expecting given that it was in supposed good condition only a year and a half ago. Brake pipes and that I except but the extent of the corrosion has really shocked me. At least it means i'm likely to upgrade some bits lol.
On the plus side... it passed on emissions :D
CO 1.565 % (max 3,500)
HC 149 (max 1200)
Full List (as detailed on sheet).
001 - Nearside front (split) windscreen wiper does not clear the windscreen effectively [8.2.2]
002 - Front (not on front off car) registration plate not fixed vertically, or as close to vertical as is reasonably practical [6.3.2c]
003 - Offside rear registration plate lamp not working [1.1.5c]
004- Nearside front headlamp aim too high [1.6] (Comment on sheet: "Miles out")
005 - Offside front (on to caliper) brake hose leaking [3.6.A.1]
006- Nearside rear upper (marked brake pipe excessively corroded [3.6.B.2c]
007 - Offside rear (as above) brake pipe excessively corroded [3.6.B.2c]
008 - Offside outer rear front constant velocity joint gaiter split [2.5.C.1a]
009 -Offside inner rear (1/4 sill) body has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings [6.1.3]
010 - Offside front (floor to sill) body has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings [6.1.3]
011 - Offisde outer front (sill) body has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strenght within 30cm of the body mountings [6.1.3]
012 - Nearside (sill) body has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strenght within 30cm of the body mountings [6.1.3]
013 - Offside innter front (chassis/ inner arch) body has unsatisfactory modification, seriously affecting its strenght within 30cm of the body mountings [6.1.3]
014 - Offisde innter front (floor / chassis) body has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strenght within 30cm of the body mountings [6.1.3]
So... not good, but fixable. Just the cost is worrying me a little. When i got to the test station before handing over the keys, the door creaked a bit when opening it. I hope the sill isn't so buggered??!
http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=53098&stc=1&d=1205874803
http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=53099&stc=1&d=1205874803
http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=53100&stc=1&d=1205874803
http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=53102&stc=1&d=1205874803
http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=53103&stc=1&d=1205874803
Matthew
On the plus side as well. They didn't even notice the ABS light!?!?!?
http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=53104&stc=1&d=1205874778
http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=53105&stc=1&d=1205874739
Matthew
Don't look that bad to me mate! A little welding and she'll be all good.
Ivan
ferretca18
18-03-2008, 20:37
thats not all that bad mate, the stuff on the underside (the inner sill) can just be plated over, easy peasy. i think the worst bit is the outer sill where the 2 sills meet (this is a common place to go) id say the cheapest option is to get some 180 sills, cut out the rot and plate it, treat it all and underseal it, then smack the sills on over the top. as that would most probably get that done a LOT cheaper than getting all the sill colour matched:thumbs:
oh and i can weld, just dont have any welding gear (and id need a week or so of practice before i touched anyone elses car)
Stuffing
18-03-2008, 20:41
I hate seeing pics like those, but at ferret said, in comparisson to other, it doesn't look too bad at all...
Good luck with getting it sorted! :)
nitrodave
18-03-2008, 23:05
thats not bad at all mate. brakes sound like they need more attention though
Brakes lines don't worry me, as that is all replacable and doesn't affect the integrity of the car as such. The brake pipes I may see if it is cheaper to upgrade the lines to braided type rather than 'wasting' money on rubber. My only concern there is that if I uprate the calipers (to say... s14 calipers), I'll have to get a different set of braided lines again doh.
Ferret, any advice on where to get the 180 sills from cheaply? Also, is there any reason you stated 180 sills instead of 200 sills?
Glad you guys don't think it is so bad. Melissa is obviously worried (we had a good look last night), and I am a pretty gutted. Bear in mind that I hadn't taken a hammer or screwdriver to it before hand so I was unable to see the extent of of any bubbling etc.
Matthew
Thanks for the positive comments Dave :) It is just a LOT worse than I was expecting given that it was in supposed good condition only a year and a half ago.
It was.... I'm honestly shocked at how much work needs doing! I had the car checked out when I bought it and then again before I sold it. Both times the mechanic commented on how good the chassis and sills were so to best of my belief, the car was sound and I sold it in good faith based of the mechanics professional views.
Think he means 180 side skirts, the abs plastic ones.
The 180sx often had nice looking skirts, not too big
Usually go for between 100-150 quid on egay etc.
You can plate up the sills and just hide them under the skirts, its prob what i'll do as I dont see the point in getting it all professionally painted up
Teggers> It happens, and it is no reflection on you or Kevin. It sat for a year, but I had no idea the corrosion would set in quite like this! I am just gutted really. It is my fault for assuming they would still be ok. The car looks to have taken a beating in certain areas over the time its been out in the rain. I think it may be that it was sat up during the winter so it already had road salt on it whilst it sat.
TomB> Cool, thanks for clarification. I thought he meant 180 sills were better or something lol. I do plan to put a kit on the car, so this may mean this gets done earlier than intended to be honest, so patches may do ok as long as they are robust and will last.
The front bumper isn't in the best shape so it might be worthwhile changing it anyway, as it has already had a repair on the drivers side front corner.
Matthew
If there's anything I can do to help though (mind you, I'll happily help out anyone who asks/needs it!) I know a guy who may have some spares as he's re-building an S13 at the moment.
I'd only like help for helps sake, not because you may feel guilty (and you have no reason to, so stop being a tart!). Only things i'd need at the moment would be the things listed above (good metal brake lines, rubber brake hoses.) Don't you live in Exeter anyway, so it would be a bit hard to help out? Actually I live in a tiny village that is about 30-40 min journey from plymouth by car so anyone helping me would be inconvienent :(
Sure it will eventually pan out ok, will just take more time, and a lot more time of me taking the bus on the 50 minute journey lol.
Matthew
nitrodave
19-03-2008, 10:44
patch up the sills and dont worry too much about how it looks, they're so low down and tucked uner the car you'd hardly notice any patches and mis-matched paint. Sounds like you could have it road legal within a couple of weeks though.
I'd only like help for helps sake, not because you may feel guilty (and you have no reason to, so stop being a tart!). Only things i'd need at the moment would be the things listed above (good metal brake lines, rubber brake hoses.) Don't you live in Exeter anyway, so it would be a bit hard to help out? Actually I live in a tiny village that is about 30-40 min journey from plymouth by car so anyone helping me would be inconvienent :(
Sure it will eventually pan out ok, will just take more time, and a lot more time of me taking the bus on the 50 minute journey lol.
Matthew
Me? Tart? :ghey: only a little bit... I like helping people out (currently lent my garage to a mate who's breaking a car) just because I like being helpful. Anyway, its nice to get out of the house on days off and chat to people with similar interests - Bex doesn't like it when I talk cars at her - she loves driving it but doesn't like helping me work on it or talking about it.
Might be useful to have a bigger place if I ever manage to get a body kit and attempt to fit it, but till then I think the drive and garage will do. (garage is pretty narrow though :()
Your welcome anytime to come look/help/chat/laugh at me (although this is normally Wolfe's role ;)). Since I moved out of Plymouth I hardly see anyone anymore d'oh!
So plan is.. wait till Monday, call chap about welding and see what he can do. All going well I'll have that sorted and move onto sorting out the brake lines etc.
Matthew
semtex 360
19-03-2008, 11:37
Scouger, I dont know if it's any help to you but,
I bought a gold 200sx s13 just before chrimbo, Me and a mate have stripped it for all the bits we wanted.
The chassis is solid, it had been waxoiled a couple of times and was to good to break really, but I broke it anyway.
If you'd be interested give me a call,
Semtex
07504817749
ferretca18
19-03-2008, 11:43
Think he means 180 side skirts, the abs plastic ones.
The 180sx often had nice looking skirts, not too big
Usually go for between 100-150 quid on egay etc.
You can plate up the sills and just hide them under the skirts, its prob what i'll do as I dont see the point in getting it all professionally painted up
dammit, lol yea sorry mate, thats what i meant. BUT if you wanna get some sills ive got an address of the place i got mine, the are the full rear section and not the front tho.. ill dig out the link for you.
ferretca18
19-03-2008, 11:50
J.D.G Panels - specialist panel makers.
01723 373956
07946 673948
Here you go mate, they work out at £55 each (as opposed to nissans £95 each)
I got some for my old s13 but never got round to fitting them. apparently they need a little bit of work to fit but nothing major, plus you can just trim them to the bits you need for patching (if your'e gonna use skirts to hide it looking patched, this will save a HUGE ammount:)):thumbs:
Sweet, need to do mine soon.
Thanks ferret
So plan is.. wait till Monday, call chap about welding and see what he can do.
Might want to wait until Tuesday, Monday being a bank holiday ;)
It's ok, he mentioned calling him on Monday night :) He is a stock car racer, and his day job is prison guard, so it isn't his business welding as such, just he does do welding since he has the skills.
Matthew
Car was taken over to Dartmoor Prison last night and welding/repair will commence tonight. He's basically checking it out and seeing what can be done. If it is gonna be crazy to repair then he'll get my advice first on how to proceed.
*Crosses fingers*
EDIT: Must have forgotten to cross those fingers, as last night prisoners were on the roof of the prison, and they had to draft more officers in to deal with the situation (for 3 blokes *sigh*). Not sure if that means no work was done on my car, but quite likely lol.
EDIT 2: Now Thursday, so will call tonight and see what the deal is with the car. Hopefully it means he has done some welding and it isn't too bad.
Matthew
Got car back last night, and it only cost me £100 for all the welding. He even rebuilt some jacking points for me. I love it when people do this stuff because they enjoy it. He even did a little extra welding that the MOT guy hadn't picked up on which is cool.
