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Thread: Profec B Spec II Setup Help

  1. #1
    Guest ZXSpectrum's Avatar
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    Profec B Spec II Setup Help

    I dont know if you want to make this a sticky or something but it may help. Found it on a link from the GTROC...

    How To Tune Your Greddy Profec B spec II

    Before you begin, you should have an idea of what you're aiming for. For EVOs, 19psi (131 kPa) seems to be a safe setting based on what people on the forums have found since it is close to what the stock boost pressure is, yet there is an increase in power due to the Greddy unit keeping the boost close to 19psi while the stock boost tapers off as the RPMs increase. I will henceforth refer to what you're aiming for as "desired boost pressure".

    Definitions and things you need to know before you start:

    SET This is how you set the boost pressure. Rather than setting it in psi or kPa, the Greddy unit allows you to adjust it as a percentage value, from 0% (greddy unit essentially turned off) to 100% (greddy unit will set the boost as high as it can). This setup demands a certain amount of trial-and-error to properly configure it since you have to make adjustments, then drive under WOT (Wide Open Throttle) and see what the maximum boost pressure achieved was throughout the entire RPM range. SET SHOULD BE SET TO A CONSERVATIVE VALUE WHEN BEGINNING TO TUNE YOUR GREDDY UNIT. 30% SEEMS TO BE A CONSERVATIVE SETTING BASED ON MY TESTING AND BASED ON OTHER REPORTED NUMBERS FROM EVO OWNERS AND TAKING INTO CONSIDERATION THE LINK BETWEEN SET AND GAIN (see GAIN below).

    GAIN is defined in the manual as the value to adjust the "boost consistency". You don't really need to know exactly what that means. You should set GAIN to 0 when beginning, and you will then test the car under WOT while paying attention to the boost pressure. If the boost goes up and then falls off at higher RPM, you will want to increase the GAIN by a conservative amount (5% should be relatively conservative to begin with, then when you want to fine-tune it, you can go down to intervals of 1%). When you increase the GAIN value, the corresponding boost that you will go up to will be higher even if you leave the SET value alone. GAIN SHOULD BE SET TO 0 WHEN BEGINNING TO TUNE YOUR GREDDY UNIT.

    START BOOST (also known as SET GAIN because that is what is displayed on the unit when adjusting this setting) is the lowest boost that the Greddy unit will begin increasing the boost from under WOT. You want this to be as close to the SET value as possible, since you want to keep as close to your desired boost as possible. However, setting it too close to the SET value will cause the boost to spike. You should set this to a conservative setting when beginning to tune your Greddy unit. Then you can fine-tune it later to get it as close to the SET value as possible without causing the boost to spike. Fortunately, you can set this in psi or kPa, thankfully Greddy didn't decide to let this be adjustable in % like the SET value. START BOOST SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR DESIRED BOOST PRESSURE MINUS 4 PSI (about 28 kPa).

    WARNING is the maximum boost that you do not want to exceed. Fortunately, you can also set this in psi or kPa like the START BOOST value. When the boost exceeds the WARNING level, it will kick in the LIMITER, which decreases the boost a certain amount that you can set. WARNING SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR DESIRED BOOST PRESSURE PLUS 1 PSI (about 7 kPa).

    LIMITER is the boost percentage that the Greddy unit will lower by when the WARNING boost pressure is hit. LIMITER SHOULD BE SET TO 4%.

    PEAK is the peak boost value that the unit has seen since the last time it was cleared. To clear it, go to the peak boost display, and hold down the set knob until the unit beeps and "---" is displayed. IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO CLEAR THIS BEFORE YOU BEGIN JUST IN CASE YOUR UNIT HAS A HIGH BOOST ALREADY RECORDED.

    LAST BOOST shows you the last boost that was recorded every time the accelerator is released for 3 seconds. TURN LAST BOOST ON BECAUSE IT IS A GOOD DIAGNOSTIC TOOL WHEN TUNING YOUR UNIT.

    Keep in mind that when displaying in kPa, it does not show it technically in kPa, but rather misleadingly in bars, which Greddy inconveniently tries to justify by sticking x100 kPa next to the display. Therefore, 100 kPa will be displayed as 1.00 x100 kPa. Psi will also unfortunately be displayed in psi x10 so that 19 psi will show as 190, adding to the confusion.

    Another very important thing to keep in mind is that when you first power on your car or the Greddy unit, WARNING will be set to 14.5 psi (100kPa, or 1 bar) until you interact with the Greddy unit by pressing any button. This "feature" is not documented in the manual.

