View Full Version : sr20det rebuild for 600 bhp
this is going to be a total highish spec rebuild and i would be grateful of any advice
spec
87mm cp pistons
darton liners
pauter X beam rods
mains and big ends..........acl race
full replacement oil pump casing as well
fully ported and flowed head
1mm oversize brian crower stainless valves
new valve guides
tomei solid lifters
new rocker arms
brian crower 264' ..........cams changed to tomei 270 solid lifter cams
brian crower valve spring and titanium retainers
adjustable cam sprockets...greddy
..............Greddy Rocker Arm Stoppers
new cam chain, guides and tensioner
knife edged crank fully balanced with act flywheel and clutch
arp head and mains studs
..............ATI harmonic pully
2mm cometic hc
the engine is striped and at the machine shop [chesman enginerring]awaiting a chemical clean but as soon as i get it back i will post pics of the build and ask questions:nod:
:eek:
ill be watching this :D good luck mate, dont forget piccies :thumbs:
armracing
29-08-2007, 17:55
good luck with this i was going 550bhp with a SR with Jez`s help but changed my mind went RB route as SR lump to produce that was costing alot of money and wouldnt be as strong as a RB.
Well good luck anyway :thumbs:
Good luck hope it all goes to plan:thumbs:
Looks very good, which turbo are you going for and have you considered things like a twin Scroll setup from the US?
One question is why have you gone for 87mm pistons, if you can I would go for 86.5mm giving you some wiggle room if things go wrong in the future and keeping the liners that bit thinker?
Looks very good, which turbo are you going for and have you considered things like a twin Scroll setup from the US?
One question is why have you gone for 87mm pistons, if you can I would go for 86.5mm giving you some wiggle room if things go wrong in the future and keeping the liners that bit thinker?
darton liners are good to 90mm:nod: :D
turbo, i don't know yet, will keep my gt2871r and the power down to start as im going to build a new topmount manifold with a t3/t4 flange and external wastegate and change the cams to 272's
darton liners are good to 90mm:nod: :D
So busy looking for the turbo I missed them, 87 is all good then (just hope you dont have the same problem as others when fitting liners
So busy looking for the turbo I missed them, 87 is all good then (just hope you dont have the same problem as others when fitting liners
chesman engineering has lot of experience with both dry and wet liners sr20 being dry but the bottom section of the liner needs to be sealed with loctite:nod:
Good luck with the liners - they're a pain in the arse, even with loctite...
Good luck with the liners - they're a pain in the arse, even with loctite...
the engineer at chesman thinks the problem is water leaking from the bottom of the liner wher you aply the loctite, i will drop a bottle of this in http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Heater-Matrix-Rad-Radiator-Gasket-weld-STOP-LEAK-Audi_W0QQitemZ130102461743QQihZ003QQcategoryZ72205 QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
Contains lubrication additives + Contains anti-corrosion additives:nod:
the engineer at chesman thinks the problem is water leaking from the bottom of the liner wher you aply the loctite, i will drop a bottle of this in http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Heater-Matrix-Rad-Radiator-Gasket-weld-STOP-LEAK-Audi_W0QQitemZ130102461743QQihZ003QQcategoryZ72205 QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
Contains lubrication additives + Contains anti-corrosion additives:nod:
LOL :D
all i read there is marketing bullshit. if your going for big numbers do not rely on chem weld shit seriously get yourself a jun stroker kit or a tomei stroker kit for the engine.
Do it once do it right.
all i read there is marketing bullshit. if your going for big numbers do not rely on chem weld shit seriously get yourself a jun stroker kit or a tomei stroker kit for the engine.
Do it once do it right.
sorry i have a very ''DRY'' sense of humor, i have every confidence in my machine shop getting it right
Have you bought all the parts for your build yet?
Have you bought all the parts for your build yet?
yes from the USA, 2k worth [properly nearer 3k:o ]
never mind then, if you hadn't ordered then I would have hooked up with you to save on shipping as I'm going to be looking for a similar list soon :)
never mind then, if you hadn't ordered then I would have hooked up with you to save on shipping as I'm going to be looking for a similar list soon :)
http://stores.ebay.com:80/Erics-Performance-Parts
http://ericsperformanceparts.com
very good to deal with and can get anything
thanks, had already spotted them (got them in my watch list to remind me)
how were the delivery times / service etc?
ex-ctr go with ACL race series although you need to alter the main bearing oil way slightly.
