My first engine rebuild - Step by Step....

[Master Chief]

Hi all.
I have started my first rebuild. I plan to do as mutch as possible alone, and since we dont have any NISSAN gurus in my country, i would appritiate any and all advice and tips you guys can give me.
Allso, i will upload pictures of the process as i go along.
My engine stand hasnt arrived yet, so dont give me to much truble about it....It will be here for the assembly part.

I aim for the engine to be reliable for about 400 HP.
My parts list contains for now - CP Pistons, Eagle Rods, KING rod and main Bearings, NEW CRANK from Nissan, ARP rod bolts, ARP crank and head studs, Greddy 1.2mm HG, new timming components, OEM GASKET SET, OEM crank sproket, Greddy Oil pan. If i didnt miss anything, thats it.
All these i already have, or are on there way.
Am i missing anything crutial ???

I would like to rebuild my oil pump on the way, does anyone know the part number of the rbuild kit, or i have to buy a whole new front cover ?

Anyway , here goes....

Engine on the oil pan - wil be replaced anyway - good enough for now...
Air con compressor removed, alternator removed, turbo and manifold removed...
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/e1.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/e2.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/e3.jpg

Engine cover off, camshafts, retainers, sprokets, shims, all off to expose the head bolts.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/h1.jpg

Head removed togheter with the intake manifold - as per the manual.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/h2.jpg

Engine on its "head", starting to remove the oil pan etc...
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k1.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k2.jpg

Crank sproket, and oil pump spacer , removed.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k3.jpg

Water pump out, notice the corrosion on the blades... 180K Kilometers, will do the job....
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k4.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k5.jpg

Front cover (oil pump) out - here the chain...
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k6.jpg

Chain off, Bottom crank ladder coming off.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k7.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k8.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k9.jpg

Removing rod bearing fastners, and taking out pistons and rods, from the top.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k10.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k11.jpg

Removing rear engine cover.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k12.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k13.jpg

Pistons out, removing oil jets and oil baffle.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k14.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k15.jpg

Thats it, the block is stripped.
Now, te findings:

Pistons, Rods, Crank bearings etc...
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/p1.jpg

The 3rd rod bearings, compared to some good rod bearings, notice how difformed are they.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/p2.jpg

The crank.... Notice the 3rd ** bearing place - you can see how scortched it is... New Crank time...:cry:
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/p3.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/p4.jpg

Thats it for now... i have my work cut out for me, so i will appritiate any pointers.... Am i dooing tings good or wrong, what to do next...etc.

Next step is to strip the head, and clean everything and send it to the matchine shop, as soon as my pistons arrive.

BTW, can anyone expand on the MODS needed done for fitting the ARP studs ?

Thanks !!!

[Dave_S]

Hi there,

I'm afraid I can't help on a technical front and you may have been trying to save people's bandwidth but I'd personally put [img ] tags around all of the pics then people might be more inclined to read the whole thread.

We all love pics but some people are lazier than others :D

Dave

[thenickos]

Engine on the oil pan - wil be replaced anyway - good enough for now...
Air con compressor removed, alternator removed, turbo and manifold removed...
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/e1.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/e2.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/e3.jpg

Engine cover off, camshafts, retainers, sprokets, shims, all off to expose the head bolts.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/h1.jpg

Head removed togheter with the intake manifold - as per the manual.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/h2.jpg

Engine on its "head", starting to remove the oil pan etc...
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k1.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k2.jpg

Crank sproket, and oil pump spacer , removed.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k3.jpg

Water pump out, notice the corrosion on the blades... 180K Kilometers, will do the job....
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k4.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k5.jpg

Front cover (oil pump) out - here the chain...
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k6.jpg

[thenickos]

Chain off, Bottom crank ladder coming off.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k7.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k8.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k9.jpg

Removing rod bearing fastners, and taking out pistons and rods, from the top.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/my...r20det/k10.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/my...r20det/k11.jpg

Removing rear engine cover.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/my...r20det/k12.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/my...r20det/k13.jpg

Pistons out, removing oil jets and oil baffle.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/my...r20det/k14.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/my...r20det/k15.jpg

Thats it, the block is stripped.
Now, te findings:

Pistons, Rods, Crank bearings etc...
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/p1.jpg

The 3rd rod bearings, compared to some good rod bearings, notice how difformed are they.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/p2.jpg

The crank.... Notice the 3rd ** bearing place - you can see how scortched it is... New Crank time...
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/p3.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/p4.jpg

[paulsx]

First off you would have been better off cleaning the engine before you started. I know you will have it done later but it pays to clean it before you start stripping it.

Secondly are you hoping to re-build the engine outside?.

