Diagnosing a cracked block withoput stripping it down?

[sparky_s13]

Hi guys I will start with a bit of background info

I replaced my engine with a second hand fully forged engine with a 2.2 Brian Crower stroker kit.

Fitted the engine and it run sweet until we added coolant to the system, then cylinder 1 was filling with coolant.

I immediately stripped the head off (Rushing as I was taking the car to Nurburgring the following weekend) and had the head skimmed, pressure tested and brand new Tomei head gasket and bolts, I didn't check the block for any cracks due to the rush but didn't see anything obvious, also didn't check the block for flatness again for the same reason.

I put it all back together and it was exactly the same.

Now I can only think its block issue OR POSSIBLY something to do with the inlet manifold/gasket not sealing around the coolant waterway that's under cylinder 1 inlet ports.

But I made sure I cleaned both surfaces and the gasket was brand new when first putting the engine back together although the first time I used sealant around the water way as I wasn't sure if it would leak, not sure if this would of effected the gasket when it was refitted but its worth mentioning.

I REALLY want to avoid stripping the engine back down until I know its 100% the block cracked or warped so whats peoples opinions on what tests I can perform on it to help my diagnosis.

I want to avoid running it (been sat with oil in possibly mixed with coolant now for a few months) so really don't want to run it to compression test it unless I really have to.

Would a leak down test show anything in this situation?

I have a bore scope I can use to check the bore but may be unlikely to show any issues depending whats wrong but its probably the first thing I will check.

Any other static checks I could do?

Any help appreciated

Thanks Lewis

[Jon]

Errr. Everyone else has gone quiet, and I'm not sure what to suggest myself. I'm suddenly realising that I don't know whether the SR has bores in a block, or dry or wet liners.

Fitted the engine and it run sweet until we added coolant to the system,

This puzzles me just now. Do you mean it ran fine with water, and problems began when anti-freeze was added, or something else ?

[hooky]

The SR does indeed have wet liners cast in a closed deck.

They can and do crack, mainly if the engine has been overheating and had a lot of torque running through it!

The crack appears about 3mm below the top of the cylinder where the liner meets the deck (where the cast iron liner meets the aluminium deck)

Unfortunately the only real way to diagnose/prove is to strip it down, as a borescope usually wont see it as its to high in the cylinder.

The exact same thing happened to mine, on cylinder 1, exhaust valve side. Eventually it causes a hot spot and start to melt things!

like this;

[-ghost-]

Have to you not spoken to who you brought it from?

[sparky_s13]

I was waiting for someone to mention that, bit of an awkward one as the engine came as a spare with the car when my Dad swapped his Evo for it (I bought the car and engine off him) so the guy who sold the car/engine had also bought the engine second hand from someone else so not a lot I can do in that respect.

Thanks for the feedback hooky its looking likely that I have to bite the bullet and reblock the engine....

[sparky_s13]

Somebody else has mentioned a good point about coolant line for throttle body being mixed up with a inlet vacuum, does anyone have a diagram for these?

I have the s14 workshop manual but theres no detail on this.

Worth checking but im sure its right.

[Mark]

If that was the case then all the bores would have coolant in.

Take the inlet manifolds off each side and check the ports for coolant, if there is any then there is a crack in the port. Otherwise its head off

[sparky_s13]

If that was the case then all the bores would have coolant in.

Take the inlet manifolds off each side and check the ports for coolant, if there is any then there is a crack in the port. Otherwise its head off

Thats what I thought, pretty sure its definitely only number 1 filling and it fills pretty bad

[Actual_Ben_Taylor]

As you're already running a stroker setup I'd probably drop a set of liners in the original block if that turns out to be the issue.

[sparky_s13]

I was just going to get my spare block rebored for the 86.5mm pistons and all the machine work and just rebuild it then

But that's worst case scenario, need to find the actual problem first.

[sparky_s13]

So yea found the problem....

[Actual_Ben_Taylor]

I've seen worse...



I'd definitely think about a Darton / HKS liner setup when you put it back together.

[sparky_s13]

LOL

Well I am aiming for around 450hp, are stock liners no good for that kind of power?

[Actual_Ben_Taylor]

For me personally that's liner territory.

[Dan@DB-Power]

While you have it apart just change the liners, better do it right once than wrong twice.

[sparky_s13]

I'll look into it

Thanks

[sparky_s13]

For the record my stock SR20 was running over 420hp

Or does boring for the bigger pistons weaken the liner?