Also you might need to put a stainless steel ring in to stop the head gasket giving up the ghost too quickly ;) Apart from that the spec looks good and very similar to my own aladins cave of parts.
Jeffers_S13
31-08-2007, 14:55
[QUOTE=ex-ctr;3494017]chesman engineering has lot of experience with both dry and wet linersQUOTE]
:nod: It seems that everytime I go to Chesman, Andy is putting liners in something ! always stacks of V8 blocks with liners in, ready to be machined.
got my cranks back today [one is for sale] they ballanced them both and the one im using had an ACT flywheel then clutch balanced on it and both needed no metal removing as they where spot on
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//DSC00809.JPG
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//DSC00810.JPG
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//DSC00811.JPG
how much did that cost / what you looking for the crank? looks lush.
how much did that cost / what you looking for the crank? looks lush.
i do have 2 people interested :nod:
the cranks was tested to see how true it was/journals state then crack tested, knife edged, journal's polished then balanced:nod:
fixup1982
09-09-2007, 20:36
OMG.!!!! seen this project in action today and i can say this cars gunna be awesome when it hits the road next spring. good luck with it and keep us posted :sxoc:
paul :thumbs:
OMG.!!!! seen this project in action today and i can say this cars gunna be awesome when it hits the road next spring. good luck with it and keep us posted :sxoc:
paul :thumbs:
:D i have learnt one thing:nod: never say your not in a rush to your machine shop:wack: :D
at least i have the z32 bell-housing back with drifters converter plate fitted so i can put that back together:nod:
I have heard that if not installed properly the sleeves shift? I have heard Andreas Miko doing a step sleeve, meaning grooving the sleeve so they cannot move/shift in the block.
got theblock back and rods/pistons and thought i would add it all up 3.5k with the machining work:eek:
j_veitch
18-10-2007, 12:10
:D i have learnt one thing:nod: never say your not in a rush to your machine shop:wack: :D
Looking interesting. I learnt that one ^ ^ too :annoyed:
- James
Looking interesting. I learnt that one ^ ^ too :annoyed:
- James
im going to post up some pics later of the block but my camera an old sony cyber-shot seems to struggle with close ups they turn out blured:nod:
yeah thats a big no no to say to any car related thing ive found over the years lol,
its just an excuse for them to leave it in the corner and do other things first,
just doing same coversion at the moment all parts so far costs about 8000pounds but should be good power at the end
picking up the head tomorrow and will start its build up with the tomei solid lifter kit, im dropping the new cam followers in for grinding as per jap instructions, pics to follow tomorrow i can even do a side by side port shot [with a standard head]to show how much work has been done:nod:
a few crap pics, i need a better camera:nod:
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//DSC00841.JPG
you may be able to see that the gas flowing of the head allows straighter flow of the gasses from the head
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//DSC00853.JPG
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//DSC00843.JPG
don't know if you can see but theres no ridge where the valve seat meets the head
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//DSC00847.JPG
again these are very bad pics and i need a new camera so any advice on a good £100 ish camera would be great:)
how much did it cost, chesham eng.??
how much did it cost, chesham eng.??
you need to give andy a call to get a deal:nod:
David Reid
05-12-2007, 16:39
That head looks really nice :)
That head looks really nice :)
:thumbs: it needed skimming by 0.25mm to get it flat:eek: im just installing the valves now i need to get the test shims in so i can order replacements:nod:
:thumbs: it needed skimming by 0.25mm to get it flat:eek: im just installing the valves now i need to get the test shims in so i can order replacements:nod:
get yourself a metal HG to sort out the compression ratio mate, shouldnt be too much of a problem tho.
get yourself a metal HG to sort out the compression ratio mate, shouldnt be too much of a problem tho.
got a 2mm thk cometic:nod:
update and a new camera:)
darton linners fitted, went for a tighter fit so could not coat them with the loctite sealer suplied as the linners where cryo-freezed and the block heated which would have distroyed the loctite, the rings in the bores are there as i have gaped them:nod:
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//RIMG0005.JPG
so as the sleave is reduced for the last 25mm i used loctite 648 which was sucked into the 7 thou gap as fast as i could apply it:nod:
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//RIMG0002.JPG
crank mains plastigauged at below 1.5 thou clearence:nod:
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//RIMG0001.JPG
block painted and tomei remote filter adapter fitted
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//RIMG0003.JPG
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//RIMG0004.JPG
tomei 270 x 12.5 sl cams in so i can measure for shims [tomei solid lifters]
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//RIMG0006.JPG
pics of polished exhaust and milled inlet ports
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//RIMG0008.JPG
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//RIMG0010.JPG
picks of 1mm over size s/s valves
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//RIMG0007.JPG
Jeffers_S13
21-12-2007, 14:00
Looking good, what tool did you use to adjust the ring gaps ? Have you got a special grinder or did you make something ? Ive seen hand operated ones and also ones that use a dremel but I imagine you could easily take too much off with something like that ?
