Haha, yea I wasn't planning on keeping it that way! I would never make it over the speed bumps on my estate!
The speedbumps on my estate (or huge brick covered table tops) have been a pain for me and lowered cars for the last 18 years
I used to have to measure on the worst one a 5mm gap between chassis rail and said motocross jump
I gave up on the super slammed look as rolling over them at less than 5 mph gets boring very fast
I think this quite fitting though https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...26d8597bad3d08
Yea, I hear you Andy. Actually the ones at work are worst, I feel like a chump crunching over them in the morning and I don't even have the coilies on yet...I'm concerned I might 'beach' myself!
Re the oversize hole in the bracket, would these camber bolts do the trick? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eibach-Fro...-/270611882757
The rear has eccentric camber bolts anyway but they only work for moderate lowering (like 25mm drop) before they run out of adjustment. For more you really need adjustable arms.
EDIT: Just clicked the link and saw they are front camber bolts.
Last edited by Jonny Wilkinson; 14-10-2014 at 15:32.
I don't think them camber adjust bolts will really help you there mate as the upper bracket hole is the sort of issue
If in theory you can't go super lows due to speed bumps at work , you won't really need any more camber adjust
as the top mount offers a fair bit of adjustment on its own for sensible/usable lowering
and running lots of camber on a daily road car will wear the inner edge of the tyre's rapidly
different if its belting round a track were you need ultimate grip
Right I'm thinking of not patching up the oversized hole in the bottom mount and experimenting with a tab washer first. Thoughts?
More importantly, how the hell do I adjust these things if they are wound all the way down like this??
Just nip the bolts up FT and it'll be fine
Al, are you asking how to raise the ride height ?
If so, just spin the lower assembly on the thread until it comes down the strut body then wind the lower of the two locking washers down to meet the lower assembly and, when you've settled on a height, lock the washer up against the lower assembly. Only the top locking washer should be up against the spring.
For preloaded 5mm as stated in my thread. For ride height, set them to 30mm shorter than the standard shocks and that should give you a small drop and you can go from there. How low it will sit will depend on the static sag which depends on the spring rate.
Any progress, Al ?
On it today mate. Will keep you posted.
Btw should I apply copper grease to ensure the thread on main body doesn't seize?
I wouldn't use coppergrease as it makes a mess.
I use Scottoiler FS 365 Corrosion Protector Spray. When I give the suspension/wheelarches a proper clean, it comes off with the dirt and I spray some more on.
Fronts all done. Ended up attacking the rust in the arches with my new toy http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B...ilpage_o02_s01
So it took longer than expected. Rears tomorrow!