Comprehensive S14a refurb

[Petrol]

Index now added.

I have tried to explain as much techie info as I can in this thread. If you are unsure of anything please feel free to ask or PM me but make sure you have read the whole thread first :thumbs:

Some of these topics span several pages but as a rough guide.....

Subframe off

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=2


Removing fuel tank

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=4


Rust in arch seams

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=5


Rust removal

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=7


Boot carpet refurb

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=16


Box section wax inside of subframe

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=25

Back of shell painted and stonechipped

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=26

Plating guide

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=28


Rear suspension assembly

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=31


Door handle removal

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=40


Engine bay strip down

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=43


Engine bay parts refurbished

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=45

Prepping fibreglass for paint

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=47


Engine and gearbox out

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=55

Bling rocker cover

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=65

Some engine pics

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=70

Front suspension removal

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=72

Engine bay cleanup

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=79


Engine and gearbox back in

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=95

Almost finished. Lots of pics

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=108


Suppliers

Electrox primer, Deox rust remover, Dynax box section wax
http://www.bilthamber.com/

Xylene to thin Electrox primer
http://www.anti-slip-paint.co.uk/xylene-litre-p-31.html

Plating stuff, plastic brushes, alloy cleaner
http://www.frost.co.uk/

Stainless hose clips - New supplier - (Stagonset is now westfieldfasteners )
http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk


Small stainless hose clips
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/SAMCO-HOSE-Hose-Clips/c16_17/p6843/STAINLESS-NARROW-HOSE-CLIP-11-19mm/product_info.html?osCsid=856788c496a8894a794fb9a02 d79335d

Stainless metric fine nuts and bolts. (1.25 pitch)
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/WVS-FASTENERS

High temp paint
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=NIM1004

3M stonechip (underseal) Type in "3M black shutz" in the search window. You can also phone them.
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Car-Spares

S14a this time but Lynxy is doing all the work :notworthy :thumbs:

Got the stands under the subby at the mo. Can't see where the best place is to support the shell to drop it :(

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/022.jpg

It's not too bad for 10 years old

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/023.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/024.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/025.jpg


Surface rust where the back panel joins the boot floor


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/026.jpg

Tow eye

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/027.jpg

Tanks full of gas and this strap has to come off

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/030.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/028.jpg


ARB is a bit of a mess

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/029.jpg


Arch seams are fine

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/031.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/032.jpg

[Petrol]

Apprentice :thumbs:


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/033.jpg


OS arch

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/034.jpg

Nuts to remove rear bumper inside rear 1/4

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/035.jpg


Bumper off

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/036.jpg


Anyone know a good place for galvanising?

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/037.jpg

[adam0bmx0]

Poor young Lynxy having to clean that lot, looks an absoulute mess! You bad man Petrol! :whip:

The poor boy is going to be worked to the bone! :censored:





























And yes, that was sarcasm!! :D

I wish mine looked like that to start with! lol :D

[Django67]

That looks amazingly clean to begin with.

Fancy swapping it with mine so that you have a proper challenge? :)

[ian19blue]

looks pretty good condition to me :nod:

[Petrol]

Poor young Lynxy having to clean that lot, looks an absoulute mess! You bad man Petrol! :whip:



You made me feel guilty so I took the diffy pump and rad off – lots of 10mm bolts :D

When it was jacked up I also thought that it looked pretty clean and had second thoughts about stripping it. When I look at the rust pile though, I am glad that we started :) I guess when the subby is off, this pile will be a mountain :D

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/039.jpg


Diff cooler pump is a real mess :eek:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/038.jpg

[_James_]

I went to remove mine when I did the diff oil, loads of rusted on 10mm. Shear-heaven I thought. How much does the cooler weigh? What top you block the pipes with? Sorry to go off topic a bit!

[Petrol]

I just took the pipes off and drained the fluid into a bucket. Still need to drain the oil out of the diff before the subframe assembly is removed. The pump and radiator weigh very little really :nod:

If anyone has any questions, please don't hesitate to fire away :thumbs: Comments and suggestions are, as always, more than welcome :)
I am sure I will be asking lots of questions and all :sxoc:

[Chem200]

I will be watching this thread with great interest :nod: Keep up the good work :thumbs:

[pdh 14a]

:eek: This is going to be good :notworthy
Why do it now though Pete with the summer coming:confused: surely this should be a winter project :thumbs:

[JJ]

:eek: This is going to be good :notworthy
Why do it now though Pete with the summer coming:confused: surely this should be a winter project :thumbs:

Its more pleasant to work on the car is suppose now :D Better with 20 degrees than with -10 degrees :indiff:

Looking good mate :thumbs: keep it up ;)

[Lynxy]

i look so cool undoing the wheel nut :D :wack:

[JJ]

i look so cool undoing the wheel nut :D :wack:

clean aswell :D :D

[Parker]

i look so cool undoing the wheel nut :D :wack:

:ghey: :p

[Si]

I went to remove mine when I did the diff oil, loads of rusted on 10mm. Shear-heaven I thought. How much does the cooler weigh? What top you block the pipes with? Sorry to go off topic a bit!

Just loop the pipes :thumbs: use one of them and reconnect it to the other outlet :)

Weighs a bit, say 4/5kgs guesstimate?

[tej]

OT: where did you get that rain cover from? :)

[archenemy.co.uk]

I'd be much more interested/worried about sills (inside)

What did you decide to do about them Petrol, as I last remember with the S13 you were considering them...........

:)

[SM]

Is it summer already, footy is still on :p

[Ramps]

Those bits only looks rusty because they aren't covered in crud like 95% of ours are :wack:

[Petrol]

I'd be much more interested/worried about sills (inside)

What did you decide to do about them Petrol, as I last remember with the S13 you were considering them...........

:)

I sprayed waxoyl inside the S13 sills and heated them up until it ran out. This left a smooth finish. My theory was it would allow water to run out rather than puddle.
I took the NS skirt off the S14 and there was no rust on the outside. I will have a look inside the sills when I take the rear ¼ and door step trims off. The car has never been jacked on the sills so the paint is intact. Hopefully they are OK


OT: where did you get that rain cover from? :)

I bought it from covercraft but it doesn’t fit properly :wack:


Is it summer already, footy is still on :p

Work stops play today :cry: I will leave Lynxy a list of jobs to do :D

[Rude Dog]

:eek: This is going to be good :notworthy
Why do it now though Pete with the summer coming:confused: surely this should be a winter project :thumbs:

Who wants to work underneath a car in the winter if they dont have too :confused:
Its cold!

[Lynxy]

Who wants to work underneath a car in the winter if they dont have too :confused:
Its cold!

me and Pete were fitting a new turbo on the 13 ... in the winter ... it was ****ing freezing :wack: we arent doing that again :nod:

[Petrol]

I made these blocks to support the shell, high density foam backed :D

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/041.jpg

If you pull these electrical connectors out the clips break

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/41a.jpg

There are 2 prongs at the back

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/042.jpg


Best way to remove them is fit a socket over the prongs

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/043.jpg

Dropped the lot

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/045.jpg


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/46.jpg


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/47.jpg


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/48.jpg

Under the NS has some slight rust


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/49.jpg

Only primer under the diff cooler bracket :rolleyes:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/50.jpg



What a slaphead :wack: I forgot to tell Lynxy to undo the driveshaft nuts before the car was jacked up. Had to resort to stilsons :eek:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/52.jpg

[archenemy.co.uk]

Only primer under the diff cooler bracket :rolleyes:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/50.jpg



Ha ha yours is rustier than mine :D :p

that subframe is in a shocking state, poor shame :(

[alanjuggler]

you call that shocking?

christ, i'm glad i don't post pictures of my s13 underneath on here :wack:


good job you're doing it now before it gets any worse.. should last a long time.

[Si]

pfah, you think that's shocking? wait until you see mine :wack:

[Petrol]

Ha ha yours is rustier than mine :D :p



Now you got me worried about the sills :D
Lynxy has told me he want's £4.50 / Hr :smash: I can't afford those prices :( Might lash some Cillit Bang on the rust and bolt it back together. Could be back to 200SX related real soon :wack:

[studioworks]

I cant wait to read this if its anything like your S13 one! :notworthy

I just wish i had the patience to do this myself.

[Mr OCD]

Looking forward to the write up on this... :)

I need to do my own at some point this summer ... not a job I am looking forward too as enjoying driving it too much :(

[S13_joe]

if i leave my car on your driveway for long enough, will it be restored?