What size fittings are used on the Tomei outlet plate..???
Looking good, what tool did you use to adjust the ring gaps ? Have you got a special grinder or did you make something ? Ive seen hand operated ones and also ones that use a dremel but I imagine you could easily take too much off with something like that ?
got a hand ring grinder from the usa, great bit of kit if you need to borrow it, fitted the standard pain in the arse cp clips in the pistons, found if you push the open end in first pointing towards the crown of the piston they just pop in:nod:
What size fittings are used on the Tomei outlet plate..???
i used the fittings from brens [apex] remote filter kit:nod: the standard one suplied where bigger :nod: no idea on size
Looks good.
I like that Tomei plate, I would have fitted one of those to mine if I had know they were available, must save 0.5kg or something!:nod::smash:
Looks good.
I like that Tomei plate, I would have fitted one of those to mine if I had know they were available, must save 0.5kg or something!:nod::smash:
i want a clean engine, even got a electric power steering pump, the tomei plate was around £90 delivered:nod:
Darkside7
21-12-2007, 15:57
this 1's gonna b quick
this 1's gonna b quick
hope so, its cost 3.5k in parts and machining and i got the parts cheep:nod:
Fake Ben Taylor
22-12-2007, 06:14
right then im gonna be uber stupid here an ive asked before but still dont fully understand....
when you check the clearences with plastigauge why do you do it? i ask the machine shop to check the rod ends/main caps and the crank for roundness and size and they tell me if its all ok and what size bearings to get.......or am i missing something??
right then im gonna be uber stupid here an ive asked before but still dont fully understand....
when you check the clearences with plastigauge why do you do it? i ask the machine shop to check the rod ends/main caps and the crank for roundness and size and they tell me if its all ok and what size bearings to get.......or am i missing something??
mine where checked to but when tou fit arp studs you torque them down a lot more than standard which can make a difference in clearence, also its good to know that all is ok when its bolted together :nod: also mistakes are made and to find a knock when its all together and running is a bit of a pain so spending an evening with some plastigage and a torque wrench can save a lot of :cry: latter on:nod:
Fake Ben Taylor
22-12-2007, 07:02
mine where checked to but when tou fit arp studs you torque them down a lot more than standard which can make a difference in clearence, also its good to know that all is ok when its bolted together :nod: also mistakes are made and to find a knock when its all together and running is a bit of a pain so spending an evening with some plastigage and a torque wrench can save a lot of :cry: latter on:nod:
ah i see:nod::thumbs:.....my rods have arp studs so i think ill have to be getting myself some plastigauge:thumbs:
hope so, its cost 3.5k in parts and machining and i got the parts cheep:nod:
Thats the price off a stage 1 nd or apt engine:eek:
Really coming togather:thumbs:
done a little more but finding time is hard over christmas
fitted pistons, rings where caped as per CP instructions
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//RIMG0011.JPG
the pauter rods where where checked for big end and side play all where within spec and torqued down
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//RIMG0012.JPG
all bearings coated in this stuff, gets every where [pistons fitted dry ]
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//RIMG0013.JPG
the mains will be torqued down again tomorrow and over the next few days much rebuilding will be done
nice mate, i have always used that graphogen stuff, seems to do the job but it seems to be a little frowned upon by engine shops as it removes the ability to feel for any crap in the bearings,
i just go for the ''make sure everything is maticulously clean'' method and just use it to be safe anyway lol,
you say you have paid 3.5k so far for this engine build, just shows you how much you can save by doing it yourself doesnt it, a friend of mine paid 12k for someone to build him an engine for his rally car (basically the best you can get in NA form)
just a quick Q, ive seen these CP pistons about a few times, im assuming your rating them quite well given the spec of this engine, its just they seem to be the cheapest out of all the pistons ive looked at??? what made you choose them??
