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Thread: full engine rebuild crank pulley help!

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    full engine rebuild crank pulley help!

    Just done a full engine rebuild the only thing i didn't replace was hydraulic lifter (now i wish i did) pitty there now £50 per lifter,amyway had a few teathing problems,one when the engine comes up to temp i get a blueish smoke coming from exhaust manifold(brand new gaskets all round) it stinks,but no blue smoke from exhaust,secondly when it was idleing the engine sounded fine even with revs up to 3000rpm it was good,a little knocking and ticking from lifters on overdrive but nothing to worry about,anyway finally got it off axle stands took it 100 metres up the road and bk again,when i first put my foot on the throttle nothing happened revs didnt go up it was like the ecu couldnt figure out what to do,it was on axle stands for 4 months,then it suddly picked up,then i notice it was blowing you could hear it farting away under load only,but i have a big 4 branch exhaust so its hard to tell at idle,also the power steering was making a hell of a whine,then come the biggie,i notice the crank pully is warped and i thought i could hear a wrattle coming from the top end of the block essc side,the belts did slip a bit aswell,would a warped crank pulley do any damage? I think there also know as a harmonic balancer,also i got ride of my air con so really i only need a pulley with 2 sections,or just a good standard one,anyone got one, i have seen some lightened alloy ones for sale on wait for it (ebay) one company in england does a full pulley set for £128 and a comp in china (i know) does a lighten alloy crank pulley for £68. But i dont trust there workmenship something like this needs to be machine perfectly. Any help would be great. Thanks

    Sir_s13

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    How do you know it's warped? Have you checked that the bolt is tight first?

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    Guest R3K1355's Avatar
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    **** me use some punchtuation and paragraphs - thats really hard to read!!!

    Even so:

    You can refurbish the lifters, there is a guide very good on here to show you how.
    What manifold gasket did you use, was it genuine Nissan??

    The crank pulley often has a little wobble to it when you look straight down and it's running.
    Don't buy cheap pulleys from eBay

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    Lifters have been refurbished, right down to the little ball and spring.
    As for the gaskets they came in a BSA head gasket kit.
    And the crank pulley it has a clear wobble enough to shake the engine.
    I will however double check the crank bolt.
    Anyone know where I can get a new lightened decent crank pulley.

    HOWS THAT FOR PUNCTUATION.

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    Guest R3K1355's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sir_s13 View Post
    HOWS THAT FOR PUNCTUATION.
    Excellent

    I've not heard of the BSA kit, but if your gaskets look like the ones below then they're crap and only fit for the bin:



    As for the pulley, there's an OEM one on RHD Japan for under a ton (+shipping, taxes, etc)
    Alternatively you're looking at an arftermarket one with the harmonic balancer bit - like the Powerbond unit.

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    Sorry meant BGA kit.
    Yep thats the gaskets, but thinking back now they didn't line up perfectly.
    I'm gonna have to take it back off and double check. One last thing with those gaskets in the pic you notice that there all the same shape right, and with the gaskets that I got that look the same the shiny side was rounded (the side you see in the pic) and the matt side was flat.
    But when you go to put them on you have to flip to of them to match up with to of the exhaust ports.
    So what your left with is 2 of the gaskets facing shiny side towards the exhaust manifold and 2 gaskets facing matt side towards the exhaust manifold. Seems a bit weird.

    Ill check out that crank pulley cheeres.

    Sir_s13

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    an easy way to check for exhaust blow is to either have a feel around the joins with your hand (when the engine has been started from cold) or pour water on where you think its leaking from and see if the note changes.

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    Cheers ill try that.

    I checked out the ome crank pulley on the RHD JAPAN web site, what do the mean by non-hicas?
    Also are they shipping from japan, if so am i going to get stuck with a surprise bill from HM REVENUE AND CUSTOMS,
    As on there site the advertise for around 16,000 yen, not sure how much that is in kings money but anything over I think £30 is tax by customs.
    Or is that included in there shipping costs?