    Also keep in mind that atmospheric conditions affect the operation of your boost controller. When it is hot, you will get different results than when it is cold. One possible way of solving this issue is tuning your Greddy unit under the "Lo" mode for when it is relatively cold, and under the "High" mode for when it is relatively hot. Unfortunately, two modes are hardly enough for somebody that needs to account for very different summer and winter climates, and also for more aggressive settings for when increased performance is desired.

    The maximum boost that you will see is also not consistent throughout the gears, which adds even more to the confusion. Unfortunately, if you've already increased your start boost to the maximum setting that doesn't give you surging, then there seems to be no way to get around this variance in boost pressure from low to high gears. I don't know if this is a limitation of the greddy unit specifically, or if it's something inherent to electronic boost controllers in general. The only two things that you can do to compensate is the following:

    1. Set it to the "safest" of the settings that does not trip your limiter. To do this, tune the unit to your desired boost pressure in fifth gear.

    2. Tune the "Lo" and "Hi" settings corresponding to having the boost maximized during the low gears and during the high gears. This would require you to manually hit the button to switch to the "Hi" setting when you shift to third gear or whatever you started tuning your "Hi" setting at. This is why Greddy makes the wireless remote switch that straps to your steering wheel to switch between "Hi" and "Lo" settings.



    The following steps should be taken in exactly this order, taking into consideration all of the previous information:
    1. Change boost pressure units to psi if so desired (see manual).
    2. Set WARNING to your desired boost pressure plus 1 psi (about 7 kPa) (see above).
    3. Set START BOOST (SET GAIN) to your desired boost pressure minus 4 psi (about 28 kPa)(see above).
    4. Clear PEAK boost value (see above).
    5. Set LAST BOOST to ON (see above).
    6. Set GAIN to 0 (see above).
    7. Set SET to 30% (see above).
    8. Set LIMITER to SET minus 4% (26% if you followed #7).
    9. Test for boost falloff at high rpm. You should probably do this in a wide open area with no other cars nearby and preferably no cops. It is also good to have somebody in the car with you that can watch the gauge while you concentrate on not wrecking your car. If there is no boost falloff, then go to #10. If there is boost falloff, then increase the GAIN by 5% and test again. Keep in mind that when you increase the GAIN value, the corresponding boost that you will go up to will be higher even if you leave the SET value alone. Repeat until the boost pressure does not decrease, or until you feel surging. If you feel surging and the boost pressure still decreases (not sure if this is possible) then decrease to the last level that you did not feel surging at.
    10. Increase SET by 2% and adjust LIMITER accordingly, then test again. Keep increasing by 2% until desired boost level is obtained.
    11. Increase START BOOST (SET GAIN) by 1 increment and test until surging is felt or the WARNING level is hit and the display turns red, then decrease to the previous setting.

    Once you have followed these steps, you will have roughly tuned your unit. To fine-tune it, repeat steps 9 and 10 except this time only increase or decrease by 1 increment.


    Its obviously for an Evo but i have just set mine up properly and i am a bit happier today... When i got it i just plugged it in, played with a few settings and away i went... But after a bit i was getting all sorts of problems... But today i have got it boosting to 1bar rock solid. The boost is more gradual and smooth but thats not a bad thing... Will have a bit more of a play when i get chance to get a bit more of a kick but was getting a little bit of DET at 7K in forth so may have to back the timing off a tad... But Me>>>>>

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    this is the best bit, and its not in the manual

    The following steps should be taken in exactly this order, taking into consideration all of the previous information:
    1. Change boost pressure units to psi if so desired (see manual).
    2. Set WARNING to your desired boost pressure plus 1 psi (about 7 kPa) (see above).
    3. Set START BOOST (SET GAIN) to your desired boost pressure minus 4 psi (about 28 kPa)(see above).
    4. Clear PEAK boost value (see above).
    5. Set LAST BOOST to ON (see above).
    6. Set GAIN to 0 (see above).
    7. Set SET to 30% (see above).
    8. Set LIMITER to SET minus 4% (26% if you followed #7).
    9. Test for boost falloff at high rpm. You should probably do this in a wide open area with no other cars nearby and preferably no cops. It is also good to have somebody in the car with you that can watch the gauge while you concentrate on not wrecking your car. If there is no boost falloff, then go to #10. If there is boost falloff, then increase the GAIN by 5% and test again. Keep in mind that when you increase the GAIN value, the corresponding boost that you will go up to will be higher even if you leave the SET value alone. Repeat until the boost pressure does not decrease, or until you feel surging. If you feel surging and the boost pressure still decreases (not sure if this is possible) then decrease to the last level that you did not feel surging at.
    10. Increase SET by 2% and adjust LIMITER accordingly, then test again. Keep increasing by 2% until desired boost level is obtained.
    11. Increase START BOOST (SET GAIN) by 1 increment and test until surging is felt or the WARNING level is hit and the display turns red, then decrease to the previous setting.