[SM]

I cant wait to read this if its anything like your S13 one! :notworthy
Pete is really going to be Anal in his restore of the S14a. The S13 was just a quick spruce up :wack: He is planning a proper Job on the S14a for sure.

Bear in mind that the S14a is in absolutley perfect nick, cleanliness and repair, would be a good end point for most peoples project but its the start of Pete's :smash: :smash:

[Lynxy]

well this morning Pete buggered his ankle up so when i got home from school i got the tools out and carried on with the work. i'm glad to say the diff is out and the subframe is completely stripped :D pics to come soon :sxoc:

[doz]

Got to love dedicated restorations like this, totally demands respect :notworthy

[Squares]

Lol, thats waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better than mine!

Will watch with interest too!:nod:

[Petrol]

I don't like using solvent based cleaners on rubber seals & boots etc as it tends to loose its suppleness. I have cleaned the driveshaft boot up with pledge and a toothbrush :D I need to mask them up before shotblasting and painting.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/53.jpg

[doz]

Very nice dude, what are you going to use to paint the shafts?

[archenemy.co.uk]

I went to remove mine when I did the diff oil, loads of rusted on 10mm. Shear-heaven I thought. How much does the cooler weigh? What top you block the pipes with? Sorry to go off topic a bit!

Not a good idea for any car that will see a track


Just loop the pipes :thumbs: use one of them and reconnect it to the other outlet :)

Weighs a bit, say 4/5kgs guesstimate?

Thats the way to do it :) it is quite heavy

[Petrol]

Very nice dude, what are you going to use to paint the shafts?

Probably this 2K epoxy http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic.cfm Followed by 2 coats of 2K black gloss.

I thought of having everything powder coated but the high temps would feck the rubber bushes up :( I don't fancy stripping every bush out so it looks like everything will be wet sprayed.

[blue boy]

I have been stripping my S14 recently but i have just gone down the route of removing rust and then slapping a coat of black hammerite on it. I to can't believe the lack of rust protection on these cars and i am surprised that my 95 model has not got the rust worm worse than it has.

[Actual_Ben_Taylor]

Not a good idea for any car that will see a track


Personally I don't think the diff oil cooler is necessary. Mine went in the skip years ago...

[Nicely]

S15s don't have then at all... :D

[Petrol]

I could do to strip the rear hubs down for shotblasting but don't want to be messing with wheel bearings and pullers. If I remove these 4 bolts from the hub, can I just pull the drive flange off?

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/54.jpg

Thanks

[Actual_Ben_Taylor]

Yeah, but it isn't always easy to get the things out of the upright :)

[Squares]

Personally I don't think the diff oil cooler is necessary. Mine went in the skip years ago...

Interesting, utter madness in my eyes, I cannot understand why anyone would remove one myself. SM did and then had immediate problems on track, which isnt a surprise. Nissan thought it was needed on a standard car, let alone something that is putting 2 or 3 times the torque through the diff.....:rolleyes: One of the skyline boys rigged up a light for each cooler, so when it was being used the light came on, they all came on with some "light" European touring....suffice to say, mine will be staying.

anyway, sorry for going off topic.:wack:

[Petrol]

Yeah, but it isn't always easy to get the things out of the upright :)

Thanks Ben :thumbs: It's worth a try then :)

[Leviathan]

Lot easier to give it to the spanner monkey to do then lol
Let lynxy have some fun:D

[Actual_Ben_Taylor]

Interesting, utter madness in my eyes, I cannot understand why anyone would remove one myself. SM did and then had immediate problems on track, which isnt a surprise. Nissan thought it was needed on a standard car, let alone something that is putting 2 or 3 times the torque through the diff.....:rolleyes: One of the skyline boys rigged up a light for each cooler, so when it was being used the light came on, they all came on with some "light" European touring....suffice to say, mine will be staying.

anyway, sorry for going off topic.:wack:

There are a lot of parts that Nissan deemed necessary which I have opted to remove :)

The diff oil coolers are pretty pointless, if you actually look at the operating parameters in the FSM you'll see that it doesn't operate unless you're driving at over 75mph and the oil is over 130 degrees!

[Jonny]

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/031.jpg


Those brake disks are appalling - all that rust on the face...

Have you considered painting them silver?

[scimmy ben]

Personally I don't think the diff oil cooler is necessary. Mine went in the skip years ago...


S15s don't have then at all... :D


Interesting, utter madness in my eyes, I cannot understand why anyone would remove one myself. SM did and then had immediate problems on track, which isnt a surprise. Nissan thought it was needed on a standard car, let alone something that is putting 2 or 3 times the torque through the diff.....:rolleyes: One of the skyline boys rigged up a light for each cooler, so when it was being used the light came on, they all came on with some "light" European touring....suffice to say, mine will be staying.

anyway, sorry for going off topic.:wack:

Argument is inconsistent here...

Ben and the S15 Type Rs use torsen LSDs

SM uses a Viscous LSD

The oil in the viscous LSD is used in a much different way to that in the Torsen and it WILL get hotter. I would suggest that the viscous LSDs need a cooler but 14s should have the switching points adjusted/ overridden for track use.

[archenemy.co.uk]

Thanks Ben :thumbs: It's worth a try then :)

loosen off the 4 bolts and wail on them with a big hammer :smash:

[Petrol]

14s should have the switching points adjusted/ overridden for track use.

If you short out pins 3 & 4 on differential oil cooler relay 2 (T15) it will ignore the speed and switch solely on temperature

The relay is in the RHS of the boot.
Relay 1 is blue.
Relay 2 is black

[Nicely]

Interesting, utter madness in my eyes, I cannot understand why anyone would remove one myself. SM did and then had immediate problems on track, which isnt a surprise. Nissan thought it was needed on a standard car, let alone something that is putting 2 or 3 times the torque through the diff.....:rolleyes: One of the skyline boys rigged up a light for each cooler, so when it was being used the light came on, they all came on with some "light" European touring....suffice to say, mine will be staying.

Really? Funny how they never fitted them on Australian S14s.... I'd have thought they needed them much more than Europe...

Anyhow. You have far more patience and persistence than me, Petrol :nod:

[Squares]

The diff oil coolers are pretty pointless, if you actually look at the operating parameters in the FSM you'll see that it doesn't operate unless you're driving at over 75mph and the oil is over 130 degrees!

I guess that is a pretty extreme set of parameters, more the temp rather than the speed.....guess it may be over kill as yours is clearly ok after a fair few years.:nod:

Even so, think I will keep mine.....might even upgrade it to a 19row one to be sure!!!:wack: :smash:

[Petrol]

Those brake disks are appalling - all that rust on the face...

Have you considered painting them silver?

I need to replace the rear disks but will probably lacquer them to prevent corrosion :wack:



I guess that is a pretty extreme set of parameters, more the temp rather than the speed.....

The diff high temp light illuminates at 180C, if Ben hasn't had a problem with the HP he is running, then it’s not really needed. If anyone has a diffy rad in good nick I would be interested – mine looks a bit “shabby” I want to re fit the diff cooler parts for the “factory look” :D

[Jonny]

I need to replace the rear disks but will probably lacquer them to prevent corrosion :wack:


Won't that wear off the minute it gets driven..... :wack: ;)

[Petrol]

Won't that wear off the minute it gets driven..... :wack: ;)

Not with the way I drive :ghey: :D

[Petrol]

loosen off the 4 bolts and wail on them with a big hammer :smash:

Good tip that, thanks :thumbs:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/55.jpg

Good job I stripped em. Anyone got a backplate without a hole in it? :(

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/56.jpg

Most of the parts are off to be professionally shot/bead blasted. Parts that require a bit of care I will clean up myself like the drive flange. Don't want dirt getting inside so I have made a temporary seal out of tubing.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/57.jpg

[Petrol]

Fuel tank heat shield, looks like I am going to have to weld some pieces in

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/58.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/59.jpg

Fuel tank is a work of art :eek:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/60.jpg

Needs to come out though

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/61.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/62.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/63.jpg

This is the problem :D

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/64.jpg


How do I get the handbrake cable out? I have unbolted everything. Do you pull it out from inside the car?

[SM]

What bit of the handbrake cable are you struggling with?

