View Full Version : I've done some bodging
EDIT:
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This has turned out to be far longer than expected, and it's since been moved to Projects, and merged with numerous other bodges, so I'm slowly adding this index to the first post, which should help locate things, for those who are interested. :) Index is done by post number (until I work out how to do it by hyperlink to a post in a thread, without only showing the thread... :wack:)
Upside down FMIC (http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=274474&p=2737242&postcount=7)
Trip to the weigh-bridge (http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=274474&p=2742541&postcount=35)
Nick starts considering moving the radiator to the boot (http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=274474&p=2743456&postcount=102)
Dash removed and replaced (http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=274474&p=2755108&postcount=166)
Cerial box washer bottle in the boot (http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=274474&p=2768549&postcount=172)
Plywood front splitter and big ghey wing (http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=274474&p=2941150&postcount=177)
Extended wheel arches (http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=274474&p=3111633&postcount=221)
Brake ducting (http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=274474&p=3112970&postcount=231)
Lockable bonnet pins (http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=274474&p=3113006&postcount=234)
SARD R2D2 recirc (http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=274474&p=3113859&postcount=261)
BIG rad arrives... (http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=274474&p=3168473&postcount=314)
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And this is the original post.... :thumbs:
I moved my bren device and atmos dump valve to the hot pipe last weekend, both about a couple of inches from the tubby.
Vast improvement. No spiking anymore (this I believe is due to the bren device having an inch of hose to the hot pipe, and about 4 inches to the actuator). Oddly though, the annoying stalling / judder whilst trying to hold a steady throttle (ie just off boost), has significantly reduced too. I assume this is because i move the dump valve, but can't be sure. Any thoughts?
MeLLoN Stu
28-09-2006, 23:11
can't say i experienced any spiking with the bren device where yours formally was :confused:
A few folk did - i think largely due to increased length of pipework when going to a FMIC to the device.
http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/search.php?searchid=2866474
Maybe it depends on which piece of pipe is too long - boost to bren device, or bren deive to actuator... dunno:confused:
but it's gone now :D :thumbs:
I had huge spiking when I had the boost control feed coming from the plenum (old charcoal cannister). All gone since i moved it to the hotpipe too.
Also that shuddering on part throttle and a little boost completely vanished when I put my old recirc back in ;)
Also that shuddering on part throttle and a little boost completely vanished when I put my old recirc back in ;)
Yeah - that's an option too, but they leak. Ideally I'd like an HKS SSQV with recirc, but I bought a SARD before i knew anything (not that i do now!). The alternative is to possible turn the AFM into a blow through - ie move it after the turbo. Lot of faff for not much though...
Yeah - that's an option too, but they leak.
Not of you block the hole :thumbs:
Finally got round to doing it. Turned my FMIC upside down and routed the pipe work up behind the headlights on each side, removing about a foot and a half of pipe. Works a treat.
Combined with moving the dump valve and bren device to the hot pipe there's zero spiking, practically zero jerking when holding a constant throttle just on the edge of boost, and significantly less lag. Closer to being like driving NA. :thumbs:
I am happy :sxoc: , especially having sorted some handling issues out, and spent the afternoon booting around the Kent country side with a MASSIVE grin on my face. :D
Excellent ! :thumbs:
What kind of FMIC do you have ??
I want to bring my Apexi GT FMIC "in-board" where the radiator is for the same reason - reduce lag time - articles in Autospeed.au sparked off that idea.
Any piccies ?? :nod:
Gary@APT
07-10-2006, 20:40
have you measure air charge temps??
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//DSC00596.JPG
i did it 6 months ago:p
indeed. In fact when i thought of it someone said you had, so that spurred me on. :thumbs: :D
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//DSC00596.JPG
crumbs - never seen a picture of it though. Nice. I left mine where it was, but turned it upside down. Now I'm thinking I need to move it again! :rolleyes:
have you measure air charge temps??
yeah, but it doesn't seem to have made any difference there. Wouldn't have expected it to though. Same IC, just less pipework.
i found much better off boost responce :nod:
i found much better off boost responce :nod:
I guess I do too. Things are more responsive, and the transition from off boost to boost is more progressive.
Did you weld your own pipework up?
driftingking
07-10-2006, 21:33
can anyone tell me what a FMIC is and where is it located?any pics? i have alot of turbo lag but dont know how to get rid of it. any ideas???
thanx
driftingking
07-10-2006, 21:33
can anyone tell me what a FMIC is and where is it located?any pics? i have alot of turbo lag but dont know how to get rid of it. any ideas???
thanx
can anyone tell me what a FMIC is and where is it located?any pics? i have alot of turbo lag but dont know how to get rid of it. any ideas???
thanx
de ja vu?
can anyone tell me what a FMIC is and where is it located?any pics? i have alot of turbo lag but dont know how to get rid of it. any ideas???
thanx
Front Mounted InterCooler. An aftermarked brick of a cooler fitted to the front of the car to replace the stock wing mounted intercooler (WMIC).
As for removing lag, it depends on your set up. Is your car stock?
Judging by his sig, he's already got one :)
Judging by his sig, he's already got one :)
ah, got my sigs turned off - doh! :rolleyes:
Flippin eck..thats in there, isnt it? shoehorn and KY in your toolbox?
:D
Like that but i have a question, are your cooling panels home made and did you make a drawing of them? Cos i like them..:nod:
can anyone tell me what a FMIC is and where is it located?any pics? i have alot of turbo lag but dont know how to get rid of it. any ideas???
thanx
hey bro ur sig shows (if thats ur car,cant understand u having someone elses car in ur sig:confused: ) that ur car has one the big stupid blue pipes sorta give it away my friend ....of course unless some bandits jumpered on your computer and invaded ..tryin to be funny :nod: :ghey:
Dutch Jackal
08-10-2006, 11:00
@ex-ctr: did you remove your aircon? or is the aircon radiator still in front of your FMIC?
http://premium1.uploadit.org/nollett123//DSC00596.JPG
@ex-ctr: did you remove your aircon? or is the aircon radiator still in front of your FMIC?
the rad was shot so dumped it, left a gap between the fmic and water rad just in case i reinstall it
I'm looking at mine now and thinking that i could probably get it right next to the rad (behind the two uprights that the headlights bolt into). Don't know if I'll go as far as moving the rad back too.
driftingking
09-10-2006, 07:42
yes dat is my car did know you call it fmic aswel lol
so if you turn the fmic upside down then do you have less lag?
wow i didnt know that. thanx
It's certainly a factor. The size of your turbo will affect lag too. A big turbo may produce more boost, but will take longer to spool up, hence the benefits of twin turbo.
I'm now officially out of my depth:rolleyes: , so I'll shut up till someone wiser provides some input :D
doninphi
09-10-2006, 08:08
Why dont they make all the kits so it is upside down then!??!? I'm sure alot of people will find this really interesting, seems alot of effort to move it closer, but turning it upside down maybe a good idea for alot of people....
If it works, and works well, you should do a how-to thread, never know, it may get added to useful threads....:sxoc:
200krisx
09-10-2006, 08:29
Hi mate,
Have you got any pics please. I'm going to be installing my FMIC shortly but I might do it this way. Also, who made your pipe work? Does it still come through the battery tray?
Cheers,
Kris :)
Why dont they make all the kits so it is upside down then!??!? I'm sure alot of people will find this really interesting, seems alot of effort to move it closer, but turning it upside down maybe a good idea for alot of people....
If it works, and works well, you should do a how-to thread, never know, it may get added to useful threads....:sxoc:
There's alot more cutting involved. The benefits of an upside down FMIC over a right way up one are smaller compared to the benefits of a FMIC over a WMIC.
Not sure about moving it too close to the rad, as it may pic up heat soak from the rad.
ex-ctr - i take it your charge temperatures are still hunky dory?
ideally i'd like to move it up too, and lose more pipework, but the lights are in the way, hence the need to move it back (which would lose yet more pipework), but then it's very close to the rad. Besides which I'd then have to move my oil cooler, and i can't be arsed!