You don't need a new crank, the one you have will be fine with a re-grind. Most of the stuff you see on the bearing journal is alloy from the bearing. Just get it reground and order oversize bearings:thumbs:

You need to check the cams for wear and use new camshaft spray bars as your engine looks fairly cooked inside:thumbs:

Finally Nismo Mark covered a rebuild, it should be in the technical stickies at the top:thumbs:

[Richy_Boy]

Top pictures :thumbs: keep the thread updated and it'd be most helpful!

Rich

[Mark]

Looking good :thumbs:

BTW you havent taken the 'most fooked bearing' award from me :wack:

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=35229&stc=1&d=1152607119

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=35230&stc=1&d=1152607119

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=35231&stc=1&d=1152607119

This was my camshafts

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=35232&stc=1&d=1152607119

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=35233&stc=1&d=1152607119


:D

as Paul said, check my rebuild guide in the useful thread sticky :thumbs:

[OdEssA]

You don't need a new crank, the one you have will be fine with a re-grind. Most of the stuff you see on the bearing journal is alloy from the bearing. Just get it reground and order oversize bearings:thumbs:
If you want a reliable 400bhp. you better buy a new crank. I got less wear on mine and bought also a new crank after advice from my engine builder and several other people. A engine builder can measure something important about the strength off the crank, its not because the crank 'looks' like new that everything is good.
Good luck with the rebuild Master Chief, i did almost 7 months on mine, mostly because waiting after genuine Nissan parts :rolleyes:

[Master Chief]

Well Odessa, i was hoping to have the engine done, by SEPTEMBER - this year..... Hope i wont get stuck with parts.

Mark - I didnt take the AWARD from you, simply becase i didnt use the car, after it started nocking... I originaly thaught the problem was a bent rod...
Allso, my camshafts are like new really, nothing like yours, cant imagine how they would get that way really. I plan to upgrade to some HKS cams, after the runing in.
BTW: Offcours i checked your tread - helped my belive i can do it myself.

Paulsx - cant really se why bodder cleaning up before the strip. Everything goes anyway, and its a waste of time cleaning everything twice.
As for the crank, belive me - its not just metal from the bearing. I would have it regrind, but that requiers a dynamic balancing afterwards, and there is no such facility in my country. Allso wouldnt like start breaking my mind selecting new size bearings. A new crank, with STD bearings, will be a SURE bet.... Dont whant any adventures here.
As for the spray bars, i'll try cleaning them...I dont see what could be wrong there expet a block, that can be cleaned.


About cleaning.... How do you clean the OLD HG Traces, from the block and head ?

Will keep posted....thanks.

[Mark]

Get the head skimmed :nod:

clean the block face with some emery paper :thumbs:

[Master Chief]

Wont skimming the head, affect the comprtion ratio , or the skimming is very light so it wont really affect it ?
Can't skimming cause the head to be one size in one side, and difrent in the other. I am kind of scared with whatever involves removing material....

[OdEssA]

Skimming the head and the block is a must :nod: You can buy a thicker MHG ;)

[nene]

Wont skimming the head, affect the comprtion ratio , or the skimming is very light so it wont really affect it ?
It will affect it, but only by a very small amount.

The service manual has figures for the limits of material removed from both the block and head. It's not something I would worry about, but if you're a worrier you can take up OdEssA's suggestion and buy a thicker (metal) headgasket.


Can't skimming cause the head to be one size in one side, and difrent in the other. I am kind of scared with whatever involves removing material....
Theoretically, yes, but that would require a marked lack of competence by the people doing it :) Well, unless the head was slightly warped and it was being skimmed flat again, but that's supposed to happen then :D

What's important more than anything is that the surfaces are flat and free of debris.

[OptiBull]

Just striped down my spare SR20, looked exactly the same. Head coaked up with cr@p (Blocked spray bars) and exactly the same 3rd big end looked the same as yours. I have not had a good look at my crank yet but i intend just to re grind it.

[OdEssA]

Also wouldnt like start breaking my mind selecting new size bearings. A new crank, with STD bearings, will be a SURE bet.....
Its not so easy like that for the right bearings :no: thats one off the reasons i need almost 7 months to finish my rebuild ;) If you want more info about the correct bearings you need a number on your block. Read THIS (http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=167062&page=3&highlight=bearings) for more information about the correct bearings you need ;)

[Master Chief]

I read thru that, but there is no conclution there ? What numbers you looked at from the block eventualy, and what grade of bearings did you get ?
cant imagine why the STD bearings would be wrong if you use a brand new crank, especialy if these are the bearings you had in the enigne before stripping......unless the new crank has difrent size jurnals, but its kind of unlickly. The bearings grades just go from Standart to thicker and thicker...Not using the STD bearings, would mean that the new crank has thinner jurnals.... could this be ???