Just hotwire the fuel pump, with a legth of fuel hose on the outlet, into the S13 ;)

[Petrol]

Everything is disconnected underneath but can't see how to get the cables out :( It says in the manual to undo the adjusting nut but the plate at the end of the black outer cable, is riveted to the handbrake mechanism :confused:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/65.jpg

Good idea to get rid of the fuel :thumbs:

[SM]

Not sure then, it should undo to the left of that red circle, off the lever, and pass out though that circled bit. :confused:

[Petrol]

Handbrake and front cable is one piece


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/66.jpg


Welded

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/67.jpg


And rivited

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/68.jpg


Sussed it

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/69.jpg

[Petrol]

Fuel tank supported for removal


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/70.jpg


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/71.jpg


Lowered the jack and out it came


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/72.jpg


Behind the fuel tank :eek:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/73.jpg


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/74.jpg


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/76.jpg


This is the worst of the rust on the N/S


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/75.jpg

O/S

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/77.jpg


N/S

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/78.jpg

N/S chassis leg under the boot cleaned up. Bit of surface rust on the seam

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/79.jpg

[Lynxy]

it looks easy, doesnt it :wack:

[purplepower]

GTT's don't run with the oil cooler either & they run more power than 200's standard :)

Pete, Gimme a shout if you need anything galvanised ;)

[IKRAM]

The start of another excellent thread Petrol and lynxy :thumbs:
Please, if you don't mind put pics up of every single step so the not so technical minded can learn.

[Fake Ben Taylor]

i dunno what everyones problem with rust is - its just natures way of improving the power to weight ratio :wack:

love the 14 fuel tank....no reason to change that ever:no:

[Petrol]

Pete, Gimme a shout if you need anything galvanised ;)

:thumbs: :notworthy


Please, if you don't mind put pics up of every single step so the not so technical minded can learn.

OK will do


i dunno what everyones problem with rust is - its just natures way of improving the power to weight ratio :wack:

love the 14 fuel tank....no reason to change that ever:no:

Yeah but think of the gains when its all shotblasted :D The trouble is, it will end up with about 2 gallons of paint and stonechip on it :wack:
I dread to think what Nissan would want for a new tank :eek:

[Fake Ben Taylor]

:thumbs: :notworthy



OK will do



Yeah but think of the gains when its all shotblasted :D The trouble is, it will end up with about 2 gallons of paint and stonechip on it :wack:
I dread to think what Nissan would want for a new tank :eek:

no i meant no need to replace it with an aftermarket one - its ideally placed:nod:

[Petrol]

Parts cleaning -engine degreaser, a washing up bowl and a paintbrush :D
Engine degreaser also removes tar and waxoyl.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/80.jpg

Diff cooler cover cleaned up

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/81.jpg

Fuel filler neck bracket needs some attention

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/82.jpg


Started degreasing the shell, again using engine degreaser. Best way is to work it in with a brush for a few minutes and wipe it off with a rag.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/83.jpg


One side cleaned up

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/84.jpg


The other side to do, need to lower the brake and fuel lines first. The bolts are soaking in WD40.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/85.jpg

[Petrol]

After swilling in engine degreaser under the car all morning, a courier arrived at lunchtime, great I thought, time to get some bits shotblated and "blinged" up

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/86.jpg


There is a bit more to this plating jobbie than meets the eye :nod: There are quite a few processes to go through, the temps and PH of the solutions have to be right as does the current which depends on the surface area of the component to be plated :eek:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/87.jpg


I hope their techie support is good :D

[superbad]

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/87.jpg




Ooh maths - what fun! :wack:

[Petrol]

Does anyone know how to remove these brake pipe clips without breaking them? They really need to come out but knowing Nissan, they will want an arm and a leg for them :(

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/88.jpg


Lxnxy has been polishing up the exhaust :D

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/89.jpg

[IKRAM]

Does anyone know how to remove these brake pipe clips without breaking them? They really need to come out but knowing Nissan, they will want an arm and a leg for them :(


What ive done in the past is to use a fork and slide the prongs under it and pull it upwards, but i supose it 50/50 chance of still breaking them.

[Petrol]

What ive done in the past is to use a fork and slide the prongs under it and pull it upwards, but i supose it 50/50 chance of still breaking them.

The fork was a bit too thick but gave me the idea of using a plastic card :thumbs:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/90.jpg

You can see in this pic where the prongs are

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/91.jpg

[Petrol]

Degreased the callipers and used 3 layers of masking tape to prevent sand getting behind the seals

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/93.jpg


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/94.jpg


Low pressure shotblast @ 60 psi, again to reduce the chance of sand in the seals, took ages though

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/96.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/97.jpg

Then brushed any loose sand off with a clean paintbrush and sprayed 1 thin coat of U-Pol acid etch primer. This needs to be left at least overnight before applying a topcoat.


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/98.jpg



That will be £164.30 :eek:



http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/99.jpg

[IKRAM]

Hi Petrol, is the upol acid etch sprayed from a rattle can or from a gun?
Good work by the way :thumbs:

[Petrol]

Hi Petrol, is the upol acid etch sprayed from a rattle can or from a gun?
Good work by the way :thumbs:

It’s a rattle can IKRAM but it’s worth noting that if you intend to drive your car hard or track it, you would be better off using a high temp calliper paint. I painted the callipers on the S13 with 1 coat of U-Pol acid etch followed by 3 coats of 2 Pack car gloss using a spray gun. They haven’t blistered or discoloured but it’s not surprising the way I drive :ghey: :D

[Mr OCD]

Worth noting that I used high temp caliper paint on my disks hubs / calipers a few weeks ago and one track day caused the paint to blister, crack and fall off...

The calipers are now a sickly yellow instead of gold too!!!

Considering getting them powder coated!

[Fake Ben Taylor]

Worth noting that I used high temp caliper paint on my disks hubs / calipers a few weeks ago and one track day caused the paint to blister, crack and fall off...

The calipers are now a sickly yellow instead of gold too!!!

Considering getting them powder coated!

powder coating burs off too :(

ive never had hammerite burn off though:nod:

[Hallsy]

Looking good Pete :)

Ikram, you can also buy the U-POL acid etch in a tin, probably works out cheaper if you're using a lot.

Pete, do you shotblast into a tank, or just make a mess all over the floor!!??

[Richy_Boy]

Great thread guys.. I see a summer project on the horizon and for once, it doesn't consist of mmmmore pooooowaaaaa. :wack:

Rich

[Petrol]

A bit of both really :D I tip the bag of sand into a dustbin and attempt to contain it but it does get everywhere. A polythene sheet underneath helps as you can sweep it up and reuse it. I always blast on the lawn though and it’s starting to look like a bunker now, this was when I did the S13 :D

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S13No2/Pics/455.jpg

Most of the suspension is going off for pro bead blasting and spraying, it's just the calipers, hub bearing carriers and diffy that I am doing :)

[Mr OCD]

What do I need to shotblast Pete?

I have a few suspension bits wouldnt mind cleaning up myself :)

[Petrol]

Scot you need a Huuuuuuuge compressor really. Mine is a twin cylinder jobbie with a 58” X 18” tank but you only get about 30 secs out of it, then your waiting for it to build the pressure back up. The gun was only about £20 from Machine Mart but my advice would be to have them professionally blasted.

[Mr OCD]

Ok Pete cheers :)

[j4mes]

are you shotblasting under the car?? i have an ok compressor and am tempted to buy the unit to get rid of the rust underneath. looks exactly like yours!! does it make much mess??? i have a sandblaster in a cabinet and that makes so much dust you cant see what your doing after about 10 seconds.

[Petrol]

are you shotblasting under the car??

Bloody good question :D I shotblasted under the S13 and sand got everywhere including inside the chassis rails and sills :( That's why I haven’t started on the shell yet, still deciding the best plan of attack. Some of the areas will be easy to clean up with a strip clean disk. I won’t be using a grinding disk though :no: Other areas look difficult to get to so I might end up masking up to shotblast :(

[j4mes]

strip clean disc?? those red fibre brushes?? i think thy are brill. its what i have used to do my engine bay, where can you get them, as i hav worn my dads ones down. :)

[Petrol]

I bought this one from Frost. Are the red brushes better?

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/92.jpg


I am still learning about the best way to combat corrosion. The best way to "wet" protect clean steel is to spray a coat of zinc rich paint on followed by 2 coats of epoxy paint. This is what I will be doing with the subby and suspension components. I have bought 2L of Electrox from here http://www.bilthamber.co.uk/electrox.html The preparation of the steel has to be suitable for the product being applied and I would like to thank Peter Hamber for his time and expertise:Plug:
This guy really knows his stuff and I will be posting up the best methods of preparation and protection when I have all the info :thumbs:

[j4mes]

i think i'll wat to do my subby until your doing yours ;) :thumbs: the red fibre wheel is great for cleaning paint off, it does ok on the rust but not amazing.

[Petrol]

Painted the calipers with 3 coats of 2K. Don't know what colour to do the fronts though :no: They’re gold at the mo :indiff:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/100.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/101.jpg

[Mr OCD]

Black to match the rears Pete else will look odd...

