Glad to help
Cheers
Tim
Glad to help
Cheers
Tim
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Looked through the last few pages but haven't seen an answer.
What oil would you use on a standard s14 differential?
What oil for a standard sr20 gearbox running close to 400bhp?
Thanks
1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue
Hi i also was also looking for the same as chris
Also wondering about the best grease to use for rose joints?
cheers
Hi
You need a 75w-90 for the gearbox and diff.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-673-75w-90-gear-oil.aspx
If you want to go for the best, the Millers CRX 75w-90 NT, Gulf Competition, Motul Gear 300, Fuchs Race Synchro, Red Line MT90 and Millers TRX are ideal for the gearbox. The Castrol Universal/Universal Plus/Syntrans Multivehicle, Motul Motylgear and Fuchs Gear Syn are all decent alternatives. The Fuchs Syn 5, Millers CRX, Red Line 75w-90 GL5, Motul Gear 300 and Gulf Competition are ideal for the diff. The Fuchs Sintopoid, Castrol Syntrax Longlife, Millers TRX, Motul Motylgear, Mobil SHC and Gulf Syngear are also good choices.
This is ideal for the joints
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-824-silk...ng-grease.aspx
Cheers
Tim
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Great, cheers!
Hi oilman
I have an Audi A4 1.9tdi 2004 on 142k miles : recommended 5w30 long life for it , would there be any benefit running a 10w40 with the higher milage or any other advice as its been using a fair bit more oil of late
Thanks
Hi
A 10w-40 is not suitable for it as it needs an oil that meets the VW505.01 (mainly 5w-40, non-longlife) or 507.00 (0w-30 or 5w-30, longlife).
505.01 - http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-751-vw-50501-oil.aspx
507.00 - http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-754-vw-50700-oil.aspx
If it's using a lot of oil, then I'd go for one of the 505.01 5w-40s or if it doesn't use much oil, then one of the 5w-30 or 0w-30 oils will be fine.
Mileage is no indicator of oil grade. It's only if the engine has started to burn a lot of oil, showing that it's worn, then it's time for a thicker grade. With the VW1.9PD engines, they often burn a drop of oil anyway, so unless it's using a litre every couple of thousand miles or so then it's time to use one of the 5w-40s I mentioned.
Cheers
Tim
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Awesome cheers buddy/ not really using loads maybe a litre every 5-6k I would say so I will stick to the 5w30 .
Thanks again
Hey, I need some advice on oil to buy to freshen up when my VVTi 1JZ-GTE, with R154 Gearbox Toyota Chaser when it arrives.
OEM Specs for Engine/Trans and Diff are as follows:
Engine Oil: Toyota Genuine (SAE 10W-30)
Manual Transmission Oil: 3.0 Litres – Toyota Genuine MG Gear Oil Special II (API GL-4 or GL-5 SAE 75W-90)
Differential Oil: 1.3 Litres Toyota Genuine Hypoid Gear Oil SX (API.GL-5, SAE
85W-90)
The car will be a daily doing a short commute (sub 5miles) with the odd track day.
Hi
Is it standard or modified?
Cheers
Tim
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Pretty stock at the moment Tim
Hi
I would use a 5w-40 synthetic in the engine as it will give better cold start protection and will be more suited to higher temps when drifting than the 10w-30. Also, most 10w-30 in the UK is very basic, it's mainly tractor oil.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx
Out of those, the best ones are the Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S, Millers CFS/CFS NT, Motul Sport/300V, Red Line and Gulf Competition. The Motul 8100 X-Cess, Millers XF Longlife, Fuchs GT1 XTL/Supersyn, Gulf Formula G/ULE, Shell Helix and Mobil Super 3000 are good, cheaper alternatives.
I would use a 75w-90 for the gearbox and diff.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-673-75w-90-gear-oil.aspx
If you want to go for the best, the Millers CRX 75w-90 NT, Gulf Competition, Motul Gear 300, Fuchs Race Synchro, Red Line MT90 and Millers TRX are ideal for the gearbox. The Castrol Universal/Universal Plus/Syntrans Multivehicle, Motul Motylgear and Fuchs Gear Syn are all decent alternatives. The Fuchs Syn 5, Millers CRX, Red Line 75w-90 GL5, Motul Gear 300 and Gulf Competition are ideal for the diff. The Fuchs Sintopoid, Castrol Syntrax Longlife, Millers TRX, Motul Motylgear, Mobil SHC and Gulf Syngear are also good choices.