Hi mate,
Have you got any pics please. I'm going to be installing my FMIC shortly but I might do it this way. Also, who made your pipe work? Does it still come through the battery tray?
Cheers,
Kris :)
I'll put some up soon, but there's not much to it. You'd still need to move the battery (mine's in the boot), and you cut out the right angle made where the battery tray meets the panel behind the headlight. Similarly, the same cutting needs to be done behind the other headlight.
RE the pipe work. I just cut the vertical(ish) piece out of the pipe on each side and joined them with really thick plumbig joins. Having no lip on the cut pipes I was worried about them blowing off. I drew a line aroud the join in permanent marker on all the joins and went for a blast. The original ones HAD moved a bit, but my new joins haven't shifted even after several heavy drives.
My holes are excessively large :wack: as i wasn't sure where all my pipe work would end up. being. Reckon if I did it again it could be much neater. But if you've seen my car, you know i don't do "neat". Just hack it out and slap some hammerite on it :smash: :smash: :smash: :D
the rad was shot so dumped it, left a gap between the fmic and water rad just in case i reinstall itSo you would relocate A/C rad from where it was about 10cm towards the engine?
Just been to the weighbridge and weighed my S14, in total and per axle.
Any guesses how much?
full tank? half tank? empty tank?
I'll go for 1200 with half tank +-15kg for full/empty
660 front axle and 540 rear
sideways14a
10-10-2006, 09:44
1300kgs with half a tank of juice and 15kilos of sweetie papers and old apple cores under the seats.
Actual_Ben_Taylor
10-10-2006, 09:45
1280 with half a tank of fuel
cardiff scum
10-10-2006, 09:53
Whats 16 stone in kg?;)
1300kgs with half a tank of juice and 15kilos of sweetie papers and old apple cores under the seats.
Ha ha... that'll be the Volvo with the landfill site in the passenger footwell :wack: My S14 has very little in it, rubbish or other wise.
A clue - 1/4 tank of fuel, I wasn't in the car and I'm 80kg over my target weight...:nod:
Whats 16 stone in kg?;)
too many ;)
japdrifter
10-10-2006, 10:08
Whats 16 stone in kg?;)
101kg's
200krisx
10-10-2006, 10:24
1178kgs :wack: I'm just posting a random number :p
1080kgs
620 Front, 460 Rear, so a weight distribution of ~ 57.5:42.5
Maybe need to loose some at the front, but without taking out the windscreen or the bonnet, there's not much left! :wack:
What's the weight distribution as standard, and should I be aiming for 50:50?
Thats impressive, I knew you had done some extreme stripping but :eek:
You got a carbon/FRP bonnet yet? That and carbon doors might see 1000kg :D
think its 53:47 as standard, and 50:50 is as good as anything to aim for :nod:
John Bennett
10-10-2006, 10:42
:eek: That's a bit less than you'd expect. Have you stripped bits out?
sideways14a
10-10-2006, 10:44
Hell thats bloody lean, what have you removed?
Thats impressive, I knew you had done some extreme stripping but :eek:
You got a carbon/FRP bonnet yet? That and carbon doors might see 1000kg :D
think its 53:47 as standard, and 50:50 is as good as anything to aim for :nod:
Not convinced with the whole carbon bonnet thing. I don't think many of the aftermarket ones are significantly lighter than my bonnet (which is just a single steel skin with no skeleton - same for the boot too). Would be interested to know how much a carbon bonnet weighs. I don't think the fibre galss ones offer any real advantage. If I went down the route of a grp bonnet, I'd probably make one.
As for the doors - that's already in the pipe line. I have made up a template that I'm making frames for the door windows so I can polycarb the windows and ditch the inner door skin, glass windows, motors etc. Will probably leave the SIP bars in place in the absence of a roll cage though!:eek:
:eek: That's a bit less than you'd expect. Have you stripped bits out?
lol, slowly and surely over the last couple of years...
Dash went, much dremeling, but I didnt reckon JN would have lost that much - still with glass windows and metal boot/bonnet :eek:
JN - TTIUWOP :nod:
Hell thats bloody lean, what have you removed?
Ummm....
Bonnet and Boot are just skins.
Boot hinges.
Rear light cluster off boot (reverse light now where the "fake" fog light used to be)
Catch mechanism on bonnet
Rear windscreen is plastic, as are the two rear windows.
Aircon.
Tried it with no PAS - what a nightmare! Put it straight back!
All sorts of brackets, heat shields and redundant bits from under the bonnet.
Heat shields under car.
Dash / heater / matrix / blowers etc
Obviously all the trim, centre console, carpets, rear seats, parcel shelf, speakers.
Spare wheel (just a can of tire weld...)
Diff cooler.
Now have v small battery in boot.
All the seat belts (have 2 X 4 point harnesses now).
Airbags.
Enough pipe work to go to the moon and back.
Carbon canister.
The battery tray.
Stock rear towing point (replaced with something lighter).
Wing mirrors (believe me, they are heavy!), replaced with motorcycle units.
And anything that doesn't make the car go or hold it together.... (like the metal unit that the front bumper fits onto, the centre upright that the bonnet catch used to mount onto (meant getting the oil cooler in there was easy peasy!).
Probably more stuff too, but I forget. Basically if it comes off, and it doesn't need to go back, it doesn't.:whip:
Trouble is, things like roll cages and braces just put the weight back in :cry:. Getting it to a ton (and keeping it there) would be nice though, even if just for the maths (BHP/Ton)
JN - TTIUWOP :nod:
?? :confused: ??
That's a very long acronym you have there sir....
Have you got any pictures of your car?
Have you got any pictures of your car?
Inside or out?
Jesus Ninja - why dont you strip the paint off and drive it in your pants?? :notworthy ;)
Jesus Ninja - why dont you strip the paint off and drive it in your pants?? :notworthy ;)
what makes you think i don't drive in my pants... :wack: :D :sxoc:
Have you got any pictures of your car?
here's some:
Have you got any pictures of your car?
and a few more:
:eek: that's proper light!
How about wheels next (if you are running the standards that are in your pics)? could save a small amount there as well :) and as unsprung weight it'll be worth even more :nod:
R32GTR wheels are significantly lighter than the standards, and some BBS splits or the like could knock off even more?
How about wheels next?
Wheels = ££ KERCHING ££ :eek:
where as cutting discs for an angle grinder are relatively cheap:wack:
I've got a set of 18" RX8 wheels (but need to shell out for some boots). Not sure they're actually any lighter (prob heavier). The mega big spacers are on there already, hence she stands like john wayne!
LOL - I wonder just how many people drive round with a can of tyre-weld instead of a spare tyre... and NO FOOT PUMP ???!!!
I know I do :annoyed: :wack:
Those seats look heavy... can you not sit on egg boxes
sideways14a
10-10-2006, 11:43
LOL - I wonder just how many people drive round with a can of tyre-weld instead of a spare tyre... and NO FOOT PUMP ???!!!
I know I do :annoyed: :wack:
Good point, err so do I:(
Good point, err so do I:(
I always carry a special tool with me. It's yellow and it's very light. :nod: It's my AA card :thumbs:
Those seats look heavy... can you not sit on egg boxes
he he - the OMP driver's seat is only 8 kgs, trouble is it's currently mounted on a stock subframe which is dead heavy. Sometime's other people want to drive it, so I thought I should leave it reasonably adjustable, or else I would have bolted it to the floor. Once I get hold of another light seat for the passenger side, I'll bolt that one directly to the floor.
Lower the fire extinguisher, get the CoG lower - bolt it to the floor, its sat way high and must be 5Kg.
Accronym was "this thread is useless with out pics"
sideways14a
10-10-2006, 11:53
Lower the fire extinguisher, get the CoG lower - bolt it to the floor, its sat way high and must be 5Kg.