Allso, does anyone know how to thake the HIDRAULIC valve lashers, out of the head ? It appears i have some air in some of them, and would like to bleed it our as per the manual..... Do i simply have to pull them ? They are very sleepery.
As i understan i shouldnt be able to compress them by pushing on them, unless they have air inside....right ?

[paulsx]

The crank journals vary in size which is why they use graded shells. When you buy a new crank it will be marked on one of the webs. You then need to either look in the manual and calculate the correct bearing grade or use plasti gauge to measure the bearing clearances.

When you have a crank re-ground they measure each journal as they grind it and so end up with nominal size journals suitable for the bearings your using which are normally not graded if they are aftermarket bearings.

[OdEssA]

What numbers you looked at from the block eventualy, and what grade of bearings did you get ?

Nissan need the numbers on the engine when you order the bearings, and you can find that number on this pic in the corner left side above from this picture :) Because there was a number missing on my block i order 'ACL' bearings instead of Nissan bearings.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/k7.jpg


cant imagine why the STD bearings would be wrong if you use a brand new crank.
I tought the same like you, but Bren explain me why there are no standaard thickness bearings.
The crank is attached to the block and they need the depth of your block and thats why you need the 4 numbers on your block :)
Now i hope that you understand my English :wack:

[OdEssA]

The number on my block was, F ?212 CBT (?=missing number ;) )
Thats mean that i need a bearing grade 2 a bearing grade 1 and another bearing grade 2 :)
I hope thats help you a bit more why you need the number on your block.

[DR1FT3R]

when i rebuilt me astra engine i used a sheet of glass, some valve grinding paste and a true 90 degree block of metal i swiped from the bluing bit at work.put some grinding paste on the glass and the blue stuff on the head surface. place the head on the glass and push it up against the 90 degree block (clean head is important) then circle motions with the head and block until all blue is gone and repeat until satisfied that the head is flat and square. that took me about 4 hours to get right but did save me a bit of money and didn't have to wait around :nod:

[Master Chief]

DR1FT3R - it might be my english, but i didnt quite understand what and how you did it.

I'll look where you told me Odessa, though i dodnt remeber seeing any numbers where the manual says.
A strange thing though... i have the FAST program,and the part number that is on my big end ROD bearings - "STD 12111-60J00", doesnt appear as a valid number in FAST. In fast the Big Rod bearings appear like "12111-1N500" fir STD grade 0, "12111-1N501" for STD grade 1, and so on.....exept the STD, and the 12111 - it doesnt look like anything written on the bearings themselves..... i'll look closer 2morrow, allso on the main bearings.

[DR1FT3R]

the paste is abrasive in a few different grades. i kept the block square using the block and just used the paste on a sheet of glass until the head was flat, square and all the old baked on gasket was gone :nod:

[Master Chief]

Ok - i have further done some research, and Nissan defently have about 6 diffrent grades for the STD bearings. The KING bearings i have probably wot be good for me. I'll have to wait for the new crank to see exactly what bearings i'll have to get, and i'll probably get them from nissan, unless someone knows of someone that makes UPRATED bearings in diffrent grades.

Allso - Does any on know the part number of the - "Oil Pump Rotors" kit replacment, so i wont jave to buy a whole ne front cover.
I can find these for sell anywhare on the internet.

Thanks.

[KEYBOY]

would just like to say fair play to you master chief for doing it yourself :thumbs: .
I am currently aiming for about the same as you 400bhp + but am paying someone to do it for me . Interesting to read your progress though as i can quiz my engineers about the nitti gritti :nod:

[Master Chief]

Dont worry i will update as i go along.
Start by making sure he uses a toque plate to bore the cylinders.
Allso thet he matches the right bearingsfor your Crank/Block !

[Master Chief]

Ok a quick update.
Getting a bit bored waiting for my parts, i got some time (about 7 hours) and polished my valve cover....
Still need to make some small finishes, but you can get the general drift.
The middle part (red in the photo) will be colored in blue, to match the color of my sparco hoses.

I allso had the intake manifold, and other parts, sand blasted to make them look new, but i would like to make them look a bit shinier beacuse now, they are like "mat silver / greyish-white" ..... Any ideas ?
As polishing them like i did to the valve cover is a NO NO, because the manifold is not smooth and it would take a lot of work to smooth it.

So? What do you tink ?

http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/camcover1.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/camcover2.jpg

[WideboyS14]

what did you use to polish the cover?

[j4mes]

bloody good job mate, well done

[Master Chief]

I used two sets of this -
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/images/products/hi/MM060220206.jpg

I am not from England, but i see you can get this here :
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=060220206&r=2132&g=116

[Master Chief]

Didnt have a chance to update lately, too much work, too litlle time.

In the mean time, i got some work done RENEWING a SR20DE 60mm TB i got from Japan.... Maxes a lot mure sence then the big 80mm TM from Ebay, and much more then the punny 50mm we have.