Cheers
Tim
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Make - Nissan
Model - Silvia K's
Year - 1996 (S14)
Engine Size - 2.0
Engine Type - SR20DET
Any Mods - HKS High Cam (Step I), Rocker Arm Stopper, Engine Overhaul with Metal Head Gasket (~10,000km), Tomei Arms M7960 Turbo, HKS EVC 4 Boost Controller (~1.0bar), HPI Air Filter, Z32 Air Flow, D-Max Exhaust Manifold, Outlet Pipe, and Front Pipe, Front Mount Intercooler, Oil Cooler, Oil Catch Tank, Uras Exhaust, Nismo GT-R Injectors and Fuel Pump
Type of driving (track or just road etc) - Drift events, typically 6 or so 10min runs, plus a drive to and from the track which is roughly 2hrs each way, temps come down to perhaps slightly below freezing in the winter and 30-40C summer, on rare occasions i do drive it short distances like 6 or so km between home and work, but very rare
The oil you currently use (make and grade) - no idea... whatever was in the car when i bought it. preparing for my first oil change w/ the car
currently considering Amsoil DOMINATOR 15W50 or maybe Mobil 1 15W50 to same some money. ive been advised that i should be changing engine oil every 2-3 events. this is just what i've gathered so far, but i'd love to hear your thoughts/recommendations in agreement or otherwise.
also, any oil filter recommendations?
thank you!
Hi
I would use a really good ester based oil, like Fuchs Pro S, Millers CFS/CFS NT, Motul 300V, Red Line or Gulf Competition and then probably a 10w-50 in the winter and 15w-50 in the summer. The Amsoil and Mobil that you mention are good oils, but ester based oils are the best.
The oils that I mentioned are good for 10 solid hours of normal track use or 10000 miles on the road, so with the use it's getting from you, I would probably look at changing it every 10 events or so, if it's only on track for up to 10 minutes per event.
Cheers
Tim
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Hey Tim,
Thank you so much for getting back to me! I will look into those oils for sure.
If I were to stick with either 10 or 15W for the whole year, which would be better? I actually intend to avoid events during July and August, the hottest months of the year, but that's not to say that something might not come up. In other words, will 10W be ok in the summer or would 15W be ok in the winter? The reason I ask is I likely won't even go to 10 events in an entire year.
Just want to verify because you mention 10 solid hours or 10 events, but you also say 10 minutes per event and it is actually about an hour of track time per event (6 runs at 10min each).
Thanks again!
Last edited by sxocreader; 05-07-2016 at 22:34.
Ah, okay, I'd probably change it every 5 or so events with that much use.
Cheers
Tim
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Thanks again for getting back to me! I am trying to learn as much as I can and so want to make sure I fully understand. You originally stated that any of the oils you recommended should be able to last 10 solid hours of normal track use which would indeed equate to 10 events, but you are now recommending 5 events instead of 10. Is this because of the length of time that the oil would remain in the car before being changed, would in my case might end up being a full year? Or perhaps because I would not want to switch between a 10W and 15W? or a combination of both or other factors?
Also, I am most familiar with Amsoil products and so I was wondering if you might help me to better understand what makes your recommendations better than Amsoil? What type of synthetic is Amsoil? How many events might I be able to get out of their oil?
Hi
Drift use is harder on the oil than normal track use as it's basically very high revs for a relatively short period of time and because of the angle the car is at , there is less airflow (cooling) over the engine compared to a non-drift car, so the oil has a horrible time. Combining the road use with the track time would probably mean that the oil should be changed every 5 events (roughly). If it was just 10 minutes per event, 10 events and the travelling too and fro might be overkill slightly, but the time that the oil is in the car would lead to some degredation of the additives in the oil due to oxidisation.
Amsoil are really good oils. They are well made PAO synthetics (so proper, lab made synthetic oil) rather than a lot of synthetic oils that are made from mineral oil. The oils I suggested are ester based and they have a few advantages over normal synthetic oils.
1) They cling to metal surfaces, so the interior of your engine is coated with oil at all times, meaning instant cold start protection.
2) They reduce friction further than normal oils, leading to improved protection.
3) Esters make the oil more stable, making ester based oils ideal for hard use.
4) Due to the reduced friction, engines often run smoother and quieter.
Amsoil are very well proven oils though and if you can get them at a reasonable price (they didn't sell well in the UK as they were very expensive), they are a good option to use.
Cheers
Tim
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Make - Nissan
Model - Silvia Q's
Year - 1992 (PS13)
Engine Size - 2.0
Engine Type - SR20DE
Kms- 160k
Any Mods - Pretty standard, tubular manifold, apexi air intake. Will have tomei cams and ecu soon.
Driving - Daily with some street drifting (on closed roads of course)
Not fussed on price, I will run the best oil I can.
Hi
I would use a really good 5w-40 synthetic.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx
Out of those, the best ones are the Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S, Millers CFS/CFS NT, Motul Sport/300V, Red Line and Gulf Competition.
Cheers
Tim
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