Blaggers Guide to S13 Modification
It's 2 1/2 years since I started this thread and it's probably time for an update. I'm aiming for around 350bhp and by mid-August 2006 will have the following fitted. Finger's crossed it'll achieve my aim:
1. Engine and Transmission
APT Stage 2 Engine (uprated pistons and rods) 1.8ltr
Exedy Paddle Clutch
Uprated engine/gearbox mounts
Apexi Filter plus fitting kit
FMIC plus fitting kit
444cc fuel injectors
Turbo braided oil and water feeds
Blitz DSBC boost controller
Jez Stage 3 chip c/w 6500/7200rpm limits
Apexi SAFC-II Air Flow Controller
Bosch high flow fuel pump
High flow fuel filter
FSE Powerboost valve/fuel pressure regulator
Apex 3" Stainless cat-back exhaust system + bung + hangers
B&M Short Shift Gearstick
2. Suspension and Steering
Speciality Products EZ cam 81250 front camber adjusting bolts
Momo tornado steering wheel
4 x KYB AGX adjustable shock absorbers
Chassis Dynamics Spring Kit (4)
Whiteline Anti Roll bars front & rear
Rear subframe full bush set
Uprated front brake discs + caliper spacer
S14 four piston brake calipers (front)
Z32 master cylinder
Braided brake hoses front & rear
Uprated front pads
DOT 5.1 brake fluid
4. Body and Chassis
5. Wheels and Tyres
4 x TSW Imola 7.5/17 Alloys
Locking wheel nuts
4 x Goodyear Eagle F1's 215/45ZR17
Autometer 4701 Carbon Fiber 20psi Boost Gauge
Autometer 4727 Carbon Fiber Electric Oil Pressure Gauge
Autometer 4748 Carbon Fiber Electric Oil Temperature Gauge
Oil filter sender sandwich plate
Triple A-pillar carbon gauge pod
Ring driving lamps
Oddbins (I wish!)
about time for an update....
If you want 275bhp, here's what i did:
TSW Imola 7.5/17
Goodyear Eagle F1s 215/45ZR17
Speciality Products EZ cam 81250 front camber adjusting bolts
Momo Tornado Steering Wheel
Clarion CD DRB4575R
Autometer 4701 Carbon Fiber Ultra-Lite 20psi Boost Gauge
K&N 75i Filter + cold air feed
Garett T28 Turbo
Dawes device 16psi approx
Jez stage-2 chip 4000/7200rpm limits 15 degrees BTDC
Bosch Fuel Pump
SAAB FMIC + blue Samco hoses
NGK BCPR7ES spark plugs
Bailey Dump Valve
Powerflow 2 ½” turbo back system with 5” Jap Box
Brembo 280mm 10 groove front discs + EBC Redstuff fast road pads
Dot 5.1 brake fluid
Castrol GTX Magnatec 10/40
LUK clutch kit
INSANE rear window sticker
The following list contains collected opinions on the best modifications for the S13. No guarantees given and we may well be wrong but you are welcome to try at your own risk. If you have any suggestions or different experience, please post below and we’ll add to this list. Under each category, we’ve listed the modification, what it does, our opinion, guideline price and a rating where 1=avoid and 5=the mutts:
- engines are handy, get one! (5/5)
- NGK BCPR7ES spark plugs are needed for higher boost and work fine if you are around 200-270bhp (5/5)
- NGK BCR8ES spark plugs are needed for even higher boost and work fine if you are around 270-300+bhp (5/5)
- Fit electric fans intead of the viscous jobbie (£minimal from scrappy) but perhaps only 3-4bhp gain (2/5)
- old s13 engine you will be better using a thicker oil, so oils like Mobil 1 motorsport 15W50 or castrol RS 10W60 may be better, allthough a lot more expensive. If your engine's newly rebuilt, can probably use a thinner oil (5/5)
- Castrol GTX Magnatec 10/40 is cheap £15/5ltr and seems to work fine if you change every 3000miles or 6 months (3/5)
- Vauxhall Fully Synthetic 5W40 £13/5ltr is very cheap but most people believe this is too thin for an sx as nissan recommend 10 upwards (2/5)
- Fuel Filter 300ZX one good for lots of BHP £11 nissan, oil filter champion comes out very highly in all the tests I think it is C109
- Air con - Bin it. It always runs out and it saps power. However it does keep you cool and turns itself off on full boost. Your choice (2/5)
- Our cars dont take modern refirgerant and you need "drop in gas" R12 I think which isnt as efficient. Should get a top up for £60-75.