Allso added a photo of all the parts i hve until now, excluding some oem bolts and gaskets that just werent very photogenic....

Would be nice to heare som positive input to keep me going..... Getting tyerd pretty quickly.

http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/tb01.JPG
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/tb02.JPG
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/tb03.JPG
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/tb04.JPG
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/tb05.JPG

I love this pic..... It just reminds me how much money i've spent...:rolleyes:
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/endparts1.JPG
Dont mind the "bling bling" Greddy Pulleys..... Threre are some serious stuff in the photo too...:)

[j4mes]

looking good mate, is the throttle bosy a direct fit? and what about the gasket, can the standard one be used

[Master Chief]

Yes , its a direct fit and out side dimentions as the original one. The only thing that is difrent is the butterfly wich is 60mm instead of 50mm.

The vacum pipe that is missing on the new TB, is actualy blocked off in the original TB - So hence, everything is the same !

[VeilSide200sx]

Where did you get the throttle body from chief?:)

[Master Chief]

There are plenty on Ebay.
Its the SR20DE Throttle. They come like that from Nissan !

I wonder if it would give any improvment, but i get i wont notice it with all the other changes.

[Quarantine]

I love that pic too....wow.
keep us up to date wit the install

[Master Chief]

Hei guys, long time no update, but work is comming along.
First phase of the rebuild can be found here :
http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=226539

Ok, now since i started this project i learned a lot, some the hard way, some the internet way. In general i think its comming along great, just a bit slow because i dont have a lot of time.

After a lot of search, i finally found a machine shop in Israel, that would be patient enough to go along with my demands, and proffesional enough to do a good work.

Last measurments before the machining of the block for the Darton sleeves and pistons.... Had a lot of fun learning to work with all these measurment tools.

Here i measure the pistons,at the height specified by CP.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/ms4.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/ms3.jpg

CP's quality is utstanding, and all the pistons meassured exactly the same.
CP have the needed clearances built in to the PISTON, and these are for a 86.5 bore, so meassuring to the specified size, ment that the bore would need to be exactly 86.5 at the end.

On the way, some more meassurments were done, of the crank jurnals for matching bearings, sleeves dimentions for block boring and so on.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/ms1.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/ms2.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/ms5.jpg

Installing the boring and installing the sleeves was next, and was a defent learning experience.
DARTON specify, boring the block for the exact sleeve dimentions up to 0.01 mm bigger.
This would allow the sleeves to be installed by simple heatting of the block (no more the sun heating or open flame), and inserting them by hand.
In no way using a "PRESS" or any pressure or force during the install.

Boring of te bottom step of the sleeve:
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bbo1.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bbo2.jpg

Boring of the middle step of the sleeve:
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bbo3.jpg

To hold the sleeves to the block, and make a tight seal between the sleeve and the block wall, LOCTITE 518, or 620 is used.
This should be applied only on the bore wall at the lower step, and not on the sleeve itself (learned the hard way), since the clearance is so small between the sleeve and block wall, the LOCTITE gets pushed to the step groove, and creates a hydrostatic lock, that prevents the sleeve seatting proparly.
This could cause the sleeve to "sink" during time, and cause head gasket issues.

Heatting the block with Open flame:
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bbo4.jpg

Meassuring bore expention - (0.05 mm is more than enough for installation):
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bbo5.jpg

Installing the sleeves - They simply drop in to place:
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bbo6.jpg

Now the top of the sleeves is higher than the block's deck, and before we deck the block, we need to make sure the sleeves are seating properly.
To make sure, we used the torque plate, to press on the sleeves, for 24H until the Loctite dried up.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bbo7.jpg

After 24H we resume work, and was time to deck the block.
Meassurement were taken to make sure the decking is streight and paralel to the crank centerline.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bbo8.jpg

Next was the boring for the cylinders.
Here i used the ARP studs for fastening the torque plate, since these are the bolts that will be used at the end.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bbo9.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bbo91.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bbo92.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bbo10.jpg

Checking the final cylinder bore, after all boring and honing completed, showed that after we removed the torque plate the bores got distorted and oval, by 0.01-0.015 mm in difrent directions.
Conclution - USE a torque plate !

Thats it for now.

Next was matching bearing to the crank and block, but thats on the next update.

What do you guys think ?

[boosted drifter]

Looking good keep up the good work:thumbs:

[Squares]

That looks really great, fair play!:nod: :thumbs:

Can I ask why you went for darton sleaves but only a 86.5mm bore? Were you not tempted to go for a larger bore?

Cheers.:)

[Master Chief]

Well the fact is that i didnt plan on going for sleeves at all.
I originaly opted for 86.5, as first Oversize and leave it at that.
But unfortunatly, i found a problem that could best be fixed by using sleeves:
http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=232866

Since i already had the pistons , i decided to use what i have, and not order new ones....