Accronym was "this thread is useless with out pics"
I was just going to mention this, after all lowering the rear seats makes such a difference to performace, you should chop out 3 feet from the wheelbase as well and it will be epic:thumbs:
get the CoG lower[QUOTE]
Hmmm, maybe i could remove the top half of the car, put a small windscreen in the footwell and drive lying down controlling the pedals with my hands.... A mod too far, me thinks. :D
[QUOTE=SM]Accronym was "this thread is useless with out pics"
Ah... I am much enlightened (geddit...) :rolleyes:
Yeah, thats too far, you end up with an undriveable handful like norris did :wack:
but do move that extinguisher to floor level. :nod:
ShawJohn
10-10-2006, 11:58
IIRC mine weighed 1315kg with a half tank and a load of junk in the boot at my local weigh bridge...
Never thought of weighing front and back seperately :wack:
...next time I pass :thumbs:
I was just going to mention this, after all lowering the rear seats makes such a difference to performace, you should chop out 3 feet from the wheelbase as well and it will be epic:thumbs:
Whilst I ecxel at randomly hacking pieces off my car, welding them back together is a skill I am yet to master!
Oddly enough though, one long term plan i've toyed with is to get hold of a classic Datsun Fairlady, adjust the wheel base of the SX to fit, strip all the panels off and build the Datsun around it. Someone on here is doing a similar thing with a morris minor and S13.
All in good time though.....
you end up with an undriveable handful like norris did :wack:
What did Norris do?
Shorten the body and lower the roof on his new evo, and screwed the handling (although he claims its just too much rear brake bais).
You are truly mad! :eek:
MUHAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAA!!!!:smash: :smash: :smash: :smash:
AND NEXT I PLAN TO TAKE OVER COLCHESTER AND MAKE YOU ALL MY SLAVES!:whip: :whip: :whip: :whip:
fair play, thats some crazy stripping :)
You are truly mad! :eek:
Mad for which bit? Or just the whole thing? That's your old door and harness in the pic you know.
fair play, thats some crazy stripping :)
yeah baby, you should see my dancing round a pole :eek: :rolleyes:
Wheels = ££ KERCHING ££ :eek:
where as cutting discs for an angle grinder are relatively cheap:wack:
I've got a set of 18" RX8 wheels (but need to shell out for some boots). Not sure they're actually any lighter (prob heavier). The mega big spacers are on there already, hence she stands like john wayne!
lol!
Nah, i picked up my R32's for not much moolah :)
My other half's 15" BBS's on her Eunos weigh about half as much again! do it!
Willing to bet the RX8's weigh a fair bit more :nod: 32's are forged and pretty flighty :)
- what about shorten the exhaust to make it come out just behind the front tire? that way you would save all the weight of the exhaust :)
- get a alloy small size race tank, instead of that big one under the car.
- remove henges of the hood so it's fully removeble?
Should get under 1000kg ... with a few additinals tweaks
But nice weight drop:)
- what about shorten the exhaust to make it come out just behind the front tire? that way you would save all the weight of the exhaust :)
Been thinking about it. Not sure the floor pan will take it and allow clearance underneath. Also, the only side that would make sense is the passenger side. I'd be scared of setting pedestrians on fire....
Mad as in you have NO DASH!!!
I dont think it will pass an MOT with all that sharp metal in front of you/the passenger.
Mad as in you have NO DASH!!!
I dont think it will pass an MOT with all that sharp metal in front of you/the passenger.
already passed :thumbs:
Diff cooler.
That sounds familia.....
That sounds familia.....
how d'ya mean?
SM did that same thing to save wieght and tried to perswade me to do the same when I replaced all my rear suspension. I dint and he did remove it and cooked his diff at Olton :smash:
SM did that same thing to save wieght and tried to perswade me to do the same when I replaced all my rear suspension. I dint and he did remove it and cooked his diff at Olton :smash:
:eek:
sideways14a
10-10-2006, 12:43
Whilst I ecxel at randomly hacking pieces off my car, welding them back together is a skill I am yet to master!
Sorry but i only mentioned it because this chap managed it fine, so i am disapointed that you cannot make it happen
http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=217289&highlight=corsa+rear+seats
:wack: :D
Thought about filling the tyres with Helium? :wack: It is looking...... erm..... light :eek:
Sorry but i only mentioned it because this chap managed it fine, so i am disapointed that you cannot make it happen
http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=217289&highlight=corsa+rear+seats
:wack: :D
he he he! :D Genius! I'll do my best... perhaps I should just roll the whole car flat and sit on it like a magic carpet! :D
I found the ignition lock barrell to be heavy, Remove it,
You know you want to!
damson devil
10-10-2006, 13:57
what power you running... i.e whats your power to weight now.??
i will go weigh mine and work mine out i think..
edit: oh and how does your bonnet fair up with only the skin.. can i see some pics of the under side please..
what power you running... i.e whats your power to weight now.??
i will go weigh mine and work mine out i think..
edit: oh and how does your bonnet fair up with only the skin.. can i see some pics of the under side please..
no idea. I ought to find out really. Reckon it's somewhere around 270ish.
FMIC (upside down...)
T28 Roller
Metal gasket, gas flowed / ported head and manifolds
Bren device
3" down pipe, cat bypass, 2.5" straight through cat back (really ought to get that changed for a 3")
Apexi Cone
Walbro
IK24s
I'm fairly confident that I'm seeing 250 per ton. Scares the willies out of me, anyway! :D But a rolling road will tell me.:nod:
As for the bonnet - will try and get some pics up, but I've gone away for the week now. It's a bit flimsy when it's up, but fine when it's down. It still has the bits down each side, so it has some rigidity, and the piece along the back and the hinges.
Duane200sxs14
10-10-2006, 14:38
I'm sorry to say this but what a sack of shit!!!!!!!
Whats with the chavvy airvent and viper stripes!!! :wack:
Duane.
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=38435&d=1160480008
There's a fair few brackets etc hee that could be cut out, and as previosuly mentioned make being a passenger safer :nod:
Also, there is a chap here selling some R32 GTR wheels for £10 each :eek: I was gonna have them, but my needs to drastically changed, so I no longer have project to put them on.
And they are the proper GTR ones, ET30 8j x 16, not the usual GTS-T ones.
Also, if it were mine, I'd lower the air vent to be slightly more subtle (and lighter :wack: ) and ditch the viper stripes
I'm sorry to say this but what a sack of shit!!!!!!!
Whats with the chavvy airvent and viper stripes!!! :wack:
Duane.
Sack of sh!t it may be, but it's a quick sack. Not much of a buffer really. Never been one for Autoglym. It's just a track toy. The vent used to be smaller, but was still getting heat soak, so knocked up somethin bigger. Maybe a bit too bit, to be honest. The other two vents took care of cooling allowing the big electric fan to blow straight out.
The stripes, well I use the car as advertising for a motorsport charity I'm invoved with, and the stripes make it stand out. I do a kids camp with it too, and the kids like that kind of thing.
damson devil
10-10-2006, 14:49
Sack of sh!t it may be, but it's a quick sack.
reminds me of 1st form and sportsday..
my sack is faster than yours..
There's a fair few brackets etc hee that could be cut out, and as previosuly mentioned make being a passenger safer :nod:
I'd have to agree. It's only just had a second seat put back in it. To be fair though, if your head made it that far, your in trouble cos the harness would have broken :wack:
reminds me of 1st form and sportsday..
my sack is faster than yours..
heh heh :D
scimmy ben
10-10-2006, 15:04
How about moving the rad to the boot?
It may not reduce the overall weight but the balance should be better AND you get to cut the boot floor and back panel out :D Have a look at CNHSS1s Reliant for inspiration
I'd have to agree. It's only just had a second seat put back in it. To be fair though, if your head made it that far, your in trouble cos the harness would have broken :wack:
An unusual, but valid logic :wack: :thumbs:
How about moving the rad to the boot?
