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Thread: Comprehensive S14a refurb

  1. #781
    Guest SM's Avatar
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    Its shiny when you see it

  2. #782
    Member alanjuggler's Avatar
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    throttle pulley is easy, just unhook the spring and release the tension while it's still connected, then unbolt and it should all slide off.
    white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
    white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.

    current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.

  3. #783
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    I was just expecting it to look much brighter thats all, not polished. A mate shot blasts their alternators parts etc when reconditioning them and they come up looking like new

    I'm sure yours looks great in the flesh, other wise it wouldnt have gone back on!

  4. #784
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    its been laquered since

  5. #785
    Guest dnf03's Avatar
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    wow
    i thought your last refurb on the s13 was something but this is insane pete
    awesome work
    loving this thread big time

  6. #786
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alanjuggler View Post
    throttle pulley is easy, just unhook the spring and release the tension while it's still connected, then unbolt and it should all slide off.
    Thanks

    It looks to me like the diff plate is made of dural which doesn't polish up very well
    Pete


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  7. #787
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petrol View Post
    So far I have taken off the NS door handle and it was awkward to say the least, in fact I almost bottled it as it was that difficult TBH I don’t know if it’s possible to re fit it without taking the glass out.
    I have now sussed this door handle jobbie out. This is how I removed the OS and dismantled it.

    Remove door card and undo the rear nut that holds the handle in. Leave the front nut for now



    Push the barrel out




    Lower it inside of the door




    Remove the 3 screws for the door catch and lower it



    This allows the lock arm (blue) to come out of the plastic retainer (red)




    Remove the front nut then lift the handle out complete with the lock arm

    Pete


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  8. #788
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Remove the lock arm and push out the retainer using pointed pliers



    Remove this screw and take off retaining clip



    Handle bump stops can be removed with a blunt screwdriver



    Whilst pulling the handle



    The handle is hinged to the surround with a pin that's piened over




    The plastic trim was fitted before the pin was installed. Lift the trim with a screwdriver



    Then cut here




    Trim then comes off





    Remove the barrel surround




    Handle part is plastic and will be masked before shotblasting the surround

    Pete


    SXOC Member Number : 317

  9. #789
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    This is what Nissan should have done








    Centre console rear mount

    Pete


    SXOC Member Number : 317

  10. #790
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    excellent work on the door handle :

  11. #791
    The Welsh Whinger! pdh 14a's Avatar
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    Yep,that corrosion on the door pull annoys me,but mine probably won't get done

    You only need two tools in life - wd-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the wd-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.

    And if you can't fix it with a hammer,you've got an electrical problem!

  12. #792
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdh 14a View Post
    Yep,that corrosion on the door pull annoys me,but mine probably won't get done
    Why not wire brush them and give them a coat of paint?

    I am still learning some tricks of the trade After plating, parts have a silver finish, they are then dipped in a passifying soluton which gives the yellow colour. Sometimes they look dull and flat like this



    The throttle linkage was the same but I just scrubbed it with the scourer that comes with the kit and re plated it for a couple of hours. Re dipped it in the passifying solution and bingo




    Do you think the boost solenoid will withstand being immersed overnight

    Pete


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  13. #793
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    man the work you do petrol is fantastic mate.

    damo

  14. #794
    The Welsh Whinger! pdh 14a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petrol View Post
    Why not wire brush them and give them a coat of paint?

    I am still learning some tricks of the trade After plating, parts have a silver finish, they are then dipped in a passifying soluton which gives the yellow colour. Sometimes they look dull and flat like this



    The throttle linkage was the same but I just scrubbed it with the scourer that comes with the kit and re plated it for a couple of hours. Re dipped it in the passifying solution and bingo




    Do you think the boost solenoid will withstand being immersed overnight

    Could have painted them up,didn't think lol! I did waxoyl the doors when i fitted speakers 3 years ago,but didn't know how shite waxoyl was then
    Oh well next time the door panels come off i'll have a go! the handles won;t actually rust through though its just some form of oxidization i think

    You only need two tools in life - wd-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the wd-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.

    And if you can't fix it with a hammer,you've got an electrical problem!

  15. #795
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by damo_s13 View Post
    man the work you do petrol is fantastic mate.

    damo
    Cheers but having had a day out at Oulton Park makes me think I am fettling up the wrong car I wish I had the dosh to buy summat "proper"

    The clip at the back of the door handle



    Now looks like this



    Zinc plated as per factory spec, as are the boost pipe clips





    Maybe in 10 years time, this car will be something "interesting"
    Pete


    SXOC Member Number : 317

  16. #796
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdh 14a View Post
    The handles won't actually rust through though its just some form of oxidization i think
    It's just superficial rust really
    Pete


    SXOC Member Number : 317

  17. #797
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    Top job you are doing there
    Out of intrest what and how are you painting all the bits with, i.e, prop, arms, subframe etc? 2k black? with gun or can?

  18. #798
    South West Rep Evilchap's Avatar
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    Mmmmm boost solenoid...

    The answer to your question is throw it away More space in engine bay and less to clean

  19. #799
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Polo View Post
    Top job you are doing there
    Out of intrest what and how are you painting all the bits with, i.e, prop, arms, subframe etc? 2k black? with gun or can?
    I am spraying zinc primer followed by 2K gloss black with a spraygun


    Quote Originally Posted by Evilchap View Post
    Mmmmm boost solenoid...

    The answer to your question is throw it away More space in engine bay and less to clean
    I know there’s loads of bits that should be binned, the diff cooler being another example. I want the car to be complete though with the option of returning it to stock. It will be slightly modded – I have bought an SRB type 2 splitter but will keep the old one

    This one’s not for the faint hearted I’ve stripped the wiper motor

    Last edited by Petrol; 17-09-2007 at 20:00.
    Pete


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  20. #800
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petrol View Post
    It will be slightly modded.....
    I have bought another cam cover don't know what to do with it though

    I like this Anyone know how much a job like this would cost? I could obviously prep it



    Open to ideas though
    Pete


    SXOC Member Number : 317

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