I dont know if its not a missed oportunity, but the costs skyrocketed anyway, so i had to stop at some stage.

[Actual_Ben_Taylor]

Looks like you found a good machine shop :) Good luck with the rest of the build

[Colin Gibson]

a bigger overbore would be nice, but even at 86.5, the cylinders do look fairly close.
At least you now know that you have really good, solid combustion chambers for high boosting.

[Error404]

looking good - very interesting for a rebuild virgin like me :thumbs:

[Master Chief]

Very interesting for a building virgin like me too :)

And that is right, the cubustion chambers should be safer for high boosting, this way, with over 5 mm of ductail iron, compared to the 1 - 1.5 mm of the OEM wall.

Though those sleves are designed to take a 90mm boring, wich means almost 2.2 cc's.

Next time....

[Bean Bandit]

yay looking good chief... I just fetched myself a broken SR last week and going through similar work this winter... be hazlacha (spl?)

PS: When I visit my family next time, I'll drop you a line and pop over (already missing the nice wheater) :)

[j4mes]

wow. i love watching this, my biggest interest in cars is the engine, just wish i had the money to do stuff like this, its amazing

[Chem200]

Looking good :thumbs: Keep up the great work and lots updates :notworthy

I'll drop my engine off next week and you can do the same to mine :wack:

[Master Chief]

Chem200, belive me i wish i did this for a living, but here in Israel, exept the fact that TUNING is not really legal, and even worst - MotorSport in general, is non existent, we have a much bigger problem.
People dont like to pay, and they dont appritiate quality work,
So i guess i'll keep doing this for fun.

Bean Bandit - why not - I drop you a line and pop over.... :)
Anyway hope the ptoject to be over by then, so you'll have something to see !

Thanks guys !

[Master Chief]

Well its been quite while now, but the winter and some other stuff, prevented any real progress.
The first 2 phases of the project can be found here :
Phase 1: http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=226539
Phase 2: http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=249061

Anyway, here is an update on whats beeing done.

After the engine got back from the machine shop, and all was checked to be as requested - reguarding Piston to bore clerances, Honing cross hatch ETC (Thanks fo the help of some of you, reassuring me things are OK), the next thing was a quick Deburring of the block , especialy in HG contact areas - Just to be sure.

Tool:
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/deb0.jpg

Water port before deburring:
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/deb1.jpg

Water port after deburring:
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/deb2.jpg


Next on the menu, was the porting of the water pump passage ways, wich have a very restrictive 90DEG corners, at the pump exits - wich i am guessing acount for the many Cavitaion marks around.

Notice the 90DEG knife sharp corners:
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/wp0.jpg

http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/wp1.jpg

Porting away:
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/wp2.jpg

http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/wp3.jpg

http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/wp4.jpg

http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/wp5.jpg

[Master Chief]

Finaly, all messy work on the block, was done - and it was time for CLEANING.
Using plenty of engine degresser from STP, and WD40 for constantly lubricating the bores to prevent rust, the enghne was washed with warm watter and soap - especialy the cyinders, to remove all the Honing residues.

Plenty of water and soap, thru all the water and oil passge ways:
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bprep0.jpg

http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bprep1.jpg

http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bprep2.jpg


Mounting on a Stand, and drying everything with Compressed air and Sun light, while keeping the cylinders lubricated with WD40 - to prevent rust, wich otherways accumulates on the cylinder walls in a matter of seconds !!!
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bprep3.jpg

http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bprep4.jpg

http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bprep5.jpg

http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bprep6.jpg


At tis point a decided to paint the block, so after all was dry, i went over the outside with paint Thinner, removing all traces of oild and grease.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bprep7.jpg

The before:
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bprep8.jpg

The After:
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bprep9.jpg

I used a mat silver spary, for high temps, up to 1200F. Should be enough :wack: .

[Master Chief]

Now was time for some internal stuff.
Gapping the rings and weight matching everything.

Gapping the rings needs to be done, using a turque plate , torqued down to spec. The folowing pics are without the Torque plate, just to be more clear for the photos sake.

The rings were gapped using a ring filler tool - the only way to do it proparly, and i have tried many other ways - it allway came out wrong, without the tool.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/rings0.jpg

Ring in the bore:
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/rings2.jpg

Using a piston to square the ring in the bore, at the depth spec. by the manufacturer - 0.5", or at the piston ring's TDC position.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/rings1.jpg

Using a feeler gauge, to test the Gap. I consider a good measure, when the filler slides in with a bit of drag from the ring tension, so that the ring's tension will hold the feeler in place.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/rings3.jpg

After ruining a few sets, in my experience, i can advice, using very small amounts of filling the ring each time, and repetable meassuring , again and again. Allso make sure the the ring ends, are kep square to each other, and whn in contact the fit perfectly. You could look into the light, and see if the ring ends, line up properly.