Will try get some pics. I haven't looked yet, but it prob won't be very pretty as I said I was just looking to get it though the MOT, but did need it strong/last.
Matthew
uncle silvia
29-03-2008, 17:36
Good to see you back mate!! :thumbs:
Looks like my mate Kevs old car??? Was a gooden!! :D
Yeah.. "was". Not Kev's fault, but a year of standing still caused rust to really bite it hard. Only things left are rear number plate lights, brake line and brake pipes and that's about it really, and re-enter her for the MOT.
Matthew
Ok, good news and bad news.
Good news is Channie is top guy (as ever), and brought over some copper pipe + unions, and did my rear brake pipes with his flare kit. He had to cut the pipe off as it was completely siezed (and rounded) onto the rubber brake line. Am ordering some braided hoses today, as I need a new one for the front anyway, so a complete set will be nice :)
Bad news is that after having the welding done and apparently having the jacking point "rebuilt". The rear jacking point collapsed onto the jack. Nice. Will be having a chat about why it wasn't welded properly and getting it redone as that isn't on. (Rest of the welding looks ok that I can see).
We took off the rear spoiler off as well and behold the mess. Rubbed it all down, and sanded off all the bathroom sealant that appears to have been used, and removed all the fibreglass that was also used. Sprayed the rubbed down areas in black paint temporarily so it doesn't corrode, but will be cutting out and sorting it properly.
Holy cow, what the heck is that fibreglass... :D
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e155/scougar/S13/Boot1.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e155/scougar/S13/Boot2andchannie.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e155/scougar/S13/Boot3rightside.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e155/scougar/S13/Boot4leftside.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e155/scougar/S13/Boot5leftsidenissanbadge.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e155/scougar/S13/Boot6aftersomesanding.jpg
Yes this is filler someone already put in.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e155/scougar/S13/Boot7-yesthatisfiller.jpg
Oh, I didn't take any pics of it sprayed as it was dark by time we finished the other work. Will get some more when I can. Currently covering the holes with electrical tape.
Matthew
nitrodave
31-03-2008, 08:51
boot looks to be ok'ish, seen far worse. jacking points are weak anyway. i try get to the diff or subframe when jacking up the car.
coming along nicely though!!
Yeah, unfortunately the area that caved in on the sill is about 20 cm long. I haven't had a good look yet so can't say why it caved precisely, but will find out and get is welded and hopefully strengthened. It obviously was welded some as there is welding wire in there, but quite how he has done it I'm not sure.
Boot is not the worst I've seen just the one side that is bad on the boot, and unsure of the centre at the moment due to the filler covering the rust.
Update: Just ordered some HEL braided brake lines from Hose Solutions. Willing to give these a go as they have stainless fittings where as the goodridge do not. Guy was keen to talk about his products and very informative and friendly which was nice. If they are good quality, then i'll be using Hose Solutions a whirl for the turbo lines as well and anything else I can braid :D
Will also be getting filler, fibre glass, spray etc tonight so we can do the boot. Will go with satin black for the moment :D
Melissa is keen to get started on the rust and repair!
Matthew
How many times... don't use the jacking points on S13s! :smash:
If you have to jack it up at the back, use the diff or the front subframe mounting point on either side. :)
Not so easy when you have to change a flat tyre at the side of the road is it? To me, this is the reason you SHOULD be able to use the jacking points, and if they are known weak point, then strengthen them.
So bish bash bosh back at you Pete :p lol. (obviously for work I'll stick to trolley jacking it on stronger area from now on.)
Matthew
p.s. Must get my trolley jack of Wolfe.
Not so easy when you have to change a flat tyre at the side of the road is it?
And was that what you were doing when it collapsed? :p
And was that what you were doing when it collapsed? :p
Sshhh :p :smash:
"... in the event of a flat tyre on an S13... calmly exit here, here and here." Bound to happen at some point though.
Matthew
How many times... don't use the jacking points on S13s! :smash:
If you have to jack it up at the back, use the diff or the front subframe mounting point on either side. :)
I agree with Pete :nod:
I couldnt understand why you used the jacking poit anyway??? I always use the diff... its so much stronger!
Besides where did we end up Jacking it up from??? The diff!!!
And if i was at the side of the road i'd sooner jack it up from the back than get run down by the side!!!
When those braided pipes coming????
lol.. shut ya cake hole. Or at least.. I'll fill your cake hole with dinner when you come round and sort that last union :p However.... tell me how brave you would be jacking your car up at the side of the road, under the diff and using the standard jack? I think you'd be nuts! They are called jacking points for a reason :p
Braided lines should come this week, not sure on date. He sent them out today.
Matthew
p.s. Might have to change thread title, as Melissa is claiming the S13 is her car now :D lol.
You'll be happy with the brakelines, all Stainless FTW :thumbs:
I wouldnt use the standard jack... id use the Alu racing trolley jack i normally have in my boot!
I actually knew that would be your answer ;)
Anyway, moving on :D Sanded the black paint back tonight (as it needs to be a good key against the surface and I sprayed on bare metal just to cover it up temporarily). Then filled the holes - extremely badly - with P40 compound and await it to harden. Tomorrow will sand it back and all going well, fill with P30 (I think), to get a smoother finish and fill any exposed air pockets in the fibreglass. Will then spray the boot up in hi build primer and spray in satin black until I either get a better boot, decide to repair it full on, or get a fibreglass/carbon boot.
Matthew
Done: After Channie put the scares on me about how difficult to sand down the P40 would be... I sanded it down in 2 hours last night. Ok, I admit my wrists were sore but it's pretty much done. (and also using P60 sanding disk with a block on which Channie told me not to use, but I really needed to get it sanded down in a reasonable period of time. Sorry dude, you can frown at me).
Will give it another rub down to get rid of surface rust that formed over night and get a skim of p30 filler on there to help smooth things out and fill any holes. Once that is all done I will be sanding back with finer paper and eventually 2000 before spraying up in high build primer, flatting, then putting a quick coat of satin black on to help seal it in.
Will be redoing it as it was only a quick job until I get access to proper cutting tools to toally remove the nasty sections.
Matthew
An update on the state of the boot. My brake lines have turned up, just they are sitting at the post office awaiting collection and I hope Melissa can grab them today for me :) This means I can't take the car anywhere without brakes, so for the moment (I may have mentioned this), the welding is on hold. After sanding down the majority of the boot and deciding to do a quick job to make it look ok until I decide which route to go down - fibre / carbon / fully repair boot .
Forgot to take any pics of the shambles that was the P40 fibreglass application and sanding, so without further ado, here is some pretty pink P30 filler. I partially sanded it down last night, and wiped off and primed the surface to protect it from surface rust. This is just before that when light was still available. The last semi-primed picture is of the boot after initial sanding. There is still more to be done and probably another application of the boot is not 100% smooth due to metal imperfections on the right side of the boot. Will try to sort that with my wifes help.
Glory Shot:
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e155/scougar/S13/Frontshotwhilstbootbeingworkedon.jpg
Just after putting the P30 on:
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e155/scougar/S13/Boot8-with2ndstagefiller.jpg
Had to try and build this edge up as filler has already been used on this in the past :(
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e155/scougar/S13/Boot9-Edgebeingrebuilt.jpg
First coat dry (opps see a wet patch :( ) of primer to help protect from rust overnight. Obviously added more so no pink or metal could be seen before letting dry and covering:
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e155/scougar/S13/Boot10-Halfwaythroughantirustprimin.jpg
So basically "getting there". Realised my mask is 12 years old so could really do with getting a new one!
Matthew
nitrodave
04-04-2008, 08:41
primer is porus and doesnt do too much for protecting bare metal, try and get a top coat on asap if you're keeping it outside. Your rust holes look just like mine! Getting a good finish is down to the preparation before you paint.. get it right and it will look great!
I was going to write "I know primer is porus", and typically, got picked up for it :p I always have to laugh when lads drive around with primered cars. Anyway.. it is only overnight and it is covered by a sheet so hopefully it will do :)
And yes, I will be attempting a reasonable finish. Will probably be leaving the finishing to Melissa as I think she has a better eye than this than me (plus she did this stuff at auto-school).
Matthew
Didnt want to cut away the bad bits of rust or treat the metal before slapping a fibreglass coat over them then???
Didnt want to cut away the bad bits of rust or treat the metal before slapping a fibreglass coat over them then???
Decided just to do a temporary job for the moment Channie, as I will want to paint the car and will need to prep it properly in the future (and frankly I haven't got that much money at the moment to do that :( ). After looking at Ferrets old project thread, I would like to do as he has done, and cut all the crap out, tack some plates in and fill it. That way I will maintain the metal strength to put a spoiler on the back if I wanted to.
Yes I know I should have used anti-rust treatment, but i didn't have any and needed to try an protect it asap as it was already sanded down to bear metal in places. This isn't a permanent prime just something to protect it until I sanded it down again (probably tonight).
I REALLY need to get myself a welder and some rotary tools :)
Just found out rather than dropping the brake lines at my local post office (so I could collect them as I wouldn't be in), as I requested online and was paying for. They tried a 2nd delivery to my house and left another card. What the heck is the point of an online system when the postie takes no notice. He had to stop at the PO anyway as there is a post box there he has to check so would have been quicker, GRRR.. anyway... hopefully will try and pick them up tomorrow morning from Launceston which is about 7-9 miles away, rather than a 2 minute walk from my house. Not impressed.
EDIT: They offered to drop it round to the PO this afternoon, which means even if my wifes missing the package a 2nd time, I only have to walk around the corner tomorrow morning... maybe in my jammies ;)
Matthew
p.s. Gonna try and clear garage out before I go away so I can put the car in the garage :)
Matt are you going to go body colour on your tailgate or matt black? Oh and i'd mask off a bigger area next time or you'll be finding overspray on bits.
