When I got my Whiteline ARBs brand new, I coated them with a soft clear lacquer to protect against stone chips. Within 6 months, the paint under the unbroken lacquer had started to bubble. They're good kit but they're not properly treated out of the factory
Uprating the ARBs on a standard car is a good way to reduce body roll leaving the springs to do shock absorbing.
Thanks for all the input again. Loads of knowledge on this thread
Current have Tein coilovers all around but I think they are too soft. Here's my plan, Im going to change the wheels to 17 this week.
In next week or so, get all those in my shopping list
Once its all fitted and set up, I will see how it goes and decide if I would change the coilovers.
I am kind of lean to the Apex ARB Kit, looks like they have great reviews.
Apex Full anti roll bar Kit
S13/S14 Powerflex subframe mounting bushes
S13/S14/180SX Apex uprated rubber rear subframe bushes
S14 Apex bushed alignment arm set which including rear camber arms, rear toe arms, rear traction arms and front tc arms.
S13/S14 Apex solid aluminium rear diff mounting bushes
S14 Apex solid front diff mounting bushes
S14 Apex race spec adjustable lower arm - full car kit
Forgot to say, this will be the fast road track car.
Leave the coilies til last. You may want to go harder or softer after fitting the other stuff or stick with what you have.
Agreed. Too hard on the coilovers can make the car slower on some B roads etc hard coilovers are great on track but not ideal on the road IMHO, choose you're spring rates carefully
1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue
Will need loads of reading again when choosing coilovers. My ep3 has 8/6 and its so bumpy. I will leave the coilover in the end.
Sent from my SM-N900 using Tapatalk
You might want the steering rack bushes too, ie these.
Great idea, it said per rack set, do i need 2 set of those?
Sent from my SM-N900 using Tapatalk
Nope, just one set.
B
Sent from my high horse
Depending on the spring rate of the ARB, you might actually inhibit damper travel across the axle and make the ride worse.Originally Posted by Jonny Wilkinson
Given a lot of the B roads in this country are cambered and littered with craters, it does make a big difference. You're better off (in my view) getting the best damping solution you can afford and getting the geometry sorted. Body roll is a function of arm geometry more than spring stiffness.
True enough. I have Whiteline ARBs on the softest setting and Apex Limo 4/3s plus front and rear strut braces to stop chassis flex. I get next to no bodyroll, neutral steering (no understeer and only induced oversteer), great bump absorption, it soaks up long yumps without chucking you out of the seat and allows me to get 240/240 down on the ground through 195/60R15s
Due to the length of travel in the shocks, I'd struggle to drop it more than 15 to 20mm without risking arch interference but as I'm running in stealth mode, its not a problem for me.
My suspension upgrade cost me around £1,500 including alignment etc.
Thanks for all the advise!
Guess I got everything I need for shopping now:
Apex Full anti roll bar Kit
S13/S14 Powerflex subframe mounting bushes
S13/S14/180SX Apex uprated rubber rear subframe bushes
S14 Apex bushed alignment arm set which including rear camber arms, rear toe arms, rear traction arms and front tc arms.
S13/S14 Apex solid aluminium rear diff mounting bushes
S14 Apex solid front diff mounting bushes
S14 Apex race spec adjustable lower arm - full car kit
S14 Apex poly power steering rack mounts
Are you guys running on 17s or 18s?
Going for handling, get a square 17" setup.
No good reason to get 18" as long 17" clears brakes....
I'd personally avoid the race lower arms, I had drift works ones and there a pain in the ass to maintain. Re bush your stock lower arms
Mr. Sandwich, which lower arm do you recommend?
Aaron's suggesting you just stick with the stock arms and replace the bushes.
Yeah exactly what johnny said, unless your specifically after track adjustment just bush your stock arms and fit roll centre correction ball joints if your dropping it
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Thanks guys,
Updated List:
Apex Full anti roll bar Kit
S13/S14 Powerflex subframe mounting bushes
S13/S14/180SX Apex uprated rubber rear subframe bushes
S14 Apex bushed alignment arm set which including rear camber arms, rear toe arms, rear traction arms and front tc arms.
S13/S14 Apex solid aluminium rear diff mounting bushes
S14 Apex solid front diff mounting bushes
S14 Apex poly rear lower inner arm bushes
S14 Apex uprated rubber front lower arm bushes
S14 Apex poly power steering rack mounts
What are the roll centre correction ball joint use for and where can I get it?
Will you are doing subframe, you should consider subframe raisers.
These will correct you RC some when lowering the car......
feks;
http://www.partsshopmax.com/page.php?17
When you lower the car, the roll centre (the point around which the car will pivot vertically) will also be lowered as you are moving the mass of the car closer to the ground.
However, the wheels stay where they were as they were already in contact with the ground.
The problem is that the joints where the wheels connect to the car have to operate at a different angle or in a different range to their originally intended range.
For most of the joints, its simply a matter of making sure that the joints are slackened before the car is lowered onto its wheels then tightened when they are in the centre of their expected range.
The exception is the ball joints for the lower arm and the track rod ends.
Failure to correct these results in the ball joints wearing quickly and something called bump steer.
The solution is to buy a roll centre correction kit which replaces the offending parts with parts whose natural operating range is correct for a lowered 200SX.
Once fitted, the car WILL need a full 3D alignment to allow them to work.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