Quick question - what paint are you using and how are you thinning it?

Got a lot of spraying to do myself shortly and dont have a clue about thinning paint down ready for the gun ...

[Petrol]

What are you painting Scott? Suspension?

[Hallsy]

Check with paint supplier Scott, but most 2K is 2:1 then around 10% thinners, depending on pressure, temperature, etc.

[Mr OCD]

Cheers mate

Planning to go to Autopaint today to get what I need and get stuck in :)

[Hallsy]

They should sort you out, but for 2K you'll need the paint, activator and 2K thinners. If using basecoat you mix that 1:1 with basecoat thinners. Also get some cheap std thinners for cleaning the gun out.

[Petrol]

:smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash:





Arch seams are fine

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/032.jpg

Yer right. Thought I would scrape off some of the stonechip and seam sealer just to check behind. Looks like there has been no rustproofing whatsoever from the factory and it’s corroded behind the sealer.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/102.jpg


N/S seam at back of arch

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/103.jpg

O/S

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/104.jpg


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/105.jpg

Well it looked intact, good job I decided to scrape the sealant off and have a look.

There's also this where the fuel filler neck goes through

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/106.jpg

[Mr OCD]

Thats EXACTLY where mine is starting to show Pete... check the front seams as well - they are even worse...

I think mine will be coming off the road shortly to have this sorted out... it seems most of the seams on the 200 suffer from water ingress.

Poxy Nissans! - 8yr old car and dealing with rust already!!

[pdh 14a]

:eek: those arch seams are a shock,looks like i'll be checking mine in june when it next goes up in the air!
Loving this thread :notworthy

[Petrol]

:eek: those arch seams are a shock

You’re not kidding!!! It’s also more or less impossible to wire brush inside the seams. I have decided not to shotblast the shell for fear of debris inside the box sections and sills, debris being rust particles that would start corrosion on intact areas.

I sent Pete Hamber an email with a few pics and he has the solution, Deox-Gel :thumbs:

http://www.bilthamber.co.uk/deoxgel.html

It’s a thick corrosion remover, which can be applied to vertical surfaces. I also intend to use this on the diff and wheel bearing “carriers” It’s a better solution than blasting as you always run the risk of grit in the bearings. I have also bought some of their Deox-C

http://www.bilthamber.co.uk/deoxc.html

I was going to shotblast all the suspension nuts and bolts but this stuff will remove all corrosion and plating. It doesn’t however clean up alloy (though it doesn’t damage it) so I blasted the ally bit on the diffy pump and replaced the bolts with stainless cap screws :cool:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/107.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/108.jpg

The rest of it will be treated with the Deox-Gel :)

[Chem200]

Keep up the good work! I am going to do this to my car when i get my house sorted. Will be using this thread to keep me right so please put as much information on as possible :)

[Hammond]

Excellent work mate! Just out of interest, what camera are you using?

[Petrol]

Camera is a Nikon D70S

Chem200 I will do my best :nod:

[Lynxy]

i got bored 3 pages ago :wack:

give me something to do :cry:

[Mr OCD]

i got bored 3 pages ago :wack:

give me something to do :cry:

Start ripping the engine apart :nod:

:wack:

... then see how long you live ;)

[Petrol]

The black insert in the rear bumper is held in with 3 of these....

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/109.jpg


The problem is when you turn the nuts the plate spins in the plastic slot. Pic from back of bumper

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/110.jpg


Bit corroded

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/111.jpg


Normally I would spray on WD and heat the nut with a blowtorch until the WD boiled, then undo the nut. Since the bumper is plastic I though that might not be the best idea, so I ground the nuts back with an angle grinder being careful not to allow it to get hot. Then used pliers to remove the nut.


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/112.jpg

Threads were damaged so I ran a nut up and down a few times.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/113.jpg

[Evilchap]

When putting Stainless Bolts into alloy parts, and bolting everything back on when you cannot be sure the metals are the same I would suggest some Duralac, this is the stuff:

http://secure.silmid.com/action_catalogue.asp?sat=2&saa=4&path=~%5BS~%5E1~%5E~%5ED1305001LT~%5EAND~%5E~%5EAN D~%5E~%5E~%5D~%5BD~%5E~%5E1~%5E1471000090~%5E0~%5E S~%5D

It will stop them corroding up again when you come to do any servicing. Stainless might not rust, but it does corrode galvonically when in contact with dissimilar metals :)

[Petrol]

Top man :thumbs: Just ordered some :)

[Evilchap]

Glad I could be of help. I live on a boat where I am very aware of corrosion problems ;)

[Petrol]

The product

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/114.jpg

The task

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/115.jpg


Mixed at 16:1 tap water to deox_c.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/116.jpg


After 2 hours.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/117.jpg



This is the deox gel. Can't immerse a leccy pump into the liquid

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/119.jpg

Brushed on

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/120.jpg

Wrapped in cling film to prevent evaporation.


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/121.jpg

[Richy_Boy]

ohh that looks cool. We need to buy a club pool full of it and dip S13's - soon to be S14, S14a's into it like sheep :nod:

Rich

[j4mes]

ooooh looks great!!! i am eagerly waiting to see the results!!!

[scimmy ben]

The product

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/114.jpg

As that address is just around the corner for me, I could take a walk and see if there are any rusty cars in the car park:D

[Petrol]

As that address is just around the corner for me, I could take a walk and see if there are any rusty cars in the car park:D

Nip round and thank Pete Hamber for his help and putting up with a fussy customer :nod:

I used hot water to mix the deox solution and things were de rusting nicely. They slowed down a bit when the temps dropped a bit though :(

It says in the instructions that hot water gives better results. I have put the fish tank heater in the solution to speed things up :thumbs:

[scimmy ben]

It says in the instructions that hot water gives better results. I have put the fish tank heater in the solution to speed things up :thumbs:

I can see people in the NW just popping around for a cuppa and a derust of their nuts and bolts :) Does the solution ever 'run out' of effectiveness?

[Petrol]

I can see people in the NW just popping around for a cuppa and a derust of their nuts and bolts :) Does the solution ever 'run out' of effectiveness?

When it's black... according to the instructions :)

[Mr OCD]

PMSL...

Cling film...
Fish tank heater...

You deserve a blue peter badge Pete! :D

[Petrol]

PMSL...

Cling film...
Fish tank heater...

You deserve a blue peter badge Pete! :D

LOL :D

Parts from the tank :thumbs:


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/122.jpg

[Petrol]

Decided it might be a good idea to strip some more seam sealant off. This time it’s the turret tops. This is the NS but it’s pretty much the same on the OS :(

Again it all looked intact :smash:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/123.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/124.jpg


Diff pump came out like this. It's got rid of the bulk of it and for what it's worth, I will probably shotblast the rest off. Looks like I might need the gel for the shell

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/139.jpg

[Petrol]

Turret top cleaned up with a plastic brush in the leccy drill

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/125.jpg

Can't get into the seams

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/126.jpg


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/127.jpg


You can see why on this pic

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/128.jpg

Front of rear arch

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/129.jpg

Back of rear arch. I carefully opened the joint but can't get in to clean it up


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/130.jpg

Injecting Deox gel with a syringe

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/131.jpg

They recommend it’s applied 4mm thick. Not easy with a brush so I used the syringe

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/132.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/133.jpg


Covered in cling film

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/135.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/136.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/137.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/138.jpg

[Petrol]

Washed down and dried off with compresssed air

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/140.jpg

This bit needs another application

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/141.jpg

As does this, still some pitting in the seam.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/143.jpg

Front seam looks good :thumbs:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/142.jpg

[Petrol]

Got rid of the rust in the corner

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/144.jpg

Rust often starts on spot welds and seams. If the paint looks like this then it's highly likely its rusty behind

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/145.jpg

Cleaned up with a plastic brush. It's important to try to get any pitting or black "spots" out.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/146.jpg


Then sprayed the Electrox primer on. It's thinned with xylene and I had to use about 10 - 15% thinners. Most car primers are porous meaning they don't offer much protection. This stuff however does protect so the plan is to get the back end of the shell in primer, then spray on the epoxy mastic.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/148.jpg

I have had quite a few PM's asking what's the best stonechip and seam sealer. This is it but my bodyshop supplier had to order it. This little lot was £54 :eek: :eek:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/149.jpg

[archenemy.co.uk]

Its disapointing to see how poor the std seam sealer is :(

Good work :thumbs:

[Petrol]

Its disapointing to see how poor the std seam sealer is :(

Good work :thumbs:

I don't know what they have used around the turret tops :confused: Never seen it before but it's open cell :eek:


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/150.jpg


Unless it was a weight saving idea :wack:

[Ian McColl]

awesome thread :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:

had me entertained for a good few hours studying every pic and your methods.

keep up the good work.

