SRB Power Ltd

JackaL · 27-08-2002, 09:50

How many people have done this? I know roughly how to do it - shove battery in boot, earth it, run great big cable to front of car... but I'm less sure about the finer points of the job.

Could anyone explain any of the following to me (in simple terms!)

1. How do I join the old battery +ve terminal in the engine bay to the new cable to the boot - and how do I insulate the joint to avoid an engine bay fire?

2. I have a cable for my ICE running down the side of the car already, but it has a 60 Amp fuse by the factory fusebox in the footwell - how might I join 2 bits of fat cable together, and as above, insulate it properly?

3. How do I secure the battery to the boot floor? Would I have to drill holes in the floor and make a strap to hold it down?

4. Are there any regulations regarding locating batteries in the boot?

5. Would I need a circuit breaker / fuse near the battery in case the big cable accidentally touches the bodywork somewhere many years down the line, and rubs through the insulation?

6. Do I need a sealed battery? To prevent fumes and spillage of acid? I saw a lovely 850-something Bosch sealed battery at Halfords... as big as a suitcase it was

Cheers

PhilMorrison · 27-08-2002, 11:55

two secs an I'll sort u out m8, I've just gotta go an help the Grand piano delivery guy

rah rah rah toodlepip an all that

JackaL · 27-08-2002, 12:04

Quote:

Originally posted by fattyluvshotdogs
two secs an I'll sort u out m8, I've just gotta go an help the Grand piano delivery guy rah rah rah toodlepip an all that

Quality work mate... pissed before midday! I like your style!

PhilMorrison · 27-08-2002, 14:29

Right, here u go m8, on the existing positive battery connector I chopped the circular bit off so I was just left with the bit where the bolt goes through, on the new big fat cable I crimped on a massive gold connector ( hammered actually

), and filled it with solder, bolted the 2 connectors together then cut a section out of the terminal cover, put a peice of plastic on the back and taped up tightly. Crude but effective

routed the wire through the bulkhead behind the plastic arch liner etc

I origionally thought that I would be able to use the OE Battery plate, but it's welded in quite securly, so went to the scrappy and got 1 thats bolted in. I had to fabricate the battery hold down plate with various bits of all thread, and aluminium angle.

heres the battery

heres the fuse holder, that required modifictions to accept the fat cable and solder.

every connector is soldered apart from the gold terminal connector. The Earth cable I cut off from the original battery plate, and found a good earth point in the boot and obviously sanded down to metal.

I still need to sort a fuse for it, it needs around 120A or the starter will blow it (I tryed the biggest audio 1 they do which is 80A and it blew immediatly

) has any1 got any Ideas what I can do?

JackaL · 27-08-2002, 14:42

What would we do without you???

On the fuse front, I was thinking of using 2 parallel fuse holders, with 80A each, 160 amps in total near the battery ought to be enough, and will save the car if that fat cable touches metal anywhere!

Is the battery bolted to the floor?

Did you get the tray for the battery from a scrappy?

What did it come out of?

And finally - I have a DETA battery in my Westfield - mind out in case it leaks everywhere

PhilMorrison · 27-08-2002, 17:25

Ahh yeah, I thought about runnin 2 in parallel but convinced myself it would'nt work for some reason

The battery plate was out of a Rover something or other, and the battery only just fits in it (but that adds to making it secure). it's bolting to the floor using to bolts that are already sunk into the boot to hold some electrical device. + a load of very small self tappers, as I was'nt 10 million % sure I was'nt gonna hit the fuel tank. then I had to make the battery hold down bar etc. All in all moving the battery to the boot took sh!tloads longer than actually mounting the IC, and modifying the bodywork and bumper around it

.

Ivanski · 27-08-2002, 20:03

Damn Phil, how many hotdogs have you been feeding that cat

FWIW I don't think I’ve ever seen a fuse in the starter motor feed on any car. Fusable links are there to protect the wiring loom (which is usually the single most expensive component in a modern motor

) but the starter feed usually goes straight to the starter solenoid. Cold winter mornings are when the starter will be drawing the most current, which isn’t the best time to be searching for those two 80A fuses you ‘put somewhere safe’ last summer….

My old hillclimber has a rear mounted battery and the main feed runs through the passenger space via an isolator switch through to the engine compartment. The feed for the ignition etc was taken from near the starter solenoid 'hot' feed and routed through the fuse box etc.

