Alignment set up?

[CBomb]

New bits are going on the car next month, any advice for what set up to go for?

I'm not going for mad camber, I like a fairly neutral set up (mostly for cost reasons and even tyre wear) but obviously I'll be dealing a bit in now I have the option.

[balangproject]

I run -3 deg both front and rear, but its a track car, and it handles quite well. Very neutral. But it depends on how much youve lowered it; ive lowered it quite a bit (maybe 40-50mm) and i run highish camber as I loose camber in corners due to my low roll centre at the front, rear is ok should probably run -2 deg.
That being said, if i do long distances there is quite a lot of camber wear so if its a street car i wouldnt go above 2 deg.

Hope that helps you at all.

[Actual_Ben_Taylor]

Whiteline settings are a good start:

Touring

Front
Camber = -1.0 to -1.5
Caster = P+7.5/D+7.0
Toe = 0.0

Rear
Camber = -1.0 to -1.25
Toe = 0.8 to 1.2 toe-in

Sport

Front
Camber = -1.5 to -2.0
Caster = P+7.5/D+7.0
Toe = 0.0

Rear
Camber = -1.25 to -2.0
Toe = 0.5 to 1.2 toe-in

Race

Front
Camber = -2.5<
Caster = P+7.5/D+7.0
Toe = 0.0 to 1.0 toe-out

Rear
Camber = -2.0<
Toe = 0.5 to 1.5 toe-in

[Chriscooke]

This is what I run, turn in was pretty positive but I've git used to it and it seems pretty decent.

[CBomb]

Cheers lads, I know it's a very personal thing. I can always get it tweaked once I've done a few track days and got a feel for it!

[pdh 14a]

Yep Chris's are good,but would stick to -2 front camber max unless you have to cram some massive wheels under

[CBomb]

I'm still running the R34 GTRs bud, they're only 9J 18s on 30/265 rear and 35/245 front

[pdh 14a]

I'm still running the R34 GTRs bud, they're only 9J 18s on 30/265 rear and 35/245 front

"Only" lol

[Alec]

Ok so I'm going to KAP Tuning on Thursday to have my geometry set.

So these are the Whiteline settings. I was thinking of going for "Sport Settings". It's a toy for the road and doesn't go on the track. The car has adjustable arms all round apart from standard lower arms. It has adjustable top mounts. What the Whiteline table is missing is rear castor. What should I ask them to set this to?

Thanks for looking.


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[Chriscooke]

Rear castor isn't adjustable iirc.

[Alec]

That would make more sense - thanks.


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[immy21]

It's not really caster, but what you are getting at is known on here as traction link, the third adjustable arm.
Lengthen it to reduce camber and toe changes upon suspension movement on moderately lowered car. Main difference I felt from stock length to extended was reducing the excessive over steer upon brake and turn in on higher speed track stuff. In theory it should also rear bump steer but I can't say that was ever an issue for me.
The technically correct way to do it is lengthen the traction arm the same amount as camber arm then use eccentric to do final adjustments for camber but no one will do it that way.
So simple way, lengthen it from 212mm bolt center to bolt center to about 222mm, can go further but will push your wheel further rear in the arch.

I suggest don't be scared of some toe out on the front, it gives a real nice darty feel on initial input of the steering wheel but still perfectly stable, even at speed.

[JuicyCarbonFX]

Hey I'm also running those wheels, nice to know I can get 265' s on the rear
Did you have to roll the arches?
Thank you

[Alec]

Went in for the setup earlier. The guy said he'd be more than happy to set the geometry as the car was but, ideally the car would be sitting lower at the front. They could have changed the ride height for me, but at a (big) extra cost. So I opted to take the car home and drop the front coil overs by 28mm. I'll let the car settle for a couple of days and then book it back in. With the new bushes and ball joints I've just fitted, the car already feels tighter and more confidence inspiring so looking forward to seeing how much difference the alignment service makes.


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