It may not reduce the overall weight but the balance should be better AND you get to cut the boot floor and back panel out :D Have a look at CNHSS1s Reliant for inspiration
That's proper mad scientist stuff :eek: . Would be alot of hose involved. Besides, with a rad in the boot where would i put my hamper and picnic rug?
scimmy ben
10-10-2006, 15:22
That's proper mad scientist stuff :eek: . Would be alot of hose involved. Besides, with a rad in the boot where would i put my hamper and picnic rug?
Probably best using pipe rather than hose due to the length :wack:
As for the hamper, you need a roof rack or - one of the TVR guys has a natty little trailer and detachable tow hook for his spare wheels :nod:
sideways14a
10-10-2006, 15:38
Still think it would be faster with a shortened wheelbase, quarters in 9 seconds and all that:confused:
Still think it would be faster with a shortened wheelbase, quarters in 9 seconds and all that:confused:
you reckon? ;) :p Maybe if I put HUGE cartwheels on it, it'd have to turn the wheels less to get there.:thumbs:
I assume you've removed the bitumen sound proofing?
Good effort though - I'm looking forward to seeing what mine weighs once I've got it back on the road :D
You are truly mad! :eek:
Exactley what i was thinking, well done mate :D
the rads in the boot of my car for a few reasons. In no partcular order:-
to allow room for larger intercooler, unimpeded cold air that isnt slowed and /or warmed by front water rad
weight distribution is improved. Bearing in mind my car weighs less than 750kg, the weight of a rad and its water makes a difference
theres a few things to think about tho, the main one being airflow and its management. Last season i had overheating on faster circuits, so during last winter i was ready to fit a bigger, larger capacity rad, but after a chat with Stew B:notworthy he suggested that it was probably getting the air to go through the core and not around it. The scoop under the floor was sealed with foam rubber around the rad itself, ensuring any air that was picked up by the scoop wnet through the core and not around it. I proved it by using a wind speed meter and found that the air speed increased with road speed until about 70mph road speed, when it dropped dramatically, due either to stall or the airflow finding an easier route than thru the core. Job done, same size rad, same water capapcity, no overheating.
For pipework use either alloy or cooper tubes running under the floor connected with rubber/silicone hose where necessary. The hard pipe is more reliable, easy enough to bend, and does actually add to the cooling effect as a few metres of tube in the undercar airflow draws heat outta the water too.
Spend time on the details such as sealing the rad and ducting, it'll make a huge difference and keep the weight low. I use a Golf TDi rad as its plastic caps and ally core so very light.
I assume you've removed the bitumen sound proofing?
oh yeah, forgot to mention that. I filled two black bags and struggled to lift it all in one go!
the rads in the boot of my car for a few reasons......
great write up. I can only agree with you RE airflow and sealing things. when racing the renault 5, Mark Fish :notworthy: was insistent on sealing everything so the air had no choice where to go but through the rad.
Similarly, there's folk with some huge intercoolers, but nothing to channel the air in. Becauase of the resistence offered by a cooler it is actually better, I have read, for the "funnel" to be smaller at it's opening than the surface area of the cooler. Stops the air packing up in a cushion and flowing out of the trapment area.
CNHSS1 - how is your rad positioned in the rear? Where is the scoop located and where does the airflow exit? did you have any bleeding or airlock problems?
Our MR2 has the rad in the front and the engine in the rear, so I suppose this isn't too different.
damson devil
10-10-2006, 18:48
oh yeah, forgot to mention that. I filled two black bags and struggled to lift it all in one go!
is there an easy way to do this??
is there an easy way to do this??
do it on a cold day so that the stuff is more brittle and sticks less. I used a hammer and a wide bladed wood chisel. The residue that's left comes off with engine degreaser and wire wool.
Of course, you'll get loads more road noise. :smash: :D
scimmy ben
10-10-2006, 20:46
CNHSS1 - how is your rad positioned in the rear? Where is the scoop located and where does the airflow exit? did you have any bleeding or airlock problems?
Turn sigs on or have a look at Craig's profile, the two black patches on the boot are sodding great holes :D for the exit.
Scoop underneath - a bit diffuser-ish, I'm sure there will be some pics soon.
few pics that may help:thumbs:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a274/CNHSS1/DSCN4559.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a274/CNHSS1/01010021.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a274/CNHSS1/01010034.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a274/CNHSS1/01010022.jpg
bleeding the system is a slow task, but not rocket science (luckily for me!), would be a good idea to have a filler neck near the top of the rear rad but with non pressurised cap, just to aid filling (on the list of my winter mods).
The scoop is ally and sits below the rad behind the diff. I was worried about the scoop catching the ground and ripping it off, so i have a 6" deep section of sparco mudflap material bolted to the leading edge of the scoop on two guy ropes so that it catches the ground and flexes rather than the solid ally part. Works well and cheap too. The rad is then boxed in on the exhaust side with fibreglass and exits thru carefully designed apertures in boot lid and rear panel that were painstakingly thought out (OK Ben, it was 30 seconds with a marker pen before i attacked the panels with the angle grinder!:wack: ).
Also additional trunking from vents in rear wings that feed into lower alloy scoop box
I've read about people using dry ice to freeze the sound deadening before using a chisel to remove it :smash:
Also read about the "funnel effect" being used to duct air into a FMIC/rad in Graham Bell's Forced Induction Tuning book :Plug:
The dry ice thing works fantastically - the only trouble is finding somewhere to supply dry ice. There are companies out there that do dry ice 'cleaning' - they fire pellets of dry ice (similar to sandblasting) which evaporate on impact. The expanding gas lifts the dirt (or bitumen, in this case) off the surface. Apparently works extremely well, but it's not particularly cheap.
Not tempted by a much smaller and lighter Stack instrument display? More £££ I know but that, plus removing unused dials and potentially some of the wiring for those dials too would shave some extra weight.
Window glass is mega heavy, replace with lexan (polycarbonate) not perspex (coz its crap), and it makes a big difference, and its high up on the car so keeps C of G lower too.
The dry ice thing works fantastically - the only trouble is finding somewhere to supply dry ice. There are companies out there that do dry ice 'cleaning' - they fire pellets of dry ice (similar to sandblasting) which evaporate on impact. The expanding gas lifts the dirt (or bitumen, in this case) off the surface. Apparently works extremely well, but it's not particularly cheap.
Matt_S used plumber's freeze spray :nod:
I wondered about that, but I could only find pissy little tins of it and they weren't cheap so I didn't bother :(
Window glass is mega heavy, replace with lexan (polycarbonate) not perspex (coz its crap), and it makes a big difference, and its high up on the car so keeps C of G lower too.
rear windscreen and rear side windows already done. :nod: working on doors and door windows - interesting on account of frameless doors, so am fabricating aluminium frames. Then the doors can be stripped to a skin, removing glass, motors etc. :thumbs:
I wondered about that, but I could only find pissy little tins of it and they weren't cheap so I didn't bother :(
To be honest, mine wasn't a problem at all. Just wait for a cold day to do it and get your chisel as flat as possible and it should come off in big flat pieces. Degreaser and iron-wool / pan-scrub sorts the rest :)
My poly door windows arrived this week - they should be good in frameless doors I would think... There's no problem with glass after all :wack:
Are the glass rear side windows heavy? I was under the impression that they're mega light and not really worth swapping?
Not tempted by a much smaller and lighter Stack instrument display? More £££ I know but that, plus removing unused dials and potentially some of the wiring for those dials too would shave some extra weight.
Yes :nod: . The stock display is only there cos I need to locate a replacement fuel level gauge and speedo. Then I'll build a unit with all the gauges in, instead of the flappy piece of ally chequer plate strapped to the old clocks :wack:
My poly door windows arrived this week - they should be good in frameless doors I would think... There's no problem with glass after all :wack:
Are the glass rear side windows heavy? I was under the impression that they're mega light and not really worth swapping?
