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Whiteline Anti-roll bars
EDIT: The original pics from my posts are gone but the writeup's still alive here:
http://kuddy.net/200sx
Right, I've fitted some whiteline anti-roll/stabiliser/swar bars over the weekend. The rear was a doddle but I've got a niggling doubt whether I've fitted the front one correctly.
It came with a pair of L-brackets that have 1 bolt and two holes:
Is there any reason why it's got two holes because as far as I can see, there's only one hole in the drop link to bolt it to?
So I just bolted the droplink into one of the holes and fitted it, but as I'm sure you can imagine, I'm worried that I've done it arse-about-tit...
Any info mucho welcome.
BTW, I'll be doing a fitting guide on my site as usual once I'm sure..
Last edited by Kuddy; 07-04-2008 at 18:25.
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At the RR meet at Andover I was earwigging about this and belive its something to do with two diff configs.
I belive it was maverick that was trying to get his fitted.
What they did was fit the roll bar and the part with the two holes and depending on which hole that it aligned with just fittted it in that one
Try asking maverick he may be able to shed some more light on it
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It's either:
To allow you to adjust the bars even more, by using either the front of rear holes on each L piece to adjust the tension.
or
You have to use specifically the front orrear hole on each L piece, and when you mount left and right the holes need to match both sides... It saves making 'handed' L pieces.
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Ahh, cheers guys
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Re: Whiteline Anti-roll bars
Originally posted by kuddy
Right, I've fitted some whiteline anti-roll/stabiliser/swar bars over the weekend. The rear was a doddle but I've got a niggling doubt whether I've fitted the front one correctly.
It came with a pair of L-brackets that have 1 bolt and two holes:
Just a word of warning, be carefull when doing up the nut where the L-bracket bolts through the suspension arm. We somehow managed to strip the thread of the L-bracket's welded bolt and have had to get a replacement L-Bracket .
I am also not sure why they choose to supply nyloc nuts for the L-bracket's welded bolt and not normal nuts. Any Ideas anyone?
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Thats strange as I would thought they would have bben hardened steel, but fromn the pic they look quite soft.
I would have used two nuts with some loctite 242
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Not fitted mine yet. They are still in the living room!!!
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Good work Fella!!
You can show me how it's done when I get some
Cheers
Greg
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Well, it's all fitted and hopefully correctly.
Took about 2.5hrs for the front but most of that was staring at the bits wondering how they fitted together.
Took 30 mins for the rear one.
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Sweet. lets us know the difference in drive quality
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Well, it doesn't wheelspin as much in 2nd anymore but that could just be my imagination. The car feels tighter on turn-in, although with it being wet at the mo I'm not willing to push it hard anywhere.
I've only done about 20 miles on it so far but I suppose a trackday early next year would be good to figure out the best settings for my driving.
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Re: Re: Whiteline Anti-roll bars
Originally posted by Grazor
Just a word of warning, be carefull when doing up the nut where the L-bracket bolts through the suspension arm. We somehow managed to strip the thread of the L-bracket's welded bolt and have had to get a replacement L-Bracket .
I am also not sure why they choose to supply nyloc nuts for the L-bracket's welded bolt and not normal nuts. Any Ideas anyone?
Fitted mine the other week
My take on the Nylocks was because in this case you put the L bracket on the top of the suspension arm, the thread goes through the arm, you stick the rubber bush on the thread (the original rubber) then that big washer then the nylock. Well thats what I did
Then you put the nut on and start doing it up. After a while all you're doing is squashing the rubber bush, and you don't want to squash it too much, so I think they give you a nylock so that it doesn't come undone, as perhaps a normal nut would if the suspension is flexing and the rubber is giving and the nut comes unloaded and starts to undo. Thats my take, I'll be checking them soon
Whiteline really need to put some instructions in there, just saying on the box reuse original parts where necessary isn't good enough.
However I was impressed by the fit, I got the fron bar attached to the body, put the L brackets on, swung the bar down to meet the L brackets and it all lined up nicely. Pleased with that.
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I didn't reuse any parts....(apart from the 4 bolts on the middle of the bar)
I just put the L-bracket on the tranverse link and did it up proper tight.
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Originally at both front and rear the drop links are bushed either side of the suspension arm to which they are bolted.
I looked at another thread on here which showed a photo and they had reused the rubber bushes under the front suspension arm. Thinking about it maybe I should have put the bush on the top as well. - any thoughts, the more I think about this the more I think you should have bushes either side of the suspension arm where the L bracket goes through - as the suspension arm moves up and down that mount point will move in and out slightly so you need rubbers there to let it move, or else it will be trying to flex the ARB arms towards each other etc. Edit: Bushes on drop link should take care of this
The new rear drop link had 2 new yellow bushes on it but the front had none. The front L bracket has enough thread on it to use the 2 original bushes, but if they wanted you to use the bushes wouldn't they have thrown them in as for the rear? Edit: no thants what the bushes on the drop link are for.
what they need is an exploded diagram for each car showing what bushes / washers and in what order.
