What upgardes are needed for 280-300bhp CA18det engine?

[willlburrr]

Hi just looking for advie on what bits will actually be required for my S13, off the road at the moment with low compression so am just getting the bits together for a rebuild. As it stands it has a T28 turbo on a high flow exhaust manifold, apex FMIC, uprated fuel pump, induction kit, electronic boost controller and stage 2 h-dev chip, was like this when I brought it and was estimated around 240bhp, think tahat was a little optimistic but it was rapid... For the rebuild am looking at heavy duty bearings all through, new rings (hoping the bores are ok) oil pump, 1.6 metal head gasket and have ordered a Nistune ecu and software package(know there are mixed feeling about these but I like to tinker). Have been looking at getting a bigger throttle body and custom turbo to exhuast elbow but think probably for the power I'm after this is probably unnecessary?? Will the stock injectors and MAF be ok, also unlikely that I will splash out but what are the benefits of the stroker kits besides forged pistons... And importantly have I missed anything??

[Neelie]

Injectors, coilpacks and ecu will see you close enough to 300bhp. Maybe fpr too.
The internals would cope with 300bhp for a while alright but a rebuild would be ideal.
My last one ran 250 on stock turbo and internals for ages ha

[Dastardly]

I think you'll need bigger injectors and a Z32 AFM.

[-ghost-]

A sr20

[cleanhands]

Link to what modifications Horsham developments recommend for that power;

http://www.h-dev.co.uk/product_info....oducts_id=5031

Don't need bigger throttle body or fpr, standard are fine. If you're going Nistune maybe upgrade to 555 injectors. Bigger turbo elbow is good.

[Jonny Wilkinson]

You need Stage 3 kit as a minimum. That's 444 injectors, a Z32 AFM and an HD Stage3 chip.

If you are going with Nistune anyway, get 550s or 740s rather than 444s as that will give you more headroom if you decide you want to go faster in the future.

Coilpacks will work ok but I'd avoid the thicker MHG as that will make it (even) worse off boost. Use a genuine Nissan head gasket and upgrade your turbo to a GT2560R to get it feeling faster

NGK BCPR7ES plugs would be a good move if you are running the standard 6 grade plugs atm.

@ghost - feck off back to TechS14 with yer SR20

[gaswizards]

@ghost - feck off back to TechS14 with yer SR20

Lmao!

[Maff_1991]

I have some brand new Nismo 550 injectors for sale for a CA


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[willlburrr]

Yeah def going for the rebuild as got low compression on 3 cylinder caused I think by a water pump incident last year, cars off the road now as was getting slower and slower by the mile.... Yeah having looked around see the standard maf and injectors should be OK but thought it may be better to allow some wiggle room as it were. How much for the nismo injectors and where can I get a z32 maf, guessing they're fairly scarce as it was a rare car anyway and they are all fitted to 200s now!

Excuse my ignorance but whats fpr stand for? Ah you reckon the standard Headgasket is good for the power, yeah didn't really wanna drop the compression ratio but thought that was a must for the increase in boost... But I still wan't some sensible drivability. Can't see me wanting to hit over 300, sure I won't get bored of that power for at least a month....

Been running Iriduim 7s I think as a plug, also any idea of cost of getting the gearbox looked at got some fairly beaten synchros on the go...

[willlburrr]

Oh yeah whats the GT2560R turbo off? That bigger or smaller than the T28 or just got roller bearings?

[Maff_1991]

Nismos are up for £250 posted, I also have a gt28r turbo for £350, z32s you can get hold of there's a lot of second hand ones floating around on here and eBay or you can buy them brand new but they aren't cheap, a standard headgasket should be fine and I also have a brand new Nissan one too, buy the injectors I have and I'll throw it in for £10 extra I was running 1.2 bar boost on my stage 3 car and it pulled like a train, only reason I'm selling all my stage 3 upgrades is because I took the car off the road for a massive build


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[Jonny Wilkinson]

Will, GT2560R is the proper name for a GT28R and is an aftermarket turbo made by Garrett. Its very similar to the T28R fitted to most S15s which is a rollerbearing turbo with the same size housings etc. as a journal-bearing T28 as fitted to the S14/s14a.

Z32 AFMs are fairly readily available (expect to pay around £80 to £120) but make sure it is a genuine one with the proper code/plate. There are some dodgy copies on ebay that send out duff signals to the ECU.

I know Matt (maff_1991). He's a good bloke and £250 posted for a set of brand new 550s is a good price, especially if you go with the head gasket for a tenner I paid £275 for my HKS 555s and I thought they were a bargain

Ask someone in the SW section for a recommendation regarding the gearbox rebuild. You might be cheaper to buy another (known good) box.

[Neelie]

@ghost - feck off back to TechS14 with yer SR20

THIS lol...

FPR = fuel pressure regulator btw.

imo T28R is a bit overkill for 300bhp... yeah its livelier but a T28 will see that power no problem and is cheaper (depending on the budget ya got obviously...) and also gearbox, if you can source a known good box it'd be much much cheaper than rebuilding your one. on the other hand if you rebuild, you wont have any guess work to do and you can fully rely on the box. so really its down to budget again...

[arry]

Stick to a good 280 bhp with a good amount of torque. The extra little bit isn't worth the extra money.

Definitely do 444's and z32 as it does allow for that extra torque imo. Stage 2 cars feel strained. Stage 3 feels punchy compared

[nas241]

THIS lol...

