how do i check if these fuses/relays are broke?
its the things in this thing isnt it?
PS you can hear the fuel pump making its normal noise whn you turn the ignition on, so thats working i presume.
will my local garage be able to know if the CAS is broken,
perhaps this is another issue as the bee*R works off these?
you can test the CAS yourself mate.
Just take it off ( mark it before u take it off ) and put the key on ACC. Then spin the cilinderbit of the CAS slowly and you will hear little tics in the bobines if the CAS is working properly
Originally Posted by 200SX_Freak
you can test the CAS yourself mate.
Just take it off ( mark it before u take it off ) and put the key on ACC. Then spin the cilinderbit of the CAS slowly and you will hear little tics in the bobines if the CAS is working properly
Thats certainly not the way to tell if your CAS is working correctly or not.
For starters, the CAS shouldnt really make any tics or noises whatsoever when spun, unless the tics you can hear are from the bearings inside, which would tell you nothing else except its turning.
There are 2 LED's facing 2 light sensitive devices (light sensitive diodes I think).
There is a plate which spins as the CAS turns, which has an inner and outer ring of slots cut into it.
1 ring has 360 slots, the other has 4... 90degree signal and 1degree signal.
You shouldnt hear any noise from this, unless the ring is making contact with the LED's or something, which isnt good.
The manual has the correct testing procedure on page EF & EC - 124
If you have tried listening for the injector's clicking when turning CAS with the ignition on, but are still needing to test the CAS's output, you need to get a meter and remove the CAS from the engine.
Test the green/yellow stripe wire to ground... and the green/black stripe wire to ground for voltage, with the ignition on, and when turning the CAS you should get intermittent voltages of around 5V.
I hope im explaining this ok, as Im not the best at doing so tbh.
And 200sx freak - sorry if you meant something similar to listening for the injectors clicking by spinning CAS, but I dont think its really a way to tell if its working properly, as incorrect voltages from the CAS can make injectors open/close, but can still trigger fault codes...
no hard feelings
Well thats what someone from Nissan told me once.
By turning the CAS you hear the bobines click, if you hear 4 clicks in a spin it is working allright. Or at least thats what he told me
MY CAR WORKS AGAIN!!!
was about to use the ECU self diagnosis, you have to crank the engine for 4 seconds, then get the fault code.
didnt get a chance to get the fault code, cos it started!!! on all cylinders too!
i think the problem was the blue ECU wire block wasnt in all the way
strange tho coz im sure i pushed it in, even when i tried another ECU!
im a bit too scared now to wire the bee*R to it.
perhaps il have a go in the future...
Thanks for your help guys
Did u removed the ECU plug before connecting wires? U sure it is back on correctly?
Some easy to forget stuff...but can sort u out
Am I good or what
lol
i cant understand tho, coz im sure (nerly sure) i didnt even dis-connect the block the first time i tried to attach the Bee*R
i think im guna have another bash at it next week...
This time tho with its own seperate power/ground , and only the yellow & green bee*R wires to the ECU,
cos that was the only time i had the bee*R light up..
you dont know how much you take your car for granted tho
Last edited by Butters; 07-01-2007 at 19:09.
I guess that makes me good too then.
yeah you are good tooI guess that makes me good too then.
im just stupid
gotta work with its seperate power source i reckon.
PS when is the Bee*R red light supposed to flash/light up?
when u start the car & when it hits the required rev o bang?
* ITS WORKING *
the correct way:
yellow Bee*R goes to the green wire on the ECU with the yellow line.
green Bee*R goes to the green wire on the ECU with the black line (next one down )
black Bee*R goes to earth of car (can use one the CD player or make one by the ECU somewhere)
red Bee*R goes to 12+ positive (again the CD player one is fine)
white Bee*R goes to the handbrake
hooray!
Are the yellow and green the right way round in the guide I posted? I will edit my post in the S14 tech sticky to make things right
i dont want to seem stupid or stating the blatently obvious but what is a bee*R LOL
It's an add on rev limiter that cuts the ignition spark instead of the fuel. That equals large flames and bangs, but in the case of the SR20 broekn rockers as well
aaaaaaah, its ok i own the better engine
i used to have one of these then on my nova, worked a peach and saved my engine a few times
edit, why is one of these needed may i ask when the standard ecu has a limmeter anyway
aaaaaaah, its ok i own the better engine
It isn't really needed, I fitted mine for the full chav effect
heres one i made, for S13/CA18DET. feel free to use it wherever... (note the green & yellow are different way roundto the driftworks diagram)Are the yellow and green the right way round in the guide I posted? I will edit my post in the S14 tech sticky to make things right
green is for the CRANK/CAM CAS or Distributor signal
yellow to the ignitor/tachometer signal
Last edited by Butters; 10-02-2007 at 10:19.
yes its wrong!
heres one i made, for S13/CA18DET. feel free to use it wherever...
I cant see the pic, but I will edit my post to correct it
EDIT: I can see it now
you maybe able to use the power & earth off the ECU, but i think its easier/safer to have its own seperate power & earththe power and earth should be seperate in the S13
Okay, I did think it should be okay except when using a PowerFC. Then you have to use a seprate earth to make it workyou maybe able to use the power & earth off the ECU, but i think its easier/safer to have its own seperate power & earth
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