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    Unfortunately anything over that threshold is liable for customs charges, so budget an extra 20% so you expect it. RHDJapan are a decent company though, I've ordered a fair amount off them in the last few months

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    You could get a good used pulley from a uk breaker like drift bits and the like,or should be someone on here with a good pulley
    instead of waiting for the slow boat from japan to arrive so to speak
    they are very brittle and chunks will break off when they are removed without using a proper puller,
    even then they can still break chunks off,
    they are a hefty chunk of metal though and it will take some doing to bend it around the crank bolt area
    the outer collar with the three drive sections possibly has become un-bonded from the rubber and/or its moved during removal possibly
    and thats the part that you can see wobbling?
    or the crank pulley bolt and pulley is loose as mentioned before

    I think only the cheapy china ebay crank pulley is all that available for the CA these days
    and mixed opinions on running them as the stock pulley is a Harmonic damper to reduce crank vibrations(or resonance) at certain rpms
    some say it will wreck the engine (all engines not just CA's) due to the vibrations destroying main bearings + crank journals
    then some have done 100's of thousands of miles on them with no ill effects,more jump on the 'its engine cancer' band wagon tbh

    You will get a far better result from a lightened flywheel than the pulley will offer
    you can swap the three ancillary pulleys with no ill effects to the engine

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    Cheers for help,

    Mine does have a few chunks taken out of the outer collars b4 I owned it.
    I was kinda hoping that it wouldn't make that much of a difference.
    Not to sure of what you mean by seperating from rubber as its one solid object?
    Just thought of something though,behind the bottom sprocket on crank (infront of oil pump)
    Is a little metal plate thats meant to stop cam belt from slipping off of that sprocket towards oil pump,anyway that moves around abit.
    Its hard to get it over the larger shaft of the crank but spins freely when you push it bk to its position infront of oil pump.
    Was worried that it might start taking chunks out of cam belt.

    Also when I got the bottom end seal kit from apex parts there was two strips of foam with one sticky side on both strips, the strips are about 10mm wide 15mm deep and one is about 10cm long and the others a bit longer, can figure out what the hell there for,there not to hold that plate steady are they lol.

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    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    That plate should be tightly compressed when the crank pulley is fitted and bolts tight,
    the cambelt drive is a proper tight fit on the crank so it should stay in place if you take the crank pulley off
    that cam belt drive gear should be further on the crank nose to compress that plate,
    and it means the crank pulley is currently locating on a very small bit of woodruft key

    I guess you have had the crank pulley and bolt done up tight,then removed it again in them pictures?
    Was that cambelt drive removed from the crank during the rebuild or is that were it was when engine was stripped down?
    If it wont go further onto the crank (hefty hammer and a drift/bash bar) it may have a woodruft key problem

    And on the back of the crank pulley you can see a thin rubber section separating the center from the outer shell and the 3 belt drives

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    Guest R3K1355's Avatar
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    Also go out and buy Genuine Nissan exhaust gaskets (from a Nissan garage) because the ones you have are crap.

    (Don't buy from eBay, because I saw some cheeky **** advertising shit gaskets and Genuine )

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    Thanks dude that could have been an expensive **** up.

    As for the last comment, I didn't get them off of ebay, they were in a BGA head gasket kit from APD.

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    Guest R3K1355's Avatar
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    They're still cheap gaskets tho so they need to go.

    I don't know who BGA or APD are either

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    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    fingers crossed the cambelt drive moves on the crank nose and that plate is no longer rattling
    may be check the crank pulley groove for the woodruft key is not worn at the area where the woodruft key locates
    as that could allow the pulley to bolt on out of perfect alignment and screw up setting the ignition timing bang on
    also check the woodruft key itself for signs of wear,

    I've reused the OE manifold gaskets about 4/5 times now just with a thin smear of silcone sealer,work fine for me
    BGA are a large pattern gasket company,and on a stock engine/no power mods will be ok I guess
    they will probably separate if unbolted (half sticks to the head and the other outer layer sticks to the manifold)

    I wouldn't worry about them unless they start to blow tbh
    Last edited by ANDY black s13; 03-09-2014 at 14:46. Reason: added more ramblings coz Iz bored init

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    When I took off crank pulley the crank cog was tight up against that plate,maybe it moved back and left a gap between crank cog and crank pulley.
    Maybe thats why I was getting wobble.

    Im going to upload some pic of cambelt tension and timing position, a bit confused as when I set belt white marks lined up with timing mark on cogs and with marks on oil pump and back cam plate.

    But now the white marks on belt are two cogs over but the marks on the cogs still line up with marks on engine, the only thing I can think of is theres an odd amount of teeth on cogs making multiple positions of cog turns.

    If it had slipped the marks on the cogs wouldnt line up with engine marks surly.

    Is this to tight or ok or two loose?

    I only pushed tensioner towards the belt slightly.

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