My 200 Project

[Shaziman]

Hi all,

I will start right from the start, i.e. about a year ago when i first bought my 200.
Alot will be an am***amation fom my other posts, but at least its all in one place!

Well after taking all your opinions, i bought this one: for 265 quid! Next MOT!
http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/6694/dsc000039po.jpg
As i picked it up. Parked like this for the last 9 months.
http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/1883/dsc000048ud.jpg
The only major damage on the car. Doesn't affect the operation of the headlamp, so i wasn't bothered.
http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/1802/dsc000052wp.jpg
Rear tailgate/spoiler rust 1
http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/6201/dsc000063fw.jpg
Rear tailgate/spoiler rust 2, and cracked reflector panel. (Not major)
http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/7412/dsc000071ey.jpg
Interior, only a bit of mould on the steering wheel and handbrake lever.
http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/5066/dsc000085wt.jpg
Engine Bay
http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/1518/dsc000096hx.jpg
After my Valet efforts! front
http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/9233/dsc000104vu.jpg
AFter my valet efforts! rear.

It runs sweet as a nut. I took it out for a quick spin, apparently its running 210 bhp, and still on the t25 turbo. After MOT, i shall look at how much its boosting to, and adjust accordingly. I couldn't do it on the run i just did, as the boost gauge is in the ashtray, and on winding country roads, its a bit risky, with no MOT, Tax or Insurance!

AFter the bargain car had the paint work all mopped and polished, glass cleaned and generally valeted, here we go...

http://img71.imageshack.us/img71/3460/dsc000462xg.jpg
http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/1073/dsc000470ak.jpg
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/3562/dsc000483ci.jpg
http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/6770/dsc000493xm.jpg
http://img105.imageshack.us/img105/4145/dsc000504wb.jpg

[Shaziman]

Check these pics out!

This was the altenator adjuster before:
http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/5035/altbefore8hh.jpg
This it after the inevitable and the solution: (Got away with it!)
http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/8624/altafter1hu.jpg
Timing belt once the cover was taken off:
http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/3338/timingbelt13mh.jpg
How lose did that look, now see how lose it really was: (we took the belt of without undoing the tensioner!)
http://img371.imageshack.us/img371/732/timingbeltafter0gh.jpg
Crank pulley as we began to take it off!:
http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/1831/crankpulley17fn.jpg
The green arrows show where the pulley began to break due it being so rotten that its now brittle. The yellow arrow shows how accurately the previous owner/garage set up TDC, its actually at TDC in the pic!

How lucky am I? I have a feeling that the slapping type noise, which has since disappeared, was the belt being held on by the cover. Its unbelievable that the belt hadn't jumped teeth on the pulleys and messed the timing up totally. The timing was out, but by 1 tooth at max, and the engine ran very sweetly before, but much better now! :)

WANTED:
CA18DET Crank Pulley, not rotten.
CA18DET Altenator adjuster bolt.

[Shaziman]

After buying my very cheap s13, i attempted a journey to devon in it, and to my surprise, it drove well, no smoke, no strange noises, and also good fuel economy.

So when i got back, i thought i'd have a go at the rust on the tailgate, as trying to find a non rusty one is near on an impossibility.

So here are my pics of progress at the end of day 1:

Original:
http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/7707/original4qw.jpg

All holes after grinding:
http://img364.imageshack.us/img364/3918/allaftergrinding5jm.jpg

All holes during rust treatment:
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/5710/allduringrusttreatment8pm.jpg

Mesh being supported for fibreglassing:
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/6376/meshsupport0lu.jpg

After Fibreglassing:
http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/5065/afterfibregalss7aq.jpg

After Filler:
http://img399.imageshack.us/img399/258/filler5xx.jpg

End of day 1:
http://img399.imageshack.us/img399/6966/endofday12db.jpg

Right, after removing the primer i put on and flatting the surface to make it nice and smooth, this is what i was left with:
http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/3872/dsc000395mp.jpg

Then after a good couple of coats of primer:

http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/9876/dsc000406pz.jpg

Finally, i finished it!

The decal cover up
http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/2585/dsc000429hh.jpg

After Paint
http://img482.imageshack.us/img482/8835/dsc000437lz.jpg

The NISSAN letters after paint
http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/9423/dsc000447bb.jpg

Wiper motor hole, how appropriate!
http://img482.imageshack.us/img482/502/dsc000457zr.jpg

[Shaziman]

Was looking for a guide as how to remove the Rear Subframe Bushes, but to no avail, so here is my guide.