For the SX I'd be *VERY* careful with the cable routing and perhaps fit a motorsport style isolator switch near the battery and / or some quick release battery connectors. I wouldn’t bother with a fuse in the main line as 100+Amps worth of current is enough to start a nice fire whether it goes through a fuse or not!

I think Armtech make a nice electronic isolator (push button control) that can be fitted next to the battery to provide a remote cut off. This could be a nice touch.

Cheers

PhilMorrison · 27-08-2002, 21:51

Hehe Pussyluvshotdogs

cheers for the heads up m8, I did wonder if the fuse would actually break if the cable earthed, but u sound like u know what ur on about (where as I don't

), and it would not due to the size of the fuse. I think I may have to get an isolator then. great more money more wireing

Cheers

Phil

Ivanski · 27-08-2002, 22:38

Quote:

Originally posted by fattyluvshotdogs
.......but u sound like u know what ur on about
Hell no

I've just got a battery in the back of a kitcar that hasn't caught fire yet

I think I may have to get an isolator then. great more money more wireing

Allways more money

This is the isolator I was talking about.
Alternatively Demon Tweeks do a manual (big red switch) for £30 or so.

Cheers

Edit : Taken about 15 mins to post this from a Demon dialup

Daniel san · 28-08-2002, 00:08

If you're running a battery in the boot for whatever reason, it should have a circuit breaker within 12inches of the battery and preferably a second one within 12 inches of the lead hitting the main loom in the engine bay.

JackaL · 28-08-2002, 09:21

Quote:

Originally posted by Dan_BlitzedS14
If you're running a battery in the boot for whatever reason, it should have a circuit breaker within 12inches of the battery and preferably a second one within 12 inches of the lead hitting the main loom in the engine bay.

Is a circuit breaker the same thing as an isolater?

Where can I get 2 huuge great big circuit breakers for a 12v system?

Cheers

JackaL · 28-08-2002, 09:38

Would this do as a battery circuit breaker?

http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/PHOVB140

OR......

Would a BMW 5-series wiring loom have a large fuse near the batery in the boot? Surely it would be possible to just nick the battery wire from a bimmer, complete with battery terminal connector and engine bay connector (and fuse?), from any good scrappy?

SKIDZ · 28-08-2002, 15:06

You may wish to check out VEHICLE WIRING PRODUCTS on 0115 9305454 and ask for a catalogue you will be very surprised how expensive such places as demon thiefs i mean tweeks isbattery osolator switch which i still have to fit to mine(in da boot) £7.50 hows about that then anyway loads of stuff in there to kit your garage/shed out with.

Before i relocated my battery to boot i had several lengthy discussions with various automotive electricians and they all said the same thing you dont need to run huge cable, fuses etc just make sure the cable is PROTECTED from the body or any other place it could short and make sure the battery has a good earth!!!

from the above place you can buy protective sleeve and bulk head bolts etc very long and drawn out way but by far the saffest no loose wires anywhere protected through bulk head etc nice.

PhilMorrison · 28-08-2002, 15:25

Cheers Skidz, I've just left a message askin 4 a catalogue.

JackaL · 28-08-2002, 15:39

I found their website this morning!

Good site for all sorts of car stuff

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.c...page/home.html

Ivanski · 28-08-2002, 19:16

Dan_BlitzedS14, if your going to fit a circuit breaker you only need one the second will be wasted. (The first will protect all the vehicles wiring, the second evrything less the distance between the two

)

Jackal a battery isolator is just a big feck off switch that'll cope with any current you can throw at it. It won't 'protect' anything, but after a shunt you (or a marshall) can use it to disconnect the battery, killing the engine and reducing any fire risks. (You need to have one fitted for nearly all motorsports).

A circuit breaker is a resetable fuse, if you draw more than its rated current it pops out, cutting the power. Push a button and it's back in circuit. Finding one that'll handle over 50Amps is tricky & expensive. I don't think it'll be easy finding a breaker big enough to cope with the starter motor's thirst for current on a cold morning.

SKIDS/Jackal, THANKS I've been looking for that company for weeks! (and I lost the url

)

Cheers

JackaL · 29-08-2002, 12:28

Phil,

What car did the battery tray come out of? Was it just bolt in, and did you have to drill and bolt it to the boot floor, or did you use something like a self-tapping screw?

