View Full Version : Handbrake with no LSD - safe?
ive just downloaded the drift bible DVD.
when they are dsrifting on there they handbrake first to get the back end out.
then rev around the corner.
the cars they do this in (S14) have LSD
if you do this without a LSD is it bad for the diff??
a boy i know once said that he did this i a 300ZX and broke something...
What a load of tosh.
BTW Butters for poster of the year:nod: :thumbs:
unipsycho
20-11-2005, 21:05
You have a facelift s13 anyway, which has an LSD.
You have a facelift s13 anyway, which has an LSD.
and pulling a handbrake turn will make no odds to even an open diff
BreadBin
20-11-2005, 21:07
BTW Butters for poster of the year:nod: :thumbs:
What sort of poster? :confused:
ok.
il be pulling off handbrakes like no tommorrow...
ive been studying the DVD, hopefully il improve my "drifting":thumbs:
ok.
il be pulling off handbrakes like no tommorrow...
ive been studying the DVD, hopefully il improve my "drifting":thumbs:
get to a drift day and practice there, that'll improve your drifting
What sort of poster? :confused:
most thought prevoking thread starter:wack:
BreadBin
20-11-2005, 21:16
LOL :wack:
most thought prevoking thread starter:wack:most likely to get knocked out :nod:
ok.
il be pulling off handbrakes like no tommorrow...
ive been studying the DVD, hopefully il improve my "drifting":thumbs:
And where do you do drifting?
And where do you do drifting?
round abouts, street places
most likely to get knocked out :nod:
:rolleyes:
round abouts, street places
You have just gone up in my estimations:wack:
I would suggest you stop worrying about the safety of differentials and worry about the safety of fellow road users before you kill someone :mad:
John Bennett
20-11-2005, 23:13
Erm, yeah anyway...
you dipping the clutch when you handbrake it? Something's gonna take a bit of strain if you've locked the wheels but are trying to drive them, however diff's aren't exactly expensive and'll take a bit of stick so I'd not worry too much :smash:
Oh and 300zx Z32 has an LSD (and it's an absolute beast in the twin turbo :eek: )
Erm, yeah anyway...
you dipping the clutch when you handbrake it?
no, its clutch in, handbrake up, handbrake down, clutch out, power on...
John Bennett
22-11-2005, 22:38
no, its clutch in, handbrake up, handbrake down, clutch out, power on...
So you are pressing it then? if so, then by pulling the handbrake you'll lock the rear wheels, the diff and the gearbox, but as the clutch is pressed, the engine is detached from the drivetrain and it won't be driving anything, so I can't see there being a huge amount of strain on much :no: . I think
What ever you do DONT use the foot brake, because if you are in gear and you press the brake pedal, the rear calipers will come on and your diff will snap in half :nod:
John Bennett
22-11-2005, 22:55
Um yeah, that too :nod:
LSD is best avoided as well (according to the councellor bloke in high school).
Take the diff out :thumbs:
I've heard some crazy japs used what's called a spherical flangulating hypoid modulator.
It works by a series of elastic bands tension, which turns a flywheel, and then goes on to turn the wheels.
This flywheel and rubber bands absorb all braking forces exerted at the rear and stops breakages such as Butters has described :thumbs:
I am currently devising a kit for the S13 and am looking for roughly £900+vat for the rubber ball :) PM me if anyone is interested
£900 ... err
(1) RIP OFF ... you can buy a standard spherical hypoid modulator and easily fit a flangulator from a scrappy .. the whole thing can be done for under £100 I reakon
(2) This breaches trade rules :whip:
£900 ... err
(1) RIP OFF ... you can buy a standard spherical hypoid modulator and easily fit a flangulator from a scrappy .. the whole thing can be done for under £100 I reakon
(2) This breaches trade rules :whip:
(1) If you looked at the standard spherical hypoid modulator closer you would see the standard triangulating atomisation singulator has a poor contact patch with the rubber bands so can lead to slippage and in worst case scenarios rip a black hole in the flywheel. Obviously the NISBO triangulating atomisation singulator has a transcoordinator built in to stop this from happening :thumbs: This alone makes my product worth the money.
(2) The board has already approved the PJ and Co. quality control methods so is currently going through the necessary routes to have authentication.
(1)
(2) The board has already approved the PJ and Co. quality control methods so is currently going through the necessary routes to have authentication.this matter is still under discussion :nod: WE have not approved it yet :mad:
What ever you do DONT use the foot brake, because if you are in gear and you press the brake pedal, the rear calipers will come on and your diff will snap in half :nod:
ha ha, how funny of you :rolleyes:
McRearout
23-11-2005, 11:59
in worst case scenarios rip a black hole in the flywheel.
Sucking your car in, inside out as well as any unlucky street traders and dolphins that happen to be within 40 light years.
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/images/smilies/wack.gif
WTF is happening with your smilies fella? Why am I getting a link to them rather than just viewing them?
WTF is happening with your smilies fella? Why am I getting a link to them rather than just viewing them?
cookies :nod:
My smilies are working, as are yours - but McR's are showing as links
mattkeeber
23-11-2005, 12:06
choc chip ones?
Nah .. chock chip cookies ALWAYS produce smilies ! .... wel they make me smile anyway
Mr Bizzle
23-11-2005, 16:45
Jezus :(
Butters,
You are pretty much right. The handbrake can be used for 2 main things in drifting. 1) Initiating a slide or "Breaking Traction" 2) Extending a slide or "Stopping the wheels from regripping when you loose momentum"
Experience is your best friend as with anything, but the main method with initiating a drift would be...
Spot and mentaly plan your route round the corner
Start off short shift into second
Let your revs rise
Plot your entery and then dip the clutch, snap the handbrake in a quick motion to unsettle the rear and the same time give the throttle a blip and then dump the clutch.
If you do this at slow speeds your car will spin if you blip to much, at higher speeds it may be nessisary to blip a bit more (in my experience)
You can sit on the handbrake for a lot longer if you like (phil does this a lot) However in competition drifting that get's you points deducted.
Front brake is used to bring the front end in tighter.
EDIT: Also worth adding that standard S13 and S14 handbrakes are bloody crapola. They are about as good as a chocolate condom. Adjusting your handbrake is going to be a start. Get yourself a 12mm deep socket and take all tension out of the cable. Or alternitavly get youself a Z32 or R32 rear brake setup. Will lock the wheels tight at 100mph.
EDIT 2:
All standard S13 and S14 diffs are crap for drifting. They are nothing more than traction control. Get yourself a decent 2 way diff (Kaaz from driftworks £589) or weld one up mig spec for £50. Either way, your not really going to make any serious progress with your drifting untill you do one of the above.
There ain't much that's going to knacker your S13/S14 diff as most of them are knackered anyway
ive gon on what the drift king has said :thumbs:
(Keiichi Tsuchiya)
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