    Once you have followed these steps, you will have roughly tuned your unit. To fine-tune it, repeat steps 9 and 10 except this time only increase or decrease by 1 increment.

  3. #3
    Guest ZXSpectrum's Avatar
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    Indeed the manual is soo bloody silly... doesnt refer to the actual terms like it does here... It is a pretty handy guide and i hope others find it helpful...

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    Its defiantely nice to see that the turn on set to 1 bar and alarm is a feature but stupid that Greddy didnt see fit to mention in the manual.

    I thought for quite a while that the unit was faulty until a whole load of other people experienced the same thing. The thing was really pi$$ing me off in a big way until someone told me to cycle the thing before moving off.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alany
    Its defiantely nice to see that the turn on set to 1 bar and alarm is a feature but stupid that Greddy didnt see fit to mention in the manual.

    I thought for quite a while that the unit was faulty until a whole load of other people experienced the same thing. The thing was really pi$$ing me off in a big way until someone told me to cycle the thing before moving off.
    'Feature'? Or error, or just pain-in-the-ass?

    Incidentally, I have a higher Gain than you'd probably get by following that guide, as I don't think a little bit of spiking harms anything, as long as you keep an eye on how high it spikes, and there is a theory that you can use initial boost spiking to get the fastest boost response possible. This might also explain why I also have a lower start boost / set gain value than they suggest.

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    Guest Drifter's Avatar
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    Just a quick "warning". All cars are different, so although the settings below may be a good start, some more tweaking may be required

    I am going to add my settings on here as I never got them quite right, and thanks to Gary at APT they are now perfect Settings are for 1.15bar on a S14 mods as below.

    Steady pressure

    Hi - 1.18bar
    Set 54%
    Gain 15%
    Set Gain 0.80
    Warning 1.20
    Limiter 10%

    Lo - 1bar
    Set 43%
    Gain 15%
    Set Gain 0.75
    Warning 1.10
    Limiter 10%

    Quicker spool up - slightly less stable on full boost

    Hi - 1.2bar
    Set 51%
    Gain 35%
    Set Gain 1.00
    Warning 1.20
    Limiter 10%

    Lo - 1bar
    Set 40%
    Gain 40%
    Set Gain 0.95
    Warning 1.10
    Limiter 10%

    EDIT: REVISED SETTINGS
    Last edited by drifter; 04-03-2009 at 18:12.

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    .

    absolutely FANTASTIC. i wondered why my 200 ONLY boosted at 11.6 psi, the odd time i would get a whole 13 psi, i was messing with the wrong settings completely must admit the onscreen layout of the profec bII is a bit confusing ( well it confused me anyway!! ) i was putting the set gain value up and didnt even know about the SET part at all!! gonna re read the manual now that i actually understand the bloody thing and see if i can make sense outta it
    ZXSPECTRUM thanks so so so much . now im away out to find coopers skyline for a proper thrashing match !!!!!!!!!!!!!

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    Guest ZXSpectrum's Avatar
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    Glad to be of help... I just copied and pasted it after a good search as i needed to set it up... Glad i could be of some help...

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    been playing boost games myself

    Just got my S14 with one these installed by the previous owner. But when it's on low boost i get a kind of pulsating effect. SOmebody mentioned turning the gain down, it was set to 16% so i took it down 2% and then another 2%, what i got was a big surge of boost at the top of the rev range and a kinda metal tappy noise from the engine

    So tell me would these settings you suggest be good for my S14. It's got a powerflow exhaust, walbro fuel pump, roller bearing turbo. Are the setting you suggest for the low boost or the high boost mode? man this stuff makes my head hurt! just want a fast car!!! haha ok but i like to get involved, so what do ya think?