I was in a rush as it was rapidly getting dark, so just masked off what I needed right then and there. Melissa was actually telling me to mask off more and I just wanted to get it done.
For the moment I am just gonna spray it Satin Black, but will (hopefully) eventually spray the car one colour in one go. That might mean a year down the line though.
Matthew
Ur missus is a sprayer let her handle the paint!!!!
Found a fibre glass rear boot lid... £500+ :eek:
Someone's been a busy boy haven't they :)
Hurry up and fix it as my poor car is missing the touch of someone who knows what they are doing ;-) I went mentallist on it on Sunday with a soldering iron & wire cutters etc :S
Will have spare cash from May onwards so will be able to spend a weekend or two giving you a hand with anything required mate - can bring Jay up and she and Mel can get drunk while we go break things.
Ur missus is a sprayer let her handle the paint!!!!
Found a fibre glass rear boot lid... £500+ :eek:
My Dad said I could actually 'have' the HVLC sprayer as he is never gonna use it so that is a slight bonus. That just means that I am likely gonna have to spray up in Celly anyway. Will make sure I try and get a cellulose that can take laquer so that it seals the colour or whatever :) (Don't ask me I have only ever done 1 celly spray job on my mini, and then used 2k paints for 9 months in specialist booths).
Also... yeah... Melissa is a body woman and I should have just left it to her. :o She's just working so hard I think she won't want to do it and plus I'm being a bit of a knob and being a bit male egotistical with it. *Sorry honey :cry: Promise I'll be good *
Lastly.. HOW MUCH!?!?!?! £500 for fibreglass boot! May as well buy a carbon one if they are that expensive lol. Will prob just repair this one at that cost. I was thinking a FG one would be much cheaper than carbon, oh well. Have to make do with Perspex rear at some point if I want to save weight that much.
Someone's been a busy boy haven't they :)
Hurry up and fix it as my poor car is missing the touch of someone who knows what they are doing ;-) I went mentallist on it on Sunday with a soldering iron & wire cutters etc :S
Will have spare cash from May onwards so will be able to spend a weekend or two giving you a hand with anything required mate - can bring Jay up and she and Mel can get drunk while we go break things.
Not been that busy, been slack past couple of days and just left it.
Come up anytime. It is pretty damn far to get to me though, the only downside of living out here :(
Oh and anything? How do you like undersealing cars? :thumbs:
Matthew
I'll give anything a go mate :)
Starting to get more adventurous in dealing with car issues now :P
Also... yeah... Melissa is a body woman and I should have just left it to her.
Must.....resist.....innuendo's.....:wack:
Looks like everythings coming together Matt! Is the plan to stick with the silver, change completely or top secret ;) ?
lol, I can confirm nor deny how the body status :D
Really don't know what colour to go eventually, but won't be a super dooper spray job as such. Would be nice, but not realistic as 2K is pretty nasty to spray when you don't have a decent mask. Been thinking about a metallic green of some sort. Before all that I hope to get a bodykit of some description on there. No promises however.
Matthew
but not realistic as 2K is pretty nasty to spray when you don't have a decent mask.
I have a full face respirator and compressor... so the mask would have its own feed :thumbs:
I have a full face respirator and compressor... so the mask would have its own feed :thumbs:
I take it you were not using this one when you sprayed the blue paint initially? That would be flippin' awesome if that is safe to use :D
Matthew
Matt, use 2k celly is crap compared to 2k. 2k hardens so the paint is more durable.
Rust_Killer
07-04-2008, 19:01
Nice car! Dont you just h8 rot :(
Matt, use 2k celly is crap compared to 2k. 2k hardens so the paint is more durable.
I realise that, but I don't like the thought of breathing in Isocyanates. Which is why if channie has a decent mask I might be up for using 2K, else I'll be inclined to stay away. It is 24 hours observation in Hospital for a reason :( Obviously cost is a big factor as well, and I can't really afford a perfect job so would prefer to do it myself/a mate to do it then polish it back as 'Petrol' has demonstrated. Any extra advice on spraying prepping appreciated although I won't be doing it for a while. What can I use to prime between original paint, my celly paint cans and 2k? Is that a specific primer I can use to stop the chemical reactions between the 2 types?
Nice car! Dont you just h8 rot :(
Welcome to the club Rust Killer :wave: Interesting place to put your first post :notworthy Rust is a pain yes, but as long as cut out it is fine. That is what I will eventually do :)
It "will" be a nice car eventually but a lot of work to get it to a standard where I will be happy and there isn't anything nagging at me to be done, rather than I want to be done.
What I need to be reasonably happy with it is:
1) Solid chassis, other panels are easily replacable/repairable.
2) Either coil-overs or uprated dampers to match the lowered springs as ride is sloppy at present.
3) ABS to be fully working or removed. (prefer working ABS)
4) Cooling system overhauled or flushed.
The other stuff I will do but isn't important is:
5) Put back in the Horsham Developments boost valve.
6) Put in the HD stage 1 ECU I have on my desk and run 13-14 PSI.
7) Get an electronic boost controller
8) Get additional gauges for water temp and oil pressure/temp.
9) Do a precautionary big ends overhaul.
Matthew
nitrodave
08-04-2008, 09:52
Matt, I got a full set of KYB AGX adjustable shocks for my s13 from here
www.buypartsby.co.uk
they had by far the best prices I could find
Great link, thankyou Dave :)
A full AGX set works out at £282.73 (inc VAT but not delivery.)
How do you find the handling with these, and what is body roll like? Looking at 'AGX' parts, are these suitable for the lowered springs, or do I need something more aggresive do you think? I am looking for consistant performance without the "elastic band" steering feeling.
Matthew
I realise that, but I don't like the thought of breathing in Isocyanates. Which is why if channie has a decent mask I might be up for using 2K, else I'll be inclined to stay away. It is 24 hours observation in Hospital for a reason :( Obviously cost is a big factor as well, and I can't really afford a perfect job so would prefer to do it myself/a mate to do it then polish it back as 'Petrol' has demonstrated. Any extra advice on spraying prepping appreciated although I won't be doing it for a while. What can I use to prime between original paint, my celly paint cans and 2k? Is that a specific primer I can use to stop the chemical reactions between the 2 types?
Order some 2k primer, what colour you want and some 2k clear... and some thinners and i'll come over and spray it for you... its painful watching you be such a whimp!!!!!
I sprayed for days in a tent without my respirator... im fine!Aslong as we can back the car into your garage a few feet and put the compressors outside the back door of your garge it will be fine... stop fannying about!!!
lol...whimp? (said the man who had ghey stickers on his car ;) ) But seriously... I used to work with the stuff Channie, so I am just more aware. People working with absestos prob didn't think much of it at the time either.
Anyway..you wanna come spray it for me? Great I'll book you in! :D But your wearing a mask of some description, because I love yah! (and no, wearing a pair of my wifes knickers over your face will not qualify as a mask, your boner would mark the paint ;) ).
Matthew
nitrodave
08-04-2008, 11:55
handles amazing withthe AGX, they're adjustable so can be nearl;y as soft as standard or stiffened right up to shake your bones. transformed the car.
I did the same as you and ran 35mm lowering springs on standard shocks and hated the ride, you'll love the difference fitting some kyb agx's will have.
Cool, thanks for the opinion dave :) I hadn't thought they be 'that' adjustable!
Matthew
I sprayed for days in a tent without my respirator... im fine!Aslong as we can back the car into your garage a few feet and put the compressors outside the back door of your garge it will be fine... stop fannying about!!!
Matter of opinion there... You sure those paint fumes didn't affect you? :wack:
But your wearing a mask of some description, because I love yah! (and no, wearing a pair of my wifes knickers over your face will not qualify as a mask, your boner would mark the paint ;) ).
FPMSL :clap::clap::clap:
Just looked your location up mate - you're not actually that far from me! (30ish miles) Be happy to pop over on a sunday to give you a hand if needed!
Thanks to Channie for finishing my brake lines and braided hoses last night (bless brake spanners for cracking those corroded unions free!).
Didn't get time to bleed it last night, so will do that tonight, tomorrow or saturday.
EDIT: system was completely empty of fluid so only had time (and light) to do the rears last night. They were not perfect as I still have to do the fronts and then attempt to bleed the ABS system and then rebleed the entire system to make sure it is air free.
UPDATE: Now finished bleeding the entire system, including ABS unit. May have to redo the rears as I wasn't entirely happy with them, but it was getting dark so couldn't be sure if the fluid was air free.
Matthew
Ripped out the rear number plate light bracket last night. Was totally corroded and falling to bits as mentioned before. Unfortunately the bolts holding the lights in place are also completely siezed and corroded so will have to drill them out.
I have a new bracket ready to put in as soon I have done that, although not sure on the bolt size yet.
Matthew
Rear lights are in.. plate screwed in place, but lights cable tied in place. Not 100% happy with 'em like that, so until I find some cheapy screws that is how it will stay.
Screwed the front number plate on for MOT, but still need a front number plate holder.
All that's left to do is the CV gaiter and the rear welding and hope it passes the MOT.
Matthew
Faffed about with the boot last night for an hour. Sanded all the fillered areas down and tried to get them smooth. There are some raised areas that are raised metal that I can't sort at the moment as I don't want to remove the fibreglass, bash the metal down and the redo it all when I intend to fix it permanently later in it's life with welded plates.
Anyway... looking a LOT better now but still have to sand it down to remove some sanding marks and generally smooth it out before putting a sealing coat of satin on it.