They weren't massively heavy, but then you could argue that about alot of the things that came off. It all adds up though. To be honest, I broke a window taking it out to see, so i was kinda stuck then :rolleyes:
My poly door windows arrived this week - they should be good in frameless doors I would think... There's no problem with glass after all :wack:
Are the glass rear side windows heavy? I was under the impression that they're mega light and not really worth swapping?
What do you use your S14 for, Kiruji? Where were your poly windows from?
Mine's an Sil80 dude and it's a drift slag :)
http://www.dvdlard.net/kiruji/sideways.jpg
Windows were from Apex - he does S14 as well I think. They're a mix of perspex and polycarbonate or something.
Have a look at the pics of my doors, they weigh 20% of the std ones and the std ones are probably 1/3rd weight of nissan ones. Crash protection is somewhat compromised tho:wack: remove the whole inner skin, ally C section to hold lexan windows in place. Not concours, but could lose 20-25kg from your car in one go.
That's exactly what I'm planning on doing - then a roll cage to follow soon after :D
Mine's an Sil80 dude and it's a drift slag :)
http://www.dvdlard.net/kiruji/sideways.jpg
Windows were from Apex - he does S14 as well I think. They're a mix of perspex and polycarbonate or something.
Doh... I don't have sigs on (mobile access you see :rolleyes:)
Always been into grip, but maybe I should do I a drift day.....
That's exactly what I'm planning on doing - then a roll cage to follow soon after :D
Aye - exactly my plan too! :D :thumbs:
Nismo_Freak
11-10-2006, 23:45
My all steel body S13 is 2455 lbs. currently with 1/4 tank. I still have full interior minus the glovebox and radio.
My S14 was a bit light... but my S13 will be lighter :)
http://nismo.q45.org/interior.jpg
http://nismo.q45.org/gotweight.jpg
:thumbs: That's light too, 1113kgs. I reckon there's more you could lose as well.
Isn't the S13 a generally ligher vehicle anyway? You should easily get under a ton :thumbs:
Impressed with how much weight you've lost :thumbs:
Noticed from one of the earlier comments that the weight distribution has been made even worse than standard tho, and its a pretty nose heavy car as standard, i'd aim to get that sorted if using for track work :nod:
Get some Reverie carbon bits for your car. Their seats are only 1.5 kgs (saving of 6.5 kg on your car) . Their steering wheel is 500 grams, and their gear knob is only 100 grams or something :wack:
Also a carbon bonnet the same thickness as your current bonnet (which i know you've worked on) WILL be lighter as well due to being less dense.
Get a full carbon front end (wings, bonnet, bumper) and that will save you a good few kilos as well. Carbon doors have already mentioned, and you might as well go for the carbon rear bumper and bootlid.
Aluminium 300ZX brake calipers are lighter than the stock s14 ones. Not sure what the weight difference between the stock calipers and AP Racing/Brembo ones are, but i'm sure their is a difference. Also big brake kits that have aluminium bells will be lighter than cast iron ones.
I think thats probably more tips for you? :)
he he, cool. carbon is big dollars still (even though it's not spaceship technoloy anymore), so wil have to watch those penies!
My old man is a genius with fibreglass, especialy multi-part moulds and reinforcing grp by adding ally bracing during the build process, and i'm pretty handy with woodwork, so watch this space. I may start knocking out wings and bonnets... :D
brakes are already 310mm rotors with ally bells. reckon that with lighter car I don't need to run any bigger calipers, but would def consider ZX ally calipers. Have heard that they're more prone to seizing though.
If you want a Sil80 to test fit some grp bits dude, I'm ready and willing to travel ;)
jrtuning
12-10-2006, 22:53
[QUOTE=Jesus-Ninja]and i'm pretty handy with woodwork, so watch this space. I may start knocking out wings and bonnets... :DQUOTE]
would these be wooden wings and bonnets :confused: :p
very impressed by the annorexicness of your car and am a firm beleiver in making a car lighter :nod: :thumbs:
Nismo_Freak
13-10-2006, 00:26
:thumbs: That's light too, 1113kgs. I reckon there's more you could lose as well.
Isn't the S13 a generally ligher vehicle anyway? You should easily get under a ton :thumbs:
Yep, I will be stripping the car out and re-weighing it in a month or so. I'll post results for you.
Colin Chapman, founder of Lotus, when asked what he did to make his cars so good he replied that he "added lightness".:thumbs:
Wow - thats an awesome weight! I completeley did not expect you to say that!!!
Gotta send the R32 on a diet methinks :D Lil fatty :o Nice to have something to grab a hold of though? :wack:
Butuz
would these be wooden wings and bonnets :confused: :p
very impressed by the annorexicness of your car and am a firm beleiver in making a car lighter :nod: :thumbs:
Wooden bonnet? LOL :D no, but you gotta make the master for the GRP out of something!
If you want a Sil80 to test fit some grp bits dude, I'm ready and willing to travel ;)
Been thinking about it for a while :nod: Just need to outlay for the kit, with some of that money I don't have, acquire the skills and be prepared to cock the first one up :wack:
You wouldn't believe it, but I do look forward to the day when my car looks a little more attractive. But so much of it has been "hack a bit of here, hack a bit off there", especially with airflow, cooling and venting, that there seemed little point putting all the effort into making it look pretty until is was "right". It's all been experimentation and prototyping (you wouldn't belive how many rear windscreens I've had! And this one STILL isn't right... next time :D)
Serously looking into this "radiator in the boot" escapade though:
It would move the weight to the rear.
I could then choose what radiator to use - i a big stock rad off something rather than an after market "bigger" 200sx rad
It frees up space to move the FMIC (which is already "upside down" with pipes at the top) much closer to the block, massively reducing pipework and lag
The owner of Turbo Technics, Geoff Kershaw, runs a twin turbo sierra XR4x4 (with 650brake!!) with the rad fitted face down and flat in the boot floor. Theres a NACA duct scoop under the car and a large hole and exit duct in the rear panel between the taillights. I would have thought that for a road car a pair of twin fans to pull air thru the rad when the car is slow or stationery would work well and a sealed exit duct so taht the hole in the rear of teh car will draw air thru the rad as well as air being scooped up from under the car. The air must have an efficient flow thru the core and out. The funnel effect someone mentioned is ideal for this situation, wide mouth entry of teh scoop narrowing to the size of rad core (and sealed around it) and then the exit funnel should get progressively wider from the rad core to the exit point in the rear panel. Try and get the exit in the rear of the car and not the top of the bootlid, or the airflow over the roof will stall the hot air trying to escape the rad exit funnel duct thingy:thumbs:
That sounds like it would work in a S14's boot, with the internal exit ducting being fibreglass and the underfloor duct being aluminium. 2 * 9 foot on 25mm copper piping front to back might not be the best for weight saving, but weight distrubution would be better :nod:
scimmy ben
13-10-2006, 10:51
i'm pretty handy with woodwork, so watch this space. I may start knocking out wings and bonnets... :D
Another Carpenter called Jesus...
scimmy ben
13-10-2006, 10:53
2 * 9 foot on 25mm copper piping front to back might not be the best for weight saving, but weight distrubution would be better :nod:
22 or 28mm is easier to find. 25mm plastic is easy to find but you won't lose as much heat along the length so would need a bigger rad and hence more water.
I use 28mm ally tube, but to be honest for the wall thickness copper is a similar weight and easier to find and buy bends for etc. easy to solder joints as well. Id thought of changing to plastic pipe actually as its nice and tough, but im sure the air rushing under the car at speed must help to drawer heat out of the metal tubes better.