- LUK clutch kit is cheap £110 and proven for 260-280bhp (4/5)
- AP Paddle friction plate & Nissan cover good for 300bhp (4/5)
- AP friction plate & Nismo cover good for well over 300bhp (5/5)
- Fit an LSD from a post facelift if your pre-facelift (or early facelift) S13 doesn't have one. S14 one will fit. S14 gearbox will also fit and has longer ratios (4/5)
- EP80-90 standard stuff and does the job if you change it when you should (4/5)
- Bosch Fuel Pump £90 is needed for any increased boost but some have been known to stop working (2/5)
- Walbro fuel pump is a better alternative, is an almost straight swap for the standard pump, better reliability and can be had for £60+ with a bit of searching (4/5)
- Can also use QX/Maxima pump we think, or a zed fuel pump can provide fueling for upto 600bhp
- Get 444cc injectors from Skyline for around 300bhp (550's for more) but ECU needs remapping, a bigger AFM is needed when you start going over 300bhp (5/5)
- 300zed filter fits in place of the normal filter, although im running 290 horses with no problems on standard filter, so i dont see it as needed 1/5
- Jez stage-2 chip £120-140 does exactly what it says on the tin and is good for 260-300bhp (5/5)
- Bodgesport stage 1 £tbc in the same league as the Jez II (5/5)
- Bren also supplies chips (5/5)
- SAAB FMIC is cheap £100 inc Samcos, better than the original, which is constrictive, and does the job up to 300bhp (2/5)
- Volvo FMIC as Saab above, but better flowing for more power, however does not sit as neatly as the Saab (3/5)
- Apex Custom FMIC £500 "The daddy" (6/5)
- Not much wrong with the Norris Designs FMIC if you can find one cheap 2nd hand. Same goes for 'branded' FMIC's (HKS etc.) (5/5)
- DIY intercooler water spray (2/5)
- K&N 75i Filter £75 does the job of letting air in faster (4/5)
- DIY cold air feed modification £5-10 (e.g. box in the air filter and take cold air from the old WMIC hole) keeps inlet temperatures down and is cheap (5/5)
- Bailey Dump Valve £75 stops damaging wastegate chatter and makes that all important woosh sound (4/5)
- Drill the standard airbox and fit a good panel filter (e.g. K&N). At the least you can remove the crappy S pipe thingy for nicer noise.
- Fit AFM from a Z32 300zx for powerd >300bhp but you'll need to remap your ECU and get bigger injectors. Where does it all end?!(5/5)
- T3 Sierra Cosworth 4x4 cost about £200 for a reconned unit, complex to fit but a standard unit is good for 300bhp (5/5)
- T28 Turbo off the S14 is cheap second hand £200-250, relatively easy to fit if you are handy and is good for 290bhp at 15psi with no noticeable lag. Get the air intake flange from p.nicholas or elsewhere (5/5)
- T25H may be a straight swap for standard and is good for 265bhp at 18psi but it is expensive £650 and runs out of puff over 5500rpm and some have been known to fail early (2/5)
- Braided oil feeds are a MUST if you replace the turbo since the original pipe does not supply enough oil to the turbo (5/5)
- T28H from a GTi-R is also an almost straight swap and is bigger than the T28 that comes from with the S14. You may be lucky enough to get one for similar money. T28H's are a bit stronget than straight T28's but suffer more lag (6/5)
Boost Controllers (please note any boost upping, will lessen the life of your turbo)
- Dawes devices are cheap £35-40, work well and are easy to fit, although it’s hood up to adjust (4/5)
- Adjustable actuators are reasonably priced £75 but can be difficult to fit and adjust (2/5)
- Bleed valves may be cheap £35-40 but they can cause damaging pressure spices (1/5)
- Gated Bleed valves are a more pricey version of normal bleed valves. They claim no boost spikes and less turbo lag, a reasonable alternative for the dawes but pricey at £40-70, can be picked up secondhand for £30. The turbosmart gated bleed valve is the most popular on 200sx, but has been known to promote spiking. (3/5)
- FBU or free boost upgrade can be done for free by putting washers behind the actuator to make it tighter. Around 15psi is max boost on std turbo/ECU because that's when the boost cut comes in (3/5)
- HKS turbo timer type 1 is really funky got loads of features has a shift light if u can be arsed to set it, does 0-100kph , 0-150kph and a few others does quatermile times and a couple of other timings over particular distances. has an auto cool down time where goes by ur air/fuel mixture reading(i think) to judge how long to run ur car after switch off, between 0-5mins or u can set manually from 30 secs upto 10 mins (4/5)
- Electronic boost controllers are much better at controling boost than the usual manual methods, but their price tags generally reflect that.
The Greddy Profec B is the contoller of the moment and will set u back £200-400 (4/5)
- S13's do not need a CAT fitted to pass MOT!!
- Powerflow 2 ½” bore turbo back system with 5” Jap Box looks great, costs £350-400 doesn’t rust but could be a bit loud for some, also build quality is VERY variable so MAKE SURE you see examples of previous work from your fitter (4/5)
- Mongoose £300 turbo back 2+1/4" system stainless throughout and with lifetime warranty, twin 3" round pipes. louder and a good deal more freeflowing than standard and good for up to 330bhp (4/5)
- Apex 3" bore straight through exhaust is the biggest of the bunch, very very well made, and easiest exhaust ive ever fitted, if u want loud, buy this one as the only box it has is the back box (~£450)(was too loud for me, prefer the mongoose)
- Speciality Products EZ cam 81250 front camber adjusting bolts have to be properly set up with 4-wheel alignment but are cheap £30 and stop front tyre inside edge wear (4/5)
- Kyb dampers, £2-300 (set) 30% uprated over standard a good upgrade (3/5)
- kyb AGX's £3-400 fully adjustable dampers to allow u variable settings for track days etc, a major differance to the cars handling (4/5)
- Subframe bushes are prone to failure (esp rear). Replace them or fit Pineapple rings to protect them (4/5)
- Lowering springs are relatively cheap and sharpen up the handling and stop S13's looking like Frontera's (4/5)
- HKS top mounts replace the rubber top mounts as standard on the top of the struts, they sharpen up the handling, making the ride a little harsher, but allowing u to alter the camber to suit urself. (4/5)
- Red stuff front pads £65 work reasonably well on standard discs for road use but only last 3 laps before fading on a track day (2/5)
- Green stuff fade badly and don’t last long (1/5)
- Brembo 280mm 10 groove front discs £110 are better than standard for road use but still only last 3 laps on a track day (2/5)
- Dot 5.1 brake fluid might help a bit (2/5)
- Porterfields (leave lots of dust), Ferodo DS2500, Mintex, etc are'nt too bad we hear, but basically, 280mm discs dont have the guts, so upgrade................
- S14/300zx calipers £1-200 second hand, 4pot calipers as apposed to 1pot calipers as standard, a very good upgrade, although many find the extra pedal travel uncomfortable (4/5)
- S14/300zx master cylinder £20-40 used to combat the extra pedal travel after the above calipers are fitted (4/5)
- E36 M3 315mm front brake discs and Caliper mounting brackets shouldn't cost more than £150, this is used with 300ZX calipers (5/5)
- For the pre facelifts with 257mm disks the red.dot grooved disks and pads are the mutts hairy pair, definite good suicidal child avoidance capabilities (3/5)
- braided brake pipes help improve feel (3/4)
- Goodyear Eagle F1s 215/45ZR17 GDSD2 are good if you can get them cheap £80 (4/5) GD03s have replaced them
- Toyo Proxis TS1's Are comparible with the eagle f1's and usually a bit cheaper with there only downside being faster wear (4/5)
- Falken Azenis Sports ara available in US. They dont exactly last long (< 10k miles) but at $74 each they're well worth it. Apparently you can hardly spin the tries at all (4/5)
- For snowy grip use 195/65 Vredestein Snowtrac 2 tyres (4/5)
- TSW Imola 7.5x17 look great (4/5)
- Fox Racing 6s look smart (3/5)
- 18's fit but not sure about 19's (5/5)
- Fit any decent boost gauge (i.e. not Tim) before you fiddle with the boost or you'll probably blow your turbo/car up (5/5)
- Autometer 4701 Carbon Fiber Ultra-Lite 20psi Boost Gauge £50-60 is accurate and looks nice. Fit on A pillar using pod thingy (£15-20) from Bren, Demon Tweeks or elsewhere, or a DIN panel below the CD player (4/5)
- Oil pressure is a very handy guage to have, and i would consider this most important after a boost guage. U never need to check the dipstick because the oil pressure is what matters, it is also very good for warning of problems such as big ends /mains going, as this is usually accompanied by low oil pressure.(6/5)
- Oil temperature is a good guage to have if u have a jap spec replacement engine with no oil cooler, as these tend to heat the oil quicker, 100mph can see the oil boil.They are also very usefull for trackdays for the same reason, and overall they give u a good indecation of when the engine is hot enough to be thrashed, as oil heats up a good bit slower than water.(4/5)
- Water temp guages are used by some as the stock water temp guage is know to be rather poor, but i personally have never had any problems with it.(2/5)
- EGT Exhaust Gas Temperature guages are very good guages to have if u plan on running a tuned beast or upping boost, as they give a good indication of when the internal engine heat is getting to a critical level, and also give u a limited idea of ur air/fuel ratio.(4/5)
- Air/fuel guages will give u an idea of ur air/fuel ratio when running, but most people that have these find them of very limited use.(3/5)
- Voltage/ampage guages, these are of limited value in comparison with the rest. Voltage guage will give u a good idea of how much voltage is running through the car, but realistically if ur voltage drops, the battery light will come on anyway.
Amperage gauge is generally the same sort of thing, except measuring current instead of voltage.
Both will be of very limited use unless u are running, for instance, alot of extra electrical devices.(1/5)
- Momo Tornado Steering Wheel £110 are cool and you can get one for your PC too £70 (4/5)
- INSANE rear window sticker, well you’d be mad not to get one! (5/5)
- Reducing the weight of your vehicle, which is 1350kg, helps bhp per tonne figure (e.g. remove spare wheel, all lining from boot and kick out any passengers) and is free (5/5)
- Metal steering bush from p.nicholas (and maybe some other people, who knows) will tighten up the response from the helm nicely (3/5)
- Lindemans £5.49 Bin 65 Chardonnay 2001 is a good daily Chardonnay (3/5)
- Torres £5.79 Vina Esmeralda 2002 has Complex flavours (4/5)
- Marlborough £6.49 Sauvignon Blanc 2002 is a nice change from Chardonnay even though it smells like cat's pee! (4/5)
Tesco's booze selection
- Strongbow 18 cans £10 good daily drink, goes well with ciggies
- kronenbourg - thinking mans Stella
- Russian Standard vodka - tastes o.k. gets you ratted.
Last edited by Paul_S13; 10-07-2008 at 00:47.
Reason: I don't like wine!
even if you've lowered your car ?
Originally posted by Jurgen
19 inchers fit
mine was lowered 60 mm all round
might want to add that the 300zx fuel filter fits fine in the standard fuel filter clip
If you have the 300zx brakes axis ultima pads are the dogs danglies with them, and cheap if you get them from concept z performance in america!
Quick question from scanning your signature - I see you have 300ZX calipers and Kosei Sniper wheels - did these clear the calipers OK without spacers? If so by how much and what size wheels including width and offset? I ask because my current wheels don't clear those calipers (s14a) by a long shot, only difference is I have 310mm race rotors to fit with them.
Atrull: what gain does a 300ZX fuelfilter give?
Originally Posted by ATrull
immeasurable performance gains!!!!1
Originally Posted by Vronsky
(By which I mean, I do not know, all I know is that it is a less restrictive fuel filter)
I'll test it vs a standard 200sx one on an RR one day if it isn't too costly
On the Intercooler front!
You can use a GTR 33/33/34 intercooler, but agro to fit and you have to add on the pipework costs!
Yuu might be able to scrounge some old recirc valves from a 300zx and put them on, if you don't want the dump valve noise!
300zx 76.5 thermostat runs it slightly cooler, if you want it that cool!
You might be able to scrounge an old skyline FPR but I am not sure if this runs at a higher pressure or not!
An in/out car temp gizmo can be adapted to give charge temp!
Another little one for 550cc injectors, go for used, RX7 gen II, turbo 1, jap import, primary injectors, you will need two sets of, good luck finding em!!
i am left with just a steering wheel and a bucket seat for interior, battery moved to back and small fuel cell, must have lost 100kgs, black soundproofing goo is so far weighing at 15kgs with some still to go, weight removal is the way to go, who needs a dash anyway, also have welded up sunroof should be much less flex but will let you know when back on the road!! loads to do yet!!
You will have to excuse me if I ask dim questions. The 444cc injectors from a skyline are a direct replacement (straight swap)? Which skyline?
any of the GTRs (r32,r33,r34)
Originally Posted by Holy CJ
what about Iveco Turbo Daily Intercooler
it is a nice replacement
(it has plastic ends, that may be a -)
from what Volvo it is the intercooler u mentioned about?
Can we have some info on Cam choices?
Last edited by pukkaSILVIA; 25-12-2005 at 18:46.
Originally Posted by ByReaL
I remember reading somehwere that lorry diesel intercoolers are desiged differently and not the most desirable intercooler to choose, but I am just giving you second hand information, couldn't tell you how accurate that is!
Bits and pieces
Mongoose now do an exaust with a 5inch tail (proper jap) and Tein with EDFC is superb
i am interested in knowing this also what spec of volvo?
Originally Posted by ByReaL