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Thread: Fitting guide for Traction Control (s14)

  1. #1
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    Fitting guide for Traction Control (s14)

    I finally got round to putting the traction control in. Only took 4 hours , and only had the 3 ABS wires wrong at the first attempt.

    This guide is based on installing in a s14.

    edit: I've added s14a wiring specifics (taken from Bren's thread) and the s14a supplementary manual. I haven't tested the 14a stuff.

    WARNING.... YOU NEED A LAPTOP to configure the TC
    .................................................. ...........................
    Disconnect the battery.


    The contents of the box (check it's all there)


    Take off the sill tread plate and the passenger footwell trim to reveal the ECU, unclip the wiring cover.


    Lots of wires , the injector pulse wires are at the bottom.
    The tacho wire is the Blue & Black one just below the center.
    The 12v power is near the top.


    101 - Injector 1 - White & Black
    103 - Injector 2 - Yellow & Black
    110 - Injector 3 - Green & Black
    112 - Injector 4 - Blue & Black

    s14:
    7 - Revs / Tacho - Blue & Black
    59 - 12v (ignition switched) - Black & White

    (edit, added s14a ECU diagram)

    s14a:
    2 - Revs / Tacho - Blue & Black
    47 - 12v (ignition switched) - Black & White



    Shows where I attached the TC earth wire


    Remove the plastic cover from around the bottom of the ECU wires, and cut the wires one by one attaching the plug connectors (make sure you put all male connectors on one side and all female connectors on the other).
    I crimped and soldered these, just to be sure they wouldn't come out.


    I also put the tacho and power wire into the supplied plug, but you need to loop round wires on the TC wiring harness...


    Once you've got the ECU wires into their plugs (take time to make sure they match both each other and the TC harness), connect them together and make sure the engine still starts. (remember to reconnect the battery and turn off the immobiliser )


    If the engine starts then great.!! Disconnect the battery again and plug the TC harness in. (the yellow and pink wires are the loops mentioned earlier)


    Now run the ABS wires back along the sills.


    Take out the rear seats and parcel shelf. Then carefully pull off the rear interior side trim. Run the ABS wires along the same route as the rest of the wiring loom.


    The ABS unit is in the boot on the left.


    The top plug is the one you want, there is a release tab on the back of the plug, also remove the wires from the plastic bracket (brown thing on the left) by cutting the tape, this gives you much more room to work with.


    The pins for s14 are
    15 - Rear Wheels - Blue
    13 - Front Right - White
    17 - Front Left - Blue

    The pins for s14a are
    7 - Rear Wheels - Yellow
    8 - Front - Red
    9 - Front - White


    s14:
    Connect pin 15 to Green and Yellow on the TC
    Connect pin 13 to Blue on the TC
    Connect pin 17 to Red on the TC

    s14a:
    Connect pin 7 to Green and Yellow on the TC
    Connect pin 9 to Blue on the TC
    Connect pin 8 to Red on the TC

    I didn't connect the shielding to anything, just make sure it is covered up.


    Make the wires neat again.


    Now position the TC ECU (I put mine on the angled bit at the front of the passenger footwell under the carpet) and connect the wiring harness and laptop connection / diagnosic LED.

    Run the wire to where you will mount the adjustment box and connect their wires.

    Put everything else back together and reconnect the battery, turn the ignition on.

    Plug a laptop in to the serial connector, run the TC software.

    Select your com port
    Read data from the TC ( 3rd icon from the left under the menu)

    Make the following changes in the wheels section:
    -Select the front wheels as reference
    -Select the rear wheels as driven
    (edit)
    -Set FR to CH1
    -Set FL to CH2
    -Set RL to CH3
    -Set RR to CH4
    (end edit)
    -Set your tyre sizes (click on the wheel icons)
    -Set the driven 'Pulses per revolution' to 74
    -Set the reference 'Pulses per revolution' to 40

    Make the following changes to the Configuration section:
    -Set the number of cylinders to 4

    Write the settings to the TC (4th icon from the left under the menu)

    Save the settings into a file.(2nd icon from the left under the menu)

    Start the engine.

    In the test section click send, this should make the engine missfire for a brief period.

    In the Real Time section, click 'start real time' (5th icon from the left under the menu) and go for a drive. if there are numbers in all the boxes and they change as you are driving... Well done, you now have TC in your car.

    I had to change the settings in the slip section of the software (raised defaults by 3%) to stop the TC cutting in on roundabouts at low speed, and am still fiddling with the launch settings...

    (edit) You can download my setup file here

    Hope this was useful.... GOOD LUCK..!!!

    John
    Last edited by john200; 02-01-2004 at 01:38.

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    Well done mate, what a nice how-to


    I never knew S14 have their abs-ecu in the boot...

    Daniel

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    Guest Dave_S's Avatar
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    WOW!!!

    That is a NICE guide, well done mate

    AND it's on the right coloured car

    EDIT: I think this should be a sticky

    Dave

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    Guest m4tt_c's Avatar
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    good write up from what i can see from what you said the s14a only differs by the tacho comes of pin 2 instead of 7.

    also i had to put weird numbers in for the pulses for each wheel, but it might have something to do with my 245/40/18 tyres.

    works well when properly set up doesnt it, took mine out today for a test, i like the way you can set the %slip when going into a roundabout

    i havent had a go at the launch control part that'll be next

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    Guest dan e's Avatar
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    Very nice guide.

    I've got no excuse not to try and fit this myself now.

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    Guest Creasey's Avatar
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    Sweet :

    It's this sort of thing that makes group buys worth the hassle ( ), not just the cost saving.

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    HUGE thanks for organising the group buy Creasey top bit of kit.

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    Guest Rajmo's Avatar
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    Nice one mate Might have a go at fitting mine now (S14a)


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    I've added s14a wiring to the guide now from Bren's ABS wiring thread and m4tt_c's comments.

    Thanks for the comments

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    Guest STiMPY's Avatar
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    After PMing John for his permission to post this, here it is: I've converted his guide to a PDF with S14a info at the end (ECU and ABS pinouts). I'm going to ask Bren if there's anything he'd like to add, anyone else feel free to contribute and I'll update it. Get it here: http://www.stimpy.dsl.pipex.com/S14TCFitting.PDF

    Comments?

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    Originally posted by STiMPY
    Comments?

    Mmmmh nice mate, I love .pdfs

    Daniel

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    Just about to fit mine.... And I'm a bit confused about the 'loop' of the pink and yellow wires between the male and female connectors attached to the TC side of the loom

    Did you cut the power and Tacho wires to the ECU, and route them through the TC wiring???? This is the only thing I can think of

    Cheers

    Tim

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    That's about right...

    I cut the power and tacho wired and put them in the male and female connectors along with the injector wires.

    Then on the traction control harness I put the power feed and tacho feed in one of the joining connectors, and looped the pink and yellow wires to meet up with the car's harness connector on the other TC connector.

    You don't need to do this, but I make it easier to disconnect the TC for fault diagnosis / complete removal.

    Hope that helps

    John

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    For the power and tacho wires, strip back a bit of the insulation from the ecu wires, then wrap the wires that you want to connect around the exposed copper. Then solder and insulate. You should solder all the connections as I used scotchlocks to connect the ABS wires and the RLTC did not receive a stable signal.

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    Damnit... I don't think I'm getting any power out of pin 47. Any ideas?

    I've put a multimeter on it (and the other probe to ground), and no voltage at all.... Picks up the voltage off my torch battery when I try that though

    EDIT: Ooops, I'd got 2 pins in a mulit block in the rong places! No suprise really! And if I'd had my mulit-meter on 20v instead of 2v it would have given me the right reading!
    Last edited by JackaL; 29-01-2004 at 20:16.

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    Guest Cluck's Avatar
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    This is going to sound really dumb, but....

    I can make sense of all the injector wires and the loopback principle, but where did you wire the thick red 12V cable into? It's really not clear on the pictures and you don't mention it anywhere.

    Sorry for being so stupid, but I need to be clear before I approach this (well, before my brother does 'cos he's better with soldering and crimping )

    Thanks to the sh!tty weather here in North Essex, I've got to postpone this until next weekend. And god dammit, there's bad weather on the way this week and it would have been so nice to have the TC fitted before then, but hey ho.

    Nice guide though.

  17. #17
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    The thick 12V cable links with pin 47 on the ECU (for s14a). I've called it power cable in previous posts.
    You can either solder directly onto the wire or add it to the supplied connectors (as previously described).

    Hope that helps, good luck

  18. #18
    Guest Cluck's Avatar
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    Ta!

    And I don't need luck right now, I need fine weather . Goddamn rain

  19. #19
    Guest Cluck's Avatar
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    Did you all use the blocks that were supplied by Racelogic?

    I can't get the feckers to join without pushing the wires back up and out

    So, I've decided to abandon those blocks and simply use the connecting metal pieces and connect those together with a dab of solder and lots of insulting tape

    Having already broken one of the connectors just trying to get the things to connect, I don't want to break any more and can't be @rsed with the hassle.

    Or was it just me?

    That and the poxy English weather yesterday really p!ssed me off - have you noticed

  20. #20
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    The connector blocks that RL supplied can be a sod to install, you have to make sure that the crimp is really tight around the wire, and there should be a 'click' as you push the pin into the plastic block.

    So long as you have good soldered joints you'll be fine, it'll just be harder, and messier to remove the TC if you ever need to...

    Tell me about the weather... it's 1am and i've just finished putting my turbo back in.. I'm sure the feeling in my fingers will come back one day

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