sorry if i sound like a fool but what is- crank mains plastigauged at below 1.5 thou clearence:confused::confused::confused::confused:
sorry if i sound like a fool but what is- crank mains plastigauged at below 1.5 thou clearence:confused::confused::confused::confused:
theres much debate on whats a good clearence for the main bearings nissan sa no more than 2 thou, some usa tuners say 2.5-3 thou, mine are around 1.5 thou but bigger gap means more oil flow so less pressure
nice mate, i have always used that graphogen stuff, seems to do the job but it seems to be a little frowned upon by engine shops as it removes the ability to feel for any crap in the bearings,
i just go for the ''make sure everything is maticulously clean'' method and just use it to be safe anyway lol,
you say you have paid 3.5k so far for this engine build, just shows you how much you can save by doing it yourself doesnt it, a friend of mine paid 12k for someone to build him an engine for his rally car (basically the best you can get in NA form)
just a quick Q, ive seen these CP pistons about a few times, im assuming your rating them quite well given the spec of this engine, its just they seem to be the cheapest out of all the pistons ive looked at??? what made you choose them??
the yanks like them, i know of there use in other makes of engine and know them as well made:nod: only thing is you need to gap the rings your self and this includes the oil scraper rings expander:nod:
you say you have paid 3.5k so far for this engine build, just shows you how much you can save by doing it yourself doesnt it, a friend of mine paid 12k for someone to build him an engine for his rally car (basically the best you can get in NA form)
:eek:They must of seen him coming.
I paid £1200 for a race engine builder to do mine plus parts. I make that a 90% saving:D
CTR when do you think this will be finished?
:eek:They must of seen him coming.
I paid £1200 for a race engine builder to do mine plus parts. I make that a 90% saving:D
CTR when do you think this will be finished?
a week or so for the engine as im not rushing it and i check every thing 10 times:nod: get advice on this forum if im in any dought, the rest of the car will be 3-4 months:nod:
Supraman
27-12-2007, 13:05
Very very nice thread mate :thumbs:
I always asked people on "How to fit some aftermarket cylinder sleeves (liners)", and they always answered me something different lol And now I know :thumbs:
And the Tomei remote filter adapter is super!!! But why you didn't keep the original oil cooler, in addition to an external oil cooler and filter relocation kit ??
And good luck for measuring the shims/guides sizes for the Tomei solid lifters/cams :wack: or good luck at all ;)
Very very nice thread mate :thumbs:
I always asked people on "How to fit some aftermarket cylinder sleeves (liners)", and they always answered me something different lol And now I know :thumbs:
And the Tomei remote filter adapter is super!!! But why you didn't keep the original oil cooler, in addition to an external oil cooler and filter relocation kit ??
And good luck for measuring the shims/guides sizes for the Tomei solid lifters/cams :wack: or good luck at all ;)
your 17 and have done so much, had a good look at your thread:nod:, i removed the cooler as its not required as im making my own cooling system using DAVIES CRAIG water pumps :nod:
:eek:They must of seen him coming.
I paid £1200 for a race engine builder to do mine plus parts. I make that a 90% saving:D
CTR when do you think this will be finished?
nope, it was a propper engine build, a no holds barred engine build on an MI16 pug 205 rally car.
ive not seen an engine as well built or as thought out as it ever, and other than WRC cars i probably wont again. (closest comparison i can think of)
it also took over a year to build to get everything as exact as the builder wanted to.
tbh that cost is quite common for something as good as that.
i mean, look at the cost of these parts on this engine build so far, 3.5k. and the headwork was done by him.
if you had an established race engine builder port and gas flow the head for you then thats over a grand in itself for a propper job.
then you have
machining of head to take larger lifters
machining of rocker covers to clear the cam lobes that are so big they hit the castings
making of custom flywheel as builder was not happy with any aftermarket one on the market
making of custom liners as builder was not happy with any on the market.
custom grinding of a cam to the bilders spec as there is not one lairy enough on the market.
etc etc etc.
it makes a massive difference when you get someone else to do all the development and building of a highly developed race engine, which is why i love watching builds like this where people are having a go for themselves, very impressive :)
nope, it was a propper engine build, a no holds barred engine build on an MI16 pug 205 rally car.
ive not seen an engine as well built or as thought out as it ever, and other than WRC cars i probably wont again. (closest comparison i can think of)
it also took over a year to build to get everything as exact as the builder wanted to.
