I'll get a multimeter onto it this weekend. Should I be seeing a constant 12-14v when running?
I'll get a multimeter onto it this weekend. Should I be seeing a constant 12-14v when running?
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Apparently it can drop the voltage down to 9-10v when idling etc. when on throttle it should give you what power the power fc see's.
Apperntly if you just run a new earth to the pump it should give full voltage all the time.
330wheel power
Kev came up with an out the box idea... Inlet manifold gasket... gonna run water over the inlet later to see if I can hear a sooking noise.
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Probable not the best idea to run water over it water getting sucked into your engine cant be good! I think i remember reading something about using WD40.
Update
Right well I tried with the can of WD I had laying around, and the can was rubbish. Decided to go all out with the water.... poured over the inlet to head ports and then the bit in the middle.... zero difference to idle and still spluttered.
Was talking to Kev all last night about it, one thing we are wondering is where does the PFC take its water temp from? The Gauge sensor or the ECU sensor? I assumed because the commander is attached to the ECU, its the ECU one? Does anyone know for sure?
Also, he is the same as me in his thinking of a timing/fueling issue for sure.
Gonna grab my da's multimeter and get a look tomorrow night at my fuel pump.
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Yeah it uses ecu temp sensor.
330wheel power
Hmm I'm not getting any odd signals from it, it raises gradually and holds. That might be out the guess list for now.
I think I'll look into testing the CAS at the same time while I have the Multimeter
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I am gonna do this but leave the cas in situ and just turn the engine over manually to see what happens
![]()
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Right Live Update.... outside the house now...
CAS
Pin 1 and 2 jump between 0.2v and 5.12v... pretty close to the workshop manual...
AFM matches PFC. Also, car won't start with it up plugged.
Unplugging water temp sensor makes it alot worse.
Fuel pump has 3 bits... dunno whats what.
Bat voltage on PFC = 14.3v on idle
Fuel pump pins were
Black and white wire - 12.3v
Blue and red wire - 3.9
Yellow/Blue Yellow wire - 3.7v.
What do folk think of this?
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Does the voltage increase when revved?
330wheel power
OK after checking all those things the car now seems fine. I'm thinking loose wire somewhere...
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I'm still sticking to my first thoughts fuel "lack of" and possible that wiring connections to pump have a resistance build up and the voltage is dropping,
Reason i said fuel Wullie is when i went blow through with maf. I had similar symptoms before i had increased the fuel map all across the map
400whp Ca18det, Apexi Power Fc, fully fordged and ballanced bottom end with custom low comp JE pistons, pauter rods, Hks 3037s Turbo , Hks Cast Mani, hks screamer and external waste, 4" was 3.0" downpipe to 2x 2.75" to the rear ID 1000cc injectors, 255 walbro feeding bosch 044 700x300x100mm fmic, koyo type rad ,custom intake "std head, cams and inlet manifold" for now plus a few other bits, 3037s gone new tubby fund underway
Get it hard wired wullie
Even if you have to run a dodgy wire round the outside of the car just to try it
330wheel power
I was only one mand and couldnt test that LOL
I will have to read up how to do it.
On Route to the petrol station this morning it was being a little bitchy again, popped bonnet, wiggled AFM wires after filling up. All seems well..... LOL How awkward...electrical gremlins = PITA
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Apparently just running a new earth to the negative wire at the fuel pump eliminates the fuel pump speed controller.
I would do this first as it is a simple task lol
330wheel power
Which wire is this.... :S
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If your looking at the top of the cradle while leaning in the boot (+) is the first wire on top of the cradle and (-) is the 3rd one.
330wheel power
Yeah...... what?! LOL I assume you mean under the panel on top of the pump?
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Yeah lol
330wheel power
You seem to forget I'm an idiot
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