Allso, make sure, after each time you file, that you use a very fine grint stone, to pass the ring end over it a few times, to remove any burrs remaining from the ring filing.

Installing the rings, was a bit stressfull, as the second ring beeing very hard to expand enough to slide over the piston. Using a ring gapping tool, caused the ring to distort, so i eventualy used my hands to make sure i open the ring up, evenky. I do have two small holes in both my tumbs now. :cry:

First was cleaning the ring lands, using some thinner, and checking for any burrs remaining from the machining of the piston, to prevent smooth movment of the ring, inside its slot:
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/rings4.jpg

Streching the Second ring..... Ouch !!!
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/rings5.jpg

Finally, all in place:
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/rings6.jpg


Now, weight matching all the parts for each cylinder, trying to equalize the weight distribution over the crank pins.
Note: Because its not a V type engine, the conrods can be weighted as a whole. On V Shaped engines, the Big ends and small ends need to be weighted separatly. There would be no benefit doing so in our engines.

http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/match0.jpg

http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/match1.jpg

The cylinder assembly's were matched withing 0.4 Grams, between the haviest to the lightest.
Each cylinder assembly actually weights about 200Grams, less the the OEM one - That is about 1Kg in total, off the moving parts of the engine - Not bad. Should improve on reving up.


Final thing for this update, is the polishing of the Combustion chamber in the head. The idea is that the polishing will reflect the heat off the cjambers walls, instead of the walls apsorbing it, and hence help against detonation and help maintain the temperature of the burned gases, helping them to exit quicker on the exhaust stroke.

A lot of work !

The ports were left untuched, since we dont have an access to a flow bench , so its not worth porting on blind - risking hurtting rather than helping.

The new OEM head is covered in protective wax, that found its way - EVERYWHERE. I used a lot of Petrol, to remove it.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/hp0.jpg

Nice and clean.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/hp1.jpg

Final product:
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/hp3.jpg



Thats it for now. During the next few weeks, i'll start putting the engine togheter. Hope it all goes well, since the car is off the road for 9 months now - and i really miss it !

Gim'e some feedback please :nod:

[Chem200]

Following this thread with great interest! Top work and very nice right up :nod: :thumbs:

[Kford]

Really good thread keep it up :thumbs:

[Master Chief]

Thanks guys.
Next step is to match the new valves, with the proper shims.

Will be needing to make that Nissan tool for that, but it shouldnt be a big problem.

[Master Chief]

Anyone has any pictures or specs of the special tool for meassuring the valve shims ?

As i want to make one, i was wondering how did others built it.

[Master Chief]

Anyone ?

[LiGhTnInG]

WOW!

What an awesome thread. have spent about half an hour studying your photos and reading your posts.

Keep up the good work.

[Supraman]

Wowwwwwwwww what job done!!!

[liquidsmoke]

So did you have to take any material out of the rods or pistons to make them weigh identical?

You have CP pistons yeah; what rods are they?

[DR1FT3R]

also where was the material removed from

[Master Chief]

I didnt remove any material, or did i plan to remove any material of the Rods or the Pistons !

There are Eagle Rods, and CP Pistons.

The CP's with rings on, weighted : 334.8 334.1 334.3 334.2
(The photos show a wrong number, cuz the scale is not sitting right - it was just for the photo sake :) )
The Rods : 540.3 540.7 540.5 540.5

The total weights with Pins, Cirlips and bearings : 1006.1 1005.8 1005.8 1005.7

As you can see, all are within a max of 0.4 grams from each other - more than enough.

I could start removing material here and there, but i dont think that lees than half a gram diference, is worht risking the strucutal integrity of the rods, and risking creating stress points. The same goes for the pistons.

If we are on the subject, how would you spred the above cylinder asemblys , over the crank ?
Wich would you put in the middle, wich on the front ans o on ?

I was thinking meaby puting the heaviest on the front (no 1), and the lightest one on the back (no 4) ..... What do you think ?

BTW: Thanks, for the kind words everyone !!! Keep it up :)

[IKRAM]

Any update on this bud?

[Master Chief]

Quite a few actualy. Just didnt have the time to update...
Will do that soon.

[red_rider]

Hi
looking good on the rebuild cant wait to see what you have been up to...

After reading your post I will be strating on my own rebuild in July fingers crossed.

[Squares]

Anyone has any pictures or specs of the special tool for meassuring the valve shims ?

As i want to make one, i was wondering how did others built it.

