Postion wise, some has made marks at some point but they now dont look to mean much, can a CAS slip by itself?
Andy
Postion wise, some has made marks at some point but they now dont look to mean much, can a CAS slip by itself?
Andy
Nope, that points to a problem:
a) ignition timing is out as it is, heavily retarded - check it!
b) Belt is out of position
c) CAS itself is fooked
d) Camshaft splines are knackered
e) Woodruff key in end of crank is smashed to bits and the pulley has freeplay in it
car had been running 13-14psi on a standard fuel pump before i got it, its possible timing was retarded to stop det ?
Not that far retarded! If that was a healthy set up that'd be running about 5deg BTDC at best, probably closer to TDC!
Check it
shite, i have no timing gun car is off the road anyway because of turbo death
need to buy one matey, essential S13 ownership tool if you ask me.
In the meantime, I'd take the CAS off and inspect condition of splines - if they look fine, get the top cover off and check position of cambelt (as in physical condition, making sure timing marks line up) and check woodruff key by taking bottom crank pulley off.
The cam splines:
have you tried setting it to centre and see how it runs? obviously with a shagged turbo you can't
Originally Posted by jap thing
as soon as my fresh tubby is on we'll see, my stepdad who lives at the other end of the country described exactly how my car is running/ran when i told him i think someones retarded the ingition at some point so i'm convinced its been done to stop det due to a higher boost level and 133k miles old fuel pump
If the engine is all in good shape then the CAS securing bolts should be *about* central in the CAS slots. This would equate to roughly 15 deg BTDC.
*The only way to check the timing is with a timing gun - don't try to guess!!*
That has had the timing set by someone that doesn't know what they are doing.
On the wireing loom of the coil packs there is a little loop wire that you connect the timing gun to. If when you connect the timing gun you put the connector on the wrong way, that is the position the CAS ends up in
I've also got this "problem".
The CAS must be turned to the far right for the timing to be 15deg BTDC@idle. The camshafts are brand new, the CAS looks ok to me, and the locking thingy on the crank is ok. Haven't had any real problems with this, though, other than me being paranoid when something's not like it's supposed to be.
(Oh, btw, I know how to use a timing gun. )
Edit: Arry: the CAS on the pic (and mine too) are advanced, not retarded. When you turn the CAS clockwise, you advance the timing. I guess you know that, and you just made a typo..
Last edited by TG1; 11-09-2006 at 04:21.
Yeah sort of confusing, as what's actually happening is you're having to advance the CAS position to combat the CAS wear trying to retard the timing. My error!Originally Posted by TG1
Ehm, maybe Im not enough advanced, but isnt turning CAS clockwise retarding ignition timing???Originally Posted by TG1
page EF&EC 22 in service manual...
ore here
http://www.horsham-developments.co.uk/
sorry, you're wrongOriginally Posted by TG1
D'oh! Of course I am.. Was thinking a bit backwards last night, I think. I blame the clock.Originally Posted by sideways danny
set it to centre... car runs fine
well if you ignore the knackered tubby gaskets and generally knackered turbo
infact it seems more torquey off boost
it will do, as its not so retarded. Get it checked
checked it will be
Sheessh. (can we blame JezH? )Originally Posted by SX Drifting
That loop is for a PULSE TYPE TACHOMETER, the loop combines signals from all cylinders and is inductively coupled to the loom so it has a delay on it which ever way round you hook up. Look at method A at top of page EF&EC-22 of the service manual.
The only loop a timing gun should be put on is the loop on the special tool KV109D10S0. As few people outside Nissan Dealers have this device, the correct way to set timing is to put an extension on No1 plug and clip round that. As shown starting at bottom of above page.