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Thread: Not getting warm!

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    Guest motep's Avatar
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    Not getting warm!

    I've noticed especially during this cold weather that my temp guage can take ages to move and will hardly get warm at all. As a result the heater barely chucks out luke warm air which can mean a cold drive to work in the mornings!
    Is this usual for S13's (first winter with one) and are there any quick fixes (covering 1/2 rad for example) during cold spells?

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    committed. Jezz_S13's Avatar
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    change the thermostat.

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    Hmmm......after reading a few posts on here I thought it could be an air lock. I went out to the car and started it (cold by the way) and removed the rad cap. Coolant is clearly flowing through the radiator from cold . Would this suggest that the thermostat is knackered as it isn't waiting until it's warm before allowing coolant through the rad?
    Any pointers for changing the thermostat?

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    Guest ropeman23's Avatar
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    Yep, there should be no flow until the engine is warm. Sounds like your thermostat is jammed open. Same thing was wrong with mine last week! Belive it or not Hellfords sell a replacement!

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    committed. Jezz_S13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by motep
    Would this suggest that the thermostat is knackered as it isn't waiting until it's warm before allowing coolant through the rad?
    Yes, stat issues are incredibly common.

    Any pointers for changing the thermostat?
    it's an easy job, download the manual and suss it out.
    http://bagpuss.swan.ac.uk/200sx/s13manual (27mb)

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    Cheers guys!

    Job for the weekend! Hopefully it won't snow!

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    Follow the large coolant pipe back from the left hand side of the rad, you will see an ally housing bolted to the block with four bolts. Undo the four bolts, pull the thermostat housing off (you'll get loads of coolant poor out at this stage). take the old thermostat out and replace with the new one. Make sure you get all the old gasket off the block / thermostat housing put the new gasket on and do it all up, re-fill with coolant (in the rad not the expansion tank, but make sure it's all toped up anyhow)

    Run the car (idle), check for leaks, keep an eye on the temp gauge. If everything looks ok you're done!

    Oh check the coolant levels again when cold

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    Guest SM's Avatar
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    I have the same thing, however.

    1) I'm not sure that the gauge works.
    2) I have a reciept for a new stat fitted with the recon engine in September.
    3) The heaters get warm, but not hot, unless I drive with more spirit and then they get hot. If I drive hard for long enough the gauge can move the first couple of marks.

    Comments ?

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    Guest motep's Avatar
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    That's what I like - a Thermostat changing guide for dummies!

    Cheers Dude!!

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    Guest JJ's Avatar
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    thermostat......temp-sensor.....blokked rad.

    And that indash meter sucks.....not a good reading. Got myself a autometer watertemp gauge. Much better

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    Guest motep's Avatar
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    I have the same thing, however.

    1) I'm not sure that the gauge works.
    2) I have a reciept for a new stat fitted with the recon engine in September.
    3) The heaters get warm, but not hot, unless I drive with more spirit and then they get hot. If I drive hard for long enough the gauge can move the first couple of marks.

    Comments ?
    I can tell that my thermostat is stuck open because I can see the coolant flowing through the Radiator with the cap off and engine cold. Try this!

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    committed. Jezz_S13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SM
    I have the same thing, however.

    1) I'm not sure that the gauge works.
    2) I have a reciept for a new stat fitted with the recon engine in September.
    3) The heaters get warm, but not hot, unless I drive with more spirit and then they get hot. If I drive hard for long enough the gauge can move the first couple of marks.

    Comments ?

    stat; or supercooled coolant.

  13. #13
    Guest Big G's Avatar
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    drain your coolant out and then refill it with the ignition on and the heaters on full.

    Start the car with tha cap off and just fill as the level drops. Then fit teh cap back on and let the car warm up the heaters should blow hot with in about 5mins.

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    Guest SM's Avatar
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    Done the coolant change thing already - turbo gaskets, it will have to be done again this weekend - manifold gasket

    I suspect the stat also, but it was new in September, thats the only thing

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    i got a new stat for mine (auto S13) in Oct and when it got cold i still took AGES to get even nearly warm.

    tried a ghetto solution of covering 1/3 of the bottom of the rad with some thick kitchen foil and hey presto it heats in normal time now ie 5 minutes ish. have to change the foil soon though as it's beginning to get a little 'tatty'.

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    committed. Jezz_S13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Tarantula
    i got a new stat for mine (auto S13) in Oct and when it got cold i still took AGES to get even nearly warm.

    tried a ghetto solution of covering 1/3 of the bottom of the rad with some thick kitchen foil and hey presto it heats in normal time now ie 5 minutes ish. have to change the foil soon though as it's beginning to get a little 'tatty'.

    that's not good, the stat stop water going into the rad until it gets hot.
    If wrapping the rad help then it means that the stat isn't stopping the flow.

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    SM : maybe the thermostat is just not closing *completely* or isn't in proper alignment - that could cause similiar symptoms. My Micra does this, and will be getting a new thermostat soon. My 200SX used to do this, and the thermostat had kind of collapsed in a strange way - it did close, but was distorted so there was a always a gap.

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    Guest steve 1200's Avatar
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    just done mine had a halfords thermo init changed it for a genuine nissan one no probs now just make sure you put the bit that says top at top or it dont work propper

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    Guest SM's Avatar
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    I'll get a stat from Bren tomorrow, and do it while doing the manifold gasket on sat

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    Proper stat has a jiggle pin at top. Some pattern ones may have a small cutout notch at the edge - put it at the top. Both features are to allow it to bleed air from head when filling. Don't buy a stat without a jiggle pin or notch, inspect at parts counter and throw it back if wrong.

    I suspect even a slight case of overheating may damage stat so it won't shut right afterwards.

    If you can't get the right gasket don't get a "universal" one, just make one from cereal packet. "Universal" ones don't have bolt holes in the right place so you have to bodge them anyway and the perforations for all the oversize holes that don't line up means they are rubbish.

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