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Thread: crash repair - help & info.

  1. #41
    Can't tell the difference cleanhands's Avatar
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    Mine was a very snug fit, knocked into place using a rubber mallet. Then I put a nut and bolt on either side where the bumper iron fits (2nd pic, post 35). It still had the gap which is more noticeable on the back side. Drilled 9 holes either side to plug weld onto chassis rails.

  2. #42
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    I'll get some pics up of mine tomorrow. Personally, I wouldn't tweak the chassis leg but would adjust the front panel
    Pete


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  3. #43
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Distance between chassis legs





    Hope that helps
    Pete


    SXOC Member Number : 317

  4. #44
    Member alanjuggler's Avatar
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    cheers chaps those pics do help Pete

    I didn't realise how much the panel pinches in at the spot welds with still a fair amount of gap between the other bits, so that would account for most of it, I think my chassis legs at the ends are around 705-710mm apart from memory. I'll have to check that again.

    I tried fitting the new crash bar yesterday and that fairly tightly slid over, similar to the original, so I don't think the legs have moved. bolting the crash bar on fully does seem to have changed it and tightened it up.

    the m10 fine bolts have arrived to modify / fix the nismo power brace with, so will be doing that later today, assuming the snow has gone
    white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
    white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.

    current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.

  5. #45
    Guest scottdawg's Avatar
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    Shit man. I was just checking to see how the car was going

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