Cheers

PhilMorrison · 29-08-2002, 12:42

Quote:

Originally posted by fattyluvshotdogs
Ahh yeah, I thought about runnin 2 in parallel but convinced myself it would'nt work for some reason

The battery plate was out of a Rover something or other, and the battery only just fits in it (but that adds to making it secure). it's bolting to the floor using two bolts that are already sunk into the boot to hold some electrical device. + a load of very small self tappers, as I was'nt 10 million % sure I was'nt gonna hit the fuel tank. then I had to make the battery hold down bar etc. All in all moving the battery to the boot took sh!tloads longer than actually mounting the IC, and modifying the bodywork and bumper around it .

JackaL · 29-08-2002, 13:08

Doh! I can't even read today!

What hope do I have of relocating a battery!?

Daniel san · 29-08-2002, 20:35

Ivanski, you're right mate, I was thinking of my old system when I had a split charge and 2 batteries!

27-08-2002, 09:50	#1
JackaL Guest Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 7,957	Relocating battery to the boot How many people have done this? I know roughly how to do it - shove battery in boot, earth it, run great big cable to front of car... but I'm less sure about the finer points of the job. Could anyone explain any of the following to me (in simple terms!) 1. How do I join the old battery +ve terminal in the engine bay to the new cable to the boot - and how do I insulate the joint to avoid an engine bay fire? 2. I have a cable for my ICE running down the side of the car already, but it has a 60 Amp fuse by the factory fusebox in the footwell - how might I join 2 bits of fat cable together, and as above, insulate it properly? 3. How do I secure the battery to the boot floor? Would I have to drill holes in the floor and make a strap to hold it down? 4. Are there any regulations regarding locating batteries in the boot? 5. Would I need a circuit breaker / fuse near the battery in case the big cable accidentally touches the bodywork somewhere many years down the line, and rubs through the insulation? 6. Do I need a sealed battery? To prevent fumes and spillage of acid? I saw a lovely 850-something Bosch sealed battery at Halfords... as big as a suitcase it was Cheers __________________ 200-less

27-08-2002, 11:55	#2
PhilMorrison ///Man Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Bham Posts: 9,853	two secs an I'll sort u out m8, I've just gotta go an help the Grand piano delivery guy rah rah rah toodlepip an all that __________________

27-08-2002, 14:29	#4
PhilMorrison ///Man Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Bham Posts: 9,853	Right, here u go m8, on the existing positive battery connector I chopped the circular bit off so I was just left with the bit where the bolt goes through, on the new big fat cable I crimped on a massive gold connector ( hammered actually ), and filled it with solder, bolted the 2 connectors together then cut a section out of the terminal cover, put a peice of plastic on the back and taped up tightly. Crude but effective routed the wire through the bulkhead behind the plastic arch liner etc I origionally thought that I would be able to use the OE Battery plate, but it's welded in quite securly, so went to the scrappy and got 1 thats bolted in. I had to fabricate the battery hold down plate with various bits of all thread, and aluminium angle. heres the battery heres the fuse holder, that required modifictions to accept the fat cable and solder. every connector is soldered apart from the gold terminal connector. The Earth cable I cut off from the original battery plate, and found a good earth point in the boot and obviously sanded down to metal. I still need to sort a fuse for it, it needs around 120A or the starter will blow it (I tryed the biggest audio 1 they do which is 80A and it blew immediatly ) has any1 got any Ideas what I can do? __________________

27-08-2002, 17:25	#6
PhilMorrison ///Man Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Bham Posts: 9,853	Ahh yeah, I thought about runnin 2 in parallel but convinced myself it would'nt work for some reason The battery plate was out of a Rover something or other, and the battery only just fits in it (but that adds to making it secure). it's bolting to the floor using to bolts that are already sunk into the boot to hold some electrical device. + a load of very small self tappers, as I was'nt 10 million % sure I was'nt gonna hit the fuel tank. then I had to make the battery hold down bar etc. All in all moving the battery to the boot took sh!tloads longer than actually mounting the IC, and modifying the bodywork and bumper around it . __________________

27-08-2002, 20:03	#7
Ivanski NON-MEMBER Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Cambs/Wilts Border Posts: 418	Damn Phil, how many hotdogs have you been feeding that cat FWIW I don't think I’ve ever seen a fuse in the starter motor feed on any car. Fusable links are there to protect the wiring loom (which is usually the single most expensive component in a modern motor ) but the starter feed usually goes straight to the starter solenoid. Cold winter mornings are when the starter will be drawing the most current, which isn’t the best time to be searching for those two 80A fuses you ‘put somewhere safe’ last summer…. My old hillclimber has a rear mounted battery and the main feed runs through the passenger space via an isolator switch through to the engine compartment. The feed for the ignition etc was taken from near the starter solenoid 'hot' feed and routed through the fuse box etc. For the SX I'd be VERY careful with the cable routing and perhaps fit a motorsport style isolator switch near the battery and / or some quick release battery connectors. I wouldn’t bother with a fuse in the main line as 100+Amps worth of current is enough to start a nice fire whether it goes through a fuse or not! I think Armtech make a nice electronic isolator (push button control) that can be fitted next to the battery to provide a remote cut off. This could be a nice touch. Cheers __________________ Ivan Blue S14a [SXOC #133] - Got Spring!