As for washers I used the big ones between the bolt heads and bushes (front) put the non threaded shank of the bolt through the drop link bush, then the threaded section through the ARB with the nut on the end with a smaller washer under it. That worked out well and I didn't have anything left over.
Kuddy I think you have some of those washers wrong in the top picy, shouldn't you have something (the big ones maybe) between the ARB and the bolt head? you need something there, I don't htthink you need them between the bush and the ARB.
Last edited by archenemy.co.uk; 01-12-2003 at 17:36.
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Excellent, it allays all my worries
Nice one Ken.
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Do you think I should remove the links Phil, you dont seem to think they are any good, dont want to have anyone do their bars wrong
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Do I detect a hint of sarcasm?
I think those fitting guides are OK, but the writer has gone against some of the very few things whiteline actually tell you not to do.
You shouldn't believe everything you read, looking at that gave me nothing.
Its pretty easy to work out the basics from looking at what you get in the kits. That article doesn't go right down to the very detailed level that I need to answer my question.
I could do with some more input, even better I could have done with it last week. If we sort it now others will get an easy ride
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No mate was being serious, dont want to link to a fitting guide that could be wrong
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Ok I think we've said enough, The article gives a good idea, but no better than you can work out yourself from looking at the kits.
My car won't drive up on the ramps I have so I stuck some paving slabs on the drive and drove up on them to the dizzy height of 3inches. Take off the 30mm its lowered by and you can imagine why it was a tough job, I spent most of the time with the front spoiler thing sticking in my guts or smashing my head on the exhaust. Oh yeah and I did the back in the dark
Must weld up some custom 200 ramps.
Its satisfying when done but you really need proper ramps or a pit or something. I think you could do it with the whole front jacked up and both wheels off, sure would make it easier.
Good luck doing yours
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Got the same problem, bought some ramps and can't get the bloody car on them
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I think someone told me....the guy that had 331bhp s13 at andover rr meet, that he measured the offset from the tyre to the the top of the wheel arch, got some bricks there were lying around used them inconjuction with a trolly jack to get the car up in the air and then get the required gap again from the tyre to the arch....if you get my drift.
He said it worked a treat, I think he used a level as well to make sure the car was square, sounds about the right logic
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Sounds about right but if you lift the wheels up to the normal position will they not then take all the weight of the car - you won't have it on the jack any more.
At the front if you drive it up on some shallow ramps / paving slabs and take the bottom bib off the bumper then it should be much easier.
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Why don't you just jack the car up then put the ramps under the wheels and now the cars on the ramps.
Just remember not to drive off the ramps when you finish !!!
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Originally posted by Green Meany
Why don't you just jack the car up then put the ramps under the wheels and now the cars on the ramps.
Just remember not to drive off the ramps when you finish !!!
Tried that can't get the car high enough on the trolley jack to allow me to get the ramps under
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I just bought a low trolley to avoid all that jack it up a bit, get the trolley jack under, up she goes, work, lower carefully onto OE jack, remove trolley, take down etc. takes ages
looks like 3ft long ramps with a lift of 4 inches are the way to go
If I make em who'll buy a set
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Originally posted by Mono Phil
If I make em who'll buy a set
Me
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Right, I've written up the install.
Can anybody let me know if there's something glaringly wrong or dangerous that I did?
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/kuddy/200...roll_bars.html
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Kuddy
Didn't you get any white grease to use on the poly bushes in the D brackets?
I got 1 sachet between the 2 bars ???? but there was enough for all 4 bushes.
Also the D brackets don't have to be done up "Very tight" spec is Rear 32-41 ftlbs front 29-36 ftlbs according to my manual. Do them up very tight and your likely to have problems with stripping chassis threads, Jackal has experienced this. I have a little and so have others I believe. I always stick to the bottom of the range to be safe.
Other than that its just fine.
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Originally posted by Ken
Me
Might have a crack over Xmas.
It will require a fair bit of angle Iron.
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Cheers for the advice Phil. Changes made.
Nah, I didn't get any grease.
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Originally posted by Mono Phil
Might have a crack over Xmas.
It will require a fair bit of angle Iron.
Let me know how you get on Phil, definetley be interested
Kuddy, nice work
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Originally posted by kuddy
Cheers for the advice Phil. Changes made.
Nah, I didn't get any grease.
The bushes are supposed to be self lubricating but you don't want them squeaking or wearing out. Maybe your local motorfactors can help?
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Just checked my fitting kits and they have a sachet of grease in each one and a lot more washers than you had Kuddy
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would pig fat do or a bar of finest northern lard?
Nah, I've a tub o grease in the garage.
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I've got the same amount of washers as kuddy, and no grease in one of the packs - nice quality control then!!
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Originally posted by Jammers
I've got the same amount of washers as kuddy, and no grease in one of the packs - nice quality control then!!
Thats what I had
on kuddys photo of front fittings the 2 biggest washers are already on the L bracket
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