Comprehensive S14a refurb

[Petrol]

Turret top cleaned up with a plastic brush in the leccy drill



Can't get into the seams







You can see why on this pic



Front of rear arch



Back of rear arch. I carefully opened the joint but can't get in to clean it up




Injecting Deox gel with a syringe



They recommend it’s applied 4mm thick. Not easy with a brush so I used the syringe






Covered in cling film

[Petrol]

Washed down and dried off with compresssed air



This bit needs another application



As does this, still some pitting in the seam.



Front seam looks good

[Petrol]

Got rid of the rust in the corner



Rust often starts on spot welds and seams. If the paint looks like this then it's highly likely its rusty behind



Cleaned up with a plastic brush. It's important to try to get any pitting or black "spots" out.




Then sprayed the Electrox primer on. It's thinned with xylene and I had to use about 10 - 15% thinners. Most car primers are porous meaning they don't offer much protection. This stuff however does protect so the plan is to get the back end of the shell in primer, then spray on the epoxy mastic.



I have had quite a few PM's asking what's the best stonechip and seam sealer. This is it but my bodyshop supplier had to order it. This little lot was £54

[archenemy.co.uk]

Its disapointing to see how poor the std seam sealer is

Good work

[Petrol]

Its disapointing to see how poor the std seam sealer is

Good work

I don't know what they have used around the turret tops Never seen it before but it's open cell





Unless it was a weight saving idea

[Ian McColl]

awesome thread

had me entertained for a good few hours studying every pic and your methods.

keep up the good work.

[Si]

Just over a week ago i discovered exactly the saem on my rear turret tops. I've gone the POR15/Metal ready route - don't think it's going to be good as what you've done though.
Top work

Have you done the rear lower arms and hub 'knuckles' yet? I'm just about to embark on them and am deciding on the best course of action.

[Davie]

Petrol, awesome thread mate, in fact it has made me want to go through your 13 project again.

can i ask what you do for a living, i think read somewhere that it's nothing to do with cars.

I often think that if people did this sort of stuff for a living, then would they apply the same drive and passion for a personal project?

[Hallsy]

That Deox stuff looks pretty good, is it particuarly expensive?

Have you gone off the U-POL acid etch now, or are you supposed to use the Electrowatsit primer after the Deox to fully convert the rust?

Do you think you gained anything from dipping the small parts over wirebrushing/blasting though?

[Mr OCD]

Not surprised about the turret tops... did mine two years ago before fitting the uprated suspension and Nissan failed to provide any protection there at all...

Thats why we are seeing some S14's now showing rust under the sealant in the engine bay round the turrets...

[Petrol]

Just over a week ago i discovered exactly the saem on my rear turret tops. I've gone the POR15/Metal ready route - don't think it's going to be good as what you've done though.
Top work

Have you done the rear lower arms and hub 'knuckles' yet? I'm just about to embark on them and am deciding on the best course of action.

I did consider the POR15 route but thought I would be too tempted to paint over rust, you’re then relying on the POR to stop it. I am trying to completely remove the corrosion, this can be difficult especially when it’s pitted which is why I am going down the chemical removal route. I have never done this before Not started on the lower arms and hub jobbies yet. Still thinking about the best plan of attack, or waiting to see what someone else has done

can i ask what you do for a living, i think read somewhere that it's nothing to do with cars.

I often think that if people did this sort of stuff for a living, then would they apply the same drive and passion for a personal project?

I am a video editor though I did work for ICI for 17 years as a mechanical / electrical engineer.

That Deox stuff looks pretty good, is it particuarly expensive?

Have you gone off the U-POL acid etch now, or are you supposed to use the Electrowatsit primer after the Deox to fully convert the rust?

Do you think you gained anything from dipping the small parts over wirebrushing/blasting though?

The deox gel is £9 for 1Kg but if you buy more it’s considerably cheaper.

The U-Pol acid stuff is fine if you are applying it to clean steel, it doesn’t provide any rust inhibiting properties though and I have noticed a few slight rust “stains” on the S13 suspension arms. You don’t have to use the Electrox primer after the Deox.

No I don’t think there was any gain in dipping as opposed to blasting, just trying to find an easier solution.


I spent over a week trying to find the best plan of attack but everyone tells you “their product is the best” I came to the conclusion that the best possible protection is a zinc rich primer over coated with polysiloxane. The problem with polysiloxane though is it’s brittle and could crack. Epoxy paint is more flexible and is the best bet. It’s not cheap though, the 2K paint I used on the S13 suspension was £8/L. The epoxy paint is £25/L

[Hallsy]

Ah right, what does the Electrox primer do then?

[RTLKyuubi]

it looked like a good idea to use the chemical stuff on small bits, but i would of thought it would be been easier to use wire drill bits and a drill on the big stuff.

Ryan.

[Lynxy]

whens it my turn with the real machinery

[Petrol]

Ah right, what does the Electrox primer do then?

Hmmm bit complicated and not easy to understand but basically it protects the steel from corrosion by both barrier and cathodic protection (I think)

I found this on the zinc information webby

"Zinc coatings for iron and steel provide excellent corrosion resistance in most atmospheres, in hard fresh waters, and in contact with many natural and synthetic substances. Zinc coatings are widely used to protect finished products ranging from structural steelwork for buildings and bridges, to nuts, bolts, strip, sheet, wire and tube. The electrochemical relationship between zinc and steel enables zinc coatings also to protect steel at cut edges and at breaks in the coating by a sacrificial action"


Theres rust behind most of the spot weld's







One rust spot led to another Thats more or less the whole of the NS chassis leg stripped

[winty]

Bloody Hell
Amazing work as always Petrol
The main thing that always impresses me is your determination to
carry on start to finish

Do you ever waiver with enthusiasm?

[Petrol]

Do you ever waiver with enthusiasm?

All the time To be honest I enjoy most of the work but I hate wire brushing rust off So Lynxy is on the case




Midlands_Si

Thought I would try the gel on the rear wheel bearing "things" - are these what you mean?


Degreased the bearing seal and masked off



Squashed a tube into the gap to protect the bearing outer seal



LOL




Instructions advise wrapping in cling film, I can't do that so I put it in a carrier bag and expelled the air



I will let you know how I get on

[cliffb75]

As ever

Some of these tips are definately going to get used refurbing the suspension bits that don't get changed for new ones.

Thanks for taking the time to provide such good pics and explanations

[Leviathan]

All the time To be honest I enjoy most of the work but I hate wire brushing rust off So Lynxy is on the case

Looks like Lynxy is holding the car up on his Knee

[Petrol]

Mega masking up job on the diff to blast the backplate. I even had the tubing in the output shafts like I did with the bearing carriers Bit OTT but better to be safe Also notice the tubing & bolts to seal the take off and returns for the cooler



I don't know what it's made of but took ages to blast clean - Oh and half a bag of sand @ 90 psi

Came up good though



The backplate will be lacquered and the rest will be black, similar to the cooler pump. I shotblasted the rest of the rust off the motor, used the Duralock on the bolts (thanks Evilchap ) masked up and lacquered it