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=55044&d=1212745304
The right hand edge I noticed wasn't smooth and had a ridge on the edge of the boot where I had sanded with a block, so tried sanding it before it had dried enough. It meant I fubered that section and had to let it totally dry and sand it all down again. It is smooth curve now but there is a ridge in the paint from the sanding... *sigh*. In two minds whether to bother doing it again at this point or not.
Matthew
Bit of a rush this evening but drove my car upto Dartmoor Prison to be welded again and MOT'd :) unfortunately the boot was left in Primer but hey-ho. Need to sand it down and make it all smooth(ish) anyway before painted, so not too fussed.
Should know next week sometime on the result :D
I actually have to say that looking back at her as I drove away.. the S13 can really look like a nice car sometimes. A little surprised :D
Matthew
Order some 2k primer, what colour you want and some 2k clear... and some thinners and i'll come over and spray it for you... its painful watching you be such a whimp!!!!!
I sprayed for days in a tent without my respirator... im fine!Aslong as we can back the car into your garage a few feet and put the compressors outside the back door of your garge it will be fine... stop fannying about!!!
TUT TUT Mr Chan you wont feel it but in the future you may, Please wear a air fed mask bud :nod:
i know peaople who have painted 2k for decades, not saying it did them any good but they are still here allive and kicking,
ive painted with it to several times, with just my t shirt over my face lol (not advisable tbh lol)
prolonged exposuere to it will not do you any good but a quick pannel or 10 wont hurt :wack:
but if you want a fairly decent filtered mask give me a shout as i can get them from work i think,
Great news! The old thing actually passed the MOT :D
Car required:
1) Extra brake line putting in as another was leaking! He kindly did that for me.
2) A fuel pipe was leaking so he also replaced that!
Now I've got time and can move the beast perhaps I'll try and get the rest of the system changed over to all copper piping as that will mean: All braided lines and a complete new system, with new pads, new disks. Not sure whether to remove ABS system yet though, undecided.
Should be picking up the car on Sunday, and hope to have it taxed and insured and back on the road :)
From here who knows where the project goes. Pretty sure I'm gonna be putting some miles on the clock on a few long 'reliability runs', and then putting the stage 1 ecu and boost valve in :)
Oh... and finishing the boot!
Matthew
Nice one Matt.:thumbs::thumbs:
Good to see its up and running again! Look forward to seeing it soon :thumbs:
Should pick it up tomorrow afternoon hopefully :)
First thing to do... spend afternoon with my wife!! (Priorities.. as she will be driving me up so I can collect the car!). Then I'll prob fit the stereo (have to wire an iso plug in first), and maybe see if I have time to fit the stage 1 ecu and boost valve again.
Hopefully I'll be fully legal and driving by Monday morning :D
Matthew
ive painted with it to several times, with just my t shirt over my face lol (not advisable tbh lol)
That explains alot :wack: :D
but if you want a fairly decent filtered mask give me a shout as i can get them from work i think,
Filtered mask does the same job as a tshirt... you need a repirator to spray 2K... else you may aswell jus use goggles and do it quickly!
Great news! The old thing actually passed the MOT :D
Car required:
1) Extra brake line putting in as another was leaking! He kindly did that for me.
2) A fuel pipe was leaking so he also replaced that!
Now I've got time and can move the beast perhaps I'll try and get the rest of the system changed over to all copper piping as that will mean: All braided lines and a complete new system, with new pads, new disks. Not sure whether to remove ABS system yet though, undecided.
Should be picking up the car on Sunday, and hope to have it taxed and insured and back on the road :)
From here who knows where the project goes. Pretty sure I'm gonna be putting some miles on the clock on a few long 'reliability runs', and then putting the stage 1 ecu and boost valve in :)
Oh... and finishing the boot!
Matthew
:clap: Finally!!!
What was the other bake pipe that was leaking???
How much spraying did you want done??
lol.. yeah finally!! :D Thanks for your help with the brakes before hand Chan :nod::thumbs: Not sure which one was leaking as haven't been to collect it yet, but I think it was the one running under the car, about a 2ft section he said he replaced. Brakes were spongey before hand, so more than feasible it was that.
Hold fire on any spraying for the moment, as will need to get it all rubbed down and all the dings and dents (+rust) sorted first.
Let me get some miles on her first and see what breaks before and serious body work :)
Matthew
Brakes were feeling a bit weird, so after a quick bleed all round (following correct sequence), that was sorted :) Brakes are lovely and consistent now :)
I took a look at the door speakers.... dear Lord! They are terrible. Totally torn up, no wonder they sound like a cricket at any audible volume :( Will defo have to get them replaced with something. Perhaps straight swap 6x4's not sure yet.
One of the rears seems to be binding just slightly on each revolution creating a squeak at low speeds. Will need to investigate why that's happening as they are new disks on the rear, but old (still good) pads.
Matthew
looks nice and sounds like your going well with it keep the good work coming mate :D
Thanks Nitros :)
Ok.. update. I haven't determined where yet but I am loosing brake fluid :( Will have to get the car up on my ramps and see if a connection is leaking or similar. Also the driver side rear caliper doesn't appear to be making contact with the disk (well, the pad doesn't), so will have to see if it's seized. Strangely it passed the MOT like this!
Melissa sanded my boot quickly yesterday afternoon after having re-repaired the boot. The primer had let the water through (no surprise) and rusted it again. I then sprayed the boot with Satin Black just so it looks 'ok' for the Devon Car Show this Sunday since we are on the club stand.
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=55907&stc=1&d=1216716079
It is a very rough job as I didn't want to buy more paint when we are intending to replace the boot anyway. The picture makes it look A LOT flatter than it actually is. I actually have to stop Melissa from redoing it as she is a bit of a perfectionist.
We are now thinking about using our electric spray compressor with HVLP and doing some test sprays to see if it's worth while doing the spraying ourselves (to save cash).
Oh, I took off the wiper blades as well, sanded them lightly then washed them in hot soapy water. After letting them dry and with the paint can's so empty I was having to shake them whilst spraying just to get anything to come out (and after digging out a can out the bin to use whatever was left in that!), I managed to get a light few coats of satin black on them as well :) Look much better than the faded black with pits, but will need to do them again when I get the chance.
Matthew
bigboyballs
22-07-2008, 08:47
Seems like she's starting to take shape!
My parents have had clearout but I've managed to find the sunroof cover if you still want it? I'm still searching for the numberplate holder, if it turns up i'll let you know!
Yeah that would be great, thanks for that :) Sending you a PM :)
Matthew
Some big changes coming up in next few months, and really I've done this the wrong way round but never mind.
1) Got some 5 stud alloys on the way so I will be needing some 5 stud hubs and s14/z32 calipers to play nicely with them.
2) Have ordered alloy rad, turbo elbow, downpipe and cat silencer from DB-Powers frankly, amazing group buy. If you haven't taken a look at it yet, click the link in my sig... awesome prices on everything including fmic's/exhausts as well as the stuff mentioned above.
3) Looking to get some coil-overs end of next month to keep everything under control and playing nicely. Not 100% yet on what to get, or what will be available at the time, but currently looking at either apex gen 2's (on group buy), or the HSD's that apex also currently have on offer.
----------------------------------------------------------
I hope to recoup some of these costs (not much lol), from selling the current 4-stud alloys and tyres, and the lowering springs with standard shocks.
Thinking about it, I'll prob need to get a bigger Brake Master Cylinder as well if I uprate the brakes at the same time.
In other news: I'm on looking for a decent boot to replace mine. If you have one, please get in touch :)
Sadly, no body kit just yet, maybe in a couple of months. Looking at the two SRB kits are the moment. Chargespeed or the Uras style GT kit. I think Melissa prefers the Chargespeed version.
Matthew
Chriscooke
01-08-2008, 09:57
Looks like your going to be busy soon mate:nod: Your boot also looked spot on when i saw it the other day, you going black when you get the new one aswell? Must be handy to have a girl that is in to bodywork:D
lol.. too right it's handy. She was gutted about how the boot came out, but we didn't have enough time to do it properly and it was alright for DCS, rather than being half black, half primer and bubbling.
Will likely do the new boot black as well :) Probably shiny black though along with the roof.
Matthew
I picked up some alloys from another :sxoc: member recently...
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=56520&stc=1&d=1219044461
17*8.5 +ET16 Work Equips Split Rims :D (With good eagle F1's on the rear and Firestone Firehawk sz80 on the front). Not in perfect condition but good condition but will do until I get a bodykit and then will get them refurbed hopefully. (Thank you very much to the member for these).
You may have noticed the 5 stud. For this I'm picking up some 300zx fronts and rear gear, hubs/ discs calipers/ cables. If anyone's interested in the rear 300zx assembly for an S14 rear brake conversion let me know :)
For the fronts (as the 300zx hub won't fit) I'll be getting Ichiba conversion hubs, to save messing about with copper piping and moog ball joints on S14 hubs. Additionally i'll be getting S13 to 300zx lines, so if anyone interested in HEL braided S13 lines front and rear, let me know (Only about 3 months old).
Matthew
On the way back from JAE, I picked up this lot (3 boxes), to go with my new wheels (waited about a month to get it).
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=56754&stc=1&d=1220263786
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=56755&stc=1&d=1220263790
Z32 hubs and brakes all round :D (26mm alloy fronts).
All that I need to go with this lot now is to swap my s13 braided lines for s13 to z32 braided lines, and buy the front conversion hubs from the states :) I'll then be in business and probably need an arch flare on the rear.
