I know it might be hard but I would suggest to take it easy.
Before buying anything try to get the head off the engine. Chances are, that the bottom half will be ok. That way You can only worry about getting a new head or rebuilding Yours.
If oil/water pumps are ok than You can re-use those. No need to buy new ones.
We're heading out for the 24h race, if you do come and need bits moving I'm driving the club van
Originally Posted by TheBigShow
Thanks for the info guys...
Is it hard to open the head?
Get the cams out and inspect, make sure you recover all the broken bits. then buy RAS's when you replace the arms, also remember to get the shim's also as these could go jumping around.
So you guys say its better to not do what i was going to do ( other engine )
And better open the head to check everything?
Providing that there is no bits missing, and no major damage to the cams and you can recover all the bits, Even if you were to replace the cams it's not going to cost as much as a replacement engine, nor will it need to be.
The engine is possibly savable with the original head rebuilt with new cams,rocker arms,shims etc,
Each rocker arm 'finger' the part that pushes the valve down has a unique sized to each valve shim on the end of each valve stem and is set up from a range of thickness's sized shims to get the rocker arm level and clearance for the hydraulic lifter
the rockers breaking will send small metal pieces and the important shims most likely into the sump as head drain is at the back of the head
At high revs there is a lot of oil flowing to the head and at same time returning to the sump so any metal debris/shims will naturally end up in the sump
you will need drop the steel sheet pressed sump pan off and get the lower cast aluminum sump casting off to check properly for bits of metal from the rockers breaking and the shims if not damaged can be re used possibly
The cast aluminum part of the sump has a large wall/baffle for oil anti surge and numerous areas that will trap bits of metal/shims
If you get another cylinder head you will still need check the sump, the small steel sump drops off easy,
but will need engine lifting off its mounts a fair distance to get the cast aluminum sump part off
to prevent any future problems on this engine, the sump will need checking for debris and cleaning out before its run again imo
the shims wont make it past the gauze on the oil pick up pipe,
but the little bits of broken rocker arm will and go straight into the oil pump
I had to do all the above when just one rocker arm broke on mine thanks to a Bee-r rev limiter and no RAS fitted
Last edited by ANDY black s13; 21-05-2014 at 11:53. Reason: Removed blocky text as I was typing away like a lunatic
I thank you alot for the explication... today will someone come and we will take engine out and take the e
Head off... i think i will buy the cylinderhead only if the pistons and other things are oke...
And then engine i was going to replace with is a 2002 blacktop with 80 000 miles...
Last edited by nasredinho; 21-05-2014 at 12:17.
hi,
5 months later, and the car is finally running great...
i had some issues with turbo gasket and oil leak on the turbo lines ( you need absolutelly to upgrade to braided turbo lines )
and nistune resseting everytime the settings when i put the car off, but now everything seems great ( only it takes a lot of oil )
I went from 95 fuel to e85 ethanol,
upgraded to 550cc injectors
255lp walbro
nistune
rocker arm stoppers, rev limit to 8100 rpm
z32 afm
intercooler japspeed
american turbo 2871 .86 at 1.3 bar
etc
I don't know how much hp i'm making, but i easely reach the 250 km h ( tested in germany )
didn't have the balls to go faster, just wanted to test it ones just to know.
old engine
new engine is a blacktop from a late nissan 200sx s14
my baby lol
i thank you all for the help you guys gave me, I've put the sxoc emblime into my car!
top site and forum!
i just need now a carter pan upgrade and short shifter ( also some other things )
Last edited by nasredinho; 31-10-2014 at 17:28.
Cool a good result,car looks nice and clean
Keep a regular check on oil and coolant levels
Coolant level doesnt move at all... but i still check ot everytime.
only oil level is the nasty part... i need 700 ml oil every 400 km.. but i drive fast 50 procent of the times
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