Has someone hacked the loom ? If not, your simplest solution is probs to ask for one from someone that's breaking a car
Has someone hacked the loom ? If not, your simplest solution is probs to ask for one from someone that's breaking a car
I honestly don't know mate I think they removed it because of the front mount intercooler kit but I ain't 100% on that
Once you get the outer wing off, get some pics up of the wiring that is clipped to the inner wing.
very nice, gonna keep following this one
just out of curiosity whats the worst case scenario with this engine new rings and a rebore? or if it is the valves how much to recon the head, the cost I can imagine will be a lot, at what point do I draw the line for an engine swap?
if I was going to go down this route then sr20 would be the easiest im guessing, lets say a sr20 red top, if im gonna do it might as well do it right hahaa. now are engine mounts the same and will the ca18 box fit the red top? then its the wiring ive read somewhere its just a few pins to swap, im guessing the ecu plug fitment is the same and I would need the sr20 ecu
Sticking an SR in seems to be a craze at the moment. They're no better an engine than a CA just more work to fitHaving said that, its not an undocumented path to tread. They are a few on here who can help you if you get stuck too.
Why not get the engine to pieces, if its completely buggered look around for another CA ? Someone took a whole set of 51 valves off Matt the other day for 25 quid. Its unlikely you'll need all of them doing. If it needs a rebore, I've got a set of 0.5 oversize pistons with conrods that you can have for 50 quid. If you are doing the work yourself, it doesn't have to cost a fortune. Could just need a gasket and a light skim and a new water pump.
Yeah there does seem to be a Sr craze, the only reason I was just thinking it was because I seen one for sale on here and I thought been as red tops are rarer it normally means they tend to be for looked after. But all tend to be ragged the same for drifting hahaa. What pistons are they then that you have? I'm guessing your a ca guy then, I'm having major issues getting exhaust manifold off. Eg, cramp in my hand, drop forging spanners with my face and coolant dripping in my hair and running into my eyes xD so I'm having a break till my next day off work on Wednesday hahaa
My car still have a CA in it but its not broken. If it did break I'd fix it rather than put an SR in.
I prefer the way a CA sounds and drives but I'm not an SR hater. I had a 14a for 3.5 years and it was lovely.
I just don't see the point in taking the pain of an engine conversion for something that is no better. I wouldn't recommend anyone to swap out an SR from a JDM car and put a CA in
Have you actually looked for a CA engine ?
The reality is you are looking at a rebuild. Question is, do you rebuild what you have or replace it and rebuild the replacement at some point (unless you get lucky and buy a mint engine that lasts longer than your 200 ownership) ?
What costs more to rebuild ? A CA or an SR ?
Not a clue which would cost more mate, this engine was swapped in to replace the previous one and the guy I got it off swapped it in and couldn't get it running but was told it was good, I guess not though hahaa. I need to get that head off asap, I've looked for a ca engine and i can get them from £450 - 800 and a fully reconditioned head for £400
I had a fully reconditioned head for sale last year and in the thread I posted, it was valued at around 100. I gave it away to a mate in the endOriginally Posted by soggysock
I wouldn't pay more than 450 for a low mileage engine that could be heard running and that came with a service history. 300-400 is more normal and, as I say, you should only need to do an engine swap if yours is fubared and you don't have to start with a full engine, just one that has a solid block.
Rob192 has a rebuilt one and he's a good lad. He's asking 500 but sure you could bargain him down a bit.
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.p...v-ECU-amp-more
Andrew Wretham has a CA18DET Bare Block (Decked, Rebored, Clean & Painted) up for 100.
Eric has an untested engine that could make a good start point for a rebuild. He wants 200 but again, try haggling.
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.p...my-s13-project
Took me just 15 mins rooting round this forum to find those. Still haven't looked elsewhere for scrappers and there is always the option to buy a car, rob the engine, whip off the good parts and crush the shell. There are a couple of rotten shitters with running engines that can be had for around 300-400 and with a bit of effort, you could get a free engine, 500 quids worth of bits and 150 off the scrapman for the shell that could fund a sensible rebuild.
Just saying that there are alternative ways to do it.
Yeah I was thinking of just getting rob192's engine and swapping it in and rebuilding mine later with forged internals and stage 3 it. That's where I also seen the sr20 red top on this forum for £800 while I was looking for other parts. The only thing holding me back from swapping any engine is getting the old out and the new one in been as I don't have an engine crane and then it's also collect ting the thing
A short engine will go in the passenger seat space of an S13 (or almost any car) if you take the seat out
Engine cranes can be hired for the weekend.
Engine stands can be bought for £50 if you search a bit or maybe borrowed from someone local.
Most of these are problems you'll have whether you rebuild, swap for a CA or swap for an SR.
As above an engine stand is well worth buying. If it was me I'd rebuild your own engine, that way you know it's done right. If you were to buy an SR. You won't know what the condition of it is.
yeah well now ive gotten this far just swapping it to sr would be pointless because I would have to change my mishimoto rad and that. I wanted it on the road by October and had a drift day planned for November :'( just ordered complete genuine head gasket setn gates racing timing belt and little things like injector seals, dished steering wheel and quick release, head will be off Wednesday to assess damage and where to go from there. picking up some standard suspension from swad I think it is and fan cover will be sent out too me. if the engine is still in parts come November and my bonus comes through I might throw in some forged pistons and rods. if not cheap block and forge that and swap over at a later date, couldn't hurt having a spare half engine I guess
Right I've took the plunge and sourced a new engine from Rob192 going to pick up Sunday. Woop woop get the old one out by means of a tractor and then drop the new one in then rebuild the old one in my spare time. The new engine is still ca so might set me back on track when I cash all 5 of my lue days in at work all in one go :P
Nothing wrong with a good CA. The recent surge in drift premadonna's over the past few years as meant you're just as likely to detonate an SR as you are a CA. JayTee on here still has a good CA in his and that's been well maintained and is cracking on.
Glad you've stuck with it. Look after it and it'll look after you.
Good news.
Unless you are looking at upwards of 320 brake, I wouldn't bother to forge the internals. They're pretty solid as it is and some folks have run them to 400 brake on standard internals (although admittedly on the basis that they would just fix it when it went boom). Plenty of folks happily running 320 for a decent while.
Yeah oh right. Because I was gonna forge my old one keep it as a spare, then put it in when I go stage 3
I'm going stage 3+ on standard internals. Aiming for a solid 300/300 which should be enough for a road car through standard 195/60R15s
Right I have been and collected the engine from Rob, totally an amazing guyengine looks nice and now it's time to get it in there. So I've unplugged everything on the engine other than injectors, I've not unbolted the engine and gearbox mounts yet. There is one wire that runs along the top of the gearbox there I cannot see where it goes how do I disconnect it. Because I'm working on the ground and I've got the front so high and the back is lowered I cannot get down to unbolt the prop shaft will it just pull out of the gearbox and spill it's oil if I do it this way.
Had a good look under the car as well yesterday the sills need doing and the back arches some tool when jacking it up on the sill bent it in so then they jacked it up on the passenger floor and then shoved that in so easiest way to get pushed back out hammer and wood jobbie I'm guessing. And to top it off on the way back I got told by a friend that someone was looking to sell his rolling shell when he has finished tubbing his arches. He has done all the work himself sills are freshly done, arches are all tubbed. Turret tops are all done he never said a price but how much would you think it would be for the shell at a best guess
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