    Ta

    Chris

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    Guest m4tt_c's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crispyscrump
    Just got my S14 with one these installed by the previous owner. But when it's on low boost i get a kind of pulsating effect. SOmebody mentioned turning the gain down, it was set to 16% so i took it down 2% and then another 2%, what i got was a big surge of boost at the top of the rev range and a kinda metal tappy noise from the engine

    So tell me would these settings you suggest be good for my S14. It's got a powerflow exhaust, walbro fuel pump, roller bearing turbo. Are the setting you suggest for the low boost or the high boost mode? man this stuff makes my head hurt! just want a fast car!!! haha ok but i like to get involved, so what do ya think?

    Ta

    Chris

    sounds like your hitting the boost limiter, push the mode button to go into hi then push it again to go back to low. bet it stops doing it then.

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    Have just fitted my Profec B Spec II will try Drifters settings tomorrow

    1 question I have is that there are 3 holes in the valve unit but you only use 2 of them and leave the 3rd open, is this right?


    Scares the s@#t outta me, but its got to be done


    Gaz




    .
    Last edited by Gaz; 12-04-2005 at 19:49.

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    Guest driftking's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaz
    Have just fitted my Profec B Spec II will try Drifters settings tomorrow

    1 question I have is that there are 3 holes in the valve unit but you only use 2 of them and leave the 3rd open, is this right?


    Scares the s@#t outta me, but its got to be done
    Mine is like that and has been fine for 18 months.

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    TomM is correct in his assumption, they are a trade off against one another, more spikage, quicker spool, spaikage is not the enemy as long as your car is setup to handle then. This is basically what the little brass restrictors do in the boost hoses on a standard car

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    Quote Originally Posted by drifter
    I am going to add my settings on here as I never got them quite right, and thanks to Gary at APT they are now perfect Settings are for 1.15bar on a S14 mods as below.

    Set 51%
    Gain 15%
    Set Gain 0.40
    Warning 1.20
    Limiter 10%
    hi people, wondering if anyone can help me? i've just had my profec fitted ( cheers to the midlands boys matt, ant and ryan ) and have been playing around with the settings but cant get them right.

    i have a walboro, 3" full zorst, ik22's, induction kit, and an fmic comig very soon. is it still ok to use drifters settings, or are they too high for my spec. also, are these settings for high or low??

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    I used the same settings as Drifter (the settings you quoted in your post) and they seem to be fine, my spec is more or less the same as you, at least will be when you get your fmic on


    Gaz

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    cheers for that gaz! did u use drifters settings for the high or low setting? and will i be ok running those settings even without the front mount?
    Last edited by m-fluxx; 29-05-2005 at 16:15.

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    I used them for the low setting, it gave me a steady 0.6 bar then I just increased the gain figure gradually until i got a steady 1.1 bar for my high boost. I used the same settings before and after fitting my fmic, with no problems.


    Gaz

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    Guest fullmetalgasket's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m-fluxx
    hi people, wondering if anyone can help me? i've just had my profec fitted ( cheers to the midlands boys matt, ant and ryan ) and have been playing around with the settings but cant get them right.

    i have a walboro, 3" full zorst, ik22's, induction kit, and an fmic comig very soon. is it still ok to use drifters settings, or are they too high for my spec. also, are these settings for high or low??
    Theoreticaly these should be fine for the setup (once FMIC is on for safety I'd say) but with the proviso that your Injectors are up to the task. I'm still running std injectors and from mapping the car with Jez know that I was more or less maxing out at 1 bar.
    Admitedly that was on a bren device that was somewhat less stable....
    I'll be sorting a re-map soon so should give a better idea then

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    yeh, i dont want to push the car too much until the fmic is on. so does mapping on the standard injectors make a lot of difference?

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    Guest fullmetalgasket's Avatar
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    Not a very usefull answer I'm afraid, But wether mapping makes much difference varies hugely from car to car

    In my case I had a truely horrendous overfuelling problem, I fixed that through getting an E-manage which Jez mapped for me
    In my case that really made a difference as my car never used to pull very well over 5000ish RPM.
    After mapping it just went whizzing all the way around to red line nice and smoothly
    When I go back to him I'll be getting it mapped to whatever the highest boost my injectors can handle is

    There are quite a few S14's about which have maps that have remained good enough to not require tinkering thoughout stage 1 mods.

    Then at the other end of the scale people have cars that run lean at various points, which is of course bad
    If in doubt, your local RR garage should be able to bung it on their rolling road and can let you know if it's rich/dangerously lean.
    The cheap option of course is to set it up and keep your ears open for det while giving it beans*

    Mapping is just peace of mind to a lot of people - the knowledge that it's running 'right'

    * not nesicarily the safest though!
    Last edited by FullMetalGasket; 29-05-2005 at 21:41.

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