tbh that cost is quite common for something as good as that.
i mean, look at the cost of these parts on this engine build so far, 3.5k. and the headwork was done by him.
if you had an established race engine builder port and gas flow the head for you then thats over a grand in itself for a propper job.
then you have
machining of head to take larger lifters
machining of rocker covers to clear the cam lobes that are so big they hit the castings
making of custom flywheel as builder was not happy with any aftermarket one on the market
making of custom liners as builder was not happy with any on the market.
custom grinding of a cam to the bilders spec as there is not one lairy enough on the market.
etc etc etc.
it makes a massive difference when you get someone else to do all the development and building of a highly developed race engine, which is why i love watching builds like this where people are having a go for themselves, very impressive :)
chesman ported my head:nod:
it looks like a nice job, was it flow tested???
head and block going together
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//RIMG0055.JPG
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//RIMG0053.JPG
all cleaned and ready to bolt together which im doing now:D
Looking very good mate!
Those valves look familiar :D
S13 EATER
29-12-2007, 12:15
nice project :thumbs:, i was at chesmans 2 weeks ago, they are boring my fj20 block, lightening and balancing the crower rods,wiseco pistons,gudgeon pins, front pulley, i'am also having the crank knife edged and balanced, they are making me a custom flywheel to take a rb25 paddle clutch, i may also get them to do the bronze valve guides as well. andy @ AMT engines has used them since there imp tuning days and would'nt go anywhere else.
Looking very good mate!
Those valves look familiar :D
is yours running yet:)
is yours running yet:)
Spoke to my mechanic, should be ready in around 2 weeks if my cams are in at Apex!
Can't wait :thumbs:
nice project... that graphite paste looks very nice and good thing...
is it running allready ?
Where did you get your valve guides from and who fitted them?
Where did you get your valve guides from and who fitted them?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SR20DET-Valve-Guides-Intake-Exhaust-Nissan-S13-S14_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33621QQihZ008QQitem Z180172113311QQtcZphoto
http://www.chesmanengineering.co.uk/
:)
R360-200SX
24-05-2008, 23:00
hows this thread going? any update? ive similar spec using hks stroker and 272 cams etc, nice work
hows this thread going? any update? ive similar spec using hks stroker and 272 cams etc, nice work
im working 7 days a week for 2 months on a shut down :( but the moneys good;)
the heads gone back to chesman to have the squash areas removed, theres mixed ideas about this being either good or bad, im running 2.5 to 3 x the standard power and at these levels the squash areas redundent and might even enhance det as the right angle edge over heat at high boost and preignite the incomming charge, anyway chesman choped open one of my scrap heads to see what material could be removed safely:nod:
pen shows material to be removed
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//RIMG0264.JPG
what out if your porting your exhast as you dont have loads of metal to play with [right side of pic 8mm wall thickness:eek:
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//RIMG0267.JPG
i better leave the porting to andy then :eek:
the engine has been steam cleaned after machining at 2000 psi the blown through at 150 psi then vacumed and one last go to make sure nothings in the oil ways
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//RIMG0294.JPG
head all clean
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//RIMG0297.JPG
block clean
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//RIMG0295.JPG
tommei head gasket and arp bolts
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//RIMG0296.JPG
head rested in place and new uprated chain fitted along with new guides
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//RIMG0299.JPG
Supraman
31-07-2008, 18:37
Very nice :thumbs: Come on, you're slow :wack: lol ;)
Very nice :thumbs: Come on, you're slow :wack: lol ;)
if i was as young as you i would:D i think your doing a fantastic job with being so young:nod: never had turbos when i was your age my first project was a morris minor:wack: the engine was dead so me and my dad fitted a ford cross flow engine and gearbox and it went like feck:nod: i was 16 :)
Were erics performance able to get you a uprated gasket for the head ? And did you get stung by taxman coming into the uk ? PM if you wish :)
pauter rods, cp pistons arp studs darton lines oil pump and many other parts from eric the head gasket http://sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=360437
tax was nill for the hg and out of 2-3k of parts about £300 in tax all parts where in small batches not all in one go
Good work mate! :sxoc:
When running 3 times the standard engine power and considering the levels you have gone to, you thought of trying this:
http://www.evanscooling.com/html/npgPls.htm
Might help in getting rid of some of the heat you'll be producing!