I do now mate, well I have the tool at least, will take some pics for you.:nod:

I just gave a lifter or "lash adjuster" to a friend, so he made a solid alloy copy in a lathe with a thread in the top, that you can screw the mount for a dial gauge too.:)

looking forward to those updates!:)

[Master Chief]

Thanks Square, but i already had in made.... Lets compare them :-)
Anyway i was sorry to hear about the problems you dave - Comented to that on your thread.

Now i will go get some updates for this thread....

[Master Chief]

Ok, an update is long overdue.

The updates come a lot slower than the actual progress, due to me not having any spare time....

Anyway, we left off at the head combustion chamber polishing.
Some of you recomanded not to miss the oportunity to do some Port's polishing and ruff casting removing.

Ass before i didnt want to remove any material from the ports, as i dont have access to a flow banch, so i only polished the Exhaust ports, Only Removed ruff casting from the Inlet ports, checked the manifolds port matching, and smoothed the valve sits into the runners.

Intake Ports - Just removed the casting inperfections.
It is not good to smooth too much the Inlet Ports, as too smooth surface will cause fuel puddling and bad fuel atomization.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/hpf2.jpg

Exhaust ports, polished to mirror finish. This will help radiate heat from the head walls back to the exhaust gases wich will help them move faster.
Allso this will help stop carbon from building up on the walls, etc...
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/hpf3.jpg

And here is a final look of the polished combustion chamber, showing the exhaust ports on top, bled in wit the seats as best as could be done without removing too much material.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/hpf4.jpg

That should do it for the head polishing and porting chapter.

Next starts the bottom end assembly:

First we start with the crank inside oil baffle, oir squirt thingys, and the lower MAIN bearings.
As this is an Old block and i have a new crank to fit, going by "the book" and selecting the bearings by the Codes imprinted on the crank and block, wasnt good enough. The clerances were to small on two of the bearings. Might have to do with the block distorting a bit since it left the Nissan factory a decade ago. I belive that going srictly be the codes on the crank and block, would work only if using a NEW block and Crank.
Anyway followed the manual procedure to meassure the inner diams. of the bearings and selecting proper bearing for the mid range of the specified clerances in the book - using a bore gauge etc.....

http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bbf1.jpg

Cleaning the bottom oil squirt assemblies is crutial. The small passage inside the squirt is less the 0.5mm in diam. This means that the smallest trace of dirt will clog them up. I ended up using a dental string to pass thru and clean the passage way of the squirt.

Squirts, before and after - Like new !!!
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bbf2a.jpg

Squirts, baffle and lower bearings in place.
(The bearings can actually be put in later)
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bbf2.jpg

.....

[Master Chief]

Next are the pistons.

Sliding the piston pins in to the pistons, revealed a but of drag going in.
A bit of casting dust on the pin would cause the pin to get stuck nad not rotate freely. Using a bit of polish compound and a dremmel with a very soft buff, it worked out just fine.

Installing th CirClips on these pistons was a brezee, especialy compared to the Spring type clips that come on other piston brands.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/ppf1.jpg

Next were the Main cause of this project begining... the ROD Bearings.
Not to go wrong, i choose the TOMEI brand Bearings, wich soposed to have some better oil retaining properties due to some special finish.
I guess you cant go to wrong with Tomei and it costs about te same as OEM.
Here, in oposed to the Main bearings, since the CRANK and RODS are brand new, the Bearing grades on the crank were spot on ! Everything was checked offcours using proper meassuring procedure and tools.

Here i install the bearing, starting at on side, and pressing only one side at a time. Pressing both sides at once, will cause scuffing of the bearing on the ROD side. Wach out for this, ad the metal from the scuffing will kill the bearing surface, so make sure the bearing surface is clean.
I recomande before installing the bearings, rubbing there surface with your tumbs, as hard as you can. ONLY WITH YOUR THUMB !!!
Allso make sure there is no OIL on the back of the bearing. Install them DRY.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/ppf2.jpg

Finally - Installing the Pistons in the block !
Before that, the cylinder walls must be clean as possible. I used a soft cloth that doesnt leave treads, to rub the cylinder walls , again, with some thinner, and blow some air to dry them.
Allso i have installed everything DRY ! No Oil anywhere (for now).

I put some cut out glove fingers on the Rod tips, to make sure i dont scratch the cylinder walls and crank jurnals (when i install the crank).
Allso, i used a specific bore size ring compressor - Its easyer to work with than the universal type.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/ppf3.jpg

Light Tapping with a plastic hummer - waching not to ruin the crown coating.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/ppf4.jpg

All in, and just checking that the Oil Squirts dont catch on the pistons sqirts.
(The "condoms" were removed for the picture at this time).
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/bbf3.jpg

Next, i need to upload more photos :)

I have many many many photos of all stages of the build, and i find it hard to deside wich to upload or not. I think i will go thru the next few stages a bit shorter on the explaining, unless anyone is interested in something in particular, or i feel i have something important to say.