[Si]

Just over a week ago i discovered exactly the saem on my rear turret tops. I've gone the POR15/Metal ready route - don't think it's going to be good as what you've done though.
Top work :nod:

Have you done the rear lower arms and hub 'knuckles' yet? I'm just about to embark on them and am deciding on the best course of action.

[Davie]

Petrol, awesome thread mate, in fact it has made me want to go through your 13 project again.

can i ask what you do for a living, i think read somewhere that it's nothing to do with cars.

I often think that if people did this sort of stuff for a living, then would they apply the same drive and passion for a personal project?

[Hallsy]

That Deox stuff looks pretty good, is it particuarly expensive?

Have you gone off the U-POL acid etch now, or are you supposed to use the Electrowatsit primer after the Deox to fully convert the rust?

Do you think you gained anything from dipping the small parts over wirebrushing/blasting though?

[Mr OCD]

Not surprised about the turret tops... did mine two years ago before fitting the uprated suspension and Nissan failed to provide any protection there at all...

Thats why we are seeing some S14's now showing rust under the sealant in the engine bay round the turrets...

[Petrol]

Just over a week ago i discovered exactly the saem on my rear turret tops. I've gone the POR15/Metal ready route - don't think it's going to be good as what you've done though.
Top work :nod:

Have you done the rear lower arms and hub 'knuckles' yet? I'm just about to embark on them and am deciding on the best course of action.

I did consider the POR15 route but thought I would be too tempted to paint over rust, you’re then relying on the POR to stop it. I am trying to completely remove the corrosion, this can be difficult especially when it’s pitted which is why I am going down the chemical removal route. I have never done this before :no: Not started on the lower arms and hub jobbies yet. Still thinking about the best plan of attack, or waiting to see what someone else has done :D




can i ask what you do for a living, i think read somewhere that it's nothing to do with cars.

I often think that if people did this sort of stuff for a living, then would they apply the same drive and passion for a personal project?

I am a video editor though I did work for ICI for 17 years as a mechanical / electrical engineer.


That Deox stuff looks pretty good, is it particuarly expensive?

Have you gone off the U-POL acid etch now, or are you supposed to use the Electrowatsit primer after the Deox to fully convert the rust?

Do you think you gained anything from dipping the small parts over wirebrushing/blasting though?

The deox gel is £9 for 1Kg but if you buy more it’s considerably cheaper.

The U-Pol acid stuff is fine if you are applying it to clean steel, it doesn’t provide any rust inhibiting properties though and I have noticed a few slight rust “stains” on the S13 suspension arms. You don’t have to use the Electrox primer after the Deox.

No I don’t think there was any gain in dipping as opposed to blasting, just trying to find an easier solution.


I spent over a week trying to find the best plan of attack but everyone tells you “their product is the best” I came to the conclusion that the best possible protection is a zinc rich primer over coated with polysiloxane. The problem with polysiloxane though is it’s brittle and could crack. Epoxy paint is more flexible and is the best bet. It’s not cheap though, the 2K paint I used on the S13 suspension was £8/L. The epoxy paint is £25/L

[Hallsy]

Ah right, what does the Electrox primer do then?

[RTLKyuubi]

it looked like a good idea to use the chemical stuff on small bits, but i would of thought it would be been easier to use wire drill bits and a drill on the big stuff.

Ryan.

[Lynxy]

whens it my turn with the real machinery :whip:

[Petrol]

Ah right, what does the Electrox primer do then?

Hmmm bit complicated and not easy to understand but basically it protects the steel from corrosion by both barrier and cathodic protection (I think)

I found this on the zinc information webby

"Zinc coatings for iron and steel provide excellent corrosion resistance in most atmospheres, in hard fresh waters, and in contact with many natural and synthetic substances. Zinc coatings are widely used to protect finished products ranging from structural steelwork for buildings and bridges, to nuts, bolts, strip, sheet, wire and tube. The electrochemical relationship between zinc and steel enables zinc coatings also to protect steel at cut edges and at breaks in the coating by a sacrificial action"


Theres rust behind most of the spot weld's :(

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/151.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/152.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/153.jpg

One rust spot led to another :cry: Thats more or less the whole of the NS chassis leg stripped :(

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/154.jpg

[winty]

Bloody Hell:eek:
Amazing work as always Petrol
The main thing that always impresses me is your determination to
carry on start to finish:clap:

Do you ever waiver with enthusiasm?

[Petrol]

Do you ever waiver with enthusiasm?

All the time :D To be honest I enjoy most of the work but I hate wire brushing rust off :smash: :smash: So Lynxy is on the case :D

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/155.jpg


Midlands_Si

Thought I would try the gel on the rear wheel bearing "things" - are these what you mean?


Degreased the bearing seal and masked off

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/156.jpg

Squashed a tube into the gap to protect the bearing outer seal

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/157.jpg

LOL

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/158.jpg


Instructions advise wrapping in cling film, I can't do that so I put it in a carrier bag and expelled the air :D

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/159.jpg

I will let you know how I get on :)

[cliffb75]

As ever :notworthy

Some of these tips are definately going to get used refurbing the suspension bits that don't get changed for new ones.

Thanks for taking the time to provide such good pics and explanations :thumbs:

[Leviathan]

All the time :D To be honest I enjoy most of the work but I hate wire brushing rust off :smash: :smash: So Lynxy is on the case :D

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/155.jpg


Looks like Lynxy is holding the car up on his Knee :D

[Petrol]

Mega masking up job on the diff to blast the backplate. I even had the tubing in the output shafts like I did with the bearing carriers :o Bit OTT but better to be safe :) Also notice the tubing & bolts to seal the take off and returns for the cooler

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/160.jpg

I don't know what it's made of but took ages to blast clean - Oh and half a bag of sand @ 90 psi :eek:

Came up good though :D

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/161.jpg

The backplate will be lacquered and the rest will be black, similar to the cooler pump. I shotblasted the rest of the rust off the motor, used the Duralock on the bolts (thanks Evilchap:thumbs: ) masked up and lacquered it

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/162.jpg

[Evilchap]

Can I send you my car to do next? ;) Excellent work!

[Petrol]

Can I send you my car to do next? ;)

Not heard that one before :D :D

Do you think it's a good idea to use the Duralac when I assemble the suspension parts? I am thinking carbon steel bolts into cast steel might cause a problem :confused: Or should I just slap some grease in there :D

[Fake Ben Taylor]

Not heard that one before :D :D

Do you think it's a good idea to use the Duralac when I assemble the suspension parts? I am thinking carbon steel bolts into cast steel might cause a problem :confused: Or should I just slap some grease in there :D

good old grease imo:nod:

[Petrol]

good old grease imo:nod:

Ta :thumbs:

Yuk :D

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/163.jpg

Instructions say to scrub it. I used an old toothbrush.


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/164.jpg


I applied the Deox gel twice and after a quick wire brush :eek:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/165.jpg

[Davie]

Thats amazing. What a difference.

Did you leave it coated and air tight over night?

[Petrol]

Thats amazing. What a difference.

Did you leave it coated and air tight over night?

Yep, I placed it on a carrier bag, slapped it on, lifted the bag over and tied the handles together. Left it 24 hours, cleaned it off with kitchen roll, re applied it, left it for another 24 hours and bingo :)

I appreciate it takes time but there’s no way I was going to shotblast it.

[Davie]

Well, when doing something like this time is key. Not worth risking the bearings and rendering it useless.

Can't beleive how well that came out.

Whats next for it? Gloss black?