Also, before fitting new injectors, get them cleaned mate.
I have been speaking to Ryan over at 2 Bar Tuning (top chap btw) about mapping my PFC with some 800cc injectors. I told him that I had a set of brand new SARD 800cc injectors, still boxed and bagged up.
He advised me that i get them cleaned and flow tested before fitting. I questioned it (its more money after all ) and he mentioned that he has seen lower power figures and poor results (early onset of det etc) with out of the box injectors. I had a search and found these dudes http://www.asnu.com/ . One quick phone call later and I was pointed in the direction of my local injector cleaning chap.
It was £15 per injector plus VAT for flow testing, cleaning and a result sheet (£70.50 all in). Quite a lot of money for brand new injectors right? But was it worth it? Hell yeah!
Of the four, 2 had no flow at all and the other 2 had poor spray pattern (would have mostly soaked the walls rather than spray where they are meant too!) and poor flow.
Post cleaning, all four have perfect spray pattern and equal flow. So now Ryan will have no nasty surprises when mapping (individual cylinder trims for example) and I should have a much better chance of a good, safe, powerful and torquey map.
Just a thought, you don't want something as simple as that jepardising all your hard work and money outlay so far!
Good work mate! :sxoc:
When running 3 times the standard engine power and considering the levels you have gone to, you thought of trying this:
http://www.evanscooling.com/html/npgPls.htm
Might help in getting rid of some of the heat you'll be producing!
Also, before fitting new injectors, get them cleaned mate.
I have been speaking to Ryan over at 2 Bar Tuning (top chap btw) about mapping my PFC with some 800cc injectors. I told him that I had a set of brand new SARD 800cc injectors, still boxed and bagged up.
He advised me that i get them cleaned and flow tested before fitting. I questioned it (its more money after all ) and he mentioned that he has seen lower power figures and poor results (early onset of det etc) with out of the box injectors. I had a search and found these dudes http://www.asnu.com/ . One quick phone call later and I was pointed in the direction of my local injector cleaning chap.
It was £15 per injector plus VAT for flow testing, cleaning and a result sheet (£70.50 all in). Quite a lot of money for brand new injectors right? But was it worth it? Hell yeah!
Of the four, 2 had no flow at all and the other 2 had poor spray pattern (would have mostly soaked the walls rather than spray where they are meant too!) and poor flow.
Post cleaning, all four have perfect spray pattern and equal flow. So now Ryan will have no nasty surprises when mapping (individual cylinder trims for example) and I should have a much better chance of a good, safe, powerful and torquey map.
Just a thought, you don't want something as simple as that jepardising all your hard work and money outlay so far!
thanks:thumbs: i have ditched the standard pump and will be using a duel set up from here http://www.daviescraig.com.au/main/display.asp?pid=47
uprated rad and was looking into anti boil coolant:nod: also having the injectors tested is a good idea:)
I have just finished running in a s14 with all the goodies you have.I had one issue with the head in that the hydrallic tappet came through the head wall where the ports was so large.This was sorted and the engine is perfect i have just been out mapping the car but the bhp and torque are amazing.The only problem we have now is running the engine at 1.20 bar of boost kills your gearbox no problem at all.So we will be fitting a 5 speed os kit very soon.
Of the four, 2 had no flow at all and the other 2 had poor spray pattern (would have mostly soaked the walls rather than spray where they are meant too!) and poor flow.
Sounds like rubbish to me - 2 out of 4 with no flow!! Jesus. I mean, I'd be sending the injectors back to the trader if 50% of my injectors didn't flow fuel. What exactly was cleaned out of them to get them back to perfect flow? :confused:
I have just finished running in a s14 with all the goodies you have.I had one issue with the head in that the hydrallic tappet came through the head wall where the ports was so large.This was sorted and the engine is perfect i have just been out mapping the car but the bhp and torque are amazing.The only problem we have now is running the engine at 1.20 bar of boost kills your gearbox no problem at all.So we will be fitting a 5 speed os kit very soon.
i see what you mean about the hla on the intake side:eek: look at the top lhs of the head and you can see where the hla sits and its about 4-5 mm thich:eek:
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//RIMG0267.JPG
The trouble is how far to go when flowing your head but now you can see the thickness of the head i think its best to remove minimum at the top of the port to be safe.Now we have sorted the head problem the car runs fine with good results,cant wait to get gearbox done and power run it.
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