Proof Reading

[turbo pete]

No I didn't do it this time. Kev200sx sent this. i have editted it a bit. Perhaps you guys can contribute as with all my previous ones.

Thanks for this KEV. i will send it off shortly.

If any of you have any pics to go with this it would be a help.
I can edit the pics and label them if needs be.

Removal and Re-soldering of Dry Joints on the S13 Dashboard.
Written by KEV 200sx edited by Turbo Pete


Safety first

When working on electrics you should always disconnect the battery to avoid earthing delicate electronic components.

You will need

posidrive screwdrivers
soldering iron.


Removal of dash

1. Using a large headed posidrive screwdriver remove all the screws from the panel under the steering wheel. (The one with the bonnet pull on it). There are about six of them and two are at the back and out of sight unless the drivers door is open.
2. Remove the two screws holding the bonnet pull on and remove the panel.
3. Pull down the steering wheel height adjuster and leave it at its lowest position.
4. Remove the two screws inserted diagonally upwards securing the top of the dash cover.
5. Unclip the bottom of the dash cover and pull forward slightly.
6. Now either reach in behind and push out all the switches (hazards, demister, pop-ups, fogs, dimmer and rear wash wipe) or just grab them and pull, they won't break.
7. Disconnect them from there wiring by the small clips on the back of each of the connectors. Don't worry, the connectors are idiot proof, i.e. u can't re-connect them to the wrong switch.
The order is
top left- hazards
bottom left- demister
top right- pop-ups
bottom right- fog lights
left middle- wash wipe
right middle- dash dimmer
8. Remove the top cowl of the steering column. It has 4 screws and the last one is only accessible if the steering wheel height adjuster is down. When all screws are removed the top cowl should unclip. You will probably find that you will have to take out the keys from the ignition and catch the small plastic dust cover that covers the barrel.
9. Now remove the dash cover by pulling it down towards the ignition, this will free it from the top of the dash, and it should just wiggle out after that.
10. You are now looking at the dash board unit.
11. Remove the three screws that face you, one at the top and one on either side at the bottom.
12. Now pull the dash out slightly and rotate it around a quarter of a turn by pulling the bottom out a bit and pushing the top back. This should allow u to get into the three connector blocks and unplug them by pressing the tab that sticks out on top of them. The one nearest the centre console tends to be stiffer that the other two and also a bit harder to get to (typical).
13. The dash should now be free but you have to take it out very slowly. If it feels as if it is jamming don't force it because you risk breaking the glass (plastic) front. Just rotate it a bit more and pull it out at the corner nearest the door. You should then be able to slide it out between the dash and the steering wheel.

Resoldering

14. Now you have the dash in your hands you will see the ribbon web that connects everything. Remove this around the rev counter and speedo and this should let u see the back of the chips.
15. Look closely at where the chip is soldered in and you will probably see small circles in the silver of the solder. These are called dry joints and they need to be resoldered.
16. If you are not sure how to do this find someone who is, or take it to a TV and video repair place and they will resolder it for you. It is a five minute job so shouldn't cost much.

Refitting

17. Re-fitting is a reverse of removal with the following points to note.
18. When fitting the dash in a bit of wiggling will be required. It usually takes longer to refit than remove.
19. When fitting the dash cover, locate it into the top first then negotiate the bottom. You will find that the small vents on either side of the steering column are a problem, reach up behind the cover as you push it into place and you will be able to guide them into place.
20. That’s it.


cheers guys.
turbo pete

[Stevecarter200]

Yeah, good. You dont have to undo the screws holding the bonnet release though, not unless you want to take it off completely which isnt necessary for this job, just let it hang under the dash.

[Kev]

Yeah u word it better than me mate.

Only thing i can see is point 1. there are two screws at the back, but one is at the centre console side, its the one at the door that cant be seen until the door is open.
Only a small thing, but its to stop peeps looking for two screws hidden by the door.

Kev

Ps. if i get time ill do it all again 2moro, just to check i havent missed anything.

[Stevecarter200]

Actually, isnt the screw that is hidden by the door also hidden by the kickpanel/fuse box in the foorwell? So you'll need to move that which means moving the plastic sill plate out of the way as well.

I think there are 7 of them as well, 3 to the front right, 2 to the front left, one rear left and the hidden one, rear right.

Ive done this too many times I think.

[Kev]

It might be Steve, i was wondering that meself, but i cant be sure just now.

I think the one on this car was actually snapped at said hidden screw, so i didnt have to remove it.

Ur defo right bout it being seven screws, but i think its 3 left and 2 right.
Will check it 2moro

Yeah ive done it too many times as well.
I think ive finally got a combination of lights i like this time, and my non-unique (cos u done it first ) spraying of the facia brings them out well.