[j4mes]

fukin hell. i need some of that stuff. be absolutely perfect!!!! roll on pay day. (tomorrow :))

[dhracer]

wow :eek: that stuff is frickin awesome :notworthy

Group Buy anyone? :D

Fantastic to see another restoration from you Pete :thumbs: inspirational stuff :nod:

[Petrol]

Next up is Electrox primer ;)

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/166.jpg

It says on the instructions - For severe, marine duty, a second coat is recommended. Yup it's 2 coats for Petrol :D When I spray small parts I hang them up on a wire. The drawback is though, you always miss a bit

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/167.jpg

Once the first coat is dry it's just a matter of hanging the part up through a different hole to apply the second coat. This will give full coverage:)

This Electrox primer is a 1K product which means you can leave it in the gun for a few days and it won’t go hard. This is handy as you can prime parts as soon as they are ready. Leaving bare metal parts for any period of time is not a good idea as they will start to corrode. This primer is over 90% zinc and the metal particles sink to the bottom. It's very important to stir it thoroughly before and during use. I left some thinned paint in the gun overnight and there was a slurry of zinc in the bottom. This is the best thing I have found to mix paint with. Tried all sorts but never found anything better.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/168.jpg



IKRAM / guys, is this about the right amount of info & pics? On one hand I don’t want to bore you with the basics but on the other, I don’t mind explaining everything I am doing :)

[Develop]

When I spray small parts I hang them up on a wire. The drawback is though, you always miss a bit


on a threaded hole like you have there, put in a spare bolt a couple of turns, then wrap the wire around the bolt, that way you wont miss a bit :thumbs:

[Petrol]

on a threaded hole like you have there, put in a spare bolt a couple of turns, then wrap the wire around the bolt, that way you wont miss a bit :thumbs:

The best ideas are always the simplest :D Thanks :thumbs:

[Evilchap]

Yeah I think you need more pictures, probably of a car of a more blue-ish nature to give an idea to others of what the work would look like on their cars ;)

[necromancer]

petrol as has been said hats off to you :notworthy some great work and that gel stuff fantastic results i know what I'm doing next winter :thumbs:
keep the updates coming :)

Lee.:)

[SM]

I have submitted this thread to the men in white coats, they will soon come to take you away, they are just making sure there is nothing to clean in your padded cell.

[SteA]

I have submitted this thread to the men in white coats, they will soon come to take you away, they are just making sure there is nothing to clean in your padded cell.

Or better still, just lock him in your house for a month and hey presto your property has quadrupled in value and you can eat your tea off the floor :thumbs:

[Evilchap]

Or better still, just lock him in your house for a month and hey presto your property has quadrupled in value and you can eat your tea off the floor :thumbs:

Sod that, I'd lock him in my garage!

[Davie]

IKRAM / guys, is this about the right amount of info & pics? On one hand I don’t want to bore you with the basics but on the other, I don’t mind explaining everything I am doing :)

Plenty good enough. I'm sure this resto is taking long enough, and even longer with you stopping to take pics.

From this thread, i would easily say i could do this to an S14a.

[j4mes]

that is also exactly the same tool i use to stir my paint. :thumbs: up to you petrol. hope mine turns out half as good as yours :)

[Petrol]

OK cheers guys.

FPMSL @ SM :D :D :D The "analness" has only just begun :wack:

With pressed steel components, rust always starts on the edges as there is only a very thin film of paint covering it. Imagine spraying a razor blade, there would be naff all paint covering the cutting edge.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/174.jpg


The solution is to sand a radius on all the edges :wack:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/175.jpg


These have been done, Lynxy can do the subby when he gets home from college :whip:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/176.jpg

[j4mes]

just ordered some deox gel. alsp put your name down asd where i heard about it from. thanks petrol. :)

[Petrol]

just ordered some deox gel. alsp put your name down asd where i heard about it from. thanks petrol. :)

Me too :D The girl that took the order is looking for an S13 to go drifting :eek: :D :thumbs: :notworthy

[j4mes]

doh i should have called now. lol. i just did itr the lazy way on the internet :)

[Lynxy]

just finished wirebrushing the 2nd hub :D and im filthy :wack:

next job, diff :D:D

[Petrol]

Diff still had some paint on it.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/169.jpg

Stripped off with nitromores

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/170.jpg

Washed off

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/171.jpg

Gel on.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/172.jpg

Other side

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/173.jpg

24 Hours later

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/178.jpg

Just needs a quick wire brush

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/179.jpg

[Petrol]

Lower arms are being shotblasted. The balljoints will be masked up but need preparing for paint first.

Circlip removed

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/180.jpg

Paint removed

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/181.jpg


After Deox

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/182.jpg


Anyone know the best way to mask up for shotblasting? I was thinking of using self adhesive foam :indiff:


Under the OS arch was just a repeat of the NS really. Some corrosion around where the fuel filler neck goes though :annoyed:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/183.jpg

[Petrol]

Whats going on here? Started to strip the Nismo S-Tune suspension but this looks like coil binding to me. Is this normal?

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/184.jpg

[Hallsy]

I think coil binding on the tight coils is fairly normal Pete, I've seen it before anyway.

As for masking for shotblasting I guess foam could work, or maybe multiple layers of gaffer tape?

[j4mes]

your inner arches look sooo much better than mine :(

:thumbs: up. keep at it, as your giving me lots of great ideas :)

[Dave_S]

WOW, another awesome thread, that DeOX stuff looks amazing! :thumbs:

Love the pics, keep them coming :)

Dave

[M.D.]

as said, being lowering springs, the tight coils are supposed to become coilbound when the car is on the floor, this gives the drop without having to make the springs shorter, then the wider coils do the work

[Petrol]

Thanks for the explanation about the coil binding, I didn’t know that.


I think coil binding on the tight coils is fairly normal Pete, I've seen it before anyway.

As for masking for shotblasting I guess foam could work, or maybe multiple layers of gaffer tape?


Gaffer tape :thumbs:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/185.jpg

And foam :D

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/186.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/187.jpg

Then more gaffer tape :wack:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/188.jpg

I will do the same with the driveshaft UJ's.

When masking up around awkward contours, it’s difficult to get the tape to stick into tight corners. I find using something like the handle of a small paintbrush helps

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/189.jpg

[wip]

i know you've heard it all before but as borat would say - wow waa wee waa :notworthy only just started looking round this section, think i'm gonna be digging up your s13 thread i've seen mentioned a few times. and as for that gel....buyin some of that! :nod: keep up the excellent work...

EDIT: Just found it, 62 pages! who needs steven king?

[GT_MAXER]

amazing mate.gonna get me some of that deox stuff.

[Petrol]

It’s not always necessary to strip everything back to bare metal. Take these parts from the Nismo suspension. They look perfect but the paint applied won’t last long. Applying a couple of coats of epoxy paint will offer a lot more protection. The best way to prepare is to wash them in engine degreaser to get all the crud of but beware. Scrubbing with engine degreaser and rinsing off leaves a film of “Gunk” If you sprayed paint on this it would not adhere properly.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/190.jpg


You can see the difference when it's washed in hot soapy water

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/191.jpg

These will be roughed up using scotchbrite and then cleaned with panel clean immediately before the paint is applied.

Engine degreaser can’t be used on all materials This is the air vent that goes at the back of the rear ¼, I have fecked it up good and proper :wack: :D

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/192.jpg

[Davie]

Whats wrong with it? Are the little black bits malformed now?

[Petrol]

Whats wrong with it? Are the little black bits malformed now?

:nod: They’ve shrunk – a LOT :(

[Petrol]

OS arch now in primer. I masked up behind the fuel filler cap with foam

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/193.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/194.jpg

More rust behind seam sealer. This time on the brake pipe bracket

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/195.jpg

Spot welds wire brushed, again surface rust behind the paint :(

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/196.jpg


Progress is slooooooooooow

[j4mes]

Progress is slooooooooooow


yours is going a lot quicker than mine. im now stuck inside. 1 because of weather and 2 i have sinusitus. sooo bloody dizzy :(

[Petrol]

Progress is slooooooooooow


yours is going a lot quicker than mine. im now stuck inside. 1 because of weather and 2 i have sinusitus. sooo bloody dizzy :(

Get well soon mate! I am also struggling with the weather, it's rained more or less every day since I started this job :(

This is a typical wire brush from B&Q after 1/2 an hour

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/200.jpg

So I bought this big bruiser :D

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/201.jpg


Almost forgot, pics of prepwork before paint.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/197.jpg


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/198.jpg


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/199.jpg

[Hallsy]

Good stuff Pete.

So the OEM stonechip, did you just scrub it clean before prepping rusty bits, then spot priming?

My chassis, inner wings, etc have been coated with something that is starting to come off and I thought about removing the worst of it and stonechipping, but didn't know what to use to prep/clean it, without removing stuff that doesn't need it (i.e. other than flakey stuff/rust).

Also found some rust at bottom/front of rear arch today, although I think it's superficial, it will need sorting :(

[j4mes]

i think i might burn my stone chip coating off. as where i have stitchwelded the sus turrets it has burnt all the stonechip from the other side.

liking the large wire brush where did you get that??

[Petrol]

Good stuff Pete.

So the OEM stonechip, did you just scrub it clean before prepping rusty bits, then spot priming?

