Noob Question

[Drift_Kidd]

Right, when I bought my S13 it had failed its MOT on a few small things but now its running and okaii again.
I was told that I should replace the Offside Rear Anti-Roll Bar Linkage Bush, when I asked the mechanic that does the work I cant he said it would be easier to replace the anti-roll bar. Surely I should just buy the linkage with a decent bush and fit that? Im confused.

Also when my car went for its MOT before I got it they said it was puffing out blue smoke, the car didnt start for a while after that, tracked the problem down to a fuel pump connection and now it runs fine but its overfuelling and stinks, anyone know what this could be ?
Cheers

[Damo]

Right, when I bought my S13 it had failed its MOT on a few small things but now its running and okaii again.
I was told that I should replace the Offside Rear Anti-Roll Bar Linkage Bush, when I asked the mechanic that does the work I cant he said it would be easier to replace the anti-roll bar. Surely I should just buy the linkage with a decent bush and fit that? Im confused.

Also when my car went for its MOT before I got it they said it was puffing out blue smoke, the car didnt start for a while after that, tracked the problem down to a fuel pump connection and now it runs fine but its overfuelling and stinks, anyone know what this could be ?
Cheers

1st one you will need to take the roll bar off to change them mite as well do the lot on it iirc its about £40 for all 8 bushes i think

2nd one will be a boost leek for sure.

[Drift_Kidd]

I think my mechanic was saying it would be better to get a new ARB to not have to remove the bushes as you have to use a hydraulic press and it takes forever.

Is it definately a boost leak? How can this be solved then ?

[voodoo_melon]

Afaik none of the arb bushes are pressed in.

http://www.apexperformance.co.uk/cat...c04a61ef5abe4f
I'm sure the other traders on here will do them too.

Check all intake piping for leaks, make sure there are no open vacuum hoses. Check all jubilee clips are done up tight.

[Drift_Kidd]

How much work is it too remove an arb ? I might just remove it and take it to Mitch at driftgarage and get him to fit new bushes or something

Ill have a look at hoses and the clips tomorow, see what I can see if anything. I have asked a few mechanics are they have all said it could be one of the pips to the wmic as these apparently have a habit of collapsing.

Also, with the overfueling, the car is very hesitant, sometimes it will rev freely and high up the revs others it is hesitant and juddery. Anyone know what this is?
If I hold the revs at 1k and then put my foot down the boost is there immeadiately but sometimes from idle even pulling off slowly it just hesitates and judders

[matthew]

The anti roll bar linkage bush is very easy to change, doesn't require any hydraulic press either.



The right hand side of the image is the rear arb. Part 13 has a nut top and bottom, if you undo both of these (near side and off side) then the arb will rotate down. Then undo the nut on the bottom of the threaded bar and thats the bushings off.

The bushings are like really fat washers made from rubber.

If the ARB is loose where it hinges then those will also need changing see part 15.

The only parts pressed in on the back are the subframe bushes, and lower ball joints.

as for the boost leak it's most likely the cause of your other problem.

[Drift_Kidd]

I need to replace the Offside Rear Anti-Roll Bar Synthetic Linkage Bush, so which part is that on the diagram?
If none of the bushes are pressed in then do I just get a new bush?
Do I have to follow the steps above to fit the new bush?
Sorry for all the questions I've never done anything like this before

[voodoo_melon]

Four bushes on each side, I think it's 5, 10, 10 and 10 on the right hand diagram. The picture is only one side, you'd have the same thing at the other end of the bar.

[matthew]

Part 13 is like a long threaded bar, you have the nut at the bottom, then a big steel washer, then one of the rubber bushes, then the anti roll bar, then another rubber bush, then another big steel washer, then a bit of of the bar again, then another steel washer, then another rubber bush, then the lower suspension arm, then another bush, then the final steel washer and then the top nut. the two nuts squash the whole lot together and keep it all assembled.

You may as well change the off side and near side at the same time. so jack up the car and use axle stands. have a look for the bar under the car that runs from left to right and goes over the exhaust.

At each end of this bar you will see a nut, undo this using either two spanners or a vise grips and a spanner. Now undo the one on the other side of the car. make a note of what order the washers and bushes come off in. Now pull the anti roll bar down out of the way. and then undo the nut at the other end of the threaded bar and pull the bar out. Change all the rubber bits with new ones and bolt it back together, make sure not to over tighten the nuts as this will split the new bushes in a couple of weeks.

I might be able to get a photo up in a bit.

[Drift_Kidd]

Thank you for your help everybody and thank you for your extensive help Matthew, it is much appreciated. I will order some bushes soon and get this sorted. It sounds easy enough so Ill give it a go myself.
Just a few more questions though:
1 - Where are the jacking point on the back of a 13?
2 - Where can I get a set of bushes for the ARB?
3 - If I cant find a leak on any of my hoses, then what should I do next as with regards to my overfueling problem?

[nitrodave]

for under £200 you can get front and rear uprated roll bars with all new linkages... kind of makes sense to upgrade the lot of you're mucking about with them anyway. They also make a pretty big difference to handling.

not sure on the cost of the linkages alone, but the full kits that apex/db power etc... do are very good value

[Drift_Kidd]

The problem is Im 17 and I dont have that sort of money just lying around.
Its hard enough keeping an S-body on the road at 17 with all the stupid costs

How much for a full ARB bush kit, just for the back? I'll do the front at a later date when I have some spare money

[Easy007]

Can't vouch for the condition of your link rods and whether they'll shear upon removal but the bushes themselves are cheap enough.

Rear ARB link bushes

http://www.apexperformance.co.uk/cat...cd255eb17b68de

Rear ARB D bushes

http://www.apexperformance.co.uk/cat...cd255eb17b68de

[Drift_Kidd]

Right so I need 2 of the first link, one for each side and then one of the D bushes ?

[Easy007]

Nope just one of each.

[Tordy3002]

If its just the drop links that are naffed, just replace those. £25 for the rears from Apex. Easy to fit aswell!

http://www.apexperformance.co.uk/cat...cd255eb17b68de

[Easy007]

^^^ That's a better option

[remo]

Jack it on on the diff.

[Stevecarter200]

And soak them in wd40 or plus gas for a day or so, they are usually rusty as hell.

EDIT: Good thread by the way, should be added to the useful threads bit.

[R3K1355]

Yep defiantly go for new drop links, the old ones are usually rusty as hell, one snapped on mine.
The new drop links come with polybushes.

If your strapped for cash a nice cheap upgrade is to fit an R32 GTR rear anti-roll bar.

It's a direct fit an twice as thick, pick one up with bushes for £40

Here's a size comparison of the rusty S13 ARB against an R32 GTR ARB