The owner of Turbo Technics, Geoff Kershaw, runs a twin turbo sierra XR4x4 (with 650brake!!) with the rad fitted face down and flat in the boot floor. Theres a NACA duct scoop under the car and a large hole and exit duct in the rear panel between the taillights. I would have thought that for a road car a pair of twin fans to pull air thru the rad when the car is slow or stationery would work well and a sealed exit duct so taht the hole in the rear of teh car will draw air thru the rad as well as air being scooped up from under the car. The air must have an efficient flow thru the core and out. The funnel effect someone mentioned is ideal for this situation, wide mouth entry of teh scoop narrowing to the size of rad core (and sealed around it) and then the exit funnel should get progressively wider from the rad core to the exit point in the rear panel. Try and get the exit in the rear of the car and not the top of the bootlid, or the airflow over the roof will stall the hot air trying to escape the rad exit funnel duct thingy:thumbs:
I just cut my hole.... :D
Another Carpenter called Jesus...
if Jesus had joined us on earth this century, i like to think he would have been a welder :)
I use 28mm ally tube, but to be honest for the wall thickness copper is a similar weight and easier to find and buy bends for etc. easy to solder joints as well. Id thought of changing to plastic pipe actually as its nice and tough, but im sure the air rushing under the car at speed must help to drawer heat out of the metal tubes better.
I'm thinking plastic. I feel a trip to B&Q coming on.
Any thoughs on what Rad to use. I could use the existing one, but given that I have the choice, I'm thinking of diving to the scappers to picksome thing up.... But what?
wont matter will it, find something with a HUGE core, aluminium for low weight and decent overall size/thickness to fill your space. Maybe something from a 3.5T truck ?
You can take your pick here:
http://search.ebay.co.uk/search/search.dll?sofocus=bs&sbrftog=1&catref=C12&from=R10&satitle=radiator+new&sacat=9800%26catref%3DC6&sargn=-1%26saslc%3D3&sadis=200&fpos=PE15+0XL&ftrt=1&ftrv=1&saprclo=&saprchi=&fsop=1%26fsoo%3D1
wont matter will it, find something with a HUGE core, aluminium for low weight and decent overall size/thickness to fill your space. Maybe something from a 3.5T truck ?
I did see something from a 7l lorry. bit excessive maybe...
Actual_Ben_Taylor
13-10-2006, 14:25
Going to add a fair bit of weight with all that extra water...
Going to add a fair bit of weight with all that extra water...
2.8cm pipe - radius of 1.4cm - cross section of 6.15cm^2
call it 2m inlet and out let, so 4m all together (i think this is a bit more that in reality) - that's 400cm
400 X 6.15 = 2462cm^3, just under 2.5l >> less than 2.5 KGs. I can live with that for the trade off of balance and less IC pipework.
Besides, it's a bonkers thing to do, so it's right up my street...... :wack: :D
Thats light but my God what a fcuking ugly car! Surely taking those awful viper stripes and vents off will save you some weight [and dignity].
You can take your pick here:
http://search.ebay.co.uk/search/search.dll?sofocus=bs&sbrftog=1&catref=C12&from=R10&satitle=radiator+new&sacat=9800%26catref%3DC6&sargn=-1%26saslc%3D3&sadis=200&fpos=PE15+0XL&ftrt=1&ftrv=1&saprclo=&saprchi=&fsop=1%26fsoo%3D1
Well, I am now the proud owner of a new radiator from a 2.2l Mazda 626. All for the pricely sum of £16 delivered.:thumbs:
lol, picture? or dimensions?
EDIT
Besides, it's a bonkers thing to do, so it's right up my street...... :wack: :D
:wack:
just spotted and yeah - lol
lol, picture? or dimensions?
EDIT
:wack:
just spotted and yeah - lol
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=010&item=200033685881&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1
400 x 648, which is marginally larger than the SX rad. Looks thicker, too, but can't really tell.
My SX rad is so skinny. Am I right in saying that there are two types of rad fitted to the S14. Some older ones had a skinny rad, and others had a fat rad?
not an age thing fat Vs thin - but yes there are 2 types.
what defined which got the thicker cores? Or is it just random? Are the thicker cores as thick as the tank ends?
Random AFAIK, just like which cars get boost limited 1st and some 1st and second, and some none :wack:
Both have the same end tanks, just different cores.
Random AFAIK, just like which cars get boost limited 1st and some 1st and second, and some none :wack:
Both have the same end tanks, just different cores.
yeah, but given that they both have the same end tanks, the ones with the thicker cores, do they "fill" the end tank? ie mine doesn't - the core is much thinner than the end tank. So does the other "flavour" of rad have a core that is as thick as the end tank?
i think i confused myself now! :confused: :rolleyes:
nah, the thin ones take up about 1/3rd, the fat ones about 2/3rds and you can recore them with a copper core that fills the end tanks completly.
Thats light but my God what a fcuking ugly car! Surely taking those awful viper stripes and vents off will save you some weight [and dignity].
Okey dokey - thanks to everyone for your advice, both technical, innovative and aesthetic!
Made some changes as a result of the posts (see pics) - scary spike bits are gone, made a nice ally dash and moved the fire extinguisher to the deck.
Rad is on it's way and rear is vented for exit of airflow.
Not sure what to do about the appearance :wack:, but opinions noted! It's kinda grown into this ugly lump, but then everytime I think about doing something about it, I get stuck into something else. Stripes are painted rather than stuck on, so will prob wait till new bonnet time to change it, but may invert the air scoop, or blank it off and take air in through the bumper and up through where the old IC pipework use to run (now that IC is upside down).
That looks much better, noticed you moved the extinguisher ;)
Much neater, much tidier, much better :D
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=38604&d=1160924128
That looks much better, noticed you moved the extinguisher ;)
Much neater, much tidier, much better :D
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=38604&d=1160924128
I'm really pleased with the dash unit. You can't really see it that well, and in the flesh is far from "bling", but it's really tidy and doesn't wobble around!
Just got to work on the outside now.... :o :rolleyes:
ShawJohn
20-10-2006, 15:42
Well I've just been to see my scrap man...
Weights are as follows:
Front wheels: 720kg
Back wheels: 560kg
All 4 wheels: 1280kg
Why didn't I weigh left and right too, doh :wack:
And thats an empty car with an empty boot, only vapour in the tank, some odds and sods on the back seat, and a carPC.
So all we've got to do is remove about 90kg from the front and put it in the boot for 50:50 distibution :smash: ... Only 90kg, feck, thats about 13-14 stone :)
Probably what the dashboard, wings, bonnet, bumper and front wheels weigh.
Well I've just been to see my scrap man...
Weights are as follows:
Front wheels: 720kg
Back wheels: 560kg
All 4 wheels: 1280kg
Why didn't I weigh left and right too, doh :wack:
And thats an empty car with an empty boot, only vapour in the tank, some odds and sods on the back seat, and a carPC.
So all we've got to do is remove about 90kg from the front and put it in the boot for 50:50 distibution :smash: ... Only 90kg, feck, thats about 13-14 stone :)
Probably what the dashboard, wings, bonnet, bumper and front wheels weigh.
What does a washer jet bottle weigh when full? Couldn't that be moved to the boot? I stuck my battery in the boot, I'd quite like to move the water bottle back there too! :)
I've just bought a washer bag - it's loads smaller, will weigh less when full and can be fitted anywhere :nod:
It's designed for a kit car - got mine off eBay for about a tenner.
What does a washer jet bottle weigh when full? Couldn't that be moved to the boot? I stuck my battery in the boot, I'd quite like to move the water bottle back there too! :)
Yup - mine's in the boot :nod: I didn't use the stock washer bottle either. A tupperware cerial box works a treat :D :thumbs:
Yup - mine's in the boot :nod: I didn't use the stock washer bottle either. A tupperware cerial box works a treat :D :thumbs:
Pics please :D
Well I've just been to see my scrap man...
Weights are as follows:
Front wheels: 720kg
Back wheels: 560kg
All 4 wheels: 1280kg
Least it confirms the ~1280Kg expected stock weight :thumbs:
56/44 weight split isnt too bad.