My chassis, inner wings, etc have been coated with something that is starting to come off and I thought about removing the worst of it and stonechipping, but didn't know what to use to prep/clean it, without removing stuff that doesn't need it (i.e. other than flakey stuff/rust).

Also found some rust at bottom/front of rear arch today, although I think it's superficial, it will need sorting :(

I used a scrubbing brush and soapy water to clean the stonechip up, then gave the area a quick wire brush before spot priming.




liking the large wire brush where did you get that??

I bought it from a local engineering suppliers. It’s suppose to go into a bench grinder but I put a nut and bolt through it to use in the drill. You have to run the drill in reverse though otherwise the nut loosens :D It’s an Osborn pro 100mm diameter. Works well :)

[j4mes]

ooooh good idea, i think i may have one for my bench grinder somewhere :)

[warner]

Engine degreaser can’t be used on all materials This is the air vent that goes at the back of the rear ¼, I have fecked it up good and proper :wack: :D

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/192.jpg


:sxoc: go petrol, you are a legend and should be made a knight of the SXOC or something:nod: :wack:

Wheres that bit from? underneath somewhere? i recently stripped the rear interior of mine fully and i don't remember seeing one of those:confused:

[j4mes]

its in the boot, down the off side, in the gap behind the carpet. :)

[warner]

Ahhh, just been to have look :D
I'll try and get it off sometime this week and you can have mine if you want petrol.

[Petrol]

Ahhh, just been to have look :D
I'll try and get it off sometime this week and you can have mine if you want petrol.

WOW what can I say? That's very, very kind of you :notworthy :notworthy

Anyone know what it's for? Fits in here

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/202.jpg

[j4mes]

to let excess pressure from the car, when shuttiin doors and boot lid (as far as im aware)

[Petrol]

to let excess pressure from the car, when shuttiin doors and boot lid (as far as im aware)

Blimey, bit OTT :D I guess it also acts as a vent when the cabin fan is on then :)

[warner]

No worries. Im with the car all week for a change, so i'll try and get it off. Its worth it for all the knowledge you impart on to the forum in this area :nod:

[Petrol]

I bought this when I refurbed the S13. Fantastic piece of kit

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/203.jpg

Too tight in here for a chubby driver but it saved the day

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/204.jpg

The plan was to spot treat the rust with the gel but since the rust is widespread, I decided to shotblast it. I didn't want any sand inside the chassis so I masked up any open seams and holes with tape.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/205.jpg

For larger holes like this


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/206.jpg


A piece of foam cut roughly to shape with a screw through it

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/207.jpg

Fits nicely in the hole. The screw can be held to stop the blast force pushing the foam into the chassis

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/208.jpg


Small holes can be filled with a piece of foam cut to a taper

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/209.jpg


Bucket and spade time :D

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/210.jpg

[j4mes]

i dont think i could cope with the mess after. lol. hope its going well petrol :)

[Petrol]

i dont think i could cope with the mess after. lol. hope its going well petrol :)

It's not the mess on the floor that's the problem. I need one of these :nod:

http://www.northerntooluk.com/images/product_images/image/15548E.jpg

The sand gets everywhere and when you start sweating, it sticks :(

[Lynxy]

It's not the mess on the floor that's the problem. I need one of these :nod:

http://www.northerntooluk.com/images/product_images/image/15548E.jpg

The sand gets everywhere and when you start sweating, it sticks :(

no, just cause nobody can see your ugly face :D

[Develop]

what blaster do you use?

[Petrol]

what blaster do you use?

Just a cheap blast gun from Machinemart


no, just cause nobody can see your ugly face :D

Like father like son :p

Shotblasted and then wire brushed where the masking tape was

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/211.jpg

Then used an airline to remove any sand and wiped over with pre clean. It’s best to use a white cloth so you can see how much dirt is coming off

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/218.jpg

Missed a few bits

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/215.jpg

Masked them up, these will be spot treated

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/216.jpg

Then used tape to indicate the prepped areas. When restoring small areas at a time, it’s easy to spray over rust and miss cleaning them up.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/217.jpg

Sprayed with Electrox.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/219.jpg

You can see the stripes where the tape was indicating the next sections to be prepped

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/220.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/221.jpg


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/222.jpg

[j4mes]

looks bloody great!!!! i wouldnt be allowed to use the shot blaster outside. my dad would kill me :(:(:( what you sprating it with next??

[Petrol]

looks bloody great!!!! i wouldnt be allowed to use the shot blaster outside. my dad would kill me :(:(:( what you sprating it with next??

Epoxy paint. It's gonna weigh a ton when it's done though :( What's the problem with blasting? The sand I guess but it's not as noisy as an angle grinder ;)

[j4mes]

we have a tarmac drive :(:(:( so would never be able to get rid of all the sand. trying to get him to build me another garage. i might use hamerite smooth sparayed on. :)

[Petrol]

I might use hamerite smooth sparayed on. :)

I would have thought that a 2K product would offer better protection. Talking of protection it’s been suggested that Sikoflex might be a better option than seam sealer. Can anyone confirm this :confused:

[Hallsy]

I though sikaflex was a seam sealer? Just a certain brand? I used TigerSeal, again a PU sealer, but made by U-POL.

When you are spraying the chassis do you use low pressure to prevent overspray as much as possible? Do you mask up the side of the car a little just in case?

[j4mes]

i thought silkaflex and tigerseal was for bonding bodykits on, e'g sideskirts??

[Evilchap]

Sikaflex is wonderful stuff.

Very sticky and very strong. It's a moisture curing sealent that I use for all sorts of stuff. It is a brand name, but the genuine stuff is best :)

It would make a good seam sealer I reckon, as you could squirt it on the joints and once cured you could tighten everything up onto it and make an excellent seal.

I used it to mend my heads pump on the boat, and it's been excellent since. :)

[Petrol]

I have just phoned a friend of mine who owns a bodyshop and he said “PU sealer or Sikaflex can be used to seam seals, it’s also used for bonding panels and glass in. Manufacturers use a brush on seam sealant on some seams. To replicate this OEM specification you have to use a brush on seam sealant”
I explained exactly what I was doing and he suggested that Sikoflex would be my best bet. He also told me that the correct method was prep, prime, seam seal, prime again (didn’t know that) then topcoat.

Evilchap - I think I will buy the genuine stuff :thumbs:

Hallsy, I am using 45psi pressure and lashing it on. I thought it best not to mask the car up for fear of sand under the masking and scratching the paint. The car is very dirty and at the moment, I can’t see a way of cleaning it. There’s about a zillion layers of wax on it so I hope this gives it some protection.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/223.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/224.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/225.jpg


:o :o :o

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/226.jpg



Pic just for SM :p :D :wave:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/227.jpg

[Develop]

if your using sikoflex for the seams, a good way to do it is,

put it on with a caulking gun to get a bead of sealer over the seam,
then get a cup full of degreaser,
soak a paint-brush in it,
and brush over the bead of sealer.

it gives a nice smooth finish to the sealer, and the degreaser just evaporates :thumbs:

have to do it reasonably quickly though, otherwise the sikoflex starts to dry up and 'pulls' rather than smoothing out.

also there is no need to re-prime after sealing,
but you should definately seal after priming, otherwise you are just sealing in moisture onto bare metal.

[j4mes]

doh. as i said to petrol, im going to pull all my seam sealer from the engine bay, and prime it first this time. :(:(

[Petrol]

if your using sikoflex for the seams, a good way to do it is,

put it on with a caulking gun to get a bead of sealer over the seam,
then get a cup full of degreaser,
soak a paint-brush in it,
and brush over the bead of sealer.

it gives a nice smooth finish to the sealer, and the degreaser just evaporates :thumbs:

have to do it reasonably quickly though, otherwise the sikoflex starts to dry up and 'pulls' rather than smoothing out.

also there is no need to re-prime after sealing,
but you should definately seal after priming, otherwise you are just sealing in moisture onto bare metal.