[Dave_S]

As if you're all still up at this time!!! Im "working" I've got an excuse to be looking at the board

Dave

[Kev]

Sorry Pete, it will need to be changed.
should be

1. open door and remove sill plate held down with plastic screws (try to use the best fitting screwdriver as the screws are easily chewed)
2. remove kick panel with fuse cover, i plastic screw in line with the sill plate half way up the door frame, 1 screw at the back beside the accelerator, and one screw that is sunk in slightly at the front, then wiggle it out.
3.Using a large pozidrive screwdriver remove all "7" screws from the bottom panel (the one with the bonnet pull) there are 2 at the front left, 1 at rear left, 3 at front right and one at rear right which is now exposed by removing the kick panel with the fuse cover.

I appologise guys, knew it was a bad idea me trying to do a write up.
Steve, u were right mate, i bow to ur superior knowledge.

As Steve says, u dont have to undo the two bonnet pull screws and remove the panel all together, it just means it doesnt rub against ur legs and annoy u.
Also the top cowel on the steering column is not a must, but it makes it a tiny bit easier to get the dash out.

an Kev

[Stevecarter200]

Not supior knowledge mate, just spent too much time fookin about with the bloody thing.

[turbo pete]

too drunk at the mo. I'll sort it though.
cheers
turbo pete

[turbo pete]

Final edit???

One more thing. anyone got any pics of the dash. Labelled would be even better.



Removal and Re-soldering of Dry Joints on the S13 Dashboard.
Written by Kevs 200sx edited by Turbo Pete


Safety first

When working on electrics you should always disconnect the battery to avoid earthing delicate electronic components.

You will need

posidrive screwdrivers
soldering iron.

Removal of dash

1. Open door and remove sill plate held down with plastic screws (Try to use the best fitting screwdriver as the screws are easily chewed).
2. Remove the kick panel with fuse cover it has 1 plastic screw in line with the sill plate half way up the door frame, 1 screw at the back beside the accelerator and one screw that is sunk in slightly at the front, then wiggle it out.
3. Using a large pozidrive screwdriver remove all 7 screws from the bottom panel (the one with the bonnet pull). There are 2 at the front left, 1 at rear left, 3 at front right and one at rear right which is now exposed by removing the kick panel with the fuse cover.
4. Remove the two screws holding the bonnet pull on and remove the panel. ( If you prefer you can leave this attached. It just means you won't be able to remove the panel).
5. Pull down the steering wheel height adjuster and leave it at its lowest position.
6. Remove the two screws inserted diagonally upwards securing the top of the dash cover.
7. Unclip the bottom of the dash cover and pull forward slightly.
8. Now either reach in behind and push out all the switches (hazards, demister, pop-ups, fogs, dimmer and rear wash wipe) or just grab them and pull, they won't break.
9. Disconnect them from there wiring by the small clips on the back of each of the connectors. Don't worry, the connectors are idiot proof, i.e. u can't re-connect them to the wrong switch.
The order is
top left- hazards
bottom left- demister
top right- pop-ups
bottom right- fog lights
left middle- wash wipe
right middle- dash dimmer
10. Remove the top cowl of the steering column. It has 4 screws and the last one is only accessible if the steering wheel height adjuster is down. When all screws are removed the top cowl should unclip. You will probably find that you will have to take out the keys from the ignition and catch the small plastic dust cover that covers the barrel.
11. Now remove the dash cover by pulling it down towards the ignition, this will free it from the top of the dash, and it should just wiggle out after that.
12. You are now looking at the dash board unit.
13. Remove the three screws that face you, one at the top and one on either side at the bottom.
14. Now pull the dash out slightly and rotate it around a quarter of a turn by pulling the bottom out a bit and pushing the top back. This should allow u to get into the three connector blocks and unplug them by pressing the tab that sticks out on top of them. The one nearest the centre console tends to be stiffer that the other two and also a bit harder to get to (typical).
15. The dash should now be free but you have to take it out very slowly. If it feels as if it is jamming don't force it because you risk breaking the glass (plastic) front. Just rotate it a bit more and pull it out at the corner nearest the door. You should then be able to slide it out between the dash and the steering wheel.

Resoldering

16. Now you have the dash in your hands you will see the ribbon web that connects everything. Remove this around the rev counter and speedo and this should let u see the back of the chips.
17. Look closely at where the chip is soldered in and you will probably see small circles in the silver of the solder. These are called dry joints and they need to be resoldered.
18. If you are not sure how to do this find someone who is, or take it to a TV and video repair place and they will resolder it for you. It is a five minute job so shouldn't cost much.

Refitting

19. Re-fitting is a reverse of removal with the following points to note.
20. When fitting the dash in a bit of wiggling will be required. It usually takes longer to refit than remove.
21. When fitting the dash cover, locate it into the top first then negotiate the bottom. You will find that the small vents on either side of the steering column are a problem, reach up behind the cover as you push it into place and you will be able to guide them into place.
22. That’s it.