FPR = fuel pressure regulator btw.

imo T28R is a bit overkill for 300bhp... yeah its livelier but a T28 will see that power no problem and is cheaper (depending on the budget ya got obviously...) and also gearbox, if you can source a known good box it'd be much much cheaper than rebuilding your one. on the other hand if you rebuild, you wont have any guess work to do and you can fully rely on the box. so really its down to budget again...

I've been keeping an eye on this thread as I am similarly deciding on something similar GT2560R/GT28R. To me coming from a smoky T25G, a standard journal bearing T28 has me wondering about the increased lag and any decrease in responsiveness. This is the fundamental reason as to why I'm looking for b/b equivalent.

Out of interest: anybody with a T28R / GT2560R, how much approximately would a CA18 with 1 Bar /14.5 psi boost be expected to achieve (engine power not at the wheels)?


Also in reference to your first post about your car running 250, was that a simple HD Stage 1 setup?

[Jonny Wilkinson]

Also in reference to your first post about your car running 250, was that a simple HD Stage 1 setup?

250 with a T25 is pretty optimistic as the T25 cannot flow enough air to make those figures. 240 is about the max.

Mine was set up with full Stage 1 and a big FMIC with the MBC set to 16 psi (1.1 bar) and that enabled 245 lbft of torque at 4,750 rpm and 239 bhp at the top end. The turbo could only shift enough air to make 9 psi at the top end hence only 240 brake and not limited by the MBC.

You can see it here (pink line) in the dyno results...

[willlburrr]

Sorry have been out of the loop for so long. Had a month working abroad and a holiday alongside the summer times.... Finally got the engine stripped and all the internals lookpretty amazing considering its close to 140 000 miles on the clock though I think it may have been rebuilt previously. Only problems found have been a strange wear on some of the piston rings where they have flattened on the inside edge where they where contacted with the piston, very wierd have never seen wear like that before but on the plus side the bores are perfect. Only other thing is the flywheel is very blued and has cracks all over the clutch plate surface so figure it has been run in the past with a ****ed clutch for a while, so think gonna have to replace the flywheel Though have found a lightened flywheel and clutch package rated up to 300bhp from Techniclutch for around the 400quid mark which seems pretty good, anyone know anything about these?

Had the Nistune Ecu arrive just before I pulled the engine out so ran it breifly to make sure it was working and loggable on the lappy, was all good but does anyone have any experience with playing with these. Haven't studied all the literature yet but I can change the basic map depending on the mod levels with one from them?!?

Starting the ordering of all my bits this week but the budget has taken a slight battering now with the flywheel needing replacement. Are those Nismo injectors and HeadGasket still up for grabs? Have a adjustable fuel pressure regulator that came with the vehicle in amongst spares but with the uprated fuel pump and nistune surely just need to increase the injectors fuel cycle rather than up the pressure?

One thing I noticed when pulling the Engine out was the inlet manifold has a weird shaft running through the centre of it which has a half round profile attached to an actuator obviously intended to rotate between boost and vacuum.... Any ideas what this is intended to achieve and whether it is worthwhile as it was not connected to the air feed but I previously owned an S13 and I'm sure this was not fitted to that. Assume its intended to smooth or adjust airflow into the valves but each cylinder has a different profile for each valve so for all 4 cylinders the back side of one inlet valve was covered in a build up of gummy oil and crap whilst the other was clean.

[willlburrr]

Update, stripped the engine and the bores and pistions are badly worn.. Got new oversize pistons from nissan and getting the block honed. 75 a piston so thought it wasn't worth trying aftermarket for the power I'm looking for. Managed to get a z32 maf and 444 injectors for 190 so the breathing and fuel should be sorted

[skyshack]

You have a Japanese head. The rod operates butterfly valve in one port of each cylinder. Shut for low down torque, open for higher rpm power. Just leave them open by not connecting the vac can - big one next to FPR. JDM engine doesn't have a main bearing girdle or oil cooler.

You my be OK without the girdle for 300bhp. But they also fitted it to the N/A CA18DE in the Sunny B12 coupé but not the N13 ZX hatch. They only make 129bhp so it may also be down to expected sustained high rpm.

You will need an oil cooler.

There was someone that claimed to have got 259bhp from a stage 1 at some silly ultra short turbo life level of boost - massive over speed.

Using an adjustable FPR to increase the flow means the injector void time has to be changed as the pressure holds the pintle shut a bit longer. I don't think anyone ever got it right as the FPR and stock injectors is cheap and they wouldn't pay for Nistune or a custom tune.

Rule of thumb
bhp = duty cycle x no of injectors x flow cc / 5.
85% x 4 x 370 / 5 = 251bhp.

300bhp.
300 x 5 / (4 x 0.85) = 441 cc/min
(anyone pushing more on 440 cc injectors is pushing the duty cycle)

new pressure = old pressure x (new flow/old flow)²
(28 + 14.7) x (441 / 370)² = 60.7 psi.
FPR setting = 60.7 - 14.7 = 46 psi. That is a 18 psi increase on stock.

If you aim for higher duty cycle, 95% is not too unsafe. That reduces the flow and pressure and as you have a Nistune you can play with the void time.
Flow = 300 x 5 / (4 x 0.95) = 394 cc/min
Pressure = (28 + 14.7) x (394 / 370)² = 48.4psi
FPR setting = 33.7psi. (5.7psi increase)

[R3K1355]

Techniclutch stuff is utter shite, so I really hope you didn't buy that crap