Matthew
...got these:
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=56760&stc=1&d=1220347644
Front 5 Lug Hub conversion (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230286341808&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fmotors.shop.ebay.com%3A80%2F__%3F_ from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dm39%26_nkw%3D230286341808%2 6_nd1%3D%26_fvi%3D1)
and this to sort my clutch out until I up my power (a while yet!):
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=56762&stc=1&d=1220347853
S13 Clutch Kit (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8024053863&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2F%3F_from%3D R40%26_trksid%3Dm38%26_nkw%3D8024053863%26_fvi%3D1 )
I just doubled the amount I paid for my car since I bought all this stuff in past few months lol . Love it :D
I'll be needing to get S13 to Z32 from Hose Solutions soon, so my few months old HEL S13 braided lines will be up for sale as soon as I put my new brakes etc.
Also will have for sale: (in coming months not right now, so please only PM me if interested, I will put official for sale up later when I actually have all the stuff off the car).
Z32 front hubs + carrier.
Z32 rear carrier and cables for E-brake setup (e.g. for s14 conversion etc).
S13 slotted disks (barely used).
EBC green stuff front pads.
Brand new unused EBC rear (heavy duty) brake pads.
S13 preface-lift (I assume) calipers painted in blue.
My 17" Kosei Alloys (4 stud), with legal tyres.
S13 HEL braided brake lines as mentioned above.
Matthew
Cool!! Things are looking good for Nelly!! (Bex's old name for the car!!)
nitrodave
02-09-2008, 14:55
looking good matt, i love it when a plan comes together. keep at it mate, gonna be a nice car!!
She's certainly gonna be more than a Nelly ;)
Didn't help that I had bought they wheels, promised the money for the hubs/brakes etc, then the Melissa's car decided it was it's time to part from this world, and taken part in the DB-Power group buy. This is ending up more expensive than I thought lol.
Still gotta love it though :D Doing things all the wrong way round but never mind.. it's getting done.
Matthew
HEL Braided Lines S13 to Z32 now on the way :) (:Plug: Thanks Hose Solutions :thumbs:)
Matthew
Bonus Matt??? :D
Wheels are gunna look hot dude!
dougal200
03-09-2008, 22:28
i would be very interested in the rear handbrake setup. do you have the backing plates etc
Yeah, mostly the bonus, but now wishing I hadn't since Melissa's car has died, but I have to say.. I love my wife :D
Dougal> Yes it includes the back plates and cables, but I will be using the hub, disk and caliper. I have put up this thread to avoid getting the project thread going off-topic: http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=369729
Matthew
Clutch kit turned up :) Alledgely an Exedy (not uprated as far as I'm aware, and I didn't know it was an Exedy) and even has the part number and "Made in Japan" stamped on it. Wonder if it's actually genuine lol.
Matthew
Chriscooke
05-09-2008, 12:15
I heard somewhere that the standard ones were actually Exedy:confused: Could be wrong tho
but I have to say.. I love my wife :D
I should hope so! After all, you had to go to America to find one... :wack:
S13 to Z32 brake conversion lines arrived yesterday. Awesome quality as ever from Hose Solutions :thumbs:
All that's left to arrive are the front hubs, and get some front brake pads. (oh and employ someone with a nice big breaker bar to get the hub nuts off :wack:)
Matthew
All that's left to arrive are the front hubs, and get some front brake pads. (oh and employ someone with a nice big breaker bar to get the hub nuts off :wack:)
Matthew
I have a 10ft long, thin scaffold pole I use as my breaker bar, you're more than welcome to use it :D
Yeah that might be useful :) I will need a big enough socket and most like a decent tool so I don't snap it when trying to get the hub nut free ;) (anyone?)
Matthew
Yeah that might be useful :) I will need a big enough socket and most like a decent tool so I don't snap it when trying to get the hub nut free ;) (anyone?)
Matthew
You can use my Halfords Professional Set, with its Lifetime Warranty, so no worries about snapping it :D
What size socket do you need?
That would be cool :) 36mm I believe for the hub nut. (EDIT: Incorrect.. the hub nut size on an S13 is 30mm).
Front hub convertors turned up today :D No fannying around with copper sleeving etc for S14 hubs :D
Matthew
That would be cool :) 36mm I believe for the hub nut.
Front hub convertors turned up today :D No fannying around with copper sleeving etc for S14 hubs :D
Matthew
I'll see if I have a 36mm socket....off the top of my head i think the biggest I have is a 32mm?...
i may have but mate has my socket set but i got breaker bars
lol.. I'll borrow whatever I can get :D Rear tyres have worn out so need to get the rears converted asap!
Matthew
The biggest socket I have is 32mm :(
I think i have a 36mm socket but just a bit to far away :wack:
Good progress anyway bud and love the wheels :nod: i think i might get off my arse today and do someot seein all what uve done :D
The biggest socket I have is 32mm :(
If it's ok, can I still borrow your breaker bars?
I think i have a 36mm socket but just a bit to far away :wack:
Good progress anyway bud and love the wheels :nod: i think i might get off my arse today and do someot seein all what uve done :D
I'll ask Channie to see what he's got, I'd imagine he has a 36mm.
Progress? Cool! If Progress is me buying stuff that isn't fitted then I'm 99% there already :wack: hehe. But seriously, got all the bits to go on now, it's just a matter of unbolting and bolted and hoping I don't brake anything in the process...
... and that small matter of a rear arch roll :indiff: :annoyed:
I'm dreading having to do the clutch, as I know it's gonna be a nightmare doing it under the car with such a heavy weight and trying to line up bolt holes. Also a bit worried that the fly wheel will need to be skimmed and I can't do without my car right now, so if it does need skimming I'm stuffed. Think i'll leave this till after the move to Plymouth area, rather than the devon/cornwall border in a tiny village.
Matthew
Amongst much name calling and :ghey: accusations from Mr. Chan, he has been his usual universal mechanic self, and decided to help me get the front wheels on today (plus he's the one with the right tools :D). This will mean I can swap the front 4 studs to the back temporarily and buy me more time to get the stuff prepped for sorting the rear hubs.
Cheers Channie, I'm always reluctant to ask you for help as your always helping everyone else! I appreciate it :)
Pics tomorrow I expect :)
EDIT: It's these that will be going on :D
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=57022&d=1221133977
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=57023&d=1221133992
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=57024&d=1221134002
Firstly, big apologies to Channie for last night, as I held him later than I meant to and made him late for something else. Thank you Andy, you have helped me out so many times :nod: :thumbs:
Secondly... I hang my head in shame for causing this. For whatever reason tiredness/stupidity (very possible)/simply forgot... I thought that I would just do the hubs, slot the disks (4 stud S13!!! :wack:) back on and run the original calipers... soon as we'd done the hubs... I realised how damn stupid I'd been. Rather than go back and have wasted all the time.. we opted to plow on (and get it all done). My contribution was pretty much running around like a headless chicken from this point, while Channiban kept a level head :smash: :notworthy (sorry mate, not normally like that just aware you had to be away, and completely embarassed that I'd managed to be such a numpty.)
Only managed due to time constraint to get one ABS ring transferred, and will go back and do the other at a later date.. probably when I go to refurb the calipers. We used a hub puller and a couple of socket inside each other to get the ring off evenly. The 2nd ring would not budge and didn't have time as mentioned to let it soak in WD40 so left it. To get the ring on, either use a press or gentle tap it on the initial way with a hammer (rubber is best), and then if you only have metal hammer, then use a piece of wood and hit the wood rather than the ring. Tap (:smash:)it round and try to get the ring on evenly, this will avoid splitting your ring :D ;)
Another point is about the hubs. Do not test fit the hub all the way onto the drive shaft. At least with this one then inner bearing retainer came out when I test fitted it and hadn't put on the retaining washer first :rolleyes: Chan then had to spend a while (30 mins!) getting the small circular spring back into the rubber. This unfortunately is the hub without the abs ring on, so will have to be careful when I take it off next time.
Thankfully after I built the calipers up and the small amount of pad left, then brakes work pretty well. They need pumping for best effect, so definately need bleeding some more. Still can't believe how lovely and light the calipers are as they are alloy :)
Eventually left the house at 9:38pm having to drive 24 miles to pick up my wife from work, through -mostly- country lanes by 10pm on untested brakes :eek: Had to sit behind a cop car doing 20mph in a 30 zone at one point :whip:
Didn't have any time for pics unfortunately. I took some this morning with the wheels still filthy, but don't have my cable to transfer from the phone today. Will try tonight.
Tip: Number 1) Remember where the **** you put your hack saw. Number 2) Go through the stages of what your going to do to avoid being a noob 3) Let your mates know how much you appreciate their help (and tools :D)
Notes: S13 Hub nut size is 30mm, not 36mm as previously assumed. Make sure you get a deep socket as an ordinary socket may not fit.
looking good dude .. pic's of the conversion ??
EDIT: Realised my phone could actually send emails without it having a service setup... so PICS!!!
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=57048&stc=1&d=1221398466
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=57049&stc=1&d=1221398479
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=57064&stc=1&d=1221417305
Forgive me them not looking pretty, the brakes are not refurbed yet and the alloys and completely filthy from us shoving them on last night... oh and mismatched wheel nuts :D
New wheels look good! Better when a)clean, b)re-furb'd and c)matching rears!
Are you going to paint the calipers? Silver would look nice and tidy - got an almost full tub of silver hammerite if you want. Did my calipers with it and they came up nicely.
(I had no idea who those texts were from yesterday! Was asking everyone if they knew who this number was :wack:)
Calipers will be refurbed and painted once I've moved house :) Not sure quite how I'm gonna do the calipers, but I suspect a fair few coats of hammerite smooth :) Probably in black.