[Master Chief]

Ok, here goes some more.....

Now was time to recheck all bearing clerances with PlastiGauge, and check the all runs smoothly.
For this we had to torque everyhting to Specs.

First were the Rod bearings.
As i wanted to use a Strech Gauge for tighteing the Rod bolts, i needed to have access to the rod big ends, and so i installed the crank only temporary - scuring it only with 3 shells, without the Ladder.... No need to torue it down, just hold it in place.

Make sure you use plenty of oil to lubricate all bearing surfaces and crank jurnals.

Here is the crank in place, mind the "Condoms" on the rod's big ends - to protect the crank jurnals.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/DSCF1301.JPG


PlastiGauge:
Using the plastigauge means that everything needs to be torqued to specs with the palstigauge installed, then opened up, checked, and returqed back for the finish product. A lot of work, but worth the piece of mind later.
All described below was done once with plastigauge and later (for keeps).

The rods were checked - two at a time, since there wasnt enough access to tight all the big ends using the strech gauge, and you are not allowed to turn the crank while the plastigauge is on the bearings.

It is allso more simple to check the main bearings alone and the rod bearings alone.

Make sure you oil the jurnal and bearing before you attach the plastigauge to them, so it will be easyer to remove. Allso attach the plastigauge to the crank jurnal and not to the bearing on the shell !

When finnished make sure you remove all the traces of the plastigauge from both jurnal and bearings !!! Use plenty of oil !!!

Here i am checking the plastigauge on one of the bearings:
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/DSCF1315.JPG



Torquing and Tighteing:
Lubricating the Rod bolts using the ARP Lube. This is not as important when using the Strech method, as it is when using a turque wrench, but still - Its better the using oil.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/DSCF1361.JPG


Here i used a piece of wood, to jam the crank so it wont turn during the titening of the rid bolts.
Allso while using the plastigauge, it is forbitten to move the crank, so this will cover that as well.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/DSCF1354.JPG

The rod shells are put in place. Make sure you pare each rod with its own shell. They are all numbered on the side (on Eagle rods anyway), and they are not interchangable ! Allso make sure you put them in the right way (The numbers on the same side), as putting them 180deg. will cause the bearings not to allign, and kill the bearing on the first few seconds of engine runing.

Here you see the strech gauge installed on the rod bolt. Tightening using the strech gauge is the MOST acurate way of tightening bolts. Unfortunatly on most cases you cant use a strech gauge. Here on the other hand its duable, and since its such a critical area, i recomand all to use one !
You simply install it on the bolt, as you see - and using an O type wrench, you tight the bolt until the gauge reaches the specified value.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/DSCF1358.jpg
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/DSCF1359.jpg

....

[Master Chief]

Next is the final torquing of the main Shells.
Bearings installed, and again - plenty of oil !!!

BTW: By now you should have, at some point, torqued the crank and mains with the ladder, to specs , without the pistons, and checked that you are able to turn it smoothly, by bear hand !


Make sure you oil the MAINS bolts and washers, and that the treads are clean, otherwise the torque will affected, and give difrent results on different bolts.

ALLSO MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL THE MAINS BOLT WASHERS - THE RIGHT SIDE UP (thats the rounded endge side, facing the top of the bolt).
I did this wrong the first time, and when i noticed the manual mentioning this, it nagged me until i opened the sump and redid this.
All washers on the engine - (Head, camshaft, manis, crank pooley...etc) have a side that has to face up !

First we use a quality torque wrench, to torque to the manual specs.
Dont be cheap here. A cheap torque wrench, will not be consistent, and probably wont even torque to the number you set it at. Its no place to take chances - stay away from the china man here !!! (No offence)
Try to make the make the final turn of the bolt, in one smooth move, instead of many small once. Allso move as slowly as you can.
This will assure consistent results.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/DSCF1364.JPG

Next step, as per the manual, is using an angle wrench. Dont go by eye, as its pretty easy to mistake 45deg, to 55deg - and it could be the difrence between smooth crank movment, to crank sticking !
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/DSCF1369.JPG

After all is finished, make sure all turns by hand. Yes. Even with the pistons connected to the crank you should still be able to turn the crank by hand. I sugest using a rubber glove, to get a strong enough grip of the crank's tip.
Around TDC, it should be really easy to turn the whole assembly.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/DSCF1269.JPG

http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/DSCF1370.JPG

Finally starts to look like an engine !
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/DSCF1371.JPG

Next is the rear cover. I am using the Geniune Nissan Gasket fluid.
Make sure you use a bed of gFluid, and not just smear the Gfluid.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/DSCF1414.JPG

http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/DSCF1415.JPG

Thats it for now, i'll update more during the few next days !

[Squares]

Nice work mate!:)

[Supraman]

Wooooooow beautiful work done!!! :thumbs: