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Thread: Suspension brain fart

  1. #21
    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny Wilkinson View Post
    I couldn't see the picture at work.

    You've got the lower assembly wound up tight against the locking collars which are wound up against the springs and you have about 6 inches of shock poking out of the bottom of the lower assembly.

    To give you some idea, I had only one inch of shock screwed into lower assembly (that's screwed in NOT below the bottom but screwed in from the top) on mine and it lowered it by 5mm. The way you have it it will lower it by about 200mm

    If you attach it like that, the wheels won't touch the feckin' floor. lol.

    Wind the lower assembly down the strut thread until you have the end of the strut level with the bottom of the lower assembly and go up or down from there.
    Orrrrrr,,,,, its going to be slammed ,, your right I did spot it was on max lows, but was rambling on about the upper bolt hole

  2. #22
    Guest Tanuki's Avatar
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    Haha, yea I wasn't planning on keeping it that way! I would never make it over the speed bumps on my estate!

  3. #23
    Guest Zornyan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tanuki View Post
    Haha, yea I wasn't planning on keeping it that way! I would never make it over the speed bumps on my estate!
    Just remember this important fact about going that low mate....













    Bitches be trippin'

  4. #24
    Guest Tanuki's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zornyan View Post
    Just remember this important fact about going that low mate....













    Bitches be trippin'
    Over the speed bumps perhaps

  5. #25
    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    The speedbumps on my estate (or huge brick covered table tops) have been a pain for me and lowered cars for the last 18 years
    I used to have to measure on the worst one a 5mm gap between chassis rail and said motocross jump
    I gave up on the super slammed look as rolling over them at less than 5 mph gets boring very fast

    I think this quite fitting though https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...26d8597bad3d08

  6. #26
    Guest Tanuki's Avatar
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    Yea, I hear you Andy. Actually the ones at work are worst, I feel like a chump crunching over them in the morning and I don't even have the coilies on yet...I'm concerned I might 'beach' myself!
    Re the oversize hole in the bracket, would these camber bolts do the trick? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eibach-Fro...-/270611882757

  7. #27
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    The rear has eccentric camber bolts anyway but they only work for moderate lowering (like 25mm drop) before they run out of adjustment. For more you really need adjustable arms.

    EDIT: Just clicked the link and saw they are front camber bolts.
    Last edited by Jonny Wilkinson; 14-10-2014 at 15:32.

  8. #28
    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    I don't think them camber adjust bolts will really help you there mate as the upper bracket hole is the sort of issue

    If in theory you can't go super lows due to speed bumps at work , you won't really need any more camber adjust
    as the top mount offers a fair bit of adjustment on its own for sensible/usable lowering
    and running lots of camber on a daily road car will wear the inner edge of the tyre's rapidly
    different if its belting round a track were you need ultimate grip

  9. #29
    Guest Tanuki's Avatar
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    Fair play Andy, I welding I will go then.
    Quote Originally Posted by ANDY black s13 View Post
    I don't think them camber adjust bolts will really help you there mate as the upper bracket hole is the sort of issue

    If in theory you can't go super lows due to speed bumps at work , you won't really need any more camber adjust
    as the top mount offers a fair bit of adjustment on its own for sensible/usable lowering
    and running lots of camber on a daily road car will wear the inner edge of the tyre's rapidly
    different if its belting round a track were you need ultimate grip

  10. #30
    Guest Tanuki's Avatar
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    Right I'm thinking of not patching up the oversized hole in the bottom mount and experimenting with a tab washer first. Thoughts?
    More importantly, how the hell do I adjust these things if they are wound all the way down like this??

  11. #31
    I <3 BBS LM Actual_Ben_Taylor's Avatar
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    Just nip the bolts up FT and it'll be fine

  12. #32
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    Al, are you asking how to raise the ride height ?
    If so, just spin the lower assembly on the thread until it comes down the strut body then wind the lower of the two locking washers down to meet the lower assembly and, when you've settled on a height, lock the washer up against the lower assembly. Only the top locking washer should be up against the spring.

  13. #33
    Guest Tanuki's Avatar
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    Yep, all done. I was just being a pansy and couldn't get it loose. Now to decide on the ride height... Know of a good base setting all round?
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny Wilkinson View Post
    Al, are you asking how to raise the ride height ?
    If so, just spin the lower assembly on the thread until it comes down the strut body then wind the lower of the two locking washers down to meet the lower assembly and, when you've settled on a height, lock the washer up against the lower assembly. Only the top locking washer should be up against the spring.

  14. #34
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    For preloaded 5mm as stated in my thread. For ride height, set them to 30mm shorter than the standard shocks and that should give you a small drop and you can go from there. How low it will sit will depend on the static sag which depends on the spring rate.

  15. #35
    Guest Tanuki's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny Wilkinson View Post
    For preloaded 5mm as stated in my thread. For ride height, set them to 30mm shorter than the standard shocks and that should give you a small drop and you can go from there. How low it will sit will depend on the static sag which depends on the spring rate.
    Thanks again Jonny, I have taken notes off your thread/guide and will apply them to the install when I do it next week.

  16. #36
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    Any progress, Al ?

  17. #37
    Guest Tanuki's Avatar
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    On it today mate. Will keep you posted.
    Btw should I apply copper grease to ensure the thread on main body doesn't seize?

  18. #38
    Guest zeppelin101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tanuki View Post
    On it today mate. Will keep you posted.
    Btw should I apply copper grease to ensure the thread on main body doesn't seize?
    Doesn't work that well in my experience, road dirt just sticks to the grease and clogs the thread up anyway. Better off trying to devise a cover for the thread.

  19. #39
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    I wouldn't use coppergrease as it makes a mess.

    I use Scottoiler FS 365 Corrosion Protector Spray. When I give the suspension/wheelarches a proper clean, it comes off with the dirt and I spray some more on.

  20. #40
    Guest Tanuki's Avatar
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    Fronts all done. Ended up attacking the rust in the arches with my new toy http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B...ilpage_o02_s01

    So it took longer than expected. Rears tomorrow!

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