The Guide contains several different methods that can be used, but most pic's are here.

Anyway, after removing the subframe, you need to follow one of the methods outlined below: (please beware that you will need several hacksaw blades, new ones, and also may go through many tools. I had the advantage of getting someone else to do the hard work while i supervised, and also had air tools to assist. Trust me with this, these are the most difficult bushes that i have ever removed, and also the guys that i worked with on this are very experienced, but also were amased at how hard these were. Be glad that you can remove the subframe off the car, or they would actualy be impossible!)

Method 1:

Insert a Hacksaw blade or use a reciprocating saw to cut a slot from the middle through to the outside metal area. Redo this so that the end of the cut on the outer part is approx 1cm away from the previous cut. Then remove the cut section and then beat the bush out.
Beware, when working with the bushes that sit more forward when on the car contain a black and clear 'goo' which stinks when it burns and also covers the subframe and everything around them. Its easy to clean off, but just an added hassle, so position a bucket or something under the bush before you work on it. This method is better suited to the front bushes.

Method 2:

Burn them out! Get a Blow torch or an oxy acetelene torch and burn out the rubber part. With it should come out the inner metal section.

Then burn a huge chunk out of the outer metal part so that a bit is missing and again beat it out with a chisel or a screwdriver.

Method 3:

Get a screwdriver/chisel and begin by hitting the edge of the bush and attempt to push the area in towards the middle. Do about 60 degrees of the whole section and then as you arfe beating it, you will find that the bush is begining to move. Then beat it out and it should come out.

This method is better suited to the bushes at the back of the car.

Some pics of me doing my Bushes...

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/shaziman/DSC00115.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/shaziman/DSC00116.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/shaziman/DSC00117.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/shaziman/DSC00119.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/shaziman/DSC00118.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/shaziman/DSC00120.jpg

More coming in the next few days!

[Shaziman]

A couple of weeks work...
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/shaziman/DSC00123.jpg
My new subframe with Powerflex Poly Bushes in them.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/shaziman/DSC00124.jpg
The car on the ramp with the rust patches all cut out and the first 'over rail' welded to the car.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/shaziman/DSC00125.jpg
The rot at the front which i will tackle at a later date as i have to do headgasket and turbo, so the engine will come out to treat whole engine bay.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/shaziman/DSC00126.jpg
Different view of the same.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/shaziman/DSC00127.jpg
Sump before, was quite bad, thought that if i touched it that it would have rotted through, but did it anyway with a paint stripping tool on the end of a grinder and a great deal of care.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/shaziman/DSC00128.jpg
Sump after, put loads of rust treatment on it and then two coats of hammerite smooth gloss black and it came up like new.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/shaziman/DSC00130.jpg
Old subframe off, loads of bolts sheared of here, but managed to sort it!
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/shaziman/DSC00131.jpg
Subframe close up and of diff...I was told by a certain member of the southampton guys, shall remain nameless...that the change of the diff's from a S13 to an S14a diff is a straight swap, oh how wrong you were! Need to swap backplates and also the mounting bolts need same bushes in them as i think the bolts have solid bushes on the 14. Ended up using oversize bushes from an impreza anti-roll bar drop link!
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/shaziman/DSC00132.jpg
Picture of the whole of the underneath rustproofed, but not the tank! New copper brake lines as well.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/shaziman/DSC00134.jpg
Two subframes side-by-side.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/shaziman/DSC00133.jpg
Internal differences between the two diff's 14a on the right.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/shaziman/DSC00135.jpg
New subframe going on.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/shaziman/DSC00136.jpg
New subframe in situ.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/shaziman/DSC00137.jpg
Final pic of the subframe fitted!

[blue boy]

good work going on here.

[Parker]

Wow, top work mate. Glad to see you've been busy with the car as well as getting a 1st ;) :clap:

[Shaziman]

Wow, top work mate. Glad to see you've been busy with the car as well as getting a 1st ;) :clap:

Now how did you find that out???

[Parker]

;)

[xborninthefight]

dam dude thats looking nice.
Where did you get the subframe from

[STEDY]

Good work mate keep up the good work:thumbs: keep the pics coming!

[Shaziman]

dam dude thats looking nice.
Where did you get the subframe from

Bought a standard one second hand from the board, then had it shotblast and primed. the rest as above!