Nice tip that :nod: Thanks :notworthy

[Dave_S]

There's some mental detail going on here, can't wait to see the finished product :smitten:

Keep it up :thumbs:

Dave

[Petrol]

There's some mental detail going on here


Dave

You’re not kidding :no: Everything seems to be taking ages. Diff is ready for paint though. I have lost track of how many hours Lynxy and I have spent prepping it :(

Pic from the top


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/228.jpg

[Petrol]

Picked everything up from the blasters today. Had it done here http://www.powerclean-uk.co.uk/index.htm

It takes a lot to impress me and these guys have done an awesome job :notworthy I even had a tour of the place :thumbs:

This is the blasting booth

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/229.jpg

Subby

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/230.jpg

First process is steel shot

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/231.jpg


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/232.jpg

It's then blasted in this cabinet with ally oxide

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/233.jpg


This is finer than the steel shot

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/234.jpg


It's finally bead blasted with this fine stuff

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/235.jpg

The place was immaculate :eek:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/236.jpg

Every component other than the subby was individually wrapped and bagged

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/237.jpg

[Petrol]

The result :eek:


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/238.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/239.jpg


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/240.jpg


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/241.jpg


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/242.jpg


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/243.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/244.jpg


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/245.jpg


:notworthy :notworthy

[superbad]

Cor, proper job! :thumbs:

[Dave_S]

OMG that looks better than brand new :eek: :notworthy

Dave

[Petrol]

Have to say I am really pleased :)

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/246.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/247.jpg

Everything is 100% rust free http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/gifanis/ywoohoo.gif

[Petrol]

Fuel tank heat shield, looks like I am going to have to weld some pieces in

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/58.jpg



It had rusted through and didn't think I was capable of fabricating & butt welding such thin pieces in. I turned to an old friend for help :thumbs: This is what he did :notworthy :notworthy


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/249.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/251.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/252.jpg


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/253.jpg


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/254.jpg


Pics say it all :notworthy :notworthy :notworthy

[Petrol]

Long day...Everything is now primed :D

A few bits :D


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/255.jpg

[Evilchap]

Seriously with all this time on your hands...

You should do more than 1 car at once ;)

Wouldn't cost much more with all the shot blasting and the likes either!

Looking amazingly wonderful as ever!

[Petrol]

One at a time is enough for me :) The plan was to have everything sprayed in a booth but when I arrived he couldn’t do them :( Managed to get the second coat on today, easiest way to spray driveshafts is to put them on a box and roll them along

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/256.jpg

I have used a litre of paint :eek:


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/257.jpg

[GT_MAXER]

lol the power to weight ratio is going to be mental with the amount of laquer mate but keep it up.amazing project.

[piman2k]

Very impressive stuff now mate.

Can you estimate how much that subframe cost you to get properly blasted down? I only ask as I'm in the market for getting a new one blasted and powder coated just incase my kerb strike did anything I don't like.

[Petrol]

I would guess about £40

[Mr OCD]

Awesome :D

Can I ask where you got the roll of plastic sheeting Pete? - I need some myself :)

[Petrol]

Awesome :D

Can I ask where you got the roll of plastic sheeting Pete? - I need some myself :)

A freind of mine got it from work :D
I ordered a new rear disk baffle from Nissan.......


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/258.jpg


:annoyed: :annoyed: :annoyed: If anyone has a part number I would appreciate it :)

[necromancer]

what side do you need l/h or r/h :)

[Petrol]

what side do you need l/h or r/h :)

They are not handed ;)

[necromancer]

yeah just noticed :wack:

44151-35F00 hopefully should be right one :) :thumbs:

[Petrol]

Thanks :thumbs:

[necromancer]

no problem glad i could help this thread and your old one has given me some really good tips as to how to refurb properly or at least a hell of a lot more knowledge on the process than i knew lets just hope its the right baffle this time :)

[Petrol]

no problem glad i could help this thread and your old one has given me some really good tips as to how to refurb properly or at least a hell of a lot more knowledge on the process than i knew :)

:thumbs:

I have a couple of brake pipes on order from Nissan :rolleyes:

N4628670T00 is a short hard pipe that runs under the OS rear arch to the brake hose

N4628770T00 goes from the OS rear arch, across the crossmember to the N/S brake hose

If you could check these part No's I would be very grateful :)

[piman2k]

Thanks very much for your help Petrol, this thread is utterly ace :D

[Math]

fantastic work petrol :) do you know if the brake pipes come made up/bent into shape from nissan? just about to get my done frotn tor ear etc, is it worth it over making them up yourself?

[Petrol]

The brake pipes come ready bent to shape. It's probably cheaper to make your own up but I wanted them to be exactly the right shape with perfect bends :rolleyes: I've lost the plot somewhat :(

I bought one of those blasting hoods and it's great :thumbs:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/259.jpg

This took all day to clean up, talk about awkward to get to :annoyed:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/260.jpg

[Lynxy]

well i came home from school today to find pete under the car as usual :wack: he had tried sandblasting the main rust off the shell but it was having no affect, so i got under with the angle grinder to get most of the base off. he will try sandblasting again afterwards, then we'll see what it turns out like :whip:

[Math]

were they expensive? i dont blame you, i got a fuel pipe made up as they are really hard to get into shape without kinking.

[Petrol]

I have ordered the short one that goes from the T piece to the OS hose and the one that runs across the back of the car - £28 + vat

[cliffb75]

The brake pipes come ready bent to shape. It's probably cheaper to make your own up but I wanted them to be exactly the right shape with perfect bends :rolleyes: I've lost the plot somewhat :(



Not at all Pete - you want to do it properly thats all.:)

I did the same when I owned my GT4 (a few years back now). They had corroded on one corner and failed the MOT so I bought entire new front to rear pipes, which are all nicely bent and come with the little protective coatings etc. A right sod to fit 'cos I didn't remove the suspension etc - thank god I was able to use a ramp at work :D .

:thumbs:

[Petrol]

Not at all Pete - you want to do it properly thats all.:)




I am trying Cliff though I never expected so much surface rust :cry: I am now removing the paint off every seam to check


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/261.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/262.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/263.jpg

My compressor was at meltdown temps today. I need an intercooler for it :D

[Petrol]

The rust is depressing me :( I didn't think it was going to be anywhere near as bad as it is. This is the back of the NS chassis leg and I couldn't get in with the blast gun

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/264.jpg

Cleaned the bulk of it off with 40's wet & dry

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/265.jpg


Deox gel on cling film

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/266.jpg

Then applied it

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/267.jpg

[Petrol]

Rust always starts on edges and welds. For extra protection I have brush painted these areas on the suspension parts. This will be followed by 2 spray coats

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/268.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/269.jpg

It's also worth brushing some paint on where there was heavy corrosion

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/270.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/271.jpg

[Petrol]

The finish with the epoxy mastic is not what I am after, it’s a satin to matt finish so I have decided to go for a full gloss 2K body paint. I have no doubt it’s the dogs for rust prevention but at the end of the day, this car will never be taken out in the rain again. If anyone is interested I have 5L of the stuff. I just want the bling factor :D

I refurbed the insulation padding that goes between the tank and the galvanised heat shield today. I didn’t take any before pics as I didn’t think it was very interesting but I am pleased with the results. Basically it was de- laminating around the edges and had some rust stains on it. I used evo – stick around the edges and gave it a very light dust coat of anthracite acrylic. The paint will help prevent it de-laminating again. Looks factory and all :)


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/272.jpg

Here is where it was de-laminating

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/273.jpg

[Evilchap]

That is verging on disturbing to be honest mate ;)

[Petrol]

That is verging on disturbing to be honest mate ;)

LOL, It's only a car. You should see the refurb I did on my house a few years ago. That was a BIG job :nod: Ste A posted a comment about it :D

The S14 refurb is totally anal I agree :nod:
Why am I doing it?.............. Because I can ;)

[Dave_S]

... and still doing an awesome job, keep it up :)

Dave

[Petrol]

8 more hours of shotblasting to get to this.


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/274.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/275.jpg


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/276.jpg

[Evilchap]

So what's the technique for stopping future stone chips?

I have quite enough and would like to know how not to get any more... Clearly you cant allow stone chips on your car after all this!

You going to get the interior re-trimmed or have a crack at learning that art too?

[j4mes]

peter. please come help do mine. my skills are no way near the level as yours :(:(:(

[Petrol]

So what's the technique for stopping future stone chips?



Not to drive it :D Seriously though I would guess that driving on gritted roads accounts for the majority of stonechips. It’s an interesting question though :nod:



You going to get the interior re-trimmed or have a crack at learning that art too?

No, the interior is about as good as it gets and is stock. I bought the car of a friend who used it for touring Europe (and beyond) so the interior is in pretty good nick. A respected board member drove it and said “fook me the steering wheel isn’t shiny” :D

I will post the whole history of the car when it’s done if anyone is interested.


peter. please come help do mine. my skills are no way near the level as yours :(:(:(

I would swap my knowledge plus a few grand for your age :nod: Skills come with experience, experience takes time though :(

Any questions mate - fire away :nod:

[j4mes]

your a star matey. a credit to this forum!!!!!!!!!

[Develop]

So what's the technique for stopping future stone chips?


dont drive too close to the car in front :thumbs: