My Sub Install

Maverick · 12-03-2003, 18:30

I have taked formula's advice and attempted to install a JL Audio 10W0 into the driver's side rear quarter panel. Here are some images of the installation.

I made a inner baffle to fit inside the hole so the sub can be mounted flush with the outer baffle.

The hole was sealed and stuffed.

The sub was mounted using T-nuts and bolts. The logo is not straight because the bolt holes were drilled with the maximum amount of material around each one.

The amp rack was mounted onto the seat back using Rawlplugs spring cavity fixings.

This is the only position that the amp can fit through the hole into the boot.

These trim pieces had to sawn off. I did this because I was not intending to remove the baffle. The alternative is to cut three notches in the baffle to allow the trim clips to attach. However, this will require a lot more work sealing the box.

Finished!!

formula · 13-03-2003, 14:03

gonna sort mine come the first of the month...

been too long without bass

ill post more pics of mine when its finished off too..

but well done.. beats losing half your boot doesnt it

Cookie · 13-03-2003, 14:14

How does it sound?

Rattles vibrations ?

How long did it take ?

What materials ?

Cost ?

I realy want this done on mine but i don't think my skill level is up to it.

Also how do you remove the trim panel and did you take a pic with just the panel removed?

C.

Maverick · 13-03-2003, 14:34

Hi Cookie, It sounds fantastic. The only problem is that I now should upgrade the fronts and amp them!!

There are no rattles and vibrations from the sub and surrounding panels. However, my doors (I was going to say front doors, but then I remembered!!) rattle a bit. I think I need to dampen the door handles a little bit. I should really have taken me about a day or two, but I was waiting for my kit to arrive. You do need to allow time for any sealant or filler to set though. Otherwise you will either damage your sub, or get it all over your hands.

The materials are pretty much as formula said http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.p...threadid=28765. I definitely recommend getting lots of M6 bolts and wingnuts for mounting the baffle to the car, although I found that the expanding foam holds everything really tight once it has cured for a full 24 hours. I also used some flashing tape, woodscrews and hot glue for attaching the two baffles together, t-nuts and M5 bolts for mounting the sub onto the inner baffle, and about 2 metres of cushion stuffing material. You'll need lots of stiff cardboard for making templates with. I shoiuld have spent more time making the templates, but I didn't mind cutting lots of MDF test pieces. Since MDF is porous, I also sealed the inside of the baffle with spray paint before I mounted it.

The MDF was 1200x600mm £4 from B & Q.
The nuts and bolts about £5 also from B & Q.
Spray paint £5 from B & Q.
The stuffing was £2 from John Lewis.
Expanding foam £4 from Screwfix.
Flashing tape £9 from Screwfix.

If you get all the fittings from Screwfix you'll save a bit. And you'll have stuff left over. I am still practising my woodworking skills and it was great fun.

The pan el is removed by first removing the rear seat back by undoing the velcro and then unbolting at the hinge. Then remove the hinge. Also take out the rear seat to make it easier to work. then just pop out the washer near the seat belt and remove the door sill. The panel should pull off. Don't worry too much about the trim clips as I had to cut off the three supports that take the plastic clips. Unfortunately I didn't get a picture of the car without the trim panel, but it is just a piece of sheet metal with a triangular (or near enough) hole cut out of it.

It is definitely worth it to get bass without losing space in the car.

Hingy

Maverick · 13-03-2003, 14:39

BTW I did apply a lot of flashing tape to the inner surface of the trim before I reattached it. I also left on the soundproofing. I guess it will be much louder without it, but will start rattling. An alternative is to cut a hole in the panel and cover it with a speaker grill or acoustic cloth, but then people can see that you have installed some ICE. I have tried to keep my install as stealth as possible. I think I'll leave it as it is for now. If I need more bass, I can always install another in the passenger side!!

Cookie · 13-03-2003, 14:43

Sounds Good.

Will have to have a go when it gets a bit warmer.

How do you find the sound stage behind you, is it very left or right or do you not notice it.

C.

Maverick · 13-03-2003, 14:50

I'm still playing with the HPF on the head unit and the crossover frequency on my amp. At the moment it is set to 125Hz and the soundstage is very good. I think the bass is not really directional at those frequencies.

I would definitely recommend waiting for better weather. This last week has been a bit windy and drizzly, so it has taken a bit longer than usual.

I forgot to mention that the bit that formula and I have been talking about sealing is the bit above the wheelarch. It is a hole all the way to the boot. I wasted a lot of foam on that, so I think it best to tightly wedge something in there first and then spray foam onto it . I used some spongy material which was inside the trim panel and after the foam had cured, I just left it there.

A consequence of doing all this is that you get rid of some of the road noise from the back.

formula · 13-03-2003, 18:25

125 is very high for a sub crossover, and most people who have a good understanding of audio will tell you that, but thats exactly where mines set (well, as near as i can get it given the sodding little dials..)

i find it adds a little non directional midbass as rear fill.. its all personal preference... most people set it to about 70-80hz for a 10inch.. we're obviously not most people

as for mdf being porus.. yes it is.. but the box i sold to "blue"

http://www.formula.uklinux.net/bootbuild/2.jpg

that was completely internally sealed with silicon sealant, costing about 4 quid, but to be honest i am positive it made absolutely zero audiable difference...

overall mate, the install looks absolutely perfect.. i know its always best ot do a full stealth install, but i have spare rear quarter trim panels and i can easily put a grill over the cone which would make the oval thats cut away look like an air vent.. i'm just gagging to put one either side though.. its asking for it! have 350wrms to share between two subs so it looks like it'll probably be two 10w0's next month

*looks at screwfix direct yet again*

Maverick · 13-03-2003, 18:32

I think I will keep the crossover as it is until I get some better front speakers, and a nice amp to drive them.

I'd like to get another 10W0 as well. Won't be very difficult to do.

I was thinking that I could cut the bottom of the panel towards the floor and no one would be able to see. Also the bit that extends past the seat.

formula · 13-03-2003, 18:37

i like my crossover as it is... its staying at 125hz

what fronts do you have at the moment? and what amp etc you thinking of getting? theres definately a space that needs filling next to the viper

Maverick · 14-03-2003, 00:02

The fronts are some cheap JBL GTOs. I think I will replace them at some stage and then run some speaker cable. I've been dreading running cable into the doors!!! I was thinking of getting a Viper 150.2 so that it will look the same, but only if it is the same size. The other amp only just fits. I guess the power will still be double what the Sony is putting out and I only want to amp the front speakers. So it will be much clearer than what I'm getting at the moment. And I already have spare power cabling and distribution, and I've run RCAs for the front pre outs, so I maight as well use them. I guess you don't run 4 gauge cable into your boot and then just run one 300W amp!

formula · 14-03-2003, 12:21

that amp will be perfect.. and you'll really appreciate some new components when you get the money together

i've still got some JBL GTO's.. 4 inch things with the worst tweeter i've ever heard... i really hated them, i think i'll put them on ebay.. some muppet will buy them.. they always seem to on ebay..

sold my recordable minidisc deck.. sony JE-530.. paid 130 from richer sounds three years ago and someone on ebays just bid and sent me £102 lol... cant believe it.. its a very nice deck, and i was expecting 60-70 quid, but with what he's just paid, in three years i lost 28£.. lol.

there are some bargins to be had on ebay.. but most of its just overpriced junk

Maverick · 18-03-2003, 16:24

I've only just started looking at ebay. Maybe I should sell all my old stuff on there.

formula · 18-03-2003, 16:32

definately...

loony prices.. especially for electronic stuff...

**Scottie** · 19-03-2003, 11:37

I have been looking at your install pics and think that you've done a really good job. It's always nice to see people trying the not so obvious and coming up with good results.

Maverick · 19-03-2003, 18:39

Thanks Scottie. I can't take all the credit, though. I think http://www.240sx.org/links/installs/jcope/index.html and http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.p...threadid=28765 had a lot to of influence on me!!

I guess this is a great way to justify a lovely ICE install to a girlfriend/wife/special friend. Just think of all the soundproofing to quieten the loud exhaust that has been applied to the seats and panels, and the newly found luggage space! Everyone's happy (especially the Mike at Car Audio Direct

)

RohanC · 23-02-2004, 12:13

Any idea if you can fit a sub in this location on s13's??

DarkLight · 24-02-2004, 08:22

I hope so, I hope to move my 10" there in the next couple of weeks.

great install Maverick

Dwayne

RohanC · 24-02-2004, 19:40

Quote:

Originally posted by DarkLight
I hope so, I hope to move my 10" there in the next couple of weeks.

great install Maverick

Dwayne

Let us know how you get on

Maverick · 25-02-2004, 09:25

Cheers mate. I've since replaced the front with some lovely Genesis A16s and they run from another Viper amp. If you do the sub install, make sure that you cut some big holes in the trim to let the air pressure out. I covered the holes with some black acoustic cloth and it looks fine.

12-03-2003, 18:30	#1
Maverick Flamethrower Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Northampton Posts: 2,740	My Sub Install I have taked formula's advice and attempted to install a JL Audio 10W0 into the driver's side rear quarter panel. Here are some images of the installation. I made a inner baffle to fit inside the hole so the sub can be mounted flush with the outer baffle. The hole was sealed and stuffed. The sub was mounted using T-nuts and bolts. The logo is not straight because the bolt holes were drilled with the maximum amount of material around each one. The amp rack was mounted onto the seat back using Rawlplugs spring cavity fixings. This is the only position that the amp can fit through the hole into the boot. These trim pieces had to sawn off. I did this because I was not intending to remove the baffle. The alternative is to cut three notches in the baffle to allow the trim clips to attach. However, this will require a lot more work sealing the box. Finished!! __________________ Last edited by Maverick; 02-06-2006 at 18:26.

13-03-2003, 14:03	#2
formula Guest Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Cambridge (beats the sh*t out of hatfield) Posts: 2,359	gonna sort mine come the first of the month... been too long without bass ill post more pics of mine when its finished off too.. but well done.. beats losing half your boot doesnt it __________________ 200SX - S14 - 95M: Eibach Springs, KYB Shocks, Strut brace, K&N Panel filter, Cuddley Polar Bear and Eagle F1s. Alpine 9813R -> Phoenix Gold EQ215 Genesis ST100 -> Phoenix Gold Elite 6.5s Genesis Miniblock -> Image Dynamics IDMAX 12

13-03-2003, 14:34	#4
Maverick Flamethrower Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Northampton Posts: 2,740	Hi Cookie, It sounds fantastic. The only problem is that I now should upgrade the fronts and amp them!! There are no rattles and vibrations from the sub and surrounding panels. However, my doors (I was going to say front doors, but then I remembered!!) rattle a bit. I think I need to dampen the door handles a little bit. I should really have taken me about a day or two, but I was waiting for my kit to arrive. You do need to allow time for any sealant or filler to set though. Otherwise you will either damage your sub, or get it all over your hands. The materials are pretty much as formula said http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.p...threadid=28765. I definitely recommend getting lots of M6 bolts and wingnuts for mounting the baffle to the car, although I found that the expanding foam holds everything really tight once it has cured for a full 24 hours. I also used some flashing tape, woodscrews and hot glue for attaching the two baffles together, t-nuts and M5 bolts for mounting the sub onto the inner baffle, and about 2 metres of cushion stuffing material. You'll need lots of stiff cardboard for making templates with. I shoiuld have spent more time making the templates, but I didn't mind cutting lots of MDF test pieces. Since MDF is porous, I also sealed the inside of the baffle with spray paint before I mounted it. The MDF was 1200x600mm £4 from B & Q. The nuts and bolts about £5 also from B & Q. Spray paint £5 from B & Q. The stuffing was £2 from John Lewis. Expanding foam £4 from Screwfix. Flashing tape £9 from Screwfix. If you get all the fittings from Screwfix you'll save a bit. And you'll have stuff left over. I am still practising my woodworking skills and it was great fun. The pan el is removed by first removing the rear seat back by undoing the velcro and then unbolting at the hinge. Then remove the hinge. Also take out the rear seat to make it easier to work. then just pop out the washer near the seat belt and remove the door sill. The panel should pull off. Don't worry too much about the trim clips as I had to cut off the three supports that take the plastic clips. Unfortunately I didn't get a picture of the car without the trim panel, but it is just a piece of sheet metal with a triangular (or near enough) hole cut out of it. It is definitely worth it to get bass without losing space in the car. Hingy __________________

13-03-2003, 14:39	#5
Maverick Flamethrower Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Northampton Posts: 2,740	BTW I did apply a lot of flashing tape to the inner surface of the trim before I reattached it. I also left on the soundproofing. I guess it will be much louder without it, but will start rattling. An alternative is to cut a hole in the panel and cover it with a speaker grill or acoustic cloth, but then people can see that you have installed some ICE. I have tried to keep my install as stealth as possible. I think I'll leave it as it is for now. If I need more bass, I can always install another in the passenger side!! __________________

13-03-2003, 14:50	#7
Maverick Flamethrower Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Northampton Posts: 2,740	I'm still playing with the HPF on the head unit and the crossover frequency on my amp. At the moment it is set to 125Hz and the soundstage is very good. I think the bass is not really directional at those frequencies. I would definitely recommend waiting for better weather. This last week has been a bit windy and drizzly, so it has taken a bit longer than usual. I forgot to mention that the bit that formula and I have been talking about sealing is the bit above the wheelarch. It is a hole all the way to the boot. I wasted a lot of foam on that, so I think it best to tightly wedge something in there first and then spray foam onto it . I used some spongy material which was inside the trim panel and after the foam had cured, I just left it there. A consequence of doing all this is that you get rid of some of the road noise from the back. __________________

13-03-2003, 18:25	#8
formula Guest Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Cambridge (beats the sh*t out of hatfield) Posts: 2,359	125 is very high for a sub crossover, and most people who have a good understanding of audio will tell you that, but thats exactly where mines set (well, as near as i can get it given the sodding little dials..) i find it adds a little non directional midbass as rear fill.. its all personal preference... most people set it to about 70-80hz for a 10inch.. we're obviously not most people as for mdf being porus.. yes it is.. but the box i sold to "blue" http://www.formula.uklinux.net/bootbuild/2.jpg that was completely internally sealed with silicon sealant, costing about 4 quid, but to be honest i am positive it made absolutely zero audiable difference... overall mate, the install looks absolutely perfect.. i know its always best ot do a full stealth install, but i have spare rear quarter trim panels and i can easily put a grill over the cone which would make the oval thats cut away look like an air vent.. i'm just gagging to put one either side though.. its asking for it! have 350wrms to share between two subs so it looks like it'll probably be two 10w0's next month looks at screwfix direct yet again __________________ 200SX - S14 - 95M: Eibach Springs, KYB Shocks, Strut brace, K&N Panel filter, Cuddley Polar Bear and Eagle F1s. Alpine 9813R -> Phoenix Gold EQ215 Genesis ST100 -> Phoenix Gold Elite 6.5s Genesis Miniblock -> Image Dynamics IDMAX 12

13-03-2003, 18:32	#9
Maverick Flamethrower Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Northampton Posts: 2,740	I think I will keep the crossover as it is until I get some better front speakers, and a nice amp to drive them. I'd like to get another 10W0 as well. Won't be very difficult to do. I was thinking that I could cut the bottom of the panel towards the floor and no one would be able to see. Also the bit that extends past the seat. __________________

13-03-2003, 18:37	#10
formula Guest Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Cambridge (beats the sh*t out of hatfield) Posts: 2,359	i like my crossover as it is... its staying at 125hz what fronts do you have at the moment? and what amp etc you thinking of getting? theres definately a space that needs filling next to the viper __________________ 200SX - S14 - 95M: Eibach Springs, KYB Shocks, Strut brace, K&N Panel filter, Cuddley Polar Bear and Eagle F1s. Alpine 9813R -> Phoenix Gold EQ215 Genesis ST100 -> Phoenix Gold Elite 6.5s Genesis Miniblock -> Image Dynamics IDMAX 12

14-03-2003, 00:02	#11
Maverick Flamethrower Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Northampton Posts: 2,740	The fronts are some cheap JBL GTOs. I think I will replace them at some stage and then run some speaker cable. I've been dreading running cable into the doors!!! I was thinking of getting a Viper 150.2 so that it will look the same, but only if it is the same size. The other amp only just fits. I guess the power will still be double what the Sony is putting out and I only want to amp the front speakers. So it will be much clearer than what I'm getting at the moment. And I already have spare power cabling and distribution, and I've run RCAs for the front pre outs, so I maight as well use them. I guess you don't run 4 gauge cable into your boot and then just run one 300W amp! __________________

14-03-2003, 12:21	#12
formula Guest Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Cambridge (beats the sh*t out of hatfield) Posts: 2,359	that amp will be perfect.. and you'll really appreciate some new components when you get the money together i've still got some JBL GTO's.. 4 inch things with the worst tweeter i've ever heard... i really hated them, i think i'll put them on ebay.. some muppet will buy them.. they always seem to on ebay.. sold my recordable minidisc deck.. sony JE-530.. paid 130 from richer sounds three years ago and someone on ebays just bid and sent me £102 lol... cant believe it.. its a very nice deck, and i was expecting 60-70 quid, but with what he's just paid, in three years i lost 28£.. lol. there are some bargins to be had on ebay.. but most of its just overpriced junk __________________ 200SX - S14 - 95M: Eibach Springs, KYB Shocks, Strut brace, K&N Panel filter, Cuddley Polar Bear and Eagle F1s. Alpine 9813R -> Phoenix Gold EQ215 Genesis ST100 -> Phoenix Gold Elite 6.5s Genesis Miniblock -> Image Dynamics IDMAX 12

18-03-2003, 16:24	#13
Maverick Flamethrower Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Northampton Posts: 2,740	I've only just started looking at ebay. Maybe I should sell all my old stuff on there. __________________

18-03-2003, 16:32	#14
formula Guest Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Cambridge (beats the sh*t out of hatfield) Posts: 2,359	definately... loony prices.. especially for electronic stuff... __________________ 200SX - S14 - 95M: Eibach Springs, KYB Shocks, Strut brace, K&N Panel filter, Cuddley Polar Bear and Eagle F1s. Alpine 9813R -> Phoenix Gold EQ215 Genesis ST100 -> Phoenix Gold Elite 6.5s Genesis Miniblock -> Image Dynamics IDMAX 12

19-03-2003, 11:37	#15
Scottie NW Rep Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: St. Helens Posts: 7,861	I have been looking at your install pics and think that you've done a really good job. It's always nice to see people trying the not so obvious and coming up with good results. __________________ SXOC Member no.65 2004 onwards : 1999 S14a GT2871R, 555's, Jez Stage 3a, Apex Manifold, elbow, front pipe, decat, HKS Silent. Apexi Z32 induction kit and box, Z32 AFM, Greddy FMIC & hotpipe, Walbro, Apexi AVCR and SAFC2. Nismo S-tune, Whiteline ARB's, K Sport 8 pot fronts, Z32 rear, Z32 BMC, ACT Extreme Clutch, Apex front and rear strut braces. 1998 - 2004 : 1991 S13

19-03-2003, 18:39	#16
Maverick Flamethrower Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Northampton Posts: 2,740	Thanks Scottie. I can't take all the credit, though. I think http://www.240sx.org/links/installs/jcope/index.html and http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.p...threadid=28765 had a lot to of influence on me!! I guess this is a great way to justify a lovely ICE install to a girlfriend/wife/special friend. Just think of all the soundproofing to quieten the loud exhaust that has been applied to the seats and panels, and the newly found luggage space! Everyone's happy (especially the Mike at Car Audio Direct ) __________________

23-02-2004, 12:13	#17
RohanC Been away for a bit!! Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Hants Posts: 6,866	Any idea if you can fit a sub in this location on s13's?? __________________ 1993 Black s13 199rwHP 202ft-lbs, est 238 at the fly on a t25 Engine at Stg1, chassis, suspension and brakes at Stg3 to show more powerful cars up on the track GARAGE CLEAROUT!! *** Here HERE ***

24-02-2004, 08:22	#18
DarkLight NON-MEMBER Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Up to me elbows in Carbon Fibre Posts: 362	I hope so, I hope to move my 10" there in the next couple of weeks. great install Maverick Dwayne __________________ Of all the things I've lost... I miss my mind the most.

25-02-2004, 09:25	#20
Maverick Flamethrower Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Northampton Posts: 2,740	Cheers mate. I've since replaced the front with some lovely Genesis A16s and they run from another Viper amp. If you do the sub install, make sure that you cut some big holes in the trim to let the air pressure out. I covered the holes with some black acoustic cloth and it looks fine. __________________