Pics please :D
three in this thread... http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=218971&highlight=washer+bottle+boot
:thumbs:
although i've changed it slightly and done a much neater job with the pump and moved it so you can't see it. Battery has two straps aswell now :nod:
Nice! very similar battery set up to mine. I'll have to find the nearest tupperware party:D
No apologies for resurrecting this painfully long thread, here are some updates....
Paint job has been revised - courtesy of a halfrauds rattle can special. Thanks to those who pointed out that the car was probably not to everyone's taste, and in retrospect, not mine either! Vents are gone. Well, not gone, but tidied up and still functional.
After a reading some threads on here and a bit of research, a Jez-inspired "big :ghey: wing" and splitter have been added. Many thanks to www.800bhp.com for supplying quality parts :Plug:
The radiator is not in the boot... yet...
IMO, your big gay wing isn't big enough ;)
Like the splitter though :D
IMO, your big gay wing isn't big enough ;)
Well, I didn't want to be too :ghey:
;)
I think it's big enough... it should be in some clean-ish air...
maybe I should do a poll.... :wack:
jrtuning
03-01-2007, 12:10
definately loving the front splitter looks :nod: like a fair bit of effort went into it :thumbs:
the spolier isnt too my taste though but its there for a purpose :)
Aero mods look functional :thumbs:
Hi mate,
I really like that, the whole thing I mean, good effort. Probably one of the quickest cars on here, almost certainly per £!
Keep up the good work, perhaps see you out on track this year.
Cheers.:)
love the aero work:D the splitters ace, and im sure it'll work too.
maybe some bigger endplates on the rear wing for more downforce with no drag penalty might be worth an idea. The ends of the rear wing tend to run in cleaner air, albeit turbulated a bit by 'roll off' from the roof, but bigger end plates will 'straighten' it up again and make it even more effective.
Did you move your water rad to the boot yet?
That splitter looks great - but whats wrong with zip ties ;)
Good luck on the sub 1000kg mission - not sure how much my car weighs - prob around 1100kg
Still got a few things to do to my car to make it lighter, and I'm going to have to lose weight...
I got my wing from 800bhp.com too :)
Make sure you reinforce the mounting points so they're really solid - my wing has mashed my old boot. I ended up mounting the wing on the rear quaters with big ali brackets on the inside to stiffen it up. Its dead solid now - can push the car with the wing and it doesn't budge.
you should think yaself lucky Jez that ya cars made out of tin rather than plastic! I used to have a biggish gay wing on back of mine and on back straight at Aintree it lifted the leading edge of the bootlid up 6":eek: (bout 125+mph...)
i need to get a wing for my car but they look so chav:o
i need to get a wing for my car but they look so chav:o
What's chav about a big gay wing? :mad: :D
http://www.dvdlard.net/kiruji/low.jpg
i need to get a wing for my car but they look so chav:o
Yeah, I feel the same, needs must though ....
What's chav about a big gay wing? :mad: :D
Now I see why you said mine wasn't big enough....
...you chav....
;) :p :D :thumbs:
Did you move your water rad to the boot yet?
Nope... :smash: :whip:
All booked for NBR in June, and I have a) an "on-track" (ie hard driving) overheating problem, and b) a sever pull to the left under hard braking, so these two are on my list of things to do. I was hoping to cure the over heating and do the rad move / replacement all in one, but I reckon that as the rad I bought for the job will practically drop in where the old one was, thn I'll get the immediate problems solved before doing the boot thing. It will happen though, oh yes....
As for the pull to the left, I'm trying to source some ally calipers for the front, and I want to do the z32 rear conversion and remoce the ABS (which doesn't work). They're all jobs that will require bleeding, so I figured I'd do the lot at once, hence that job is priority.
That splitter looks great - but whats wrong with zip ties ;)
Good luck on the sub 1000kg mission - not sure how much my car weighs - prob around 1100kg
Yeah, It's frustrating to know that I'm putting weight back on.
I got my wing from 800bhp.com too :)
Make sure you reinforce the mounting points so they're really solid - my wing has mashed my old boot. I ended up mounting the wing on the rear quaters with big ali brackets on the inside to stiffen it up. Its dead solid now - can push the car with the wing and it doesn't budge.
My boot lid is just a skin, so i couldn't mount on that, so I followed your solution and mounted it on the rear quarters. Super stif, and I can still open my boot... ;)
I also made up some GRP feet to fill the difference between the flat undersides of the wing supports and the curved bosywork below, so they can be done up nice and tight. I hear teak is very good for this.......
I also made up some GRP feet to fill the difference between the flat undersides of the wing supports and the curved bosywork below, so they can be done up nice and tight. I hear teak is very good for this.......
Teak is by far the best solution - environmentally sound too ;) :D
Maybe I'm biased but I think the wing looks great .... :thumbs:
Maybe I'm biased but I think the wing looks great .... :thumbs:
would i get a members discount:sxoc:
Colin Gibson
04-01-2007, 20:44
Looks like a great bit of work:)
Im into a bit of weight reduction myself,
Id be very keen to see the results of the rad being moved to the rear (can it be done without overheating?)
are you going to use a bigger(Koyo type) rad?
the annoying thing about the 200 is the way that the weight distribution seems to get worse when you strip it out and tune the engine, with all the stuff up front and an empty chasm at the rear.
Looks like a great bit of work:)
Im into a bit of weight reduction myself,
Id be very keen to see the results of the rad being moved to the rear (can it be done without overheating?)
are you going to use a bigger(Koyo type) rad?
the annoying thing about the 200 is the way that the weight distribution seems to get worse when you strip it out and tune the engine, with all the stuff up front and an empty chasm at the rear.
if you put the rad in the boot you will need an electric booster pump:nod:
if you put the rad in the boot you will need an electric booster pump:nod:
That's an interesting thought that hadn't occured to me....
Colin Gibson
04-01-2007, 22:12
Yeah, but only the begining of the engineering challenges likely involved in making it work well I would think.
Yeah, but only the begining of the engineering challenges likely involved in making it work well I would think.
The engineering challenges aren't too hideous. Plumbing is simple, as is fitment. Airflow and water flow are the two biggies, both of which can be tackled with bigger pumps / fans...
... I hope...
...but the rad in boot project is on hold, as I say, whilst other niggles are fixed in time for NBR2007
Edit: Saw you metioned Koyo iin another post, Colin. Yes, this is a serious option now, having lookd closely at the rad i was planning to use, this is actually not that great, and I really don't want to start down something that ultimately needs re-doing. A Koyo can be dropped straight in the front, short term, too.
ShawJohn
05-01-2007, 07:57
I'd use stainless hard pipes as well, less risk of corrosion, leaks, and blockages.
A common fault on the MGF is the front mount rad pipes failing or being restricted resulting in a blown HG.
ah yes dont think i mentioned i use a Davies Craig EWPump mounted below rear rad. It requires the std mechanical pump to be discarded (remove the impeller). I run two big Spal fans on a Golf TDi rad.
Colin Gibson
05-01-2007, 11:54
here's some:
just looking at your pics of the interior with dash removed,
dont know if you weighed any of your stuff,
but my thoughts, when I took out the dash (for a/c and airbags removal, )and then put it back again, were that the dash itself does seem pretty heavy.
Im also wondering how much weight is in the blower system as a whole,
The dash is such a major cosmetic area, but perhaps it might be possible to remove all the above and then fit some kind of thin, lightweight sheeting (carbon look?:p ), to cover some of the, (mainly passenger side), dash area, just to make it look slightly better,
and then use one of those little plug in heater/blower things for windscreen clearing...?
wonder if it could have any measurable effect on F/R balance?
just looking at your pics of the interior with dash removed,
dont know if you weighed any of your stuff,
but my thoughts, when I took out the dash (for a/c and airbags removal, )and then put it back again, were that the dash itself does seem pretty heavy.
Im also wondering how much weight is in the blower system as a whole,
The dash is such a major cosmetic area, but perhaps it might be possible to remove all the above and then fit some kind of thin, lightweight sheeting (carbon look?:p ), to cover some of the, (mainly passenger side), dash area, just to make it look slightly better,
and then use one of those little plug in heater/blower things for windscreen clearing...?
wonder if it could have any measurable effect on F/R balance?