When we get the money together and have some other body bits I'll prob refurb the alloys after I've done the bodywork so then it all looks nice and fresh :)
The rear arches need rolling first before I put the rear hubs on, otherwise I think I'll need to run the stretched wheels on the rear just to get clearance :wack:
Matthew
If you change your mind about the wheels, let me know :D or exchange for mine...
lol, so exchange my Work Equip 17"x8.5" +ET16 split rims for your Rota Boost 8x17 alloys? Hmm.... ;)
Wheels and calipers looking good mate :thumbs:
Thanks guys :)
The rims definately need a refurb (well one does, but no point only refurbing one wheel!), but as mentioned I'll leave that till a later date. No point having fresh looking alloys with a tatty body.
Nothing major to report, except I finally put the new front pads in today, so taking it easy till those have bed in :)
I did take the rear 5 stud hubs off the Z32 carrier's today, and noticed what looks like a rubber grease guard on the dust shield. Do I need to prise that off? (Pics to follow).
I intend to simply cut the S13 dust shield and put the Z32 n/a disk straight onto the 5 stud hub. Not sure if the existing S13 e-brake will fit the Z32 rear disk yet, but looking into it. That way an S14 owner can take my carrier + dust shield and get e-brake for himself :) Hope it works, will see.
Oh yeah.. anyone got 2 rear Z32 studs, as noticed 2 of mine are mangled.. or shall I try and take 2 fronts out from the Z32 fronts?
Matt, i'm liking those wheels alot :nod::nod::nod:
Thanks Gary :) They are dirty as hell at the moment, but they are making the car look friggin' mean from the front :)
Love it :D
Now to get the rears done! I hope I will be able to get away without a roll temporarily, as the car isn't that low, obviously I'd like it done properly... but my Channieban senses are telling me a cheeky roll may take place with a scaffolding bar if an emergency occurs ;)
So I took the Z32 hubs off the carriers on Saturday:
http://sxoc.co.uk/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=57210&stc=1&d=1222082811
Everything came away nicely, although I think I'll need two new studs for one of them :(
Anyone got any idea if I need to take out this rubber ring from the dust shield? I assume the one on my S13 dust shields will be ok?
http://sxoc.co.uk/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=57211&stc=1&d=1222082816
Lastly.. Here is a pic of the front wheel converted :) (Looking very dirty and still bedding in, and yes I realise the dust shield is looking awful, I wil cut that of properly when I do the other ABS Ring).
http://sxoc.co.uk/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=57212&stc=1&d=1222082824
dougal200
22-09-2008, 12:51
you should litterally be able to unbolt your existing hubs, bolt in the new ones.
trim the lip on the dust shield and put the new discs on. :thumbs:
Cool :) (George had already confirmed the bits do bolt up all fine, but didn't know about the little rubber, so thanks :thumbs: Which means.. those rear hubs/carriers/dust shields/cables are actually all ready for you Dougal (Do you still want them?). I'm working away for three days so won't be able to post them till I get back however.
I hear you can use the aluminium carrier for the rears, but you'll need a suitable strut (and not sure what 'suitable' means as the arms are MUCH thicker diameter compared to standard cast S13 ones, other that finding one that fits lol). Benefit will be better heat dissapation and much lighter :D
dougal200
24-09-2008, 12:53
yes mate, ill still be wanting them if thats ok mate.
i get payed on friday so ill paypal you the cash over. can you pm me with your details etc.
im going to try and use the alloy hubs, as you say i think there is an issue around the strut mounting but im sure ill find a solution to that. It will be far nicer to have some shiny alloy hubs rather than the standard iron jobbies which i need to strip and paint anyway.
ill let you know how it goes:thumbs:
hey dude just a quick one whats the torque seting on the hub nuts. Or better still have you got a list of all the torque setings :) looking good btw :thumbs:
yes mate, ill still be wanting them if thats ok mate.
i get payed on friday so ill paypal you the cash over. can you pm me with your details etc.
im going to try and use the alloy hubs, as you say i think there is an issue around the strut mounting but im sure ill find a solution to that. It will be far nicer to have some shiny alloy hubs rather than the standard iron jobbies which i need to strip and paint anyway.
ill let you know how it goes:thumbs:
The alloy is in good condition from what I can see, as are the bushes, from what I remember, but I didn't inspect them as such. I'm sure your struts could be modified/cutback and then plated slightly for extra strength, from what I have seen it really isn't an issue for you with your welding/metal skills :)
Would be great to use the alloy as going by the calipers it is A LOT light than the cast iron items :) Sending you a PM :)
hey dude just a quick one whats the torque seting on the hub nuts. Or better still have you got a list of all the torque setings :) looking good btw :thumbs:
We didn't have a torque wrench too hand :embarrased:, but will be redoing them asap to the correct torque. (I don't advise you do it without a torque wrench!) The torque settings should be S13 Service Manual as available on Horsham Developments website (http://www.h-dev.co.uk/index2.php?page=200sxmanuals)
I've not had a problem so far, as we used a breaker bar to do the hubs up... but it's better to be safe than sorry, and use a Calibrated torque wrench :)
dude you dont want to over tighten them hub nuts you'll f*ck the bearings up :eek:
dougal200
26-09-2008, 07:59
hi mate,
sent the money over now:thumbs:
on the subject of torque for the rear hub- dont worry too much as long as you have done then up tight for the moment. you cant really over tighten them as the nut tightens up on a shoulder not the bearings, it is taper roller bearings that you have to be carefull with ie the back of minis,VWs etc.
just find the correct torque and do them up with the wheels on etc.
this will be higher than most torque wrenches go btw
We did them up to about the same (by feel) with 4 foot breaker bar on the fronts. I will try to get them done correctly at some point soon however.
(On the topic of mini's.. the front 'Cooper' bearings were tapered roller bearings)
ooh dint know that. i did the same thing with my FTO ( did them up with a braker bar) and they squealed like a f*ucker all the time after that. 2months later n they was f*uckered :eek:
So I can't really overtighten them so should be safe, so they should be ok anyway.... unless they are tapered roller bearings? (Which they are not at least on the front).
I defo need to borrow/get a decent torque wrench.
BTW: I've done 550 miles, and no issues, other than a bit of 'humming' pad noise on left turns whilst the new one's were bedding in (that's gone now and only lasted a day).
EDIT: As per the service manual:
*Check Tightening torque of wheel bearing lock nut.
147 - 216Nm (15 - 22kg-m, 108 - 159 ft-lb)
*Check that wheel bearings operate smoothly.
*Check axial end play.
Axial end play: 0.03mm (0.0012 in) or less
*If axial end play is not within specification or wheel bearing does not turn smoothly, replace wheel bearing assembly.
I did actually notice in the manual that you can get 2 wheel bearing drift's. One for putting bearing in, and one for getting them out. That says to me, that you can get them out potentially in one piece rather than destroying them :)
You got the wheels on yet then :D, get some pics up when u do bud :thumbs:
Not converted the rears yet. Not much time at present, been in London on training and trying to get everything packed for the house move next friday.
Not converted the rears yet. Not much time at present, been in London on training and trying to get everything packed for the house move next friday.
Where are you moving too Matt????????
Manadon Park :) (Next to Crownhill). Means I can walk to work and reasonably close for Melissa to get to Ernesettle for her job.
OK... slight flaw in the overall plan, Big End failure almost definately. Looking for a new engine, prob gonna be another CA due to costs and simplicity of getting car back up and running.
Thank goodness we moved recently and can now walk to work instead of being 19 miles away in a village without a bus service!
nitrodave
20-10-2008, 08:49
much more optimistic than I was when my big ends failed, although i spent a couple of days on my back changing the shells only for it to give up on me again.
My plan is to hopefully have it back on the road by christmas by doing an engine swap, but finding a good ca is proving harder than i first thought :(
Bummer :( still, at least, as you say, you can walk to work now. Not changing the shells then? Wouldn't that be the cheaper option?
much more optimistic than I was when my big ends failed, although i spent a couple of days on my back changing the shells only for it to give up on me again.
My plan is to hopefully have it back on the road by christmas by doing an engine swap, but finding a good ca is proving harder than i first thought :(
I was really gutted the first few days as this isn't what I had hoped would happen with this car I must admit. If I can get a reasonable engine for a reasonable price then that will do for the moment. If it comes to having to spend £800 upwards then I'll seriously have to consider if it's worthwhile A) Sticking with a CA B) Keeping the car. That is mainly due to things such as coil-overs costing that much to buy etc, and I'd rather get the handling sorted with the money, but hey.. it doesn't always work out like that lol.
Looking at the costs.. if I even think about going SR20, then I may as well go RB, and if I'm thinking about that.. I may as well fork out for an already modded S13 or another car entirely as your getting close to £2k by that point. Obviously I don't want to spend an extra £2k I don't have as I already have enough debt to manage.
Bummer :( still, at least, as you say, you can walk to work now. Not changing the shells then? Wouldn't that be the cheaper option?
It might be a false economy especially since I drove a few miles with it on dubious oil pressure. I might give a rebuild a once I have the old engine out and completely renew, or build up a decent power engine. Don't fancy spending out for new shells, oil filter, oil etc for it to do what Dave's engine and other's have done and start knocking a little while later.
Trying to stay positive, and seeing what comes along :) I'll try and look at it as if I do mod my car engine then it will be worth slightly more etc (in the short term), which may justify the costs.
It's just annoying that I'm having to spend money on an engine that I would have rather put towards sorting out the suspension (c/o's, all new bushes, de-rusting the subframe, arb's, alignment arms etc.)
Agreed on a replacement engine. Some peeps think I should get an SR20 in there rather than a CA18. Perhaps, but I hadn't intended on doing this so want to keep costs down whilst getting a reliable motor, and hopefully what I am getting will be, and I won't have to touch the engine - bar maintenance - before I get the suspension and the bodywork done. It's a big payment on this I'm making and I really don't think I can stretch it much further at the moment.