[Kev]

Just took a few wee pics so:-

Here is the sill plate

[Kev]

This is the kick plate.
Ive cicrcled all the screws that need to be removed.
Let me know if this is no use Pete cos i can give u the pics to fart about with, not to hot at this PC stuff.

[Kev]

This is the bottom panel.
note the last screw is obscured cos the kick panel is in the road as the instructions say.

[Kev]

The bonnet pull.

[Kev]

Dash cover with bottom panel removed exposing the clips.

[Kev]

A poor pic of the two screws for the dash cover.

If u really need pics of the covers out the way then give me a shout, but to be honest, once u pull the dash cover out of the way, the three screws for the dash are clearly visible.

Kev

[turbo pete]

Ace man.

Sort them shortly and send them off.
don't know when they will appear on the FAQ section. There is a backlog. My teachers hols allow me plenty of time to keep ahead with technical articles.
Cheers
turbo pete

[Kev]

If these have not already been posted, can u please ammend point 16 as its incorrect.

It should read:-
When u have the dash in ur hands, unclip the front plastic including the dash surround and remove it exposing the clocks themselves, then unscrew the 4 screws holding the speedo in and it will fall out.
Now u will see the chip to be soldered.

Kev

[935Baby]

Final edit???

One more thing. anyone got any pics of the dash. Labelled would be even better.



Removal and Re-soldering of Dry Joints on the S13 Dashboard.
Written by Kevs 200sx edited by Turbo Pete


Safety first

When working on electrics you should always disconnect the battery to avoid earthing delicate electronic components.

You will need

posidrive screwdrivers
soldering iron.

Removal of dash

1. Open door and remove sill plate held down with plastic screws (Try to use the best fitting screwdriver as the screws are easily chewed).
2. Remove the kick panel with fuse cover it has 1 plastic screw in line with the sill plate half way up the door frame, 1 screw at the back beside the accelerator and one screw that is sunk in slightly at the front, then wiggle it out.
3. Using a large pozidrive screwdriver remove all 7 screws from the bottom panel (the one with the bonnet pull). There are 2 at the front left, 1 at rear left, 3 at front right and one at rear right which is now exposed by removing the kick panel with the fuse cover.
4. Remove the two screws holding the bonnet pull on and remove the panel. ( If you prefer you can leave this attached. It just means you won't be able to remove the panel).
5. Pull down the steering wheel height adjuster and leave it at its lowest position.
6. Remove the two screws inserted diagonally upwards securing the top of the dash cover.
7. Unclip the bottom of the dash cover and pull forward slightly.
8. Now either reach in behind and push out all the switches (hazards, demister, pop-ups, fogs, dimmer and rear wash wipe) or just grab them and pull, they won't break.
9. Disconnect them from there wiring by the small clips on the back of each of the connectors. Don't worry, the connectors are idiot proof, i.e. u can't re-connect them to the wrong switch.
The order is
top left- hazards
bottom left- demister
top right- pop-ups
bottom right- fog lights
left middle- wash wipe
right middle- dash dimmer
10. Remove the top cowl of the steering column. It has 4 screws and the last one is only accessible if the steering wheel height adjuster is down. When all screws are removed the top cowl should unclip. You will probably find that you will have to take out the keys from the ignition and catch the small plastic dust cover that covers the barrel.
11. Now remove the dash cover by pulling it down towards the ignition, this will free it from the top of the dash, and it should just wiggle out after that.
12. You are now looking at the dash board unit.
13. Remove the three screws that face you, one at the top and one on either side at the bottom.
14. Now pull the dash out slightly and rotate it around a quarter of a turn by pulling the bottom out a bit and pushing the top back. This should allow u to get into the three connector blocks and unplug them by pressing the tab that sticks out on top of them. The one nearest the centre console tends to be stiffer that the other two and also a bit harder to get to (typical).
15. The dash should now be free but you have to take it out very slowly. If it feels as if it is jamming don't force it because you risk breaking the glass (plastic) front. Just rotate it a bit more and pull it out at the corner nearest the door. You should then be able to slide it out between the dash and the steering wheel.

Resoldering

16. Now you have the dash in your hands you will see the ribbon web that connects everything. Remove this around the rev counter and speedo and this should let u see the back of the chips.
17. Look closely at where the chip is soldered in and you will probably see small circles in the silver of the solder. These are called dry joints and they need to be resoldered.
18. If you are not sure how to do this find someone who is, or take it to a TV and video repair place and they will resolder it for you. It is a five minute job so shouldn't cost much.