That's exactly what I was thinking of doing and got told not to be a gayer as the dash weighs cock all anyway :wack:
Having taken it out and seen all the shite behind it, I reckon there's a good saving to be made there. :nod:
That's exactly what I was thinking of doing and got told not to be a gayer as the dash weighs cock all anyway :wack:
Having taken it out and seen all the shite behind it, I reckon there's a good saving to be made there. :nod:
The dash unit is heavy :nod:
...as things go, anyway.It's cumulative, and I'm not really arsed what the passenger has to look at! :D The heater matrix / blower have all come out, and also weighed a reasonable amount. Aside from air-con, spare wheel, rear towing point and some other bits, there's not many things that in them selves weigh "a lot".
What have you done suspension wise to counteract you moving weight backwards in the car ??
Are you finding the front is becoming stiffer and stiffer as there is less weight pushing down on the springs, or is it all kind of negligable ?
I have visions of people going from 8/6 springs to trying to find 7/7/ ones :D
Err other way round. He has lost more weight at the back than the front so is finding the back stifffer.... i think.
the spring are a consistent rate, so wont feel stiffer with more or less weight, provided they don't become coil bound. I run 8's at the front and 6's at the rear, but am looking to go softer at the rear to stop the back end coming loose under braking.
Of course, the real answer is to get 50/50 distribution...
to stop the back end coming loose under braking....
Have you been practising your heel and toe ?
Have you been practising your heel and toe ?
I have indeed :nod:
Difficult in the MR2, cos of the big dinner plate of a steering wheel :wack: but deffo in the odd outings of the Blue Peter boost monster.
just moved it to inside the engine bay - what a crappy job to do. :whip: :whip: :whip:
How did you do it? cut and splice?
mark_ashley
26-02-2007, 13:22
i can imagine, why did you do it??? i just secured mine to the very top of the wing.
96dennis96
26-02-2007, 14:35
i just secured mine to the very top of the wing
same here
no need to go over the top as there´s no way the tire can hit the loom
when it´s been relocated as high as possible
i added a some aluminiumsheet for even more protection
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/3570/relocatedloom28og.jpg
How did you do it? cut and splice?
Aye :smash: :smash: :smash:
i can imagine, why did you do it??? i just secured mine to the very top of the wing.
Hmm... :rolleyes: Didn't think of that... Having said that, I don't do things by halves... :D
Nice to have it right out of the way though. Wheels 9Js at the front, so were rubbing where the wiring comes into the wing from the cabin as well :nod:
Jon-s14a
26-02-2007, 14:44
Im about to move mine, is there plenty of slack to just cable tie it higher? anyone got any pics of it moved, drivers side yeah?
Im about to move mine, is there plenty of slack to just cable tie it higher? anyone got any pics of it moved, drivers side yeah?
I reckon there is enough slack to move it in the wing, but then I didn't actually do this, so maybe I'm not the right guy to comment... :rolleyes:
If you wanted to move it inside the engine bay, the wires which run into the fuse box are long enough. The ones that run past the battery tray to the front of the vehicle will need lengthening.
I think I might just move the fuse box all together now..... :nod: :smash:
96dennis96
26-02-2007, 15:30
Im about to move mine, is there plenty of slack to just cable tie it higher? anyone got any pics of it moved, drivers side yeah?
i had to find some slack where the frontlights are but then there´s plenty :thumbs:
yep. the loom is on the drivers side. therefore different lhd and rhd
Many thanks to archenemy.co.uk, who did what I asked, (and not what he recommended!!) and stretched the arches as far as they would go to accomodate my 9" wide 17s with an offset of -2 :rolleyes: :wack:
I finished the job on one side today with a welder and some flat bar...
and the finishing touches...
I'll get the rear arch up soon too. That's even wider.... :eek:
:eek: looks like guttering
will look cool with that offset though :thumbs:
JulesS14200
09-03-2007, 17:27
Cool, I'll be running -3 on the front soon :cool:
:eek: looks like guttering
LOL! :D
Guttering though.... :confused: :wack:
Looks good, quailty bodging that I has come to expect from you :D
Looks good, quailty bodging that I has come to expect from you :D
You think that's a quality bodge.... I'm currently measuring up to see if a jag V12 will fit... :rolleyes: :wack:
Recon it will provided I don't need a radiator... :(
Oh, that's right, I'm moving it to the boot anyway :smash:
LOL! I just set my car on fire.... Damn piece of foam rubber ibetween the skins on the rear arch :eek: :eek: :eek:
First time I've had to use my extinguisher. Damn that thing makes a mess!!!!! :rolleyes:
More bodging - I did this a while ago, but never got round to posting it:
Thats a good bit of work there :notworthy :thumbs:
I found :eek: a MASSIVE stack of aluminium sheeting outside a jewlers when walking to work one morinbg at about 6am. It was all covered with pictures of expesive watches and famous people wearing them.
My car is now largely made of it :thumbs:
Bought these from driftworks :Plug: the other week (four pairs of them! :eek: )
http://www.driftworks.com/catalog/images/large/LockBonnetpins.jpg
Absolutely AWESOME! Car is now lockable (bonnet and boot). They are REALLY tidy and neat. :D :D
VeilSide200sx
10-03-2007, 12:48
A mate of mine has these fitted to his carbon bonnet on his rx7. I'm not massively keen on them as they are quite big for what they are, but they're neater than bonnet pins.
I've got some bonnet pins from Apex. I'm thinking of fitting them right now, but its a chargespeed vented bonnet in fibre glass so it is double skinned... I think that means I will have to make a hole in the bottom skin big enough to attach the metal bits to the back of the screws...
It seems a bit like mutilation for something as lovely as what the bonnet is at the moment to be drilled, and I'm not sure whether the bonnet needs it or not.
I've got some bonnet pins from Apex. I'm thinking of fitting them right now, but its a chargespeed vented bonnet in fibre glass so it is double skinned... I think that means I will have to make a hole in the bottom skin big enough to attach the metal bits to the back of the screws...
It seems a bit like mutilation for something as lovely as what the bonnet is at the moment to be drilled, and I'm not sure whether the bonnet needs it or not.
What do chargespeed recommend? I only fitted mine because mine is a single thin steel skin (very floppy...) and i have no bonnet catch or hinges, so it's insecure.
VeilSide200sx
10-03-2007, 13:28
Fit them. I recall a nasty incident at the apex trackday last year due to pins not been fitted.
Don't know what they reccomend as I bought it second hand. It hadn't had pins through, but someone I know just had their bonnet flip up at 80mph and that had pins fitted... must have forgotten to clip em on or something, but he's still not got his car on the road and it was a while since he did it so must have been expensive... (Delboys old car :eek: )
I'm halfway through fitting mine, just came in for a moment but am about to go at it with the drill. Holes in fiber glass can always be filled if needbe :nod:
Nope - just a freaking mess to clear up! :wack:
200SX Dave
10-03-2007, 14:14
looks great mate, glad there werent no damage with setting it on fire :wack: could have been nasty
what intercooler are you running there? it's a nicer install with the pipes at the top..........
what intercooler are you running there? it's a nicer install with the pipes at the top..........
It's the usual e-bay / hybrid / apex type, only i turned it upside down and shortened the pipework. Takes a bit more work on the body to get it in though. :smash: :smash: :smash:
do i notice a door stop there:) also nice metal work:thumbs:
do i notice a door stop there:) also nice metal work:thumbs:
you certainly do! Just happens to be the right distance from the inside of my bumper :)
are those air horns legal for an MOt??
of course. They're just horns. :)
have you made a sneaky little water jet cooler on your front mount:thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:
have you made a sneaky little water jet cooler on your front mount:thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:
good spot.... :nod:
but it isn't plumbed in yet.... :no:
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