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Thread: Arch loom mod

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by stefspec View Post
    83 or 84mm holesaw to relocate the big rubber grommet
    I was trying to measure the original holeand got 85mm... Will have to measure again to be sure which size is the correct for the grommet...

  2. #22
    Guest eurospec's Avatar
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    This is how I do mine


  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by bahis View Post
    I was trying to measure the original holeand got 85mm... Will have to measure again to be sure which size is the correct for the grommet...
    you could be correct, i've not actually measured mine myself i got the size from here

    http://www.driftworks.com/forum/othe...oom-moved.html

    also when i ordered a holesaw, starret only list a 83mm one in that range.

  4. #24
    Guest ChunkyTits's Avatar
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    Looks like i'm gonna have to have a go at this.

    I've just fitted some 9.75J XXR rims with 3mm shims to clear the coil over springs. On right lock it starts to rub pretty badly against the loom where it exits the bulkhead. I've already had the wing off and relocated the loom above the wheel arch as much as possible so that part is safe.

    Question is, if I follow that video, and remove the plug and wiring from inside to re-route it through the hole around the suspension turret, will that give enough clearance?

    Looks like you should be able to pull it pretty far away from the wheel that way. I haven't got any extra lock on the wheels and don't plan to.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospec View Post
    This is how I do mine

    I'm guessing there is a plug you can undo in order to reroute the loom?? I need to do this but don't fancy cutting and soldering everything.
    1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue

  6. #26
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    Inside the car in the drivers footwell there's a few plugs you have to undo. Need to do mine but really not looking forwards to it lol

  7. #27
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    Yes there Are several plugs in the footwell and steering wheel column.
    Take a look at the last page of my build thread for pics.
    http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.p...-project/page5

  8. #28
    Now with 400bhp....
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    Ah ok that's not too bad then
    1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chriscooke View Post
    Ah ok that's not too bad then
    As said the wires unplug from thr back if the fuse box and can all be pulled out of the hole then put back through the new hole in the side thats how I did mine, was 83mm hole saw a used too


  10. #30
    Guest ChunkyTits's Avatar
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    Interesting approach. What did you fill the existing hole with?

    Did you have to remove much from the inside before you drilled?

  11. #31
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    i didnt unplug anything, i cut the hole for the loom, cut the section out between
    the two and welded it back in. job jobbed

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by inliner_04 View Post
    I even have a step by step video for this method.

    When you do it this way, wouldn't it be fairly easy to de-pin the large plug, feed the wires through and put it back together. I want to do this but don't really want to cut the sheet metal.

  13. #33
    aka Jeffries Limitless Imports's Avatar
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    Ive done the loom out the side aswell. What did you guys use to cover the old hole over?

  14. #34
    Guest jj205mi16's Avatar
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    i welded mine up

  15. #35
    Guest liamjrhodes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChunkyTits View Post
    Interesting approach. What did you fill the existing hole with?

    Did you have to remove much from the inside before you drilled?
    The piece we cut out was welded back into the existing hole

    And no just the plastic trim and the fuse box

  16. #36
    Guest ChunkyTits's Avatar
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    Well, I've just relocated my loom.

    I decided, since I didn't have much time, to do it the same way it was done in the video. Removed the wiring from inside and re routed over the suspension turret.

    A few notes;

    - The wiring is a ballache to remove. There's two plugs behind the fuse box you need to undo, plus wiring along the steering column which all needs unclipping before you can pull it through
    - It's tight to get the wiring out the hole but it's doable, including the plastic block connector
    - Before you can pull the wiring through into the engine bay next to the headlight/fuse box, you need to undo the brake reservoir warning plug/wiring, and another plug on the inside of the suspension turret lower down. Not sure what that's for, possibly ABS.
    - You need to make the little triangle hole larger to get the block connector through in the wheel arch. I grabbed some sheet metal cutters from BnQ and just made a few cuts and bent the metal open, then once the block was through I hammered it back into place. I'll take the wheel off and give it a paint to protect it from rust at some point.
    - You don't need to remove the wing to do this.

    All in all it was a total pain in the arse but there's loads of clearance between the wiring and the wheel now, i don't think it'll make contact anymore.

  17. #37
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    if you don't relocate it to a new hole like the pics above show you WILL eventually wear through it if you intend to drift or add extra lock in future.

  18. #38
    Guest ChunkyTits's Avatar
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    Looked like there was plenty of clearance to me when I placed the wheel on full lock. I have no plans to drift it or add any extra lock so that will be fine for me.

    If I see it starting to touch the wiring i'll just cut a new hole as above. Now I know what to do it would be much quicker to pull the wiring out again. Not a difficult job when you know where the wiring goes.

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