Refitting

19. Re-fitting is a reverse of removal with the following points to note.
20. When fitting the dash in a bit of wiggling will be required. It usually takes longer to refit than remove.
21. When fitting the dash cover, locate it into the top first then negotiate the bottom. You will find that the small vents on either side of the steering column are a problem, reach up behind the cover as you push it into place and you will be able to guide them into place.
22. That’s it.

I followed this quide but withou one thing you cant get past part:

11. Now remove the dash cover by pulling it down towards the ignition, this will free it from the top of the dash, and it should just wiggle out after that

Yea its possible, but ist very crazy to get front dash cover past tilt mechanism. But i found that dash cover was inpossible with that lever in place

So all what you need to do is remove 4 screws holding whoe steering wheel column. After that you can put down steering column down, you can suport it with drivers seet by moving to litelly forward (as mine is as back as possible, i am little tall Now you have great access and easily you can remove dash board cover without making fev scratches on them.

So point:

11a. Remove 4 screws holding whole steering wheel column. After that you can put down steering column down, you can suport it with drivers seat by moving it litelly forward (as mine is as back as possible, i am little tall Now you have great access and easily you can remove dash board cover without making fev scratches on them


Removal of dash

1. Open door and remove sill plate held down with plastic screws (Try to use the best fitting screwdriver as the screws are easily chewed).
2. Remove the kick panel with fuse cover it has 1 plastic screw in line with the sill plate half way up the door frame, 1 screw at the back beside the accelerator and one screw that is sunk in slightly at the front, then wiggle it out.
3. Using a large pozidrive screwdriver remove all 7 screws from the bottom panel (the one with the bonnet pull). There are 2 at the front left, 1 at rear left, 3 at front right and one at rear right which is now exposed by removing the kick panel with the fuse cover.
4. Remove the two screws holding the bonnet pull on and remove the panel. ( If you prefer you can leave this attached. It just means you won't be able to remove the panel).
5. Pull down the steering wheel height adjuster and leave it at its lowest position.
6. Remove the two screws inserted diagonally upwards securing the top of the dash cover.
7. Unclip the bottom of the dash cover and pull forward slightly.
8. Now either reach in behind and push out all the switches (hazards, demister, pop-ups, fogs, dimmer and rear wash wipe) or just grab them and pull, they won't break.
9. Disconnect them from there wiring by the small clips on the back of each of the connectors. Don't worry, the connectors are idiot proof, i.e. u can't re-connect them to the wrong switch.
The order is
top left- hazards
bottom left- demister
top right- pop-ups
bottom right- fog lights
left middle- wash wipe
right middle- dash dimmer
10. Remove the top cowl of the steering column. It has 4 screws and the last one is only accessible if the steering wheel height adjuster is down. When all screws are removed the top cowl should unclip. You will probably find that you will have to take out the keys from the ignition and catch the small plastic dust cover that covers the barrel.
11a. Remove 4 screws holding whole steering wheel column. After that you can put down steering column down, you can suport it with drivers seat by moving it litelly forward (as mine is as back as possible, i am little tall Now you have great access and easily you can remove dash board cover without making fev scratches on them
11. Now remove the dash cover by pulling it down towards the ignition, this will free it from the top of the dash, and it should just wiggle out after that.
12. You are now looking at the dash board unit.
13. Remove the three screws that face you, one at the top and one on either side at the bottom.
14. Now pull the dash out slightly and rotate it around a quarter of a turn by pulling the bottom out a bit and pushing the top back. This should allow u to get into the three connector blocks and unplug them by pressing the tab that sticks out on top of them. The one nearest the centre console tends to be stiffer that the other two and also a bit harder to get to (typical).
15. The dash should now be free but you have to take it out very slowly. If it feels as if it is jamming don't force it because you risk breaking the glass (plastic) front. Just rotate it a bit more and pull it out at the corner nearest the door. You should then be able to slide it out between the dash and the steering wheel.

Resoldering

16. Now you have the dash in your hands you will see the ribbon web that connects everything. Remove this around the rev counter and speedo and this should let u see the back of the chips.
17. Look closely at where the chip is soldered in and you will probably see small circles in the silver of the solder. These are called dry joints and they need to be resoldered.
18. If you are not sure how to do this find someone who is, or take it to a TV and video repair place and they will resolder it for you. It is a five minute job so shouldn't cost much.

Refitting

19. Re-fitting is a reverse of removal with the following points to note.
20. When fitting the dash in a bit of wiggling will be required. It usually takes longer to refit than remove.
21. When fitting the dash cover, locate it into the top first then negotiate the bottom. You will find that the small vents on either side of the steering column are a problem, reach up behind the cover as you push it into place and you will be able to guide them into place.
22. That’s it.[/QUOTE]

Picture for point 11a:

[PsYcHeS]

This thread is living proof that using the SEARCH works!