SRB Power Ltd

Performance Parts Distribution

SRB Power Ltd

Performance Parts Distribution

27-08-2002, 14:42	#5
JackaL Guest Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 7,957	What would we do without you??? On the fuse front, I was thinking of using 2 parallel fuse holders, with 80A each, 160 amps in total near the battery ought to be enough, and will save the car if that fat cable touches metal anywhere! Is the battery bolted to the floor? Did you get the tray for the battery from a scrappy? What did it come out of? And finally - I have a DETA battery in my Westfield - mind out in case it leaks everywhere

27-08-2002, 21:51	#8
PhilMorrison ///Man Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Bham Posts: 9,853	Hehe Pussyluvshotdogs cheers for the heads up m8, I did wonder if the fuse would actually break if the cable earthed, but u sound like u know what ur on about (where as I don't ), and it would not due to the size of the fuse. I think I may have to get an isolator then. great more money more wireing Cheers Phil __________________

28-08-2002, 09:38	#12
JackaL Guest Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 7,957	Would this do as a battery circuit breaker? http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/PHOVB140 OR...... Would a BMW 5-series wiring loom have a large fuse near the batery in the boot? Surely it would be possible to just nick the battery wire from a bimmer, complete with battery terminal connector and engine bay connector (and fuse?), from any good scrappy? __________________ 200-less Last edited by JackaL; 28-08-2002 at 09:59.

28-08-2002, 15:06	#13
SKIDZ Guest Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Wellingborough, Northants Posts: 4,210	You may wish to check out VEHICLE WIRING PRODUCTS on 0115 9305454 and ask for a catalogue you will be very surprised how expensive such places as demon thiefs i mean tweeks isbattery osolator switch which i still have to fit to mine(in da boot) £7.50 hows about that then anyway loads of stuff in there to kit your garage/shed out with. Before i relocated my battery to boot i had several lengthy discussions with various automotive electricians and they all said the same thing you dont need to run huge cable, fuses etc just make sure the cable is PROTECTED from the body or any other place it could short and make sure the battery has a good earth!!! from the above place you can buy protective sleeve and bulk head bolts etc very long and drawn out way but by far the saffest no loose wires anywhere protected through bulk head etc nice.

28-08-2002, 15:25	#14
PhilMorrison ///Man Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Bham Posts: 9,853	Cheers Skidz, I've just left a message askin 4 a catalogue. __________________

28-08-2002, 15:39	#15
JackaL Guest Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 7,957	I found their website this morning! Good site for all sorts of car stuff http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.c...page/home.html __________________ 200-less

28-08-2002, 19:16	#16
Ivanski NON-MEMBER Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Cambs/Wilts Border Posts: 418	Dan_BlitzedS14, if your going to fit a circuit breaker you only need one the second will be wasted. (The first will protect all the vehicles wiring, the second evrything less the distance between the two ) Jackal a battery isolator is just a big feck off switch that'll cope with any current you can throw at it. It won't 'protect' anything, but after a shunt you (or a marshall) can use it to disconnect the battery, killing the engine and reducing any fire risks. (You need to have one fitted for nearly all motorsports). A circuit breaker is a resetable fuse, if you draw more than its rated current it pops out, cutting the power. Push a button and it's back in circuit. Finding one that'll handle over 50Amps is tricky & expensive. I don't think it'll be easy finding a breaker big enough to cope with the starter motor's thirst for current on a cold morning. SKIDS/Jackal, THANKS I've been looking for that company for weeks! (and I lost the url ) Cheers __________________ Ivan Blue S14a [SXOC #133] - Got Spring!

29-08-2002, 12:28	#17
JackaL Guest Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 7,957	Phil, What car did the battery tray come out of? Was it just bolt in, and did you have to drill and bolt it to the boot floor, or did you use something like a self-tapping screw? Cheers __________________ 200-less

29-08-2002, 13:08	#19
JackaL Guest Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 7,957	Doh! I can't even read today! What hope do I have of relocating a battery!?