Perhaps when I'm done with everything else I'll consider SR power :)
My eventual plan for the car will prob be in the following order: Coil-overs, Alignment parts, poly bushes, carbon front wings, carbon boot (or a decent original), carbon skirks, aftermarket front and rear bumpers and if finances allow a roll cage and carbon roof (just to get rid sunroof and stiffen the car).
We all have dreams.
Didn't say.. it's an HD Stage 2 Engine using a GT28R. Using a different geabox and a GTR FMIC.
Got to arrange picking it all up yet and a place to fit it :wack: but hopefully I'll have a running car again soon :)
gutted for you dude. bl00dy nissans :(
Suprmek1
25-10-2008, 11:40
Stick with the CA ftw. I'd do roll cages at very good prices and local too ;)
gutted for you dude. bl00dy nissans :(
The wheels are still on though :D Done 1500 miles on the hubs with no issues :thumbs:
Stick with the CA ftw. I'd do roll cages at very good prices and local too ;)
Strangley I was actually thinking about you to eventually do a cage after I saw the work you did on the drift cars. Top work on those cages, was really impressed. (I had a really good look round the skyline when chatting to your mum at DCS).
Always thought with your standard of work I wouldn't be able to afford, but defo give you a buzz when I do -hopefully- get to the stage I want to replace the roof.
Plan of action - Cos you have to plan at some point :D
1) Collect engine from Worcester (Hiring a van for this - not yet sorted :rolleyes:
2) Get car picked up on trailer and taken to Torquay
3) Get old engine out, transfer any bits needed
4) Fit new clutch - maybe depends on time
5) Get bumper off ready for GTR FMIC
6) Relocate battery (boot maybe?)
7) Put in engine and fit FMIC and put on bumper
8) Add 5 litres of engine oil, some gearbox oil and stir
9) Suppose I had better put some coolant in and bleed it
10) Prime engine, engage power fingers...*pray*... start engine.
Another day I will try to get the Z32 brakes on and transfer Work Equips as I reckon i'll need a scaffolding/roller bar to sort that out. Mid november I have the new rad and other bits from the group buy turning up (Luckily I paid for these months ago else I would not be able to afford these bits now thanks to the engine breaking).
After that I have to consider what to do next.
I need to handling out first I reckon, so will try my best to get some coil-overs (and hopefully new bushes) plus, rear camber bits. Not sure where to go from there. Do I go body work first to look pretty.. or go for a cage, so I can replace the roof, and perhaps even have a track worthy car?
Fix any decaying metalwork before moving onto handling. Will cost you lots more in the long run else :)
Your perfectly right Steve, I just don't have the time or money to do that at the moment though. I'm pretty sure that as least some of the bits that got welded for the last MOT will need to be redone, and if I'm stripping back the car I will like to get it all done at once at some point :)
For the moment it's a road car, and it needs the suspension sorting. When I hopefully go for a cage etc... I'll try to get all that funky rusty stuff sorted then :)
You still up for coming with me on a saturday/sunday to get this engine?
you got a new motta for it then dude
Yup. Just gotta pick it up :)
CA18DET @ 60k miles (ish)
HD Stage 2 ECU
GT28R @ 15k Miles (ish)
Tubular Manifold
Elbow
GTR FMIC
HKS Style Downpipe (Probably going to be replaced by a decat silencer downpipe)
Better Gearbox than mine
To be fitted to it:
Standard Exedy Clutch and plate plus new release bearing (Already bought myself)
Then to go on mid November from a group buy:
DB Power Alloy Radiator
(Maybe DB Power elbow and DB Power Decat silencer downpipe)
Means I have my stage 1 ecu to sell as it's just sitting on my side (oh and a standard ecu as well lol).
good news m8 :thumbs: im have i little truble with mine at the min . im not sure if its boost leak or clutch sliping. i'll have to get a boost gauge put on so i can tell what it is.
You still up for coming with me on a saturday/sunday to get this engine?
As long as it's not a day when I have overtime (should be clear for a few weeks now) then I'll gladly be your co-pilot for the run :) When the time does come to clean up the shell, I can lend a hand there as I'm starting to get the hang of it all, what with my front arches etc :D
That would be cool. It will probably need a stonking load of cleaning underneath and all the subframes blasted, protected and painted. The sills aren't too good, so work can probably be done there as well. Considering my options with the rear arches (haven't really thought about it much, but have a few ideas). I know exactly what I want to do to the front arches, just unsure of lights yet.
Dump the fronts for some grp wide arches :)
Slice up the rears and rivet on some wide arches there too :D
Job's a goodun.
Dump the fronts for some grp wide arches :)
Carbon front arches. End of. (I admit they are proving a little elusive to find)
Slice up the rears and rivet on some wide arches there too :D
Kinda what I'm feeling :)
General feeling at home = Turn it into a semi or full track car. Not quite sure how to do this financially but will see.
This is quite a scary thing to consider for me, as there is heck of a lot of work getting the car track worthy (i.e. shell will need to be sorted which could take a fair wack of time). Plus getting all the safety bits, from keeping the engine safe (oil coolers etc), to seats/harnesses etc.
Oh dear.
Semi :thumbs: then you can still come to meets in it :D
Strip, reduce weight and tune! Ignore the styling and imagine the look of the face of Mr Porsche or Ferrari as this battered old Nissan breezes past :wack:
Semi :thumbs: then you can still come to meets in it :D
Strip, reduce weight and tune! Ignore the styling and imagine the look of the face of Mr Porsche or Ferrari as this battered old Nissan breezes past :wack:
Might do that :) Although would prefer the unbattered Nissan!
Chriscooke
28-10-2008, 14:21
If you enjoy driving it on the road i wouldn't go too extreme with it. I couldn't live with my car being soley for track use as i love being able to use it every day:nod:
Sound like what you need is to buy a complete track prepared car of someone who’s maybe breaking one for a good price and swap all the bits over to yours :wack:
:Plug:
lol... have emailed you back man. The wife is in control of the finances.. and she's a tough negotiator lol ;)
Matt - had no idea you had a project thread. :rolleyes:
Subscribed :thumbs:
Yup...way too much talk, too little action (and too few pictures ;)).
Considering taking a whole car or more than just the engine etc, although I doubt we could afford it. Think we are stretching our funds as it is with the new engine at the moment, but doesn't hurt to ask... you never know things may change.
Might do that :) Although would prefer the unbattered Nissan!
I'd be quite tempted to do up something old with silly engine and then deliberately beat it up a bit and have a battered old sleeper :wack:
Think I am gonna bite the bullet and strip out the ABS (Cheers Chan :thumbs:), and try to get the rear wheels swapped from 4 to 5 stud before I do the engine change.
Think I am gonna bite the bullet and strip out the ABS (Cheers Chan :thumbs:), and try to get the rear wheels swapped from 4 to 5 stud before I do the engine change.
Yeah, ditch the ABS :nod: :thumbs:
Yeh ditch it :D
Youve got your conversion, will be 10x better :thumbs: more space to lol
Sitting at home doing nothing, as been ordered to relax lol. Fancied wire brushing the rear z32's see if I can hold out lol.
Not done much recently.. just faffing trying to sort the engine pick up.
Just ordered most of the oil and extras for the change (Z32 fuel filter/oil filter/engine oil/anti-freeze), but going to try and get some fuchs gear oil from GSF, as heard it a few times now that the silkolene SYN5 75w-90 stuff really is not good for a road car (bad changes for 1st/2nd when cold).
Thanks to Alex at K-Drift for being an absolute legend and letting me use his place for the engine change very soon :thumbs:
Monkey Magic
19-11-2008, 15:38
Wow that IS allot of reading :eek: too much for my fragile mind :indiff: :D
Got a bit more interesting in this last page though now you want some track action :nod: :thumbs:
Been working on my s13 today and decided it's about time to make my own project thread :)
keep up the good work dude :thumbs: i have'nt even started mine yet my brother has be to busy seting up haywood rotory north ( his new garage) so he has not time for me just now. but i may have a new garage to rent soon :thumbs: oh that n i ran out of money after buying the new coilovers from apex :rolleyes:
lol opps. All the stuff is straight forward for you Amxen, as long as you have the tools to hand :)
Monkey> Sorry man, I know.. lots of waffle, little action. I should have taken more pictures ;)
I'll be upfront and honest. If the engine swap goes well and I manage to get some coil-overs on her, then it's likely a keeper. If I don't get coils on then I'll prob sell her, for something else. Meant to be saving and I'm really funked (i.e. peed off) that I had to get a new engine instead of spending half that money and getting suspension bits. Considering that I have just paid close about £1000 on brakes and alloys, and about to spend £1000 ish on doing an engine swap (ok stg 2 but still), then I look at Wolfe's S14a I could have bought for under that... it really pisses me off that I have this car. Just being honest.
... it really pisses me off that I have this car. Just being honest.
Chin up, fella :)
lol opps. All the stuff is straight forward for you Amxen, as long as you have the tools to hand :)
Monkey> Sorry man, I know.. lots of waffle, little action. I should have taken more pictures ;)
I'll be upfront and honest. If the engine swap goes well and I manage to get some coil-overs on her, then it's likely a keeper. If I don't get coils on then I'll prob sell her, for something else. Meant to be saving and I'm really funked (i.e. peed off) that I had to get a new engine instead of spending half that money and getting suspension bits. Considering that I have just paid close about £1000 on brakes and alloys, and about to spend £1000 ish on doing an engine swap (ok stg 2 but still), then I look at Wolfe's S14a I could have bought for under that... it really pisses me off that I have this car. Just being honest.
made chin up, i paid less for the whole car than i have just forked out for a set of pistons allone, these cars really are not valuable to re sell, but its worth every penny to me.
