SR20DET Engine Rebuild

[Mark]

Well after a year of fooking about stripping 2 engines down, sorting out the good bits, getting them machined and buying the bits required today i finally started to put the old SR20 back together

Below are the first pics to bore you with and i will be adding to this as i progress When its all done i will probably find time to write a full rebuild guide with pics

Bare block on stand




Front view of block




Oil return baffle plate fitted




Piston cooling jets fitted




Main bearing upper shells in place




Crank fitted and main caps in place




Ladder frame fitted and main bolts torqued




Next weekend i should have the pistons in and maybe the oil pump fitted and sump

[Mark]

Update folks, spent the last couple of evenings cleaning the head, measuring the combustion volumes and lapping the valves in. Here are some pics



Lapped seats on left, Unlapped seats on right




Unlapped seats



Lapped seats




Unlapped valve, semi lapped valve, lapped valve




Flameface of head




Top of head





Was going to build the head up as well tonight but i have the wrong stem seals the normal SR20 uses both the same seal on inlet and exhaust but because the DET exhaust valves are sodium filled they are thicker oh well will ring Nissan in the morning to get the stupid price on the stem seals (guessing £50 a set)

[Mark]

Pistons went in today Easier to fit than i thought as they went in dry and i have always fitted them in wet. Picture below is No 3 being fitted.....



Big ends were torqued up and the side clearences measured, all in spec

There would have been more photos but just as i was measuring the clearances the lights went out Paul had a power cut

Will take more pics next week when the chain, guides, oil pump and oil pan goes on

[Mark]

Oil Pump Assembly




Oil Pump Components




Housing




Back Plate




New Rotors




Rotors In Place




With Back Plate in Place







I left all the hardware at work so will fit that tomorrow. The housing and back plate have a few scores on them but all the high spots were removed so wont be a problem Should be fitting it Monday along with the pick up and sump

[Mark]

Loads dont tonight so lots of pics

This is the block with the pistons in........




Measuring the crown to block heights for CR calculation




Chain on with lower guide and tensioner arm




Timing mark on crank sprocket lined up with coloured link on chain, the 2 black links in previous pic will line up with marks on the cam sprockets




Oil pump and front housing on




Rear seal housing fitted




Block ready for final parts

[Mark]

Pick up and baffle fitted




Sump casting fitted




Oil pan baffle fitted




Oil pan fitted




Finished Bottom end (nearly)




The only parts left to fit are the water pump and oil cooler assy along with a few adaptor pipes. Should be building the head up Wednesday night

[Mark]

Head assembly

Stem seals and valves in place





Collets being fitted





Head with all valves fitted





Head face

[Mark]

Looking more like an enigine now people, tonight the head went on, cams in and timed up

Head Gasket on




Water pump ready to fit




Water pump fitted




Head on




Tappets in




Shims in




Rockers on




Cams in place




Cam caps on and Spray bars fitted




Oil Filter/Cooler and Thermostat Housing fitted




Sprockets fitted




Top guide and front head plate fitted




CAS fitted






Cam cover and inlet manifold next

[Mark]

Made some more progress tonight after getting fooked about last week by Toomeys

Tonight was mainly Intake Manifold and a few other odds and sods



Blanking plate for EGR Valve




Bottom of Intake Manifold




Fuel Rail & Injectors




Plenum in Place




Engine Mount Bracket (you can see the temp sender as well, i'm hoping this doesnt hit on the Alternator )




Dipstick and Air-Con Bracket




Exhaust Manifold




Gasket in Place




Turbo Fitted




Cam cover and Turbo hopefully will be going on Wednesday if i have all the bits i need

Nearly there

[Mark]

Some more pics................................



you can see here the sender just misses the alternator Thats in its lowest position so when the belt is tensioned it will be well clear





alternator on, throttle body, coolant hoses and cam cover Found the coolant hoses round by the oil filter/cooler are a bitch to fit with the inlet manifold on so would have easier access to put these on before the manifold goes on

just got to wait for my GT28R to turn up and thats it

[Mark]

Yaaaaaaaaaaaaaay Tubby is on, pics are below......................












Need to get everything sorted for fitting now, fluids, drive belts etc

[will_datsun]

Fantastic pics.
How did you keep the chain tight whilst putting the head on.
And I notice after regrinding valves etc, you did not measure or re-shim the valves (like it says to in the Nissan manual) . How important it is to do this?

[Davie]

2 and a half years old this thread. Good write up though.

[cathaloc]

ya, just noticed how old it was there! really interesting though. great pics and info

[Davie]

Not sure if mark ever did do his write up though.... i'll check the useful threads bit.

[Mark]

I started on the bottom end and it was featured in a previous members newsletter. Not had chance to finish it yet

[Dan@DB-Power]

Fantastic pics.
How did you keep the chain tight whilst putting the head on.

You don't really need to, as once the right link is on the timing dot on the crank, the oil pump casing will hold it in place. Therefore there is no need to keep it tight as the chain won't slip off

Dan

[will_datsun]

thats fantastic news. *phew* good old Nissan. I was hoping they had thought of that. Just about to put my cams back on. I presume looking at the pics here that the head gasket goes on dry on the S14? (Despite what the Nissan pdf file suggests)

[Tammy]

Mark thats really cool real good pictures you have got pal would love to see some more

[stueywalls1]

Thats a really good write up mark I am sure it will help alot of people in the future