Yeah I know it's that way with these cars, just getting an S13 to a state I'll be happy with (in looks as well as performance) compared to an S14a is tough work. It's purely because they are older I guess, more has gone wrong etc.
Was meant to be a car in good condition, but turns out it really wasn't "that" good. Too eager to get back into SX ownership :D Just so much to sort out.. got all the handling stuff to do, then stuff to make it pretty, and other more general stuff such as the boot needs replacing, the sunroof leaks down under the headling into the rear seatbelt, generally the car just needs a tidy up of all the moving components. Trouble is at the moment all I can see is the thousands needed (in my eyes) to make it somewhere close to the way I want it to be.
I know it's all mellow dramatic, it will probably change when I drive it again... it will definately change when I get the handling sorted.
Oh, if anyone has a sunroof that is less knackered than mine.. please PM me!
Oh, if anyone has a sunroof that is less knackered than mine.. please PM me!
Ally plate FTW! :thumbs:
We have previously discussed it, as I'm not overly comfortable with a carbon roof and the possible shards that can produce. Wish I could just get a replacement non-sunroof roof lol.
Will mostly do the aluminium plate if I get the cage in as well.
OK fair as I can see, engine pick-up is next week (STILL have to arrange the van *blush* to go pick it up from Worcester), and then as long as Alex is able do the conversion on the sat or sun as well.
Get nervous lol. I hate having to depend on other people when it comes to moving my car about.. so need to get a trailer and a tow car later in life lol.
We have previously discussed it, as I'm not overly comfortable with a carbon roof and the possible shards that can produce. Wish I could just get a replacement non-sunroof roof lol.
Will mostly do the aluminium plate if I get the cage in as well.
I wouldn't worry about the shards mate what the chances of that happening. Fitting an aluminium plate is fine for a fixer upper but will never look great.
OK fair as I can see, engine pick-up is next week (STILL have to arrange the van *blush* to go pick it up from Worcester), and then as long as Alex is able do the conversion on the sat or sun as well.
Get nervous lol. I hate having to depend on other people when it comes to moving my car about.. so need to get a trailer and a tow car later in life lol.
Call 1car1 They are very good for van/car hire.
I hope to take the car on track which means I may be pushing it a bit so don't really fancy the shards or the fibres in my lungs after a crash. Maybe something can be done about that though. Metal plate over the top is certainly cheap, but definately not very pretty looking.
Will compare prices and see what 1car1 is offering :) Ideally i'd like an friday night hire (or at least to hand in by early a.m. on the saturday morning or perhaps hire thursday and hand in fri morning.
They do what you want Matt and i think it costs about £40 give them a shout.
Oh right.... so they are flexible beyond the 'standard' hours, that's cool :) Thanks Gary :)
Oh right.... so they are flexible beyond the 'standard' hours, that's cool :) Thanks Gary :)
Yeah they seem pretty good im getting another van off them on Friday. It for for Mum and dad i have to drive it as they dont want too.
Ok, didn't go according to plan for this weekend, but looks like we will be doing the engine change on the 6th of December.
Oil has turned up, just have to get some gearbox oil.
Waiting for the DB Power group buy stuff to get here, as I'm waiting on the alloy radiator which would be nice to stick in at the same time.
Will try to remember to take photo's! :D
OK, perhaps not good news. I can't get hold of Alex at all so not sure what is going on. At the moment it's looking like this won't be going ahead.
I'm a bit screwed as I have nowhere to put the engine otherwise. Luckily I paid extra to have the van for the entire weekend, but at present I can only do the swap on the Saturday. Looks like I may not be doing this till I get back from the states :(
Would offer to help bud but have no transport to get down there :(
Hope you can sort it out :thumbs:
Engine in Van (Thanks Seth!), but engine swap aborted as Alex's van has broken down.
Now just gotta figure out how to remove the engine from the van without a hoist now, and find a place to keep it hmm.
two of you can lift a ca without the gearbox easy :nod: ive done it :wack:
Right... I think what we are gonna do is just stick it in the garage with LOTS of protection for the floor (i.e. anti-oil). That's the only concern with putting it in the garage.
Do you reckon 3 could lift it with gearbox on out of a big van?
Also.. can anybody help me with doing this... I can hire the van for an extra day on Monday if needed.
Right... I think what we are gonna do is just stick it in the garage with LOTS of protection for the floor (i.e. anti-oil). That's the only concern with putting it in the garage.
Buy a plastic tray from B&Q :thumbs:
Do you reckon 3 could lift it with gearbox on out of a big van?
:nod: - it's not just the weight though, but the awkwardness of getting it out of a tight space (not sure what size van you have). Three of us manhandled my SR20DET + box into the back of an escort car.
Also.. can anybody help me with doing this... I can hire the van for an extra day on Monday if needed.
Wish I could, fella. :nod:
Same here i wish i could :(
Im sure plenty of the plym boys would offer tho :)
I know you would chaps! :) Thanks.
The van is a long wheel base, slightly bigger than a transit. Floor is fairly low and flat :) Would only needed to be moved a few metres hopefully (as long as parking is ok that particular day)
Thanks to help from fellow sxoc rep Garysx, and couple of mates of mine, the engine is now sitting peacefully in the garage. Damn that thing was heavy.
Note quite sure where to go from here other than prep the engine for putting in, fitting the clutch etc.
Need to get the rear wheels off so I can send them to Overdrive and get the rear wheel conversion sorted.
Thanks to help from fellow sxoc rep Garysx, and couple of mates of mine, the engine is now sitting peacefully in the garage. Damn that thing was heavy.
Note quite sure where to go from here other than prep the engine for putting in, fitting the clutch etc.
Need to get the rear wheels off so I can send them to Overdrive and get the rear wheel conversion sorted.
Or sell it and buy another 14a you know you felt at home in mine LOL:nod::D:D
You were welcome with the help mate.
Dont lose heart Matt it will all work itself out in the end.
P.s find some where easier to find if you move again i got lost again on the way out:whip:
ROFL man.. your not the first to get lost bud! My sister gets lost EVERY time she comes here. It's been 5 or 6 times so far :D
I really DO want another S14a. I was gutted when I realised how little Steve sold his for! I would have bought it if he hadn't already agreed to sell it to Yeti lol.
Alloy Radiator, downpipe, elbow and decat pipe turned up today. I have another elbow and downpipe doing nothing downstairs... so I reckon I'm commited to the S13 right now.
Damnit, why do I love cars so much?!?!!?! :D
Razzario
08-12-2008, 21:29
took 4 of us to lift the rb25 out of the tranny van :wack:
Big tip, at least have a bar to hoist it on, as just using rope is a bad idea. We would have been better just manhandling it frankly.
Razzario, there are two more cylinders to carry :wack:
Razzario
09-12-2008, 07:00
Big tip, at least have a bar to hoist it on, as just using rope is a bad idea. We would have been better just manhandling it frankly.
Razzario, there are two more cylinders to carry :wack:
and 2 more spark plugs, runners on the inlet manifold and exhaust manifold, coil packs etc :wack:
And the sumframe, etc was all still bolted on :)
Melissa suggested it so will defo do it now, I'm gonna get the engine all cleaned up as it looks like crap right now from just sitting between track days. Since all my nice new shiny bits turned up from DB-Power (Thanks Dan! :thumbs:), really makes me want to try and get the rest of the car sorted in the engine bay department.
Not sure which way round, as I have a complete spare engine now (the old one I mean which I can nick parts off), but I will prob take the cam covers off and get them all pretty with a lick of paint :D May have a go at doing the textured paint thing on them. Maybe treat with heat paint first them spray over the top of that though.
The intercooler pipe work isn't too great but will do for the moment, perhaps need to replace a single short section of pipe though as it is very rusted.
Must get the gearbox off and get the new clutch in :) Which reminds me. I got a clutch line off DB-Power as well, so I'll cut out the dampner pipework which should hopefully give better clutch feel :)
I will keep an eye on this one! ;)
Dont forget the pics :nod:
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=58869&stc=1&d=1231094265
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=58870&stc=1&d=1231094265
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=58871&stc=1&d=1231094265
Not a very good picture unfortunately.. but the flywheel only has little ridges in two places, not sure if it's worth getting it skimmed?
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=58872&stc=1&d=1231094265
Starting work on the engine/gearbox sat in the garage for an hour today. Simply removed the gearbox to change the clutch. Haven't actually put the new clutch on yet as having fun with the release bearing at the moment.
Some of the components look pretty rusty/knackered, so I'm thinking of changing some of them over, although I am bearing in mind that my engine is 154k and the replacement is about 70k, so will have to be careful with what I chose to swap over.
Noticed the cam cover seal is leaking on the rear so will have to sort that out, which I don't mind as I want to replace the cam cover's on the new engine as they look knackered.
john tunner 123
04-01-2009, 19:35
hi mate just wondered what clutch you are going to use as i will be rebuilding my car soon and it needs a new clutch . dont know what bhp yours will be but mines stage 3 about 300brake and you hear so many things about what type and make to use john
For the moment I'm going to be using a sub £100 Exedy standard clutch and pressure plate to replace the original. I bought it from ebay and didn't even know it was an exedy unit till it turned up. Will see how it handles 250 to 300 bhp :) The original clutch seemed to handle the pressure pretty well from what I understand, although if your going over 300 you might want to consider a decent unit such as an rps street max or such.
nitrodave
04-01-2009, 20:06
hello matt, just seen your update, all looking good! i'd highly recommend fitting a decent clutch if you're going for that power. you can still flog your exedy kit on ebay ;) i got an rps max street in the s14 and it's been awesome running 270ish for a couple of years.
just